Building Indestructible Spliced CV Axles 

@pkf4124 Thanks. They've held up great for me, I still drive the car daily.

Thanks! I wrapped the boots to prevent any stray sparks from burning through them.

Yeah I put a lot of thought and research into them. So far they seem to hold the power just fine.

They are definitely holding up good I have put a lot of miles on them already and my car literally squeaks the tires on the 1st to 2nd shift it shifts so hard. I don't have access to a TIG welder or the ability to use one so I work with what I've got.

Thanks!

Thanks!(-:

Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.

@@CarswithNashhow are these holding up, still together?

@Justforfun-ek7et Absolutely, I still drive the car daily and very aggressively and they are showing no signs of failure. I have around 10k miles on them now.

@@CarswithNash fantastic! I may have a job doing this for a friend coming up and this will be the method I do! Thanks for the response!

Thank you!(-:

Thank you!

I did mark them with a center punch and lined them up with a straight edge later.

I disagree. Standard cross-and-roller U-joints need to be in phase as the shaft accelerates/decelerates whenever there is shaft misalignment. CV joints, by their nature, do not change the shaft speed during misalignment.

You definitely could, but of course, you're adding another potential fail point.

I would do this again without hesitation, my car has an aggressive shift kit and literally spins the tires just shifting and these are holding up great in it, 3000kms on them already.

I actually have another swap that will involve different sized axles as well so I have put some thought into this. I would try to find a sleeve that will fit tight on the smaller axle and bring it up to the same diameter as the larger one, but don’t weld the exposed end of the sleeve all the way either, do it like I did or do a series of plug welds all over it, but don’t do a solid weld around the end, your main weld joint will of course build up to it on that end, then smooth it and slide another sleeve over, that first sleeve should stick out past the second sleeve a little bit. Biggest issue is probably going to be finding a couple of sleeves that will be in the exact dimension you need, you should be able to slit a slightly larger sleeve length wise and hammer it together and reweld it to shrink it down a bit, if need be. I have really put my axles to the test and they haven’t shown any signs of weakness yet, my car literally chirps the tires going into second every shift and a couple times during this winter I accidentally spun on ice and then caught some bare pavement. Good luck with your project.

@@CarswithNash thanks mate, actually looking for a metal lathe now, think it might come in handy for this and other things

@@CarswithNash will you be doing g a video of your other swap ?

@@GaryTaylorvw I will be but it might be a while before I get to it. It’s a project I’m doing with my son, a ‘89 Toyota Tercel we are swapping in a SOHC 2.0/5spd from a 2004 Dodge Neon.

@@CarswithNash hi again, will e7018 rods do the job on cv shafts and subframe modifications ?

If you follow this procedure that should not be a problem. My car is around 300 hp but it has a very aggressive shift kit in the transmission, literally slams you into the seat every shift and these axles have held up just fine, I’ve beat them hard!

I’m confident they would, I’m running a little over 300 hp in a 3,500lbs RWD car that shifts so aggressively it chirp‘s the tires and they are holding up just fine. The key is welding the sleeve like I did, that prevents the stress crack that normally is the fail point on spliced axles.

@@CarswithNash Hey man thanks for the reply, im tempted to use the "step" method ive seen done as its alot less heat into the shaft and acts like a kind of locking system. and then use the method you have used with the sleeve. Either way dude yours look great so i have the options on what to do now!

@@Triicks111 I consider doing the step joint but the reason why I did not is I think that is only a benefit if you have the equipment to machine that joint perfectly… if you are just using basic tools it’s unlikely you’re going to get total contact within that joint. Also I figure if that weld was to fail inside the sleeve it’s going to come apart no matter what kind of joint you have there at that point. I controlled the heat with an air gun as I went, of course you don’t want to overcool it, that will make it brittle, but if you just cool it a little as you go to keep it from really cooking. Since I was working with an assembled axle I of course didn’t want to melt the boots either.

Thanks!(-: