Thank you for watching, This is the complete build including painting and weathering of the new Dragon Sdfz 252 munitions halftrack. ANDY'S HOBBY HEADQUARTERS 15224 N 59TH AVE SUITE 12 GLENDALE, AZ 85306
I am constantly amazed on all of these model-making videos how building the actual kit is seen as a chore and that the “real” fun doesn’t start until the weathering is applied. To someone like me (who does not have a single artistic bone in their body) building painting the kit is enough. No matter what theatre of war the vehicle served in, it must have been new and shiny at some time?
ANOTHER GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO, AND AN AMAZING BUILD. THANX FOR ALL THE INFO & POINTERS ON PAINTING & WEATHERING! IT WOULD BE AWESOME TO SEE THOSE 2 VEHICLES TOGETHER IN A NICE WINTER DIORAMA!
thanks for the new vid Andy, wish I could have made it to the con, I'm working on a t34/85 with full interior and about to start a takom king tiger with full interior loved watching your content keep up the good work!!!
Hi Andy, first off; brilliant channel.Thanks to you I've just bought 2 new model kits after a 30 year break. The F-15 Strike Eagle and a Vietnam era Huey chopper. Can't wait to get stuck in again using the techniques I've learnt here. Keep up the great work.
Andy, I'd love to see you build one of the M3 Stuart kits from Academy. It's a tiny tank, but I'm not seeing many builds on RU-vid. I've got one in my stash, but like to see a good build on one. Thanks. Love the channel.
Hey Andy, glad to see another video! Anyway, I'm making the pilgrimage from the Northwest down to your store! I should be seeing you this Friday! I sure can't wait. Thanks Andy!
Hi Andy . Really enjoy the show. Just wondering if you have tried Mr Paint paints? They are really good paints and give them a try I did and they give a modeler another tool to help one bring their models to life. Keep up the good work sir and really do enjoy the show's. Gary
Hey Andy, a tip, put some clear tape over the label of the paint bottle, where it says what paint it is. That way if you spill paint over over it, you can wipe it away without destroying the label. Or if the paint dries before you notice it, you can use some thinner and clear it up. It's come in handy a few times for me. :-) Thanks for the great vids, Cheers!
Another great build and review, the kit looks great and is defiantly on my shopping list. Shame all that nice interior and engine is hidden, always the way though!
I absolutly love these kits, and i love seeing you giving them " life ", alas its a shame that i would never be able to do something like that lololol, because despite the fact that im ambidextrous, i have 2 left feet for hands when it comes to this sort of build.
Hi Andy. Really enjoy the channel. Got me back into modeling. Have a few questions. 1. When you drybrush are you using the same thinned paint that is used for airbrushing, or a different bottle? 2. Saw the video on thinning Tamiya paint. Do you thin Vallejo paints as well, and if so how do you recommend to? 3. Any chance of mini-gaming models being painted?
I'm currently on its cousin, the Sd. Kfz. 253, which is an older Dragon kit (Cyber-Hobby 9128). This still has the old lower hull in three parts and has no photo-etched parts included. Otherwise they seem quite similar. One suggestion I'd like to make: wouldn't it be better to glue the guide wheel only when you dry-fit the tracks? The arm can be rotated a little: that way you can fine-tune the track tension, just like for the real vehicle.
Very nice build of a beautiful model. I get a lot of modelling tips and model reviews having watched your videos for some time now. I thought I'd return the favor and re-post here a modelling tip I also posted on both Scale Modeling Madness and QDC's recent video builds. I should hit up Plasmo and Hamikar's too. Here's the tip as I posted it on QDC's latest video: Modeling Tip!!! There are many of you out there that may already know this; but I came upon this myself just this week after watching a modeling video by Scale Modeling Madness in which he mentions he buys a cheap filler and cleans it up with a Q-tip soaked in some solvent. Curious about this filler-solvent technique I tried out a few fillers and stumbled upon the combination of Testors Filler, the stuff that's been around for decades in the old style glue-tooth paste tube, and isopropyl alcohol (mine happens to be 91% alcohol). There are some tricks in using them together though. 1st: It has to be done in layers as wiping the Q-tip over the filler removes some from the separation joint you are trying to fill. I have to admit I only tried this right after I put the filler on and it was still pliable. I did not try it once the filler sets up. I did let the filler set up between building up the layers (and the subsequent wiping with moist Q-tips), which is the most time consuming part of this technique. 2nd: Be sure to really get filler into the joint, not just over it because once you clean it up with a few Q-tips moistened with alcohol any filler on the surface gets spread out. 3rd: Speaking about the filler getting spread out, IT DOES! You have to use several Q-tips and even a paper towel, again moistened with alcohol, to remove the filler from the surrounding surface. Don't go nuts removing it from recessed panel lines and the like;; since this is the old Testors filler it does not dissolve into the plastic and can easily be removed from within surrounding panel lines, once it hardens, with a toothpick or the back edge of your hobby knife. Please bear in mind, you will have to spend a few minutes cleaning up the filler from the surrounding surface as it spreads out and leaves a lite coating behind. The advantages of this method. NO SANDING!!! NO LOST DETAILS!!! SMOOTH JOINTS (once several coats applied then wiped clean)!!! FAST!!! EASY!!! Hope you find this useful.
Great work as always Andy. Quick question, I want to do Wittmann's Tiger 1 (1331) at the battle of Kursk and I am wondering if this kit could be used to show reloading of ammo? Also, is there after market decals for this kit?
Hello,Andy. Are the rollers on the sprockets still centered on the pad,rather than slightly ahead of the flat pad area on the sprocket wheel? I know this has been a detail point missed by Dragon on the 250 and 251 kits.
hi Andy great video, i subscribed :), and I was wondering if you would try doing a model without the airbrush because I'm sure you'd have some great tips for noobies like me that just have the brush and the paint, thank you in advance
I too am horrible with figures Andy, but I have become much better as of late. I work in just 1/35 and to be honest, I feel that the super detailed faces are cool, but the main attraction on my armor kits, is the armor. I'll paint the figures just basic, 2 to 4 colors on the uniform if needed, and 2 colors for the face, darker flesh color and a lighter color for highlights. I then paint any hair with 1 dark and one light of similar colors. I have seen so many modelers go crazy with figures, that is great for them, but in all honestly is art not meant to be seen a little further away then just up in your face?
Hi Andy nice build, I did one a few weeks ago but nothing near the quality of your. One question mine had a driver but no way could I get him into his seat, his arms stopped him going in so in the end I left him out. Did you have the same problem? Keep up the good work, cheers Phil in UK.
The idea that they had these heavy Transporters for carrying ammunition is kind of interesting. A number lighter vehicles would have done the job too? Or do I miss something?
i really enjoy your videos. great work! i only find one thing annoying, I have to constantly adjust the volume. Your voice sometimes is quiet and then the classical music just super loud. but other than that thank you for sharing your great work. greeting from germany!
Great build, Andy and a great learning experience!!! A question, I noticed that the some of the equipment the Germans used had their steering wheels at an angle... they suppose to be that way?
Hi, how are you??? I am a follower of yours and I see all your videos and you do a good job. But I wanted to ask you a question, they say that painting with the white color in the airbrush is bad, that is to say, it damages the airbrush a lot, it is the color that damages more than with other colors, is it true ???? greetings from Spain.
