Building and painting the 1/1400 scale USS Enterprise NCC-1701-C from AMT/Round 2. 00:00 Intro 00:50 Building 03:21 Painting 03:51 Masking 14:46 Detail painting 22:07 Decals 28:03 Putting it all together
Thank you for showing the preparation you do albeit in fast time - I’ve just ordered my first “easy” model so seeing the prep process is valuable. I want to start as I mean to carry on, so following and seeing a kiwi in action is relatable, understandable and fun
Glad it was helpful! And yep decals makes everything a bit easier. Not sure about the yellow vivid, it might be too transparent to be effective on the paint. You'd probably want to paint them white first, then apply yellow.
Have always liked the Enterprise C. When you said to wait for part 2 I can't help wondering if you have a second C and are planning to show it with battle damage? Also are you going to build the Enterprise B at some point, would love to see that. Keep up the good work.
No there's only 1, that's why I left it almost complete, I just want to appreciate it for a bit before I smash it up. 😀 I'd love to do the B, just need to find one!
Interesting seeing photos of the studio model the warp grills were painted copper but watching the episode they are always seen illuminated blue at impulse.
I usually spray the decal sheets with a coat of clear before applying. Helps to prevent the decals from breaking apart. I used to use Testors Decal Bonder before they discontinued it.
I’ve always wanted to do this kit because the C is one of my favorites but it’s quite rare at this point. I always thought that this kit must be a beast to paint and detail but you make it look so easy, thanks.
Nice video and beautiful model 😄👍. Thank you for this journey through time. At that time I watched the series and also built the models from AMT. I'm looking forward to next part.
Brilliant video, as always. Your Trek 'flavour' commentary always makes me smile, and frankly, when it comes to the powered-down look, you're the boss! So glad to see new videos in 2022 too. Stay happy and healthy ModelChili, all the best from your fans in Poland! :)
To avoid gaps like the last one, I've always used clothespins, for hanging clothing on a drying line. They also work well for holding part trees off wire when painting, or using as stands for larger parts. They have 10000000 uses in model making tbh
Nice! - got this kit in the stash - seem they are getting fairly hard to find. Hopefully they got re-popped. As any aside - THANK YOU for including your paint choices and mixture ratios in your build logs. Helps me and I'm sure other ALOT. For sure - keep that up!
Glad you found it useful! Yeah they are very hard to find unfortunately. I was lucky and saw this pop up on a local online trading site, first one I've seen available for years so had to snap it up.
Great build on a old kit! This is a kit that Round 2 needs to revisit say in a 1/1000 scale. I never liked the paint scheme for this ship. It should have had some Aztec details to it the blue sections just contrast too much. The C was a good bridge design wise between the Excelsior and Galaxy class.
@@modelchili with 3d modelling and printing it would be a no-brainer to fix the flaws in these old kits. Maybe a updated 1/1000 D and E and even a new B and we could have a complete Enterprise fleet in a detailed scale. I would be a happy camper for years!
@@modelchili Since I already have quite a few of the 1/1000 kits I too would love to see the all the Enterprises in matching scale, along with all the other races. I know this would make a ship like the 'E' pretty big at 1/1000 -- about 2 1/4 feet maybe -- but the 1/350 K'Tinga is 2 feet and I have it out on display. I always find room.
I don't like the blue paintjob on this model, either. (By paintjob, I mean the original model, not what ModelChili is doing with it!!!) It's a good design -- one of the better TNG designs -- but I think it would have popped out better painted up like the Constitution Class Refit or even the considerably less-blue Galaxy Class Enterprise-D. The blue doesn't pop out on the model in the original version of "Yesterday's Enterprise." I guess the paintjob got 'whited out' by the intense lights used to shoot the model for the episode. A lot of those Star Trek models' paintjobs don't look anything like the ships appeared onscreen in the movies and TV series. The most infamous examples for me are the D7 and K'tinga class models. I had no idea those ships were painted green! By the time they were lit and filmed, they appeared light grey or dark grey. It wasn't until I saw photos of the K'tinga model and Boyd Crompton's (TrekWorks) own build of the 1/350 scale K'tinga model that I accepted the Battlecruiser was originally green! The ONLY time I saw that model in the correct colors was the paintjob for Star Trek VI. In that film, the model WAS photographed the way it was painted in real life -- in other words, the lighting didn't overpower the custom paintjob done for The Undiscovered Country. Frankly, I felt the paint scheme for the K'tinga model in Star Trek VI was the best that design ever looked.
The problem with the 1701-C paint scheme is. It makes No sense. This class was built before the Galaxy class. to which the Galaxy class just had the standard Aztec paint scheme like the Refit, Reliant, Excelsior, and Grissom had. Yet the 1701-C had this weird round pattern design with bright panels that made no sense what so ever. it should had, had the Aztec paint scheme with only some blue panel lines like the Excelsior had. Where as you did an awesome job on your painting of the kit. and I very much give you credit for having the patients for doing all the masking to copy it.... Nicely well done. I am planning on just doing the standard Aztec design on mine with some blue highlight panels on mine. Speaking of goofs that were made on the 1701=C design did you notice they left the impulse engines off the saucer section even though they outlined the separation line on the neck dorsal where the saucer could be ejected in an emergency. which meant in case of separation the saucer would have to escape under thruster's. which meant it wasn't going very far fast. The model department was in such a rush to get the model completed in time for filming yesterday's Enterprise. they forgot to add the saucer impulse engines. even though they were on the drawings to show how they were also wound up in the Galaxy class design.
I think the filming model was built with a small budget and timeframe, so they didn't have time to add in the complex aztec pattern and extra details like impulse engines. But yeah from an in-universe perspective it's a bit of an outlier.
I woud love to get my hands on that kit because the smaller one I am scared of the decals because I may mess something up. Shame that the kit has really gone up in price and I can't find one that is at a reasonable price. Still you did an awesome job on your model and it looks amazing.
@@modelchili That's what I said about road wheels when I decided to build all of my remaining 1/35 Pz III kits (13 of them, one being a Bergepanzer resin conversion) last year -- we're talking 13 sets of road wheels. And 9 sets of track links. You do what you have to do to get it done. Actually about to go spray base coats on the 1/1000 Klingon D-7, Enterprise and Botany Bay, Romulan BoP, Grissom, and Klingon BoP kits in a few minutes, believe it or not. Had the idea to light them all but I want to get them done in my life time. I've got a bit of a problem.
Very Nice Work ! I’m curious as To why This Ship had such an elaborate type of Paint Job in Star Fleet , maybe it was A New design for The Ambassador Class Ship to look prestigious maybe .
I was happy after 1 have succesfully 2x larger square shaped decals applied on a mark iv tank, but this will be for me too hard, i will sure ,,die'' by saucer side decals. Perfect, nice work. A 1701-D Enterprise will be for me impossible to complete because the complex decals, like also uss discovery. Thanks for this video.
That's one thing that I always hated about the 1/1400th decals that the lower registry where it goes below the phasers was always too small. I don't know why they made that error. They obviously had access to photos of the studio model.
Nice build, always loved the C. I am wondering why you didn't choose the same colours as your smaller kit as I felt that the more muted blue looked a lot better and to scale?
Thanks! Yeah the smaller Enterprise C kit was done using decals, and they're completely the wrong colour. That's one thing I forgot to mention! The studio model has much brighter blues.
@@modelchili Ah thats fair enough. I personally prefer them more muted though and look more like it was seen on screen. The age old debate between model and what it looked like on screen I guess.
Yep that's always the struggle! Lately I've preferred to go towards what the studio models look like, just in a brightly lit room with no internal lights. I've always loved that look from those behind the scenes photos.
I'd recommend getting a no-brand compressor and airbrush bundle. They're pretty affordable, and that's what I used for years before finally getting a "fancy" airbrush, which is currently an Iwata.
I'd like to see you do the Reliant still (yeah yeah, I'm a broken record), and also the Enterprise D in the 1/1400 with separating saucer, and do the aztec pattern (not decals). I've been attempting this myself on an old kit, but wow it's tough.
I've done a few of those Enterprise Ds, back in the 90s though, long before RU-vid! And yes the 1/1000 Reliant is in my stash, just waiting to be built.
This is one of my favorite ships and my favorite enterprises.... Just one question.. on the escape pods.. why wouldn't you tape off the sauser and cut off the tape on the pods and paint the pods that way?
Looks amazing. Question. The tape seems very stuck. When u pull it it’s not pulling paint. How come. How long do u let it cure before masking and do u add a top coat after each color before masking.
Thanks! I don't really do anything outside of what you see in the video. A good primer usually prevents paint from pulling up with tape. I let the paint dry for at least an hour or two, and make sure to use a medium tack masking tape.
@@twodaysbuild You can also stick the tape to the inner part of your forearm to remove a bit of the tackiness. Just make sure no hairs got stuck to it before you apply it to the model, of course.
@@twodaysbuild There are also issues with some paints not sticking as well to the kit, so the previous suggestion to use a primer is always good. I use Tamiya and AK through an airbrush on almost everything and when I don't use a primer I have to handle them a bit more carefully to avoid chipping the paint off edges until I can get a sealing coat on it. I primer car and tank models with regular spray paint from the hardware store. Cheap and effective.
2 года назад
I just wish this model came with the Aztec pattern.
Hi Bill, I can't reply to your Tumblr question without posting it publically, so please contact me using my email, which you can find in my channel about page, and yes please send me photos! 😁
I don't usually thin them, the Model Air range is specifically designed to be used in airbrushes straight out of the bottle. Are you using the Model Color range? That's a bit thicker, and designed for brush painting.
@@modelchili I have used both. It seems its harder for me to get good results when working on larger scale models compared to smaller ones. What pressure and needle size do you use. And thanks for the response. I bought this kit last year and have not started it yet. I want to get it right.
Nozzle size is 0.3mm and the pressure is about 20/25 PSI. You could try stripping down and cleaning the airbrush, that usually fixes a lot of spraying problems I have.
@@modelchili I do that after every session. I love the colors available from Vallejo, I'll keep practicing. Tamiya always seems to go on much easier. Thanks again.
I prefer black windows for a couple of reasons. 1) I like to build and paint these to replicate the studio models, which are usually seen unlit, and 2) White windows blend in too much with light greys and blues, and basically disappear. Having all the windows black gives it more of a sense of scale. I'd rather light it up with LEDs than simulate lights.
Very nice build, but why did you paint such a stark, bright, sky blue all over the ship? In the screen caps from TNG, the blue is barely discernible, and mostly looks gray. Even the studio model, (which is always painted more vividly that the prop makers intend it to look on camera), is a much more subtle blue. Those types of accents are not intended to read blue on camera, but just give some texture and complexity to the model, to make it seem more realistic. So, was this a personal design interpretation on your part, or is there something i'm totally missing?
I deleted my previous comment because you answered it in another comment. I think it looks great. All of those windows. To be honest, this is my least favorite Enterprise design.
