This was one of the first model kits I ever built (more like slapped together any old how) as a little boy back in the mid-70s. Had no paint and of course I got confused about the instructions. Still a childhood icon so thank you for showing this build.
One thing I found out about this kit is that the area where the nacelles plug into on the kit did not originally have the flat bottom. In the original 1960's run of this kit it originally had rudimentary lights but the plug for the nacelles was open bottom and a plastic pin was inserted to hold the nacelles in place. So if you open this area up it should eliminate the nacelle to hull gap commonly found on these kits.
@@PlasticModelBuilder It's the one flaw in this kit that they never thought about when repopping this kit post 1960's. But openint that part up to allow the tab to fully seat can allow for more surface area to glue it in securely just as long as you also strengthened the struts as well to reduce the twist it could be subjected to. Why not try that the next time you do this kit.
I can watch it. I'm simply not a trekker/ie. The model was given to a family member that greatfully apprecited it. It sits with the Shatner Auto that I also got in person to go with the model.
I did the same thing you did. Just held it together and added a couple coats of glue over those wide seams. It worked out well. Same as you had to do a bit of sanding and filling. Only difference was I was building a 1989 kit that I had gotten off eBay. I really enjoyed this video.
I built the original AMT model back in the day, but it didn't come out at beautiful as yours. I kept it the natural white plastic, but painted the little parts before cementing them in place. It came with a stand, but I hung it up from the ceiling in my bedroom. If I remember correctly it had a battery with two little lights on it. You did a great job!
@@PlasticModelBuilder That's because the early editions of the AMT model were very different from what is available now. Most notably, the proportions and some details of the model are a much closer match in terms of accuracy to the 3 foot and 11 foot studio models used in the production of the series. The first three editions came with lighting, the engineering hull being designed so that the deflector cone could twist off and you could put the batteries in a rack alone with the switch and wiring that could be fed up through the dorsal neck and into the saucer to the bridge and sensor domes. The second edition later had additional wiring and bulbs so that the nacelles, with semi-clear amber red domes could be lit as well. Then, as more editions came out, the model was redone to save on production costs, despite it selling extremely well for AMT, namely by eliminating the battery rack, switch, wiring, and bulbs. The parts were retooled and became increasingly less accurate. Many modelers went to great lengths of accurize the kit to be more accurate, especially as more people obtained high-quality photos of the 11 foot model at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, or behind the scenes and publicity photos of it and the 3 foot model.
@@PlasticModelBuilder yeah, it arrived there after I moved south. Im sure things were colored specially for film and tv broadcast, but the result on the screen is closer to white or very light gray in most of the footage from the original (nonCGI) effects shots.
@Plastic Model Builder Do you know where I can get replacement decals? I received this kit as a gift too since I'm a trekkie, but it didn't have the decals. I'm trying to find replacement decals.
This is the 1960s AMT kit, with the warp nacelles that do not taper. Revell AG more recently had issued a new mold kit, which I understand had corrected the worst of the old model's flaws. Have you seen this younger kit? If so, is this true? Whilst you are applying the decals, you have the model inverted, the camera on the stern, with a clear view of the hangar bay doors and the overhang of the Secondary Hull immediately above. The view here shows a glaringly obvious seam gap along the centreline, requiring filling and painting. Another issue about the decals, specifically, those of the windows: all I can see are are black. Is all the ship's interior dark?
I'm not to worried about the gap. The model was a gift to my cousin and she didn't sit there to analyze every detail of it. I haven't any other kit but this one.
I would try going to scalemates and see if there is a manual you can download. I know I used Stoplight Red for the round tips. Copper for the Radar and Light, Dark, and Medium Gray for the other parts.
They're not hewn in stone. As with any topic, it's a matter of debate between nerds and self-appointed gatekeepers. The original filming model looks different in real life than it does on screen, and the appearance differs between the original and the remastered versions of the show. Since this will be your own, individual take model, may I suggest to trust your own eyes?
Hi Ari, and the builds just keep on comin'. Great, inspiring work. I gotta break down and spend some money on these kits. You make me wanna do my own thing with them. Thanks for sharing and inspiring the model craft.
