Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
YES!!!!!! THIS is the detailed information I have been waiting for!!!! Thank you so much for doing this for us, Robert!!! If you had a powerful enough telescope and could train it on me, you would be watching me do a little jig of spastic-happiness... dancing around my computer, with a turtle in one hand, and a donut in my other hand... while singing praises in your name!!!
Anneka Brimhall You can send pics to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com. If I can get my act together at some point I will put together a Facebook group or discord server, something like that.
A million points for packing tape and cardboard. I've used corrugated cardboard covered with packing tape, held together with hot glue, for years to make mold forms. I started using packing tape around 2013. Before that I used glossy cardboard because platinum cure silicone wouldn't stick to it. At some point I couldn't find glossy finished cardboard to make a form and the thought hit me that I could use packing tape. I've extolled the cheapness and versatility of packing tape, cardboard and hot glue to many people doing silicone molds and most of them continue to use things like LEGO, or L boards and clamps (I made a few sets of L boards before I started using cardboard and pressure casting the molds.) or other items that are cumbersome and give poor results. Apparently they think it just can be that simple and easy. I've been in this as a business since the late 1990's. Followed a lot of advice early on that gave poor results but over time I came up with techniques that are easy, low cost, and make good molds and castings. I mostly make reproduction parts for classic cars, including pieces that have gone onto cars shown at Hershey and other concours d'elegance shows. It all started with a need for a pair of tail light lenses for a 1953 Hudson Super Wasp... I had one good but faded lens, made a latex mold supported with fiberglass and cast new lenses with clear polyester casting resin and a ton of transparent red dye. The results were terrible but with a lot of sanding and polishing they worked. I'd grown up in a ceramics business where I learned about mold making concepts, which applied to fiberglass (I made some parts for a Mustang, still have the molds, people want the parts but don't want to pay enough to cover the materials cost) and also to silicone. Thankfully with silicone undercuts and other things not possible with plaster or fiberglass can be done.
There's a trick for pouring from a wide-mouthed container into something much smaller: 1) Get a rod that is longer than the container is wide (I like something about 2-3 times as long). For that container, I'd be thinking about either a piece of wire coat-hanger or a chopstick. 2) Lay the rod across the top of the container with most of the excess on the side you will be pouring from. 3) Pour. When pouring, the surface tension of the liquid will tend to adhere the stream to the surface of the rod, so the liquid will follow the rod. This can take a bit of practice, as too much or too little flow can both cause problems. 4) When you have enough out, leave the end of the rod in/over the receptacle while tilting the wide-mouthed contain back to stop the flow. 5) Allow whatever is still on the rod to flow into the smaller container, then clean the stick. I've used this for pouring paint into 15ml/0.5 oz plastic squeeze bottles without really any problems; it should work fine for resin or rubber components as well.
It’s amazing to me that you think you are cranky or whiny at all, it’s so wholesome seeing you work that if it weren’t for the overlay I wouldn’t even be able to tell you were annoyed in the slightest! Honestly those containers would annoy me too if i was used to working with something better ;)
Great little how-to beginners’ style! I really appreciated the tip on pouring the catalyst first. I haven’t worked with molding silicone yet and trying to pick up all the tips I can find before getting started. I like to bake so I’m familiar with the idea that little tips like the order of ingredients can really make a big difference in labor. Thank you!
I made myself a few mixing paddles that mix well without drawing bubbles into the mix. They are small brass sheet squares soldered onto a hacksaw slotted round copper rod. The paddle is small enough to always stay submerged in the mix while the round shaft is all that breaks the surface and it reduces the bubbles. I find a gentle scrap of the sides is all that is needed to ensure a full mix.
I cut up my failed molds all the time and us up the chunks...that stuff is too expensive. I am still a total newb but had some successes thanks to videos like yours.
So it really all comes down to brushing on a print coat in order to avoid bubbles. Good to know. That's exactly what I was preparing to do with my upcoming, really important, must-not-have-bubbles, project.
I really loved this video, because I am just starting out and you used the things I have available to me. I actually purchased that exact kit yesterday before I saw your video. I don’t have all the tools and contraptions that you have in your workshop so this was a great video for me the beginner. Thanks so much!
I greatly appreciate your experience, your many many tips both little and large, and your presentation. You're like having a friendly guy next door who has pretty much all the know-how. Thanks!
The print molding technique recalls a conversation I had with the tech rep from the Smooth-on company. I was making ink stamps and asked the fellow: What does the rubber stick-to? He said it sticks to itself. Of course.
These videos are a an absolute pleasure to watch... The pace, the tonality, the structure and logic show an amazing level of professionalism - not only regarding the craft but also regarding a didactic approach. Thank you for all the effort of making these outstanding videos!
thank you for these awesome videos, after gaining confidence watching your videos, i made my first cut mould today of something i thought was too complicated for a one-piece pour mould.
wow the trick with drowning the wasted chunks of silicone in the mold is fantastic! how have I not thought of that. Good thing I didn't throw away any of the failed molds. I have some failed 2-part molds where mold release didn't work and the 2 parts stuck together forever. I force rip them apart, and there are chunks from both parts.
I used Magic Mold a few times and I found that making the mold box out of waxed cartons makes it a breeze. I clean out the waxed carton of Half & Half or Orange Juice and cut them up and glue them back together as per my needs and they work great. Once in awhile I may even use a little Vaseline to coat the carton for extra insurance. Coated Card Board never worked for me. I even used spray release on some. They always came out good. The Exacto Blade Knife is the way to go for cutting the mold apart. Utility knives are way to wide and bulky. I enjoy your videos and I’m learning a lot as well. Thank you. Richard
@@RobertTolone I'm 36 and I remember watching him back when I was a kid. The guy was incredible!!!! I appreciate your videos. Thank you. Keep up the great work!!!
I’m so glad I found your channel and thank you for this video! This answered a lot of questions I had as a beginner wanting to dip my toes into resin molding and casting without investing in a lot of equipment just yet.
Great vid Robert! Loved seeing you do things with more 'basic' materials. I also super hate tubs like that with the wide opening, I get it everywhere :( Hope the family is well, all the best
I have a hot melt glue tip for you. Worked on hobby models and even the walls of an old apartment. A drop of denatured alcohol will wick in and help you much much easier remove hot glue. It's fantastic. Love watching the molds.
Robert, I have been sort of busy with work stuff and sick on top, but I am meaning to email you a project just to share in the near future. But for now, I just want to say once again that your videos are absolute gold. No joke you are my favorite youtuber at this point I think. If you ever do a one day class or something down in LA or somewhere else in CA I would love to attend!
Really great video! I would miss my setup too, if I had to leave it for an extended amount of time. It's interesting to see what you can do with you knowledge with lesser equipment though!
I was hoping that this demonstration would prove you don’t really need gear to successfully make molds. All it really did however was make me miss my tools!
When I mix small amounts I pre-measure using water and a pipette (dosing plunger for baby medicine). Then I mark on the side of the cup exactly 5ml or however much I need.
Thanks for this video! The blowing out the bubbles technique looks valuable and simple. This was full of really wise words/techniques for anyone who was listening. This is the benefit of years of your attention it strikes me. I am grateful you are sharing it so openly! I admire your professional level, and your personal opinion. Not complaining! I have so much to learn lol Thanks again!
Good video! Very informational on doing a small first time project! Even on some of the comments as well. Now I have to find the next video of pouring your duck. Cause I will have a question on different types of resin strength!
Oddly, tin-based silicone rubbers are condensation cure rubber, meaning that they actually pull moisture out of the air while curing. I have heard that extremely dry environments can inhibit the cure or at least slow it down. But then I have never heard anyone recommend adding water to the rubber to speed up the cure. But my blowing on the rubber certainly did not negatively affect the cure of this particular mold.
Great video! I asked in your other video what you could do about bubbles if we don't have machinery, and you answered all my questions. Never would have thought about using a straw! Thank you!
Thanks for making these amazing videos, a lot to learn as a newbie. Questio: wouldn't it be easier to use the packing tape to seal all the cardboard instead of glue. That shouldn't stick at all
Yes, you can make a case entirely out of cardboard and packing tape. Just be sure to seal every crack and see him carefully. It’s astonishing how silicone can escape through the tinyest of cracks!
when i make a mold i often blow on it , but i also use gravity to dislodge bubbles from the oryginal item by rocking the mold side to side and front to back after poring silicone for about 10-20 minutes bubbles mostly collect at the surface and the oryginal is free of defects for 2 pieces molds i often mix both layers in different colors the biggest piece i ever casted succesfully was 1:20 scale porsche 911 turbo targa rc car body with thin window frame, back window bridge and screw standofs and i often use lego as the mold frame silicone don't usually stick to painters tape so i often use that to coat the lego bricks frame from the inside
You have probably heard this suggestion before but just in case... With an inexpensive 3D printer and some filament you could produce a mould housing or shell replacing the cardboard box.... It could be designed to be 2 or 3 mm larger than the final mould and plastic being fairly strong, would add strength to the mould during the casting process... Mike
Great video, Robert. Really enjoyed it. Cure inhibition and bubbles have been my greatest enemies. A number of steps taken and 7-8 molds later and I've got it dialed without a proper vacuum chamber (I did actually build a homemade vacuum chamber with a shop vac and few other household items, but its not 100% percent effective. Would need stronger vacuum and stronger walls). Thanks for your help !
Hi Chris, the first vacuum chamber I ever built used a shop vac and it was a miserable failure! In this video I explain why shop vacs don’t work: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QU8JS5HZIYw.html Platinum rubbers are much more sensitive to cure inhibition than tin rubbers are. Sulfur and metals such as copper and brass are notorious for causing cure inhibition. But you never know when some bad chemical reaction will rear its ugly head. That’s why you must always test your materials to see if they are compatible.
That’s great guide for everyone to run tests by applying the silicone rubber on each pieces it will contact with ! After all mold inhibition makes big waste 😹
I love your homage to Chef Justing Wilson ( Cajun humorist ) inspriing and wonderful chef to watch "back in the day". You are correct in this stuff is "shockingly expensive", obscene even. It truly is a barrier to entry to have a hobby. Silicon molds would be a good compliment to my 3d printing projects. Would ordinary candle wax or even bees-wax candles be benefitial to coat the molds?
Hi Robert , Thanks again. Its very pleasant to have your vids on while working. Right now as i watch your mold techniques and colorful comments ..hiih.. im trying to make some custom scifi looking lights for a head piece..could find what i wanted but had some latex rubber to make dip molds. ithas that nice brownbeige rubber ..and is pretty strong stuff... made a flat mold of corrugated material ( gonna fold over with LEDs in it to form corrugated tubing thats semi transparent with mesh sealed inside ..the layers uneven mostly from the latex layering..will give that faded..yellowish ..scifi..relic almost burnt out look.... but as you might be able to guess..its 20 sec application of a new layer ..and 20 min / hour dry time.. so your vids are running on my comp screen next to me... and its really nice. I guess its a man thing ,... seeing someone working ..busy...kind of makes you wanna do something too .. and really helps with the "..i dont really have to.."..that sneaks in after being stuck inside for almost a year now.... So yeah... My new happy place online...been learning more that i thought i would. Thats gonna come in real handy real soon i'd bet. Funny thing about knowing how to do something..you end up in situations where you will need it also..?!
Gave this a quick watch yesterday night, and will probably re-watch tonight to try and make decent/good candy molds for an upcoming thing. While I think I understand everything else, was there a reason you poured the silicone in several smaller batches/layers(not counting the paint on and the feet part) or was that mainly due to the various cardboard angles, chunkies, and other elements that helped save on the silicone?
your voice and manner of speaking reminds me of Red Green. but like a competent useful Red Green. really great info. i am one of those home crafters. I have no pressure pots or vacuum chambers just a desire to make and a willingness to try.
Just got into this channel (40k models trying to reproduce), and I was just saying to a freind: "This guy makes it look fun and easy, I think I could do it. But I don't have a vacuum chamber..." 2 hours later, I see this video.
very entertaining video, it was fun to see a pro using the basic local hobby shop products I use as a hobbyist. The Amazing mold rubber is indeed very brittle, I tore my first molds because I wasn't using mold conditioner/mold release and the casts would tear chunks of the rubber out.
What kind of mold release do you use with Amazing Mold rubber? I bought their casting resin and I am about to begin the video about casting the duck sculpture. Wasn’t planning to use any kind of release agent. Do you think I’ll have problems?
@@RobertTolone I use Castin'craft Mold Release/Conditioner to help keep the molds in good shape, the first few casts come out fine but after about half a dozen I noticed the wear and tear start w/o any use of the mold release/conditioner
I am a newbe to molding and no expert😅☺️ Intressting.🤔 You pump in air, and I thought people use vaccum chambers for pulling out air to make the bubbles disapear. Do you might know what the difference between an pressure pot VS vaccum chamber? I have recently bought an aircompressor with 1 HP for investing in an airbrush for paint jobs. This may be a stupid question, but is'nt harmful for the aircompressor to blow in air by resistance, so the machine must work harder push itself to the limit what it was made for? Will the compressor wear out faster? Your aircompressor looks big and powerfull so it might handle it well. 😁👍🙏 Great video!👏
Haven't read the comments, where it might be answered, but, what about using the pure silicone calk and detergent method? would love to see you working with that.
I have seen that method used on RU-vid but I’ve never tried it. The truth is, I want my mold making and casting to be as reliable and efficient as possible. The goal is to get perfect castings every time. I never reach my goal but I try to get there. So I don’t experiment with homemade methods. But there’s no reason why you shouldn’t. Gives it a go let us know how it works for you!
I have a question about pre-applying the rubber of the metal model. Does the freshly poured rubber always adhere to the brushed on rubber? If so, then could the mold be reused multiple times?
@@RobertTolone beat me to it with that question. that would be really useful Robert thank you. Also I've had a look at the wax carving tool you use. Is there a cheaper starter tool?
Wow really reallt smart way of doing things! As always yiur explanations are excellent! I learned so much and you are very resourceful. Please always stay healthy too. Keep it up!
Could acrylic be a silicone curing inhibitor? I made a mold with acrylic walls and even after 24 hours they are not completely cured, the same rubber in an MDF mold is fully cured.
Less air = put rubber and catalyst into plastic zip baggie... force out the air... now knead it to mix it... cut the baggie corner to squeeze it out...
Wonderful video...quite humorous to see you at a tiny desk using rudimentary tools like any of us other hobbyists and crafters. Thanks for the videos they are just great. Also agree you should link the waxes you use and where to buy them either from Amazon or other retailers because it's hard to decide when you don't know what you looking for
getting rid of bubbles might not be so important, its mostly aesthetic but i spose it does weaken it structurally slightly. so maybe just do it with bubbles and its not so bad?
Like any flaw in craftsmanship , the reason to get rid of bubbles is that they are unsightly and detract from the quality of the casting. Therefore most people finish a casting by filling and sanding out the bubbles. That is a lot of extra work that must be repeated on each and every casting. Much better to employ good technique and eliminate the bubbles from the beginning.
At 7:40, could you use a little butane torch /jet lighter to pop bubbles like other two part compounds? Id be interested to hear if the direct heat and possible residues cause issues, or make a positive effect. : )
That technique is excellent for epoxy resins which cure much more slowly. but it doesn’t work for urethane resins partly because heat greatly speeds the cure of urethanes.
I use the vacuum chamber to remove the air from the rubber after it is mixed but before it is poured around the model. The pressure pot is used to suppress bubbles which can form in resin when it is poured into the mold.
