I have the exact same setup minus the backlash screws and rubber washers. Over 800 hours of constant printing and not a single failed print. But i need to change bed wheels ever 300-400 hours cause they disintegrate and every 50-60 hours those wheels need tightening. I just ordered a linear rail kit from creality just for the x axis as a test so i can cut down on wheels., and if it goes well i am planning on changing the y axis for rails too.
just about every upgrade you've shown in both your e3v2 upgrade videos I've done in the past year, with the exception that i upgraded my fan system to a minimus with dual coolers. at least you confirmed my upgrades were not in vain. Oh and I did it twice (i have 2 E3v2's) LOL
@maxy meanderings - any issues with motor sync on the z axis? lots of people seem to say you're better off with a belt driven system off a single motor as the two motors get out of sync?
I was about to give my Ender 3 V2 away and have most of this stuff installed or in a box, so I see this as an ultimate win. Seriously, I’ll probably finish the upgrades and give it away, just so I don’t give away junk.
Talks about second Z-axis, removing springs, but uses stock belts, which also are installed askew (yeah, as intended by manufacturer). Facepalm Remove bed regulation knobs, then argues that X bar is not bubble leveled. Double Facepalm Talking about 'PRO' firmware and printing like a turtle without pressure advance and input shaping. Multi Facepalm Installed spring nut upside down. Ultra Facepalm Have spent a lot of money for usless upgrades and recommend to spend $300 for tweaking a printer, instead of... You know some other brand printer, which is fast, does not have knobs, have 'professional' firmware out of the box, and costs less then $300. It is called.. like some european paper format. I will not advertise though. Monster Facepalm! PS Please understand me right. I am for cheap printing. And for Ender 3 actually (yeah, the bowden very first version). Just buy it cheap, you can get very cheap it. And install a direct drive. changing springs also a good idea. You also can just straighten your bed, with your knee, metal ruler and a flashlight. And thats all. No, you should not use bubble level to set up your printer. You better use high quality square, metal ruler and caliper. Also compiling firmware is nothing hard and you do not even need to buy printer for that. Just download your printer template (in case Ender 3 no trouble at all, unless you change motherboard). And that's it, just read the ducking manual. PPS Cheers!
i got a v2 neo less than 2 months ago, i upgraded to the pro firmware but do i still need to flash something for the bl touch to be better? this printer has been a huge pain honestly. just this week the x axis stepper motor started to grind and seized up, really regretting not going with a resin printer right now.
As tempting as the price tag of $129 is, glad I didn't go this rout. Just bought a Bambu Lab A1 Mini for $249, plug it in, and starts printing. No body got time to deal with 1980s technology.
More like A5 I would say, but yeah, this is a good choice if you do not want to tinker with printer. Even if you wanted, you can't = ) (Well actually there is a way to make heatbed reach 100C, so technically you can tinker a little)
'cause reasons = ) Yeah a good point actually. Some people just have to buy some proprietary stuff, so they cannot change anything and install upgrades on upgrades and just print some dragons, peekachus and llamas. = )
