Hello Dave, I am from Czech Rep. I am quite familiar with Zetor. I have two tractors from this home brand. So be carefull in Europan version you must olso check/change oil in diesel pump and the regulator, also. Use engine oil there. Hydraulic tooth pump is located in gear box in the end (under differential - circit flange shape). You must dismounth whole pump from gearbox (but first get down a hook). There should be a strainer/screen. That could be one of the reason of slow hydraulic. But looks like that there is some aditonal hydraulic circuit which is non standard in Europan models, so depends. We mostly use 80W-90 than single 80W for gearbox and the hydraulic in our wheater conditions.
PS: When you have a very iffy situation like that before you add fluid and possibly contaminate your patch, a second layer of JB is good insurance. Only this time lay it on with a layer of fiberglass cloth. This is also very helpful on a vertical or overhead surface where the JB wants to sag. The cloth will give a much stronger patch and help prevent cracking. Works well on plastics too.
You guys in your jb weld. If you weld it you don't need it. If u jb weld it don't weld it ever. Once u put that crap on an if it is cast iron you will never weld it later. But the way he welded it an it didnt blow a part id say it cast steel an just weld it up with 7018 or 8018 done
Dave, that hole in the bend on the exhaust pipe is factory made. It stops water getting into the engine through the exhaust pipe if left without a flapper on the muffler. Smart idea I think. All tractors should have that. Cheers.
That hole also prevents the knee from rusting inside out. As i was told, diameter should be at least 6.5mm (a bit less than 1/3"), if you do less, the surface tension of the water won't be broken. I put it to the test with a tube, water column in it was more than 1ft. First i drilled a 6mm hole, water was only dripping. After that i drilled 6.5mm and a fountain came out.
Dave, I just inherited a Zetor 5211. It's been parked out in the elements for 30+ years. The clutch is dead, and I can't get the transmission out of gear. The tractor ran perfectly when parked there ages ago, but time has taken its toll. I'm retired, so it appears I have a project. I just now started to do research on the tractor, and finding information is not easy. Service and parts manuals are hard to come by. I hope this one cleans up as nicely as yours did. Thanks for sharing your video.
loosen the injectors to allow the air to escape while you pump this will allow the trapped air to escape. Once you see a solid stream of fuel coming out then tighten them up and lock down the pump by pushing it down and tightening it.
You show remarkable calm in the face of repeatedly showering molten slag all over the pressurised oxy and acetylene hoses whilst wedging yourself in under the tractor and effectively blinding yourself to all but the plasma arc of the weld with your welding shield. It's good that there are other senses that will give you at least a short warning of the flames that will engulf you whilst you work out your next move.
Yup, really wouldn't have been much effort to move the bottles/truck round the other side. A lot of people have the "safety is for pussies" attitude until it happens to them.
11 месяцев назад
Hi there, the hand throttle has a little audible 'click' about 3cm from fully closed, thats the idle setting. Also when shutting the engine down, if it doesnt shut down completely, and stays on at very low RPM, like in the video, just pull on the foot throttle up with your hand, it should shut down without you going over to the regulator and pulling it there. VERY IMPORTANT: Don't forget to change the oil in the fuel pump and regulator, use regular engine oil there, and check it fairly regularly, so it doesnt get destroyed Have fun with your ZETOR Greetings from Czechia
Nice! My dad bought a Zetor 7711 brand new in 1992, he passed away in 2004. I just sold it a few months ago, it only had 250 hrs on it. I did some work to it before I sold it just from it sitting so long. New master cylinders for the brakes and clutch, clutch slave cylinder, new wheel cylinders for the rear brakes, it had a dry disk brake setup. New injector return lines as well because they were dry rotted…
One of the best small tractors you can ever have. Mine older model 7011 (11 or later 20/21 models no FWD ) had 10000 hours before the engine rebuild. It sips Fuel and Does whatever you need it to. Only Mod I did on Mine was Power steering Full Hydraulic. Never had any Mechanical malfunction. Only throttle linkage and a Hood Hinge that broke. Mine Had full German Cab top model Cab. Worker broke the Plastic Dash but that's not the tractor's fault. And I change rear Lights glass(plastic) because it will fade and become barely see trough from the sun. Later I changed the Work lights for LED just because of better Light But Kept the OG and sold them with the Tractor to my neighbor. Its still working it has 2K hours after the Engine and hydraulics rebuild. Gearbox is like new. Oh the Brakes are not Drum, they are Belt brakes. There's a belt that get tightened it's really strong, it will easily lock up rear wheels if your Brake lines and elements are good. And for cold starts since it has no glow plugs On the front of the Injection pump, behind the Air compressor, there's a small Button about 6mm. You lift the hand throttle and press that, it gives it extra fuel for the start. If the Hand throttle is not lifted enough it will not click in it will just return like the start button.
after a long standstill, the fuel pump may be stuck on the rail and you may have air in the fuel system. you need to bleed the injectors. loosen the overflow screws at the injectors and then use a hand pump at the pump to pump the fuel so that it comes out through the overflows, then tighten the screws and you have bled the fuel system.
My dad and I have a 4340 cab tractor. If you have a lot of cold weather plug in the block heater. It will help a lot. Also pump the primer hand pump about 4 times and it will usually fire right off. The brakes are behind the bull gear case assembly. They are extremely heavy. We have had a lot of problems with wheel cylinder leaks over the 15 years. The brakes never have been that great on hills. Make sure the park brake works for sure. Best of luck with it. We have a zetor brand loader on ours to for leading hay bales. They are a heavy built tractor but requires regular maintenance on certain areas.
only thin we have found with our 3340 is to always oil the front planetary gears almost every day or the axle bearing/bushing wears out very fast and will result in locking up or cracking the whole hub, but great tractors. and a high torque starter really helps starting in anything below 70 degrees
I have a 6211, 7711 and currently in the process of buying a 7745. all need some work but its a slow process to find time to work on. I grew up with Zetors on a dairy farm in England. I now live in the USA great tractors simple and easy enough to work on for the DIY farmer. Great video and I hope you get the brakes fixed as I need to do that to my 6211.
I bought my first brand new tractor in 96. It was a 3320 zetor, the only difference between the 3320 and 3340 is onecis 2 wheel drive and the other is 4 wheel drive. Chances are you will have to replace the master and slave cylinder on the clutch frequently, I had to replace them every two years, the brake shoes are aluminum and will seize on the pivot rods, the transmission was notorious for getting water in it, i never foind any way to keep it out and the three dealers i talked to said they didnt know how it was getting in either and to just keep changing the transmission fluid. I still have the 3320, it hasn't ran in ten years because the transmission and hydraulics finally gave out from the water. I never had and issues with the motor other than putting on an injection pump. My tractor has an estimated 15,000 hours, estimated because the meter quit at 2995.3. The original tires lasted the entire time, i just put new tires on a few years before i parked it. In the years that ive owned it the brakes have only worked for about 5 of those years, we rebuilt them once and that only lasted about a year. To add fluid to the transmission you get a tall funnel and then dump it through the steering wheel.
It appears that the cause of the problem was rainwater in the gearbox freezing, check the gear lever boots and keep it covered when not in use? Have you tried cracking the injector pipes, while cranking to bleed up to the injectors? It sounds like it is running on 1 cyl.
Seen many a tractor die because of this issue. Mid West Ohio, USA. Water, freezing temp and impatient people bad combo for a tractor that sits outside for extended periods of time.
Yes the hole is supposed to be there in the exhaust elbow. We had a 6211 dad bought brand new in 1988 for $10,000. Used it for 30yrs on the farm. It is parked now in the shed. About everything is wore out.
I had a Zetor for a lot of years until my son in law decided he could bush hog in the middle of summer with no coolant. My brakes never did work but that wasn't much of a problem in eastern South Carolina. The PTO clutch didn't work and the alternator didn't work. I still worked the devil out of that thing. Charged the battery once a week or so and engaged the PTO while throttling the tractor almost to a stop and then revving it back up. That tractor had a lot of character and worked like a beast. I think the model was 5247 but I'm not sure. Let my grandson take it to try to fix it so I'll probably never see it again.
We czechs give machines names. They work more efficiently, because the worker develops bond to the named thing and does maintenance properly. Girl or Guys names, in simple, home form. So for example not Johnathan, but Johny. Sometimes the name is painted on it, but it is decision of owner, not producer. Unlike Japanesse, we have no religious reason to do so.
If she has diesel and all air is out all the way to the injectors they normally start instantly no matter how cold the weather is, Brilliant little tractors I enjoy mine more than I enjoy my brand new tractor 👍🏻 check the rack at the pump
Be sure to oil the thrust bearing on the clutch with engine oil, two or three times a year. Look at the rubber seals close to the main brake pump. These Zetors rubberparts sometimes have a short life. Good luck with your Zetor.
Did you use nickel rod (or nickel/iron for welding steel to cast iron)? They kinda suck to weld but they stick to cast iron like glue and with sufficient peening in between the short passes they don't crack becaue the nickel is kinda malleable and stretches. Not healthy to breathe, though. Maybe normal rod will work, too, if lotsa peening…
If youve not already found it check the inside of those banjo fittings for trash in them, ive been through it before.and check the little fuel lines for age.
They are expensive but in this case brazing rods would be your best bet. While preheat is good you have to be very careful when doing it in place and putting that amount of heat in one small area of the casting. Brazing/silver soldering are done at a lower temperature but are nearly as strong and stronger if your welding is not perfect. Good option to have in the tool box. You can also get cast iron and cast steel rods but bring a big wallet! They will give you a much better job on cast material.
Personally from what I seen in the field is when welding cast iron does work long term, which isn't too often, the best way is to forget using rods of any sorts and use power spray with a utp puddle gun with oxy acetylene. It seems to work extremely well but not sure if he's set up for using that type of equipment
@@ronnieswindski825 All this being said, Brazing is a skill you need to learn. Not something that you can just magically do. Like most things metal work, it's harder than it looks to get right, especially laying on your back under a tractor... Same with a spray welder. It's a skill to master. for sure.
This was fun to watch man, then I seen you're from Spanishburg WV! Funny, I was raised up in Princeton, Bluewell, Glenwood area. Cool to see a southern West Virginian doing this kind of stuff on youtube.
Thanks Dave. Zetor used to get a bad rap for cab corrosion and general poor quality, but by the 90s they had improved and I think yours might be late 90s. You don't have a lot of hp to play with so to reduce driveline shock make sure the slipper on the scrub cutter isn't set up too harsh. 🤙
The qualitiy problem seems to be a regional problem. In most EU Staates and specialy in eastern EU staates Zetor have a realy good reputation and here the people says, the older ones bevor 1998 was the best they produced. ;)
@@Oldtimerfreund-JW good to hear an alternative experience. Maybe climate, maybe dealer support, maybe some folks just take care of them better than we do!😄
It will idle up and down til you correct oil levels in injector pump and regulator housing, its also a cold start button in front end of pump if equiped with it.
Hello, I'm from the Czech Republic, where there are thousands of these tractors in their own way, but none of them have the engine sound like yours, you must have something wrong. Otherwise, as others write, they are immortal tractors without excess electronics. Easy to service... if you have a parts supplier, which we have on every corner. Ideal machines for private individuals.
It is the later 3340 with fully hydrostatic steering, the Italian front axle, true live hydraulics and dry air cleaner. There is 2 different styles of drop boxes used for the 4wd. Google Ridgeway Zetor out of AR he has new parts and some units he has salvaged.
Dave,I've got two 6211 zetors,three 7711s and one 4320 b series neighbors probably talk about me. Only thing I don't like about them is that hand pto release. Oh,just to settle the neighbors down,I picked up a 4430 john deere.😊
It would always be good idea to fix the brakes, so you dont end up with a run away tractor and go thru a fence or hit something. Also doing all the leakes and hydrolic issues, are all important before you ruin something that could have been minor before the big problems come. looks like you should have a really nice tractor and hopefully a great price.
If the missing piece are just oil cover and not structural take a 3 millimeter copper plate bang it into shape dril hole screw it on with a homemade gasket easy
Man you did a great job preheating that piece before welding it but f**k remove that torch from the welding area, there is acetylene there, a welding spark can blow up you and your tractor!
nope a zetor from that era like ours no mater what you do they always will crank quite a bit be for they start because of the way the injection pump builds presser be for it sends fuel. and in most cases they are always just cold blooded.
@@wyattneese1173 i live in a cold climate and they really should not be cold blooded or hard to start try giving the hand fuelpump a few pumps before starting and always have throttle wide open while trying to start! There might also be also be a button on the front of the injection pump that gives it more fuel while starting up
😁 Hi , found this today. fantastic video . HOTSHOT SECRETE in the tank ? Ran on one then two but three is still not fire ing right . NO brakes ? ALLSTATES AG PARTS .. LIFT might be a stuck valve ...Gunk in hydro pump .GET a shop repair manual . thanks
I don't like to pick at people with their welding personally I think Tig would be a better option than stick. Would have use silicon bronze to make the repair. Add 3-4 at of atf in the fuel tank it will lube the internal of the p-pump as you work the tractor.
Wow sure cleaned up good! Have you any service manuals or such for the Zetor? If I remember correctly the two wheel drive model I was using to haul hay wagons with had a cork friction plate in the clutch. I was told to be easy on it. Sounded inconceivable to me but I was working an hourly
These tractors were the first to ever arrive to many countries in eastern block, as they were mass produced. It may not seem much, but numbers in hundrets thousands pieces produced are uncommon for a small country like czechoslovakia. In Iraq, the Zetor brand became a word for all tractors. Sadly the company bankrupted due to war in Iraq, and had to be restructured. If not for the economic downfall following the soviet union collapse, it would take the hit, but it was weakened by several years of economic decline. Now they produce small to medium tractors, but they are still far from exporting as many as during communism. John Deere would be half it´s size if they could.
Well if that housing was cast iron.the way you keep pouring the weld to it an not peening the hell out of it an keeping it wrapped tight with a welding blanket you would have totally shattered glass so to put it. Being it didnt soap cracks pop after your first long weld. With out putting a grinder to it an seeing sparks id say it is cast steel an that you just weld up with 7018 or 8018. If you put a grinder to it an you see very tiny fine spark it a good cast iron. If no sparks its a poor sand cast iron. Welding cast iron you use a small 95% Nickel welding rod. $350 CND PER LB. you only weld 1/2 to 3/4" long weld an well weld is still red hot you peen the hell out of the weld. Not ur love taps But before you weld cast iron you strip the guts out of the housing clean it good bake in home made welders over until its 400deg. Then wrap as much of it as you can in heavy welding blankets to keep it hot well doing only 1/2" to 3/4" long welds an very fast peen the hell out of the red hot weld to stretch it. Do another 1/2" weld peen the living hell out of it. Repeat slowly until done. Wrap tight with no air openings an let slowly cool. 10 to 12 hours. Short of that you will have a casting loaded with spider cracks. Big time. Never put a grinder to a cast iron weld or housing were you weld . The crap from grinding disk imbeds into the cast iron an make pin holes
