Had to put together another rotisserie for this C10 cab since I cut up the last one. #c10, #chevy truck, #rotisserie Music Credit: Jump The Fence by V.V. Campos
For me and my 1967 C10. This is a keeper. I do understand the reason for not giving measurements as each are slightly different and avoiding liability issues. I do enjoy the humor edited into this build and have watched it 4-5 times. Thanks.
I have no clue who posted that stupid comment but it got erased! Grandpa said "Their is an ass for ever seat" he was right. Maybe they are jealous I became an ASE Master, with having to go to tech school. Ron White is correct when he said you can't fix stupid! Jim, you did an excellent job with design and safety measures for those of us who can weld. I bought my 150 Amp MIG in 1984, before the jerk who hi-jacked my post made his comment from his moms basement or what he calls a man cave. It appears that the larger tubing is 1/4" wall while the smaller tubing is what, 3/16"? Either way, after back surgery #7, I will be cutting, notching and welding something very similar. I know you don't get the time to read every post but after watching another 7-9 times, I looked at comments and couldn't believe what I was seeing. You should have 100k followers by know and wish the best in 2022 and beyond. You build on the "Show Truck" has reached others. A channel called "That Shop Teacher Guy" built an 65? C10 and his next to last video, he pointed out seeing a RU-vid video where a guy was using paint sticks during sanding, he like it because of the control he had finding high and low spots. I agree, but knew who's video he saw, yours. Body work is hard & I don't have to tell you that, but the tips, tricks, product and chemistry has change so much. It is now a must to keep up to date. It is kinda sad how expensive PPG products have reached. $2,700 - $3,200 dollars in product before getting out the door is crazy. And trucks have so much more square footage to cover plus the labor. Sad the work between the cab and be won't even be seen. Have a good day and stay safe! DK, Retired
Excellent...I've been considering building something like this...still gotta get my welder hooked up, but it won't be long...once I have the ability to weld, my project will be ready for the next level...almost ready to paint my frame & suspension...but I've got just a little bit more fit up & a little bit of welding to do & I'll be ready to paint my frame & suspension & I'll be able to do final assembly for rolling chassis...can't wait...good job on the design of your rotisserie...gives me some good ideas...new sub!
Fantastic ... thanks for the ideas ... ive never welded but got a brand new Miller 211 .. think this will be a great project to break it in with for my 78 square retro mod project... You make my knees hurt watching you kneel down without pads though 😬
Yeah. A large welding table is on the wish list. Keep saying I’m going to get one so I’m not crawling around on the concrete all the time. That 211 should definitely do the trick. Good luck on your project and thanks for watching!
Yeah, I can't weld all that good, and my $100. Harbor freight welder isn't the greatest, so I might have to pass on the rotisserie. I think frame on restoration will work for what I have in mind. Awesome work as usual 👍👍👍
Thanks. Yeah it’s not a necessity. I’ve painted several interiors, roof and all, without using a rotisserie. The non vented pps cups make it a lot easier to paint with the gun upside down too.
@@StoutCustom that's a good tip. I'm just starting to get in to painting - Buying equipment as I go. Just wired my shop for 220, and looking to get a bigger compressor. It never ends... lol
Great job on rotisserie….based on your dimensions, what is the highest point in ft/in for allowance to swing 360 in your garage? Also what steel size( dimensions) used for bed to mount to? Also I assume you used existing cab holes for frame mount… is that right? What is the offset height dimension for brackets for rear rail bed mount?
So…I did use existing holes to mount the cab but…I don’t have the rotisserie to available to measure any of the other dimensions you asked for. If it was here I would measure it but it’s in storage at the moment. Thanks for watching!
Hello, thanks for your videos, they are really educational and help a lot. I am tearing into my 1966 GMC C10, and about to take the cab off. I am also planning to make a rotisserie. I noticed that you didn’t do any internal bracing of the cab before removing it and putting on the rotisserie. Did you have any problems when putting back together? Any twisting or other movement that made getting the body gaps right, because there was no bracing? I would like to try without bracing. Finally, can you give me a rough idea of how tall you made the vertical arm on the rotisserie cradle to have things balanced without the need of it being adjustable? Thanks for your help.
On this c10 all the metal work was done(rockers, cab corners, etc) before I started the bodywork so the cab had enough strength that it didn’t need bracing. If I was going to replace rockers, or anything structural, or if it had a lot of rot, I would have braced it for sure. All the panels went back in place no problem. I measured from center of the pivot point to the horizontal piece that the cab sets on and it was 18 inches. I’m not sure how the balance will be on a 66 since they are quite a bit different. Thanks for watching!
How tall does the inside of your garage need to be to be able to make the cab rotate all the way around .. im.redoing a crew cab squarebody floor needs a lot of attention I'm going to be useing the bottom section of cab frame for the top part just need to know how tall the center has to be .. h Do you split the distance of the over all height of cab to find perfect center where do you start
I didn't pay too much attention to mine when I built it. I had pretty tall ceilings so It wasn't a concern. If your space is limited, I would measure across the widest part of the vehicle (probably across the firewall from door to door or drip rail to opposite side rocker panel) and see what the measurement is. Then measure floor to ceiling and see if there is enough room. Sometimes I like to get a more visual reference so I may cut a 2x4 to the widest measurement then stand it vertically so I can see how much clearance I have. Keep in mind each end of the rotisserie needs to be connected together for stability so if there is a cross bar, you will have to clear that as well. You may just want to buy a rotisserie that is adjustable and on wheels. Then you can roll it outside to flip over then back in to work on. Good luck on your truck.
Finding the center of weight is a trial and error thing. Thats why the professional built ones are adjustable. I got lucky with mine because I knew "about" where the center was from cabs I have done in the past. BE CAREFUL! If the weight is not centered it can turn uncontrollably and damage the cab or Kill You! Again I say you may want to buy a professional built model and still, have plenty of help when you mount the cab and try to turn it.
Well cut off my legs and call me stumpy. That's pretty sweet. That should make working the inside much easier. Are you going to paint the whole cab or just the inside of the cab on the ole rotater?
I try to get the metal covered during the priming/bodywork process for corrosion protection. Either brush something on or use a pray can with a bent straw. Then just paint the best I can.
good job ! from what i can see of your welds, you dont have any worries. Im a retired pipe fitter / welder, and now i fabricate some pretty wild stuff, and i love what im doing. what I was wandering, is where are you located? keep up the good work!
good job. I BUILT ONE ABOUT 15 YRS AGO BUT I PUT 2 PLATES ON ONE END DRILLED HOLES SO I CAN INDEX IT AT DIFFERENT POINTS SO WHEN I'M WORKING ON IT THERES NO MOVEMENT. I BUILT IT FOR A 41 CHEVY 2 DOOR SEDAN, RIGHT NOW I HAVE A 92 CHEVY CAB ON IT REPLACING CAB CORNERS AND ROCKERS. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
It was really just luck and a good guestimate. I had taken a 69 cab off before using an engine hoist attatched to four points inside the cab at each corner with the end of the hoist inside the cab. It was super sketchy and made me realize how much weight was up high in the cab. I had also built a rotisserie for my 86 c10 cab so having done all that..I guessed, lol. Thanks for watching!
@@StoutCustom my uncle has done fabrication work for over 30 years and you have given me the best idea to get my 81 k10 done. I spoke with him about it today and asked if I could ask you for a rough estimate to get the balance right.. it will just be a trial and error.
@@ColbyHyman most rotisseries are built with an adjustable vertical support bar so you can get the balance right. That would be the best way to go. You can look way back maybe the 4th video I ever made “project c10 painting the inside of the cab”, and get an idea of where the pivot point was on that square body cab. It was pretty close to just right.
Very nice. I have a 72 c10 project on the go and have been debating building a rotisserie. After seeing this I’m building one for sure! Mind if I ask how you determined your rotation point?
It was really just a best guess type thing. I’ve mounted a couple different cabs on a rotisserie before so I had a decent idea of where it needed to be. Ideally it would be made adjustable to find the perfect center but I opted for guestimation as usual, lol.
