C10 Show Truck Project: Painting the Outside of the Cab. 

@@bruceprosser4283 Thanks Bruce! It’s good to know there are folks out there that get something out of these videos. Thanks for watching and best of luck on your GMC!

Thanks JC and thanks for watching!

Thanks man!

It's definitely a learning experience if you have patience and time. Cuz it's nothing you can learn fast. I grew up in a body shop. Went to school for it. Take your time and don't rush nothing.

Thank you!

Thanks PD and thanks for watching!

Thanks DR. I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!

Oh they don’t scare me….😬 lol

Thanks Torsten. It turned out really nice.

Lol. Thanks!

Thank you and welcome!

I started in the mid to late 80’s painting lacquer. No booth required just paint them out on the floor and buff to a clean shinny finish. Many moons ago, lol. Thanks for watching!

Thanks 👍

Thank you Manolo!

Cool! Thanks!

Hey Alan, thanks for watching and I’m glad you like the channel!

Thanks man and thanks for watching!

I really like waterborne and spray it the majority of the time. Takes a minute to get use to but once you do, most never want to go back to solvent. Thanks and thanks for watching!

For a split second it was like virtual reality! That sucker was on me! Lol.

Thanks for the sub!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Yeah fish eyes can come from a million different things but this is a common cause. Good luck next go round and thanks for watching!

thank you and thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Haha. Yeah he’s actually extremely happy with the results thus far.

@@StoutCustom I forgot to ask a couple videos ago. Either I missed it or you didn't film it but what did you use to spray with under the cab? the black section that is.

@@tcollier4017 it was already done when the truck was brought to me. It’s USC Defender Pro Bed Liner.

Thank you!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Ling gd

Looking good

Excuse sloppy you love you much

Thank you!

good to hear! Thanks for watching and good luck on the Dodge!

Thank you!

Lol. Will do!

Those should keep you busy for a bit.

Thank you and thanks for watching!

I used one on my square body cab. It really worked well. 👍

Hey Iriam. Thanks for subscribing and thanks for watching. I’m in North Georgia.

I’m a Tech Rep for a local paint supplier.

@@StoutCustom ah explains a lot. I know you said somewhere that collision was in your family also. I’ve been in collision since the early 80s and was an Instructor for 16yrs. Nice job on the truck and I still want to see it in person when you finish.

Yeah that’s a tough area. No good tricks for it just have to keep at it till you get what you want. Aggravating.

Harbor freight has guns starting about 17 bucks up to a couple hundred for their black widow. You can use one gun for all of it if you want but I really like a separate primer gun. 3M also has a gun that uses different tips on the same gun for different materials. I’ve heard good things about it. I think it’s called an accuspray kit.

Just let it fly and wipe it off, lol

Thanks. Yes. The plastic is specifically made for automotive painting. It is coated on one side so that overspray WILL stick to it. If you paint with the wrong side out, the base coat will flake off into a million pieces when you hit it with air during the clearing process. It’s available in different widths to accommodate different size cars or larger trucks, vans, etc. I think I used 3M 6728 overspray protective sheeting on this cab. I usually wait overnight or until after a bake cycle if painting in a baking booth. It’s just best to let the clear set up completely before unmasking. Thanks for watching!

It’s all still in the 5 gal bucket. It has a small spout so it’s actually easy to pour. Glad you like the videos and thanks for watching!

I’m glad you find the info helpful. As far as the petroleum based cleaner, Shopline JX 101 or PPG One Choice SX330 either one. Yes, I usually start at the top and work my way down in a downdraft booth. If it’s a cross flow I still start at the top but also do the side facing the air coming IN first and end on the side the air is exiting. I guess you could say “paint over your overspray, don’t overspray your paint”. Hope that makes sense. The bottom has already been coated with USC Defender Pro Bed Liner. As always Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the information. I also noticed you sprayed a sealer before laying color; is that because first primer coats were epoxy and then high build primers sprayed on top of that needed sealing?

@@jdurhamify there was nothing that “required”me to use sealer. All the products used are compatible and I could have just started laying on color. There was no reason to use the sealer as an isolator or transition between layers. The main reasons I used sealer were for its enhancement of adhesion, overall durability, and to make everything the exact same undercoat color before applying the actual color. Base coat alone can adhere very well to a properly sanded surface. Sealer makes that bond even better. A part that has sealer tends to rock chip less than a part without so it adds durability. I’m painting this truck piece by piece also. So to help ensure color match, sealer will enable me to get every piece to the exact same starting point or color before applying the actual color. Hope this helps.

That is helpful and thanks for explaining!

Thanks. Sata 4000 hvlp for the base and Iwata WS400 super nova for the clear.

Thanks. It’s GM code 50 I believe.

It can really go either way. Painter’s preference. With base/clear jobs I usually do one coat of the main color first just to get paint on over all the sealer. Some sealers can be touchy if left too long before you put color on. Then I paint the secondary color where needed, let dry, and mask off. Then I go back all over with the main color until it’s covered. Unmask the secondary color and clear it all. If I were doing black and silver or any metallic, I would rather spray the black last. There’s no rule that says you have to but a tiny amount of black overspray on the silver is not going to show while a tiny amount of metallic flake on top of black will stick out like a sore thumb. Oh, and if you use the same gun for the silver and black, be absolutely sure all the silver metallic is cleaned out of the gun before using it to spray the black. I’ve messed that up a time or two.

Yes. I would definitely do the white first. The white is less to have to mask off when the red is sprayed. Much easier that way. Thanks for watching!

Exactly! I was staring at the screen trying to figure out what was moving in the scene with me. When my mind registered wasp...I was already gone!

Thank you!

It’s Volkswagen’s Denim Blue. It’s nice!

They are actually formulated for different applications. The blue painters tape is more for latex based house paint and sticking to drywall without leaving a residue and the yellow is designed to resist automotive solvent base products while sticking to the panels but not leaving a residue when removed. So each is designed to be ideal for the intended use. Using the wrong one may work but also may present issues.

It was the customers choice. Either would be fine.

PPG’s SX330 or JX101. Thanks for watching!

Great question. It really depends on the environment and product used as to how long to wait. It just has to be completely dry. In a heated booth I may run up the heat and wait as little as 30 minutes or let it air dry overnight before I tape on it. With this one it was late when I finally got the white on so I decided to just come back the next morning to continue. Base coat also has a clear coat window meaning once it is sprayed, the clear must be applied within a certain amount of time or it will not adhere as well. That has to be kept in mind too. As far as the color, the customer picked out the blue he wanted along with several different whites. I sprayed them all out on spray out cards then he chose the combination he liked best.

I can find a gear when I need it, lol

Although not required, sealer makes a better paint job in my opinion. Easier color coverage with fewer coats, better adhesion, and better overall durability.

Thank you and thanks for watching! My email is in the channel description but I don’t have a shop to work out of at the moment. Just trying to finish up this 67 and figure out the next move from there.

The owner is still putting it together. I will try to make a video once it’s done. Thanks for watching!

You’re very welcome my friend you do excellent job and I like to watch! By the way Do you have a name and paint code for the blue?

@@danielviorato1333 Denim Blue from Volkswagen. LP5F

Thank you very much!

@@StoutCustom that’s is The same color of the square body?

Solid. Denim Blue from Volkswagen

On this one the owner had already sprayed on a bedliner coating.

I charged the same thing I always do….never enough, lol. Thanks for watching!

Yeah, there are several versions of it. PPG DX101 Final Scuff or Presta Scuff Stuff are a couple. You use it in conjunction with a scotchbrite. It has a bit of grit to it and a little detergent to scuff and clean the surface really well before painting. Works great.

VW Denim blue and GM code 50 white

I believe it’s a VW color called Denim Blue. The plastic is not self stick. I had already backtaped the window frames so the sticky side of the tape was facing outward making it easy for the plastic to adhere to.

That color.....beautiful!

It’s a late model Volkswagen color. I can’t remember the code at the moment. It’s a solid color.

I’m in north Georgia

I really don’t do anything to protect it. I just let the overspray fly and wipe the phone off with thinner if it needs it.

Everything I’ve ordered so far has come from Auto Metal Direct. Hoods, radiator support, rockers and cab corners. All fit well. One cab corner was a little off but still managed to make it work. If they have a premium option it’s worth the extra $. Lots of parts I haven’t tried but I would always start with AMD.

@@StoutCustom Ok. My 1st time restoring a 70 C10. I have questions on bed bolt kits, and few other details.

I still have not received an email but I will keep watching for it to show up.

In my experience I know of hardly any painters that use Iwata for base and SATA for clear. Most of the time they use Iwata for both or SATA for base and Iwata for clear. Once you get use to an Iwata for clear the SATA just doesn’t atomize quite enough. Also the guys using a lph400 or w400 usually prefer those guns over the newer style ws400 super nova. I guess they are use to the feel of them and don’t see much of a performance difference so figure “why change”. Try them all if you can.