Thank you so much for this video. I recently replaced a Power Steering Control Valve and once I was done, the car was steering to the right. Your explanation resolved my issue. Thanks again!
Awesome video and information. Saved my A! I had a leak on the control valve and thought to tighten everything I found loose, including a turn on the adjustment nut. Damm! I was ready for NASCAR turning left like crazy. And here is the answer.
This info saved me hours, works just like video showed, on mine the rod came all the way out so it took several turns on adjustment nut to get it to move inward ,did final adjustment and works perfect
great video got me some steering problems and now i have a few more things to check before bumping cash into it.. also the sarcastic humor is a nice touch.
I have installed 3 valves so far (new, not remans) on a 68 small block, stick shift, manual brake car. Everything in the power steering system is new including the pump. We rebuild the entire front end with all new parts including the A Arms themselves, bushings even new hardware etc...Only the tie rods (inner & outer) the center link etc are older but nice and tight. The first two control valves, out of the box, did move out when the engine was on with the ram disconnected from the frame. So I performed the balance procedure to get zero movement with the engine on and I could manually move the ram in and out easily. Balanced right? SOOO the problem we have is all three valves will pull the steering wheeel out of your hand when you turn the wheel to the full counter clockwise position. Have to shut the car off to release it. With the first two new valves I tried adjusting the nut in several combinations (ram extending and retracting) assembled and road tested with same results the CCW position locks hydraulically. Valve #2 leaked from behind the adjusting nut so that one went back. Valve #3 I figured I would install it out of the box not checking for balance. With car on the lift the wheels dont move. But the hydrolock in the CCW position persists? Any clue as to whats causing this? Over pressure from the new pump? Geometry off on the sterring linkage? Is the lock to lock in the steer gear(box) bad allowing an over steer condition? We do see tire to frame contact on the drivers side at full CCW position. The box is original OEM. It had a complete 4 wheel alignmnet done from a noted vette expert. It drives like a new car except fot this locking problem. Any insite?
Great explaining! I follow up and everything was clear and simple. Now the steering is working but I notice when driving, I turn and I leave the steering wheel it remains turned. It should turn back straight, right?
Thank you, very clear and simple. I have only a question: When I find the neutral position of the slave cylinder shaft, it's not so easy to move with fingers. What do you think?
I replaced my slave cylinder last night, everything went pretty good until I noticed a gap between the cylinder rear mounting nut that goes thru the steering relay rod. It's about 1/8" gap which explains why it was hard to fit the cotter pin thru the safety nut. I'm positive this should fit flush against the relay rod and rubber grommet. I tried smacking it with a lead hammer but it doesn't go thru any further and can't get a direct hit due to the grease fitting in the center. Any ideas?
Can the control valve be adjusted without jacking up the car? Or with the car on wheel stands? Im concerned about having the linkage disconnected when their is weight on the front suspension.
Top video! You give clear and easy to follow directions. Fantastic! I’m looking at a 1978 C3 Pace Car with very low milage (6-7000). It even has the plastic covers for the carpets in place. The only issue is a minor servo oil leak. Not specified where it comes from. Old cars with very low milage can dry up, seals, O rings, gaskets and whatnot. If you would hazard a guess, what would you point at when it comes to this leak?
I have no way to guess from that description what may be leaking, but you are spot-on about the cork gaskets leaking from age--plan on doing a full engine re-seal if you are going to drive the car regularly. Lyle
Great video. Is it true that these valves have to be replaced very often, since they always leak again? Also, where can I get one of those valves or another top quality one? Lonestar C website is only wholesale.. Thanks!
Was a good video but I have a question! I’m working on a 67 Chevy C20 pickup that uses the same exact setup. The manual states that to remove the control valve from the drag link to spin it clockwise to the right to remove it. Have been spinning for a while and making no progress. Following the manual doesn’t appear to work and I noticed in your clip that you had started to thread it on to the right. Am I wrong following the manual?
Hi Wayne. All Corvette PSCV's are Right-Hand Thread. I am unsure about the set-up on your C20, but if you contact Lonestar Caliper in Conroe, TX I 'm certain that they will have the answer for you. Lyle
So, if the wheels tend to move right after you're done - can you just tweak the adjustment nut without removing the "slave cylinder"? Just to get it neutralized.
Let me add that when you are using the forked pry bar, it may take a bit of force. I had to use a 5 foot long bar over the pickle fork and put all of my body weight to bust it free. After that it was a breeze.
Bleed the Slave Cylinder by disconnecting lines and push and pull the piston rod until empty. Or drive it for about 5 miles on highway. Keep both hands tightly on the steering wheel when it kicks in car will pull hard to left. (Very Dangerous) After it begins to pull to the left take it home and follow the procedure.
I replaced the control valve and cylinder on my 78. I believe its adjusted properly. Sometimes when I hit a bump, the steering shakes uncontrollably. So bad i need to pull over and stop the car. I was told there may be air in the system. Any help would be great.
Problem could be excessive play in any of the steering components such as steering box, rag joint, drag link, or idler arm. Be sure that gear bos and idler arm bolts are tight. It could be a defective valve, but check all the other items as well. Hope this helps.
Rebuild Kits are available, but we have the option to rebuild as a professional shop and we DO NOT choose to do so. I like buying done units with someone else's warranty attached to them. :) Lyle
Just did my 63 impala but once i did my adjustments and hooked the slave cylinder back in the bracket . Turned Engine back on the steering wheel started spinning out of control?! What did I do wrong?
Thank you so much for this perfect explanation! I am writing from from Germany so my english is not so good. I did the adjustment exactly as described and the steering works perfect but the Steering Control Valve is getting very hot. After 30 Minutes of driving it has 210 °F. Is this normal and if not what could be the reason?
@@csvette Thanks, here more Information for you. Yr. 1979, Cylinder, Valve, Pump and Hoses new. Adjustment as described, Temperature at valve about 210 °F.
I think is an old video but, my friends 80s vette dosnt leak, everything looks good but the steering is hard like no power steering attached in to.. whats causing that, regulator?
Thanks a lot man. My friends corvette have no leaks but got that issue, my vette is 78 ,steering is nice but is leaking somewhere under.. thanks for that quick respond.
Great video. I'd just like to add one important safety tip. NEVER put your arm threw the steering wheel when starting the car! If the valve is not adjusted correctly it could spin the steering wheel and break your arm! Ask me how I know............
Just like its not a good idea to steer one by standing outside the car when pushing it! The rear wheel is so close to the door that it will run over your foot!
fkawione.... Great advice! Once doing this job the steering wheel spun so fast and powerfully it was amazing. I was so happy my arm or hand wasn't in the wheel. I had my hands on the steering wheel as if I was driving, as the wheel spun and there was no way to stop it from spinning. BEWARE !!
Hey guys, I just bought a C-3 1980 ,ever since I parked it out front I noticed a big fluid spot just below the front left lower swing arm,I smeared my fingers in it and it smells like power steering fluid, but just about every 2 to 3 weeks I check the power steering resevior and its completely empty,or close to it, do you think its a bad line or is it a much bigger problem ? overall the car is a 7 or 8 from 1 to 10 and of course 10 being the best, it has a stock 350 blue block ,with would you believe this the odometer showing 33,021 miles the interior is very nice with a claret with a black exterior,very attractive car,but this leaking problem is driving me crazy,im open to any suggestions as to what to try to get her repaired,its a shame to see it just sitting there day after day, anyone have some idea,s I have some mechanical experience,and some tools, just not enough know how,thanks for any and all advice, Willie, new C-3 owner, 4-10-2018
Could be a number of things...first suspects would be hoses and/or pump. best bet is to clean the area thoroughly and then wait to see where you are leaking..
sounds like a good idea, understood, once the entire area is clear, I should be able to spot where the leak is coming from, ill give that a try, thanks for the tip, L.A. always appreciate any suggestions or idea,s any thoughts on why my head lights don't come on, but every other light in the car stays on, even after I cut the engine, what could be going on there ?
@@Diamond_Fever Because one loop is larger than the other and they nest together in the smallest space possible to avoid coming into contact with anything else as the steering system moves back and forth.
