did the measuring, C-14/24 is right about a 1/13.5 scale, hood width (not counting fender flares) is 4-1/4", at 1/12 it'd be 4-3/4", as the full size are just under 5ft wide. it'd be great if they redid C-14/24 at 1/12, with an opening hood for battery placement! at 1/12 the tires would be right at the fender flare width, more real looking. the B-1 is lots closer to being a 1/18 scale, 1/20 scale figures are a little too small to look right. my favorite style for crawl/climb is still definitely the C-14, with hood modded to open for battery weight forward and longer shock shafts for flex, it has the better entry/exit angles to not get snagged on stuff. eBay... M3 cap screws, half threaded, 50 mm length. cut excess threads off leaving 5/16, carefully grind+polish the caps down to fit inside the shock bodies, gain 5-6 mm of negative suspension travel at the shock means 8-9 mm more at the outside of tire, and about 3/4" more total twist/flex end to end... is a lot on these little things! you get 10 of them for 3-4 bucks, so an order of 2 is enough to mod 5 of the C chassis trucks stock shocks. they're 3 mm not 4 mm, so you'll have to CA them into the shock bottoms to stay put. no worries, you can still un-thread them to take apart if/when needed. the 1 mm smaller shaft diameter does let them be a little sloppier to flex easier too. yes last C-14 I picked up (for my local buddy) came with all brass bevel gears, and did have to shim the input cover for one being too darn tight on the mesh. sticky back foam sheet from the dollar store was pretty easy/convenient for that. if you want the gears REALLY smooth, "Clover compound".. stinky grease with 5 and 10 micron diamond particles in it, or automotive valve lapping compound, fill the "diffs" and spin them with a drill both directions will make them mate really good. have yet to see a ring gear for these that is perfectly flat not a little wobbly, turn the input and every 2.3 turns (the ratio) there's always a tight notchy spot in them.
if they'd do C-14/24 body 1/2" wider, and total 1/2" taller, it'd give the 5/16" extra under the hood, then shorten the soft tray a little = room for battery up there. the wheelbase length could stay same and still look "right enough" I'd think. from window down that 5/16" taller (fenders and truck bed too) and 3/16" taller cab. the bed itself 1/2" wider and the very back part add about 3/8" length to not look awkward... wish I could write in Chinese sometimes, LMAO :) would NOT be the easiest project for the mold making, means changing the windshield, the interior, the bed, the gang-box, the grill and more! (been a machinist, I know some stuff) really liking the "monstered" B-1 with the C-frame suspension under it and the stock MN-D90 tires, total "fun with Lego's" stuff but did have to play with some aluminum to extend rear body mounts and custom plastic forward truck bed mount. same kinda chop shop fun to make B-1 framed C-24 "WPL drift truck". had to cut about 3/8" off the front of the B-1 frame same for front tray then trim down to fit it inverted, with the servo slot cut off and moved topside in it so the front axle had room for suspension being mounted topside of the leaf springs. for sure you CAN do all kinda crazy with these, the saw blade for large X-acto handle is a must! perfect for making the hood open too, really thin cuts.
Great video bud love the size comparison. I respectfully disagree about the c14 & c24 looking to small . If you think of it as a late 70's early 80's Toyota pu vs a real Toyota fj 45 ,fj40, defender d90. The Toyota pickups would look smaller. Just my 2 cents worth . Anyway you cut it they are all very cool and lots of fun. Thanks for the great video looking forward to more .
Great video mutt. All and all its for the beginner the tinkerers and well worth the price to get into the rc world or training the younger rc gen keep up the great videos i love the mods you do and how you show people your ideas
That Fj40 is so sweet!! I’m not really into the Rc world but the moment I saw that little Land Cruiser I just had to get it and I bought one I’m waiting for it to arrive! May be because I’m a sucker for the old Fj40 and I can’t afford a real one... Yet
I love my yotas! And yes they sure are worth a pretty penny now a days. It's good to have as a model as well. The details are pretty good. All I have to figure out is how to fab a roll cage for the back lole the original.
I love your videos! You and Tomley inspired me to get my C34. Thanks. When you say the RTR tire is perfect for the C34 rim do you mean the military trucks or the C24? Or are they all the same? I can't buy those tires separately I assume. What should I be looking for on ebay just replacement C24 tires? I freaking hate gluing tires to the rim. I can never get it perfect.
It's the RTR tires from most the trucks they have. Not the b36 and B24zh as they have different thread patterns. You can purchase the tires separately on banggood. You can get the RTR, kit and even the newer c34 rims and tires on there.
Thank you for this man... I want to build my own rc and I've been doing research all day these past few weeks to what scale would be best for me and if looks like wpl and mn have similar sizes the wpl is only a little bit shorter in axles... What is the best metal kit version/upgrades in terms of quality is it the wpl or mn?
Yes! build one! It's the best way to know your RC in and out. I like the WPL stuff but have no experience with the full metal mn stuff. I heard they are about the same quality.
I would but I don't own the c34k anymore. It was the prize I sent to a subscriber on my first giveaway. The wpl c34k and mn45 are close in spec. Both have plastic driveshafts and plastic gearboxes with 180 motor. The c34km is in a whole different level. A lot of metal upgrades already included and a 370 motor with a all metal geared gearbox and metal driveshafts. Those are the major differences. I can only recommend the C34KM. The other two would need a lot of upgrades and will cost you more than the C34KM with more metal parts standard.
Hi! Thanks for this cool comparison video! I was wondering will the C34 (Toyota FJ)body fit on the chassis of the c 14 (Toyota pickup chassis)? Thanks!
@@RunThatRC Thanks for the quick reply and info! I was deciding on getting a FMS Jimny, WPL c34 or a d42 and was leaning toward the d42 and then thinking I could just get the C34 body as I have a c14 and thinking of a body swap but from your info I’ll justhold off on the body swap. Might get the d42 and try to make opening doors. See what happens. Thanks for the help!
My c14 was bought as a kit april this year. and it came with metal ring and pinion. dont like the stock tires to soft, after i swaped to mn 90 tires. WOW!!!
Great Video!!! Thanks For Sharing..I love the FJ 4O Pick up body. That one should have been all metal. I hope you can fit that body on the other chassis. I'm sure you can. You know a lot about these trucks. I'm still confused as to who makes what.I thought the two FJ'S are made by the same company. I just want the body. The FJ Pic up and the defender body. They are selling the defender body now. I hope they sell just the FJ Pic up body too. If you get a chance. Can you tell me what the wheelbase is for the Defender and the FJ Pic up.Thanks.. Love your channel!! I think it's gonna get huge.!! Good Luck!!
Thanks for the support! The d90 is about 193mm long from center of wheel to center of wheel and about 160mm wide from end if tires. The mn45 is as wide and about 195mm long from center of wheels.
I bought my c34km thinking I wouldn't upgrade it but like always I'm buying upgrades for it I got some metal axle trusses coming and steel ring and pinion gears for it the brass ones just ain't good for longevity
I have yet to strip any of my brass colored gears cross fingers. I think they may not be made of brass. Maybe copper? The axle truss is a good upgrade in my opinion. We will always want upgrades! lol
Can I buy an all metal drive axles that AliExpress says is for mn99s and run on a C24? I can't find affordable options for the C24. Except for just buy the metal ring and pinion kit and steering cups. However I am sort of intrigued to possibly order the new c24 portal axles
the mn axles have a different mounting location and may not work with wpls. I dont have experience with the portals but they look interesting and should improve performance.
The axles on the MN Models are wider than the WPL axles right? Suspension mounting holes are spaced further apart too. Thanks for all you do, I look forward to your reply.
Hey man was wondering if you could help me out and let me know if the C24 body fits on the MN90 frame? Thanks for any help have a C24 but like the MN 90 metal kits with portal axels.
WPL need to update the c34 body for more details. MN version of FJ body looks better in comparison. Btw, what you recommend if I want to get one of the WPL C series? between 14,24,24-1,34,44,54 ..whats the newest/more advanced or has updated spec?
you can get most the WPLs in KM versions now I believe. The C54 kit is now out but not sure if its a KM version. Newest body is the C54 but they are all specd the same with the C34 and 44 being on a different style chassis rails but similar drivetrain and build.
just got the motor in the mail. the metal 370 brushed and wont spin by hand. is that normal? also kinda bummed cause it has some areas that have been scratched:/
I do not know of a direct fit oil shock but I see people mod shocks onto it in different locations. I am about to see if the mn45 fits the c34 chassis and I'm sure if that does the land rover should as well.
Could you please tell me where I can get open lock differential for MN45 FJ car scale 1/12... Thanks a lot ... I was told axle length is not compatible with WPL 1/16
What Transmitter/ Receivers do you use with these? I’m very interested in the kits but they don’t come with a radio. What battery & charger do you use?
I have been using flysky transmitters(gt3B and C. I have a video on a hobbyporter hp-007 transmitter I have been testing that's been pretty impressive so far.
when I swapped to brushless the original pinion would not fit the new BL motor shaft so I had to find the smallest pinion I had and hoped the gear pitch was the same. Unfortunately I don't remember exactly but I think its one tooth up from stock with a bl installed on the WPL 2 speed gearbox. I may have mentioned the tooth couth in the vid but now sure. Thanks for stopping by!
Hi, thanks for the review, great info. You mentioned you can put the c24 bridge and axles on an mn 90? Any mods to make it work if it does not?. I have an MN 99s and i ordered metal bridge and axles for a c24😳. Im hoping i can make it work. Thanks
I upgraded a d90 with wpl metal gears and reused the mn metal axle shafts and axles. jist wpl internals. I haven't fitted a whole WPL metal axle on to a mn model. I have swapped bodies before and that was easier than moddung the d90 axles.
sir,would you let me know what kind the MN45 tire that you use?my mn45 using C34 tire but i think it is still too small...is it soft like C34 standard tire? thanks before
@@RunThatRC what the MN model? i think its from WPL truck stock...the MN45 stock is lil bit fatty like donat.my mn45 concept still using standard tire like C34.in your video,your MN45 its lookin good with that tire..
The wheels are 5mm hexes. So any wheels with that hex size will work. The mn model rims work and all the wpl truck rims work on them all. Hope that helps!
@@RunThatRC I have to use a translator on the internet because I don't know English, that's the only way to understand what they answer ... greetings from Chile!
