I now have a Foxeer Wildfire module and can confirm that it has the same issue as my URUAV RX5808 Evo using the AV Input. But of course it looks great with this AV2HDMI adapter!
@@TheEquinoxe62 av input won't work at all for the following modules: foxeer wildfire, Speedybee, Uruav Rx5808 Evo. Just shows snow or possibly glimpses of distorted image. It's fine for most other modules, especially if it's just a simple diversity module.
@@Tokyo_Domi have a steadyview skyzone receiver, without scroll wheel. I need one to swap channels, any clue on how I should go about this? I have an adapter already (av in) Great video.
Nice 👍. I did the same thing when upgrading my Ev800D:s to a nice crisp full HD OLED screen. There’s no need for expensive goggles now, unless you like the form factor :) I recommend getting rid of the RCA connectors though and I’m pretty sure the pcb can be trimmed off to make it even smaller. Then you could probably print one case for the whole package.
Oh nice, oled box goggles! Though I much prefer binocular goggles now, I tried going back to box goggles when the cobra X came out and I couldn't get an immersed feeling.... But your other suggestions are great. I had considered that path but started thinking I'd spend too much time designing and printing when i just wanted to try my solution. I think that might be where I go for the version two of this adapter!
@@Tokyo_Dom yeah I can’t afford fancy goggles :( And those micro oleds in there seem to be the problem, expensive. I’m the opposite though, I did get to try a pair of hdzero and although the picture quality was way better than analog I found it more like watching a tv in a dark room. Slightly disappointing. Also they were much bigger than I thought. Everythings far from vr headsets though. I built a little rc car with a hemisphere view you could look around using a vr headset many years ago. That was so immersive, you bacame the car :) resolution was crap though. Still waiting for hardware to catch up :/
hey hey, im doing a deep dive into researching for possibilities to build my own oled boxed goggles since a few days. Could you share some info how u did it, and what screen u used ? I thought about using oled phone screens, since replacements of those are cheap, but most of them have proprietary protocol and cant be driven by default mipi dsi. Also any thoughts on how to get analog? the few screens that come with a driver board have hdmi in, so i guess id do the same as shown in the video? im just worried about the analog to hdmi latency edit: another thing with using display + driver board kits from aliexpress is, that all of those are in portaitmode, which mean the image needs to be flipped 90°. This is basically the same problem skyzone has on the cobrax with hdmi latency, as it adds latency even on an fpga to get that rotation
@@KidCe. I thought the latency on the cobraX was due to them having to mirror flip the image, since they use a mirror in those goggles to keep them compact. I'm not sure about oled screens of that size though.
Super impressed with this man, ingenuity at its finest! I plan to do this soon, however, id like to run an additional connection for AV out purely for DVR as i believe the DVR in the goggles doesnt record hdmi in feed? Im guessing i just need to wire a femal AV port/cable end to the PCB that connects to the Video out on the module?
@dbloemhard you're killin me smalls. How much does it cost for all the components(minus the analog module and antennas)? I have a rapidfire module, antennas, and uruav adapter.
I do love soldering and making stuff though. The cost and functionality would be the only deal breaker for me. My only experience flying analog is with the uruav adapter on dji v2 goggles.
How cheap/easy do you want? If you already have the Uruav analog adapter, you can just use that with an Av2hdmi adapter like this a.aliexpress.com/_ooupUDM - the analog adapter already has the 5v regulator, barrel plug and analog socket bay. So on the adapter module you will see 4 pads 5v, GND, Audio, AV. Just wire the 5v and gnd to the pins of the vreg that I show at 4:04 in this video. And AV goes to the video pin at 4:14 (where the yellow wire is). Can also wire ground here too if you want to make sure you don't have video noise. The total height might be a bit higher than the one in my video but it's cheaper and quicker haha
If you do it this way, you obviously dont connect the uruav adapter to the goggles via the 3.5mm plug anymore. Just put the power lead into the uruav module, and the extension lead goes from the other side of that into the goggles. And then a small HDMI to Mini HDMI cable from the AV2HDMI box to the goggles.
Love that you made this. Thank you. QUESTIONS...what guage wire and where? What is your jumper wire? what did you use to cut PCB?. Im making a mess with dremel. lol What is the yellow video wire from? thats an FPV silicone style wire? Why didnt you sugest the different style Cable for HDMI mini so the cable is not upside down?... jw if this matters.
Oops sorry I didn't get to reply to you here. I used a box cutter to cut the pcb. Using a dremel stiiiinks and I'm sure the pcb dust isn't good for you. Then, I'm using awg30 for jumper wires, and I think awg16 for power wires. It's actually not that important, it doesn't draw that much power
I have a bunch of AWG30 wire that i ordered from Aliexpress in all sorts of colors - the yellow wire is from there. As for a different cable, i just didnt have anything that size, and there arent many cables available with a right angle connection on the mini-hdmi. But since i will be plugging and unplugging this regardless, I guess a pre-made connector would look cleaner here.
@@Tokyo_Dom Collaboration and ingenuity at its finest. Prototypes are never finished lol I even found a whole kit with a top cover and converter board on Bangoooods website for $9. lol id order that just to have a separate cover to mount the module to. lol.
@@Tokyo_Dom I just got the bulk of mine. I realized that the 30G was for the AV2 wire? I have 3 of the connector cables here, I will just cut 2 to make 1 long one. Should work. lol. Less soldering. I got to mass produce these. Dom, I will get you your 1% royalties on the sales. LMK how to send it.
Hi love the videos. I also live in Japan (Tokyo)and recently got into fpv drones, built a 5inch and a 2.5inch freestyle . I wanted to know how did you deal with all the restrictions? Do you have the amateur radio license etc? Any info would be greatly appreciated as Im finding it difficult to pursue this hobby here.
Yeah 5 inch is not going to work in Tokyo. There are some drone fields out in Chiba and kanagawa but you will want to have all your licenses and approvals to fly there. 2.5 inch is also pushing it in the city, just too many people in the parks here, and trust me, you will have the police called on you at some point (I have). The way I deal with it is to stay well under 100g, ducted whoops I can fly indoors and if I do happen to fly outside, it's small and harmless looking so unlikely to anger anyone.
Toyo_Dom, I got the modules working. Thanks for this info. I also have the receiver unit to use from GetFpv as well as amazon. Is this one you make a way to avoid the black and white?
Wow, super implemented thanks for the effort seems to work great. With my HDMI converter there is a switch with NTSC and PAL, on which of the two do I put the switch? 😅
Hmm i would be concerned that your one might be the other version that I mentioned in the video. I saw comments that this version has added latency that made it hard to fly with. But if you want to try, it should match whatever camera you have (pal or ntsc is decided on the camera side). Some cameras let you switch between pal and ntsc, but others will be fixed (usually on ntsc)
@Tokyo_dom If you power the goggles on bran new, just out of the box with a lip, are they supposed to go to menu and then black screen? I have not connected these yet. Maybe that is my issue, but Caddx isnt helping me much. They wanted a recording of the issue. I told them, the black screen looks like all the other black screens, ....its just black. lol.
@@keyboarduser0178 this is almost guaranteed to be the proximity sensor. Hopefully, putting your finger right over the sensor should allow the screens to turn back on. There are guides on how to turn it off blindly if the sensor is really bad.
@@keyboarduser0178 alternatively, it could be that you are in hdmi input mode (also black screen) but unlikely in a brand new set. Hold the back button 3+ seconds and let go it should beep a couple of times then change input, cycling between walksnail, av input (blue screen) and hdmi input (black screen)
@@Tokyo_Dom I did figure it out. I cannot remember the sequence, but I found a way to get it to switch. It was a up, down, left, left, right, down, up lmao. something like that. It was in a weird mode. ....but now if i hold the button for 4 secs it changes from hdmi to analog to something else. black, fuzzy and then blue screen.....anywho.... that works. Nowww next.....
repair.wiki/w/Avatar_Goggles_X#/media/File:Avatar-HD-Front-PC-2-scaled.jpg yes it has the ms1858e on the main board. And 2 frames actually matches the 33ms that Mads Tech measured for analog latency - about 15ms more than the HDZ goggles. But it hasn't bothered me one bit while flying, and i guess if that difference is a problem for you then Walksnail would be out of the question to start with.
@@Tokyo_Dom Thank you for the video again. Could you please see my comment on top and provide info on wire sizes for individual sockets. Literally sitting here staring at all the stuff to solder together. lol.
how about the latency? i used different AV2HDMI converter to convert analog signal to HDMI, so i can use goovis goggles, but the camera to glasses lantency is about 80ms, not very good for fpv dones,
I havent measured this but for sure its less than 80ms. That would be pretty dramatic and hard to fly FPV for sure. I have no issues flying with this solution, i suspect its well under 50ms
@keyboarduser0178 is also me. I dont know why it keeps changing. I am so close to plugging this in. I can run power from lipo to 5v regulator and then to av2hmi/ then goggles, correct?
Oops missed this message. Power split from the lipo, one side goes to the goggles. Other side goes into the 5v regulator, and that goes into the av2hdmi. Goggles need lipo voltage, not 5v
@@Tokyo_Dom Thank you. I watched for a reply for days lol. I have everything here. I did try this with a different power supply and there must have been some trapped smoke inside the speedybee analog receiver. The smoke came right out though. lmao. Moving on. Trying it your way. I am pretty sure the analog module is toast at this point due to my lack of patience. Maybe I can fix the analog receiver now. LOL. Thank you for the reply. The pic was what confused me, I thought the power from the av2hmi was part of the input power from the BEC. I see clearly now.
I'm not sure I would charge much for the quality of printing my printer does. Where are you at? Usually there are printing services that can be done for one-off or low volume prints. I found it somewhat expensive here in Japan - like 1500-2000yen for a single item, which is kind of ridiculous for a tiny piece of plastic. I'd be happy to print something for 500yen or so but postage outside of Japan is going to be silly.
@@Tokyo_Dom Yessir. I did order a couple from one guys. I ended thinking of all the printers for sale and figured there has to be someone that prints. Went to the fpv site where I get most of my quad parts and sure ass heck....there is a printing service. I ordered one from another guy just to see the lead time difference for other projects. I have yet to find a local person who actually follows through with requests. Usually they will promise something and then just never do it or get back to you lol. There is a pretty kool cover for front mount too. Its on the Caddx website. I ordered one of those too.
@@Tokyo_Dom Im not sure if I replied yet, but I did get the cover printed. I appreciate your direction on this. I am still trying to finish this mod. The 5v Reg is taking soooo long. Ive ordered more and have yet to get them. Wish me luck.
It should be exactly the same as using AV input. That goes through the same MS1858E hdmi conversion chip inside the goggles. You can see there is no latency difference noticeable by looking at the two screens when I am flying
Hi, May I know your URUAV DJI Analog adapter is 2.0 or 3.0? I asked, then they say 3.0 and speedybee was usable. Also want to know your adapter rapidFIRE usable? Very appreciate.
Mine is the 3.0, I got it here: a.aliexpress.com/_opchAgm there is the 3.0+ which has the voltage display but I didn't want to use that. It won't make a difference on whether the module will work on these goggles though. All of them just pass the video signal directly from the receiver to the 3.5mm port, there is no processing, no modification. My adapter will work with rapidfire too, it should work with all of the modules
Nice, I'd like to see a latency test done between good analog goggle and your set up using a led light and a high frame rate camera like madztek... I know DJI V2 goggles add latency when using analog, I'm wondering how these do, im pretty latency sensitive so ive been holding off upgrading to hd goggles and just using a ws vrx...
Hey so unfortunately I don't have a high speed camera (other than my gopro I think does 240fps). But I don't think this will have any improvement on using the av-input for analog. It uses the exact same MS1858E chip as the av-input board has in the goggles, and other tests show this av2hdmi adapter has a 2 frame latency (33ms). This is exactly what mads tech measured in his tests so this should have the same latency plus a couple of ms for the hdmi input delay. In practice I can't see the difference between the goggles (output to the monitor) and the fpv monitor underneath but if you are sensitive it might be an issue
@@Tokyo_Dom i think 100fps each frame would be a millisecond, i may be wring... but your gooro should work, im just curious in general, i heard the dji v2 adds like 40ms when converting analog, just was really wondering if i can sell my hdo2 and vrx and put towards the goggleX
@@DigitalCruzer 1ms is 1/1000 of a second so 100fps will be 10ms/frame. At 240 I will be at about 4.2ms per frame but I can give it a go. Personally I wouldn't go selling your hdo2s, I've still got my HDO's, I think it will take a while before Caddx get analog sorted to an acceptable level (and my solution here, while I am enjoying it, isn't perfect - I'm scared to go out past walking distance in case I go to a bluescreen)
Yes should be no problem. But I've also seen people post on Facebook that they can use steadyview with a normal Uruav dji analog adapter. I suppose it's a case of pick your poison: fake snow and 4:3 or blue screen and full screen 16:9 🤔
@@eddie_Za oh wait I thought you meant the steadyview X. No there is no way for the adapter to communicate with the regular steadyview. Would need to add an Elrs backpack I think?
ill make you one lol. $75. Maybe we could just make the kits to make these and sell the kits with a link to this video!!! Ill share 1% royalties with you. lol. yay. Walksnails were not a waste of money now.
@@henryisaac945 I definitely replied to this lol. Maybe on my other account. Anywho, Give me a follow or get in touch with me. I would be happy to help if I can master @Tokyo_Dom prototype. I am almost finish with mine. I just have to get a new Analog receiver. Make sure you get the Analog receiver you like. I think you can actually get an analog receiver that will integrate a bit easier, but this is fun for me either way. Thanks for the shout out.
@@its_key Hey man no worries! I haven't been around much, but how's the prototype going? I'm still looking for a solution for analog and would love for this version to be the one
@@henryisaac945 all done. I used some different items and it works great. I’m not sure why Dom didn’t his way, but I am wondering if that’s why my pic is black and white. I gave up and just got digital. lol.
@Tokyo_dom now I have a new question.... still waiting on 3 BEC to come in the mail. i have ordered from different sources due to lack of patience. BUUUUT,,, I have a milwaukee m12 power source thinger that you can plug an m12 battery into and then it supplies 2.1Amp to either a usb for phone charging or it has the barrel connector to plug in heated milwaukee gear. I dont have milwaukee gear and my wall phone chargers work just fine. I cut it open. It looks like a good candidate other than the bulkiness of it....Moving on....Trying to brainstorm your wires here. The vid shows everything, but in bits and pieces. .... How are you plumbing you power wire to the module. I only see a part of it and at the end of your vid it shows the AV2HDMI gets power via the BEC and then to the googles. I have the barrel connector so I can eliminate the wire out, but what do I supply the battery power tooooo....simple, yet not so simple..lol
also, the printed cover is great., but gives me clearance issues with the Speedybee 5 way button due to no USB slot on the side of the printed cover. I just cut it out and sent it lol
@@keyboarduser0178 lol I know the feeling of impatience. Well yes, you can use any usb charger will have 5v coming out of them. Newer ones do multiple voltages but need specific signals back to enable the other voltages. Anyway, if you power the hdmi converter over usb, you can get voltage to the analog module from the circuit board where I've highlighted to *insert* 5v.
@@keyboarduser0178 for power into the module it goes like this: Female barrel connector -> 5v bec -> male barrel connector. The bec is kind of in-line, so the in and out is just connected. The 5v output from the bec goes into the hdmi converter and the external module. Does that explain it better?
Incredible. I am guessing this will let you record as well. does this work with the TBS fusion as well? Unfortunately I have that module with me currently.
Hey so the tbs fusion should work with the regular av adapter - I've seen several people post with that module. Also, DVR doesn't work for hdmi in either :( but we do have an rca jack on the side and you can add an rca to 3.5mm plug onto that if you want to record externally
@@Tokyo_Dom Thanks for the reply. Ya currently I have modified one of your previous Thingiverse prints to just plug my fusion with the v3 av adapter. This however can use the full screen so has me ttempted. haha. Great mod BTW
Heh yes, this is worth it just for that. Full screen 16x9 is amazing! I think you could fit a dvr module in here as well, might need to extend the module cover print or something.
@@Tokyo_Dom Finally got this done. I just used my tbs fusion module with urave analog adapter and soldered the wires from the DVR pads to the av to HDMI converter. I did not need the 5 volt BEC in my case. Although my setup is very clunky and is just held via sticky Velcro, I have to say that the full screen view on the goggles x is much better than the av in. Thank you again for making this tutorial.
@@mrityunjay1234 it's a struggle, 16:9 looks amazing, but then we have blue screen on low signal. Now they've fixed the fake snow (latest release) but no 16:9. I'll keep pushing them for an update to allow 16:9 on av input mode
@@vitalyparhomenko7817 this hdmi adapter works great with the Foxeer wildfire. No issues with over brightness, and full 16x9 screen use. It's just that this method is kind of diy compared to the off-the-shelf dji analog adapter.
@@DimisFpv yes me too. You can add a dvr module as well but the one I ordered didn't work. The Caddx one will have dvr too apparently. So once that's out it seems like a pretty solid solution, but right now it's a little clunky
Would be the same. You can compare the video feed on the standalone monitor if you think it will be a problem - that's not going through the walksnail goggles and has the same latency we expect in all analog systems.
@@chrisdomeier4985 no it's not a problem with mine. Look at the two screens, they are exactly in sync. Are you referring to the latency numbers that Mads Tech measured or did you actually fly and felt latency? If you actually felt latency then I'm not sure what's wrong, the analog input latency is fine for me (and others that I have spoken to)
@@BagrijRoman in practice it works great. The other version of the HDMI adapter i showed in that screenshot uses a different process - converts the AV to VGA and then VGA into HDMI; i imagine this might add some unwanted latency but the adapter in this module i use has the exact same chipset as the goggles X use for Analog input, so it should be identical
Haha maybe slightly. I still get blue screen on low signal. But blue screen/fake snow it's still annoying. Apparently you can program the hdmi conversion chip to remove the blue screen, I just don't have the specs or info on how to do it.
hello Tokyo_dom thank you very much for your video it is great, I followed your example try myself to do the same thing as you in the same way, I bought exactly the same parts made with your methods, but unfortunately, that does not only works for about ten seconds, I lose the connection with a blue screen for three to five seconds and I recover the connection and this loops, impossible to maintain a stable connection, I bought a second HD box to be sure that the problem did not come from the box, but I still have the same problem impossible to keep the connection stable, can you please help me if you have an idea, I would really appreciate it, looking forward to for your help and your response I thank you cordially, I am subscribed to your channel and I follow it from France, keep it up, it's great; thank you in advance
Oh no that doesn't sound good at all. Which analog module are you using? I saw a comment on Facebook saying that they got the random blue screen quite often using a regular switching diversity module - I think this converter has trouble when the switch is done. The speedybee/wildfire etc modules merge the signal rather than switching completely so that should avoid it.
Good evening Tokyo_dom Thank you very much for your help, I followed your advice and immediately purchased a latest generation SpeedyBee receiver I will keep you informed as soon as I receive it after the first tests, I sincerely hope that the problem was indeed due to this I am impatient to be able to do like you and fly in analog with my Walksnail struggles Sincerely thank you again for your help, look forward to your next videos Thank you very much from your subscriber from France David
@@dronesdavidpro hopefully you have a better experience with this module. Note that Caddx has informed me that they are testing specifically with the Speedybee receiver, so this module should work without problems on the regular AV input in their next firmware too. I will make another video update when this is available
@@jonblackburn5896 they are on the Chinese new year holidays, I suspect they haven't done any work in it for the last 2 weeks :) How is the experience with your Speedybee now? Is the signal solid now?
