Nice vid mate. When removing the oil filter housing, I turn it maybe 3-4 turns slowly and there is a small square hole in the threads to let air in as the oil drains out, its hard to see it but as long as it's done slowly, it allows all the oil to drain out of the housing before lifting it off. If you're too quick to lift it off it can make a mess in a very hard area to reach and clean. Cheers
Thanks for the video, we are from Canberra and we’re currently touring Tassie in a 2016 Titanium Tdi and will be doing an in between oil change before heading off to FNQ for the winter. Re fuel consumption, we get around 8 L/100k driving to Melbourne 4-5 times a year and around 11L/100k towing a 16’ caravan so I’m very happy with that. This would have to be the nicest car I have ever owned because it’s so smooth and quiet to drive with plenty of power. We found our Territory with only 23k and just on 12 months old for $40k. I would have bought a new one but they had stopped making them. Our kids are touring with us and they have a 3 week old GXL Landcruiser and while it’s nice it’s certainly not $60k extra nice. When I had the last service done I asked about getting the extended 3 year Ford warranty but my original warranty had expired a month before so I had missed the boat. One of the mechanics walked in on the conversation and when I explained what car I was talking about he said don’t worry about it as the Territory’s rarely had anything go wrong. While it doesn’t have some of the whizz bang electronic gadgets of some newer cars it will do us for many years to come. Speaking of whizz bang gadgets you don’t get much more in a 200 series GXL Landcruiser than what is in our Territory. You have to step up to about a $135k Landcruiser to get those. Also a warning to those doing there own oil changes, a number of years ago we had an oil company rep giving a talk at our 4x4 club and he warned us that used oil was a known carcinogen. Ever since I have worn protective gloves when working on the oily or greasy parts of my cars. Cheers Stuart.
Fantastic overview of how to do this. Full details of: removing engine cover; removing oil filter; emptying oil from sump plug. I just did an oil change based on this without any trouble at all. I did use a shifter to remove the oil filter cover as I did not have a 32mm socket, it was a bit difficult to get the cover to start moving without rounding the edges, I'd buy a socket next time. Many thanks!
You can put the oil filter into the housing and align the spigot as per video - but the book method is to put the filter into the top cannister (clicks twice when pushing in) and screw it down and torque it to 25nm (after replacing cannister o ring that comes with filter). If you look closely into the oil filter housing on the block there is a circular "ramp" that the spigot on the filter winds along and then hits a stop above the spigit hole and goes in as you wind ie. Self aligning! Also when removing filter as others have said unscrew the cannister 4 to 5 turns and wait for 2 mins to let the oil drain out - less mess!
great video mate , my wife & I bought the same car , about to change the oil myself , thankyou for putting this up I have a much better idea to go ahead now , we bought our territory for pulling our caravan we are renovating , sub you mate !
Thank you so much for your video ,just bought a 2012 TS territory Diesel ,keen to change the oil myself so i watched attentively all the way through . also noted all your maintenance points and noted them for inspection when i pick the vehicle up next week. i especially appreciated your comment to change the oil every 10,000 as my new car is up late 100ks my father had trucks and he always said oil is cheap . Thanks Again .Trevor Gunston Brisbane QLD
Bucks Gas Garage I’m wondering if part of the issue getting it out is that when it’s being undone from the valley with the filter staying in place, that it gets locked in some how and you actually need to spin it just as many times in reverse. Because I noted the sound of it on the spring as the new filter was in place and the housing was done back up. I noticed 4 small plastic bits in the side of the old filter each at 90 degrees when it finally came out 😬, all seems to be ok so far with everything back in though...
Excellent oil filter position. The sump plug accessibility seems to be an after thought. Mine was on so tight that I had to take the plastic shroud off which gave me better access for a socket to be placed on. To reduce oil mess, I held the plug in front of the hole which allowed a straight fall of oil straight into the pan.
It's a Ford engine, made by Ford for a number of European cars: Peugeot, Citreon, and as mentioned the land rover and Range rover. Good engine, has held up well. All original design by experienced Ford engineers in England. The 3 litre version is even better.
Onya border boys , Picked up an 11 sz Diesel titanium with 250k on the od , The EGR valves where totally blocked , putting her back on road after she went into limp mode and got caught in a Bingle , Much appreciated for the info
I done my oil change this morning and thanks to this video I knew what I needed to look out for like rubber seal on filter catrage etc. My low oil pressure sensor warning on dash come up but left it running and after 5 seconds it went away. Can you do a video on fuel filter replacement? Thanks mate
Great video, diesel Territory's actually use the 6R80 Transmission, even better than the ZF6 speed especially when serviced every 40-60,000ks, never believe that fill for life crap 😊
Glade you liked it! I just googled the 6R80, i see made by ford, under licence from ZF, mine is probably due at around 90,000klm, No heavy towing or stop start traffic makes a difference though.
We have got nearly 180,000km on ours and occasionally have issues with gear changes sometimes being very clunky, is servicing the transmission a job for a specialist or is it just a matter of changing the fluid?
Very happy with our SZ diesel AWD. 130K with the only additional work being suspension bushes. It does use significantly more fuel than stated in the video. My wife drives it mostly and she doesn't drive it hard. We get 9.5 to 10 on the highway and about 14l/100km around town. I have noticed that the temperature does move around a bit and goes well below the working range when going down a mountain. Dealer says it's normal but I'm not sure. If it's running too cold this could explain the fuel consumption. Any thoughts? Thanks for the great video.
Surprising that your temperature gauge moves, our is the same winter or summer,unless it 40+ going up a mountain. I would think it has the wrong thermostat in it, or none at all by what you describe. The computer will adjusted the fuel mixture based on temperature. I also think it could be carboned up with that fuel consumption, i give the car a thrashing every month to clean it out from idle around town, these engines can handle 4000rpm easily.
No way somethings wrong there, my 2012 MY13 does 7lt/100 on highway and 9lt/100 around town. On flat highways I always get 6.5lt/100. Im in Central Queensland, not sure if that makes a difference. I also use Nulon low emission 5W-30 to keep the ash out and change oil every 5000, and only fill to about 85%. Theres a Russian who explains why the Ford Lion TDV6 2.7 duratorq commonly fails (as its used in a huge variety of manufacturers) and the reason is always because of not using low ash oil &/OR filling it to max.
I have noticed they take a long time to reach the mid range on the gauge and more importantly with regard to economy, the ZF stays in a lower ratio for the speed whilst it’s colder. It would certainly impact short trip economy. I previously had a 2013 AWD and now a 2016 AWD from new. Both the same in regard to temperature and shift behavior. 10.0 -10.5 short trips and 10.8 on highway towing a trailer loaded to 800-1000kg. Very consistent with the towing.
Hi I really enjoyed your video, it gives me the confident to have a go myself instead of getting ripped off at the local mechanic. I was wondering where is the throttle body, I would like to clean that. Is it the big pipe that goes to the engine or the one coming out of the air filter? Thanks again
I am not sure about a throttle body on the 2.7 diesel, but if your talking about the air flow meter it is right next to the air filter housing, be carful they can be easily damaged if you not sure what you are doing.
@@TheBuckthat oh ok I didn't know that, the local ford ealer said yes they do clean the throttle body. I could have a dirty fuel filter, how often do they need changing, I heard very 30000 - 40000kms?
@@jonm2522 could be fuel filter and yes about every 30,000 to 40,000klm , ours has done 50,000, but the diesel we get is very clean and virtually no water content in it.
Hi. Great info. I have a 2012 AWD Titanium, 180kms. Love the car, great to drive. I get 8.8l/100km on a trip and 9.2 around town and I'm not a hoon. How do you get under 8l/100k? I'm interested in how AWD works. 4WD I understand with a center diff & lock. I have a cluck when I turn for the first time after 200kms or more. I have done a lot of farm type mechanic over the years but AWD I can't work out. I took front wheel off the other day and I could spin this wheel with the other three on the ground?
Hey, Would like to know how you got that rear guard/ spoiler looking thing on the top/back of the car. Would like to get my hands on one for my territory.
It's nearly identical to the discovery 3 2.7 diesel, there are a couple of vids on youtube, I would do a video, but I am about 50,000 klm before mine is due.
I thought our engine was pretty clean compared to most out there, but there would be no way i would spraying water around under a modern engine bay, maybe a wipe over with a rag but that's about it, too many electronics to bugger up with water.
@@TheBuckthat Yep understand water & electronics don't mix. maybe blast of air then ha Ha I just get paranoid about dirt in engine bay or in electronic device, I am engineer, when I work on stuff.
You wouldn’t happen to know if there can be a oil leak from having a broken oil filter cover? As I have one but mechanic can’t seem to pinpoint where leak is and recons it’s the cover?
I thought it was only the petrol motors that had a fuel cut off switch in the front left hand kick panel, most of the time with diesels is the pump in the tank failing, turn the ignition switch on you can hear the pump tank prime, then the engine pump takes over. if the pump in the tank fails the car will not restart if the filter has been replaced or run out of fuel.
The seal goes on the oil filter housing above the threads to screw it back down, you will need a screw driver small flat blade to get the old one out, and make sure there is no twist in the seal when you put the new one in as you have to roll it over the threads.
I assume your territory is a 4.0litre petrol, the normal oil is a 10w-30 but if its a bit higher in the klms maybe a 10w-40, i normally would use Castrol magnatec or Valvoline engine Armour
Interesting, you must have a very early test mule as the Territory was released until 2004. 😂😂😂😂 but it’s good to see an older one still being looked after.
It goes on the filter cap just above the threads, you will have to get the old one out with a flat blade screw driver and be carful you don't have the new one twisted when sitting in the grove.
How fucking ridiculous is that oil filter, you pull it out and all the worst part of the oil drains out into the holder and even with some paper towel you can get it all out because of all the shit that’s in there. Absolutely pathetic engineering
Gday, enjoyed ur video, I own a 2011 awd, I cannot stress enough after reading comments on others that have a diesel to make sure that you do both the timing belt and pump belt @ the 165k or earlier,,,it will be costly if it fails, also, up here in Sydney anyway, try a company called BMI for engine spares, way cheaper then Ford and they are genuine, I bought mine 2nd hand and was assured that both belts were done,,,they weren't, 8 k later , I'm still replacing parts, so do your timing belt
