Camshaft Bearing Installation - Step by Step 

There should be a piece of rubber between them

I’m very happy to hear it helped! This video was intended for those who might be doing this for the first time. I did my best to cover everything I could! No sense in rushing - the main thing I want to do is give beginners enough information and a clear demonstration that leaves them feeling confident in doing it themselves. As for the lube - flat tappet camshafts require an oil with sufficient zinc additives. This can be achieved by either buying the proper oil, or by adding a zinc (ZDDP) additive. I recommend going with the right oil in the first place, as the oil was formulated with the zinc additive package in mind, rather than an afterthought. What you’re referring to is assembly lube (some people use cam grease on the cam). The purpose of this is to sufficiently lubricate moving engine components that may not immediately receive oil on first start up. It’s typically thicker than oil so it stays in place during and after assembly, as well as for added protection. It gets placed on the INSIDE of bearings, cam lobes, lifter faces, etc. I recommend PennGrade 1 assembly lube (“the green oil”) and PennGrade break in oil. I don’t like cheapijg out on oil for break in, as it is too crucial to the procedure. Hope this information was useful. Any questions, feel free to ask!

4 o'clock? Is the hole at 6 o'clock? It's hard to see. I'm about to do my Jeep stroker and wonder exactly where to line it up. The block has more of a groove than a hole.

The age old argument... Most engine builders and bearing manufactures go 12 - 2 degrees. Test show any past 2 degrees you won't have the oil build up enough yet. Takes a but of time for the flow to be enough. Now you run a high pressure AND high volume oil pump, you are correct otherwise the extra oil would wash out.

Eh, I’ve learned to do it with the block on the workbench so the hits are solid. Also upgraded to a better cam bearing tool which helped a ton. Never said I was perfect, but feel free to make a video and show me the right way!

Appreciate the comment! The close up shots from the video allowed me to see some errors in my installation. I always welcome constructive comments.

I'm learning too, If you can, remove the block from the stand and work on it vertically ( with protection from the floor) helps alignment and reduce bounce ( gravity), also put the bearings in the freezer ( dry ice better) and warm the cam tunnels with propane torch (not excessively) @@BriGuyGarage

If you read through the comments, a few people mentioned that the “bouncing” of the installation tool caused that issue to occur. You can put the block down on the ground or workbench, and install them by hitting downwards - that should eliminate the bounce. Holding the tool more firmly probably would’ve helped too, I’m sure. But yes, you can definitely throw them in the freezer - I’ve done that before with transmission bushings/bearings. Be careful not to drive them too far though. Let me know how it goes!

If the tool is long enough, you can definitely get #1 from the back. Whichever feels more stable for you and the tool you’re working with. All that matters is that you get it in there square and centered with the feed passage. The cam bearings are interference fit. They won’t be going anywhere unless something is out of spec. “Thread sealant” type loctite should not be used on bearings. Some bearing types require a retaining compound, but not any that are found in a SBC.

Hello! Yes, as I said in the video, it isn’t a make or break difference having them lined up with the mains. I’m not entirely sure but Ive heard people saying their crate engines had them installed that way. It’s just something the bearing companies specify, but it’s possible that it’s simpler for them to like them up hole to hole on assembly lines or something. Either way, if your cam bearings look good, lasted you this long, and gave you adequate oil pressure before, you should be fine. A lot of guys still install them that way, and it’s a hot debate. Just make sure you don’t use any caustic cleaners with the cam bearings still installed, or it will ruin them and you will then have to replace them. Thanks for watching!

I'd replace them and make sure your 2. 3. and 4 bearings are positioned at 2 o'clock (8 o'clock when upside down) Front bearing at 11 and 2 o'clock (8 o'clock and 4 o'clock when upside down}. When the bearings are aligned with the main feed holes the oil film cannot support the camshaft from the pressure of the springs pushing the camshaft down because the oil is constantly draining.

Lining up the feed holes certainly isn’t the worst place to put it, but I opted to follow the bearing manufacturer’s advice. It’s one of those “debates.” If you Google it, you’ll see for yourself. What position were your old ones in?

You drop the bearings in from the top when the engine is upside down.

@@alaskanadventures1164 That has absolute fck all to do with what we are talking about.

@@borismcfinnigan3430 oooook. Good luck bud

@@borismcfinnigan3430 oh i see he was wondering how the cam fits through the bearings during instal. Lol. It's magic! Haha

Interesting, that is the first time I’ve heard the recommendation of applying lube from the manufacturer. Clevite says the opposite - apply them completely dry. Several articles and engine books say dry as well. What are you working on?

Hmm, interesting. I just ordered some cam bearings for an olds 403. I have never installed them before so I was never sure if you lube them or not. Would love to know what you are working in.

If ur on a desktop, click and hold on the video while its playing, and vid will speed up 2x