Can a 217 YEAR OLD Water Pump Cool A PC? 

The obvious choice is to combine the water wheel with a cooling tower. If the tower has enough holding capacity it should be able to sustain constant gravity fed flow through the block and act as a buffer to remove the pulses of flow from the water wheel pump. Make it so. :)

Coil pumps were designed to pump up from a stream to a hill or water tower to a reservoir, then use gravity feed water pressure to water crops, etc. It would be really cool to replicate that type of system to cool the cpu, as it should eliminate the air bubbles.

An inventor's greatest aspiration is to have their invention be used for a purpose they couldn't possibly have imagined. It's cool to see such an old design work as well as this does for PC cooling.

A DIY Peristaltic pump would be cool and probably pretty easy to do. No air bubble issues either.

V2 should include another pump setup exactly like this. But, have the pumps setup 180 degrees out, meaning have one of the inlet tubes under water, and the other pump have the tube out of the water. Then have them connected via T Flange. See if that would keep a constant flow of water. Probably not, because you still have to account for the air in the system. But i'd be curious to see what happens.

You can get rid of the air bubbles putting a tall tube open at the top in a T junction before the block. The tube just must be taller than the pump pressure

Maybe use the pump to fill a reservoir then use that to flow through the block removing the air from the system. If your pump can keep up with the flow... but if the flow is causing a change in water heights it should balance out and become a flow that speeds up and down.

Two thoughts: 1) instead of a radiator, have the coil pump dump water into the top of a cooling tower with a second reservoir at the bottom, and just have it elevated to provide the necessary pressure into the water block. That would help avoid the water becoming thermally saturated *and* would result in a continuous water flow into block, likely resulting in better performance. 2) Can you cool a PC with an archimedes screw? :p

A Habitual Line Crosser reference is the last thing I expected to hear lol

Missed opportunity to print this in wood filament 😁

I am honestly surprised you did not use the noctua to power this. You could try printing an archimedes screw, for a more stable flow. It's a really easy, if a bit loud design.

This performed infinitely better than I expected. Love it! Cheers 🍻

Steven Mould would be proud of your set up! Such a cool use for the Wirtz pump.

Very cool! These videos are the exact reason why I keep coming back to this channel, always some interesting stuff, that I haven't seen anyone try before, keep up the great work!

😂 I did not expect to see one of my clips used on a CPU but I'm here for it 😂

Ok this was super cool. These kinds of creative videos are my favorite.

Man I'm in love with your channel! awesome work and awesome personality as a host you have!

As soon as I saw the thumbnail I knew exactly where the inspiration for this came from. Very well executed! Hooking it up to a radiator would be neat, I'd like to see how much pressure it can handle.

Find a way to cool a CPU with one of those drinking bird toys or a tipping bamboo fountain. Now those are real challenges! Hahaha.

These are the best videos, love this kind of content dude

The RU-vid algorithm works well sometimes. Not only did I see the pump video I also contemplated the same things. So I'm glad you made this lol, I did think the air pockets would cause more problems.

really cool idea, didn't know about this type of a pump at all

habitual line crosser? great fella!! nice video man, love everything to do with thermals!!

Loved this! very creative method of cooling a PC :D

I always love the random experiment videos, you tried to make a water pump but you also made a trompe, now you need to make a separator with a check valve that will release some of the air as it builds up, and use it to cool a rad to help pull heat from the system.

this is the stuff!!!! love it man

Thats fun, well done!

That looks good and works better than I thought nice one

Amazing idea, please keep up the good content😂i really enjoy watching it

Two suggestions that should improve this system: If you add a funnel at the inlet of the pump, you should scoup up mor water/less air. And if you add something like a catchtank you could get rid of the air entirely. So basically add a tank at a very high position, where the pump dumps its water in. Have an opening in the top to release the air and an outlet for the water in the bottom. If the tank is positioned high enough above the wateblock gravity should create mor than enough waterpressure to ensure a good flow.

This is an interesting build! Only suggestion I have is to put a few more hoses with offset openings, with the other end going to a common collector, so that the intervals between pumps are shorter.

Brilliant stuff

I kind of want to figure out a way to implement some sort of air catch in the loop that could occasionally release extra air so just water flows through the actual cooling side of things. Cool concept and that it actually provides a useful level of cooling!

I love the little habitual linecrosser bit.

Woo Steve Mould ! I'm sure this pump would fit in some theme for a PC

Men, every video from you is a surprise. THX 🥰 Bwt: Sink that thing deeper into the tank, so maybe you can transport more water and less air.

That is awesome!

Saw that video as well, his videos are always interesting.

Make it spin faster! In a closed fish tank, use magnets to make it spin! Also remove all the air from the tubes! This was sooo cool!

a manifold with check valves, multiple inlet tubes staggered around the drum so that the moment one tube is up, the next one is in the water. I think that would increase the flow a good bit. I'm not sure how much effect the length of the coil has on the line pressure. It may work or it may not if you had 2 shorter coils with their inlets 180 degrees apart.

nice enjoy these messing around vids thanks

I think you might see an increase in temps on the upper cores IF the cpu was in a vertical position as I don't believe the water level would reach the top of the cpu. I believe the cpu being flat on your test bench was a good idea.

Very cool!!!

Amazing!

This is an interesting consept. Whit some modifications to original structure this can be scaled for more higher pressure and flow rate.

No ideas or recommendations. Just wanna say I appreciate your curiosity and skill to test theese weird cooling ideas 😊 Thank you and see you in the next one ✌️

Re-do this process with three water loops combining into one later in the loop. Each one has a check-valve to prevent back-flow. Then off-set each loop by 120 degrees. And you can showcase the typical 3-phase AC function of power generation, with water. And why it is beneficial in removing the 'air gap'.

I love Steve Mould's channel too!

It's a very cool idea, could you try exactly the same set up but print it along the length of the tank instead of the width and make the centre cyclinder smaller so the inlet pipe spends less time in the air ? that should help push more water throught the loop and then compare the 2 results please ? And then maybe if you have time experiment with different rotation speeds ?

I'd like to see you try to make the water flow constant, through a bottom feed resivoir + pressure release for excess air? I think it'd be interesting physics lesson too

@MajorHardware I think that you could get better flow with two or more tubes on the pump. If you offset the opennings of the tubesby 90 deg or 120 for three, then you will have pretty steady flow. Make a plenum with inlets and check valves to mix the flow from all the tubes. I think that would give you plenty of flow. If you use the suggestion I saw of a catchtank, with my idea you would have a pump that could supply a steady stream of air-free water to the cooling block.

It is possible to remove all air in the system if the pump is delivering water into a closed tank with only an outlet for a hose that has 50% of the carrying capacity of the hose on the pump. My assumption is that the pump has a 50% duty cycle, so if we account for that by having double the hose capacity on the pump, then we can accumulate the combined pressure in a closed tank. Then the pressure in the closed tank will deliver a relatively stable pressure on the side with the reduced hose size. Inlet should of course be on top and outlet on bottom, to keep max pressure on the outlet hose and reduce movement of the water. If possible, you can in this configuration add an infinite amount of pumps (the law of diminishing return may apply here) to raise the pressure on the secondary side of the closed tank (for stability of flow's sake, they can be run with an offset of 180degrees).

G'day Cooper & Major, That worked a lot better than I thought it would considering the amount of air in the loop. It would be interesting to see how size & speed of the drum affects the flow rate 🤔???

You might be able to get the air out by T-ing the return line back in the system just past the pump and having some sort of pressure release valve on the return as well to manage the pressure. Bonus points for finding an adjustable pressure valve to find the pressure limit of the system.

The setup you just made looks pretty good. I doubt doing the extra stuff the comments are saying will do much but experimenting is the fun part. The only thing that concerns me is the water evaporating. Maybe you can make your pump float on top of the water to stay a constant level?

This was cool, everyone making extremely cooling systems, ai like this one is more chill.

Aquarium filter powerheads are simple centrifugal pumps which drive a considerable volume of water through a similarly sized tube without the air gaps you get from anything resembling Archimedes' screw. As you noted, a radiator on the outflow side of the CPU may be helpful in extending the cooling capacity of the input reservoir.

I hope all is well with you. Normally you have a video or 2 a week. Looking forward to more from you when you can.

You could try putting a couple of them with their outputs joined using one way valves so you can maybe get better preassure and alleviate the irregular flow

I have generally found that people use much higher flowrates than are actually required for most watercooling setups. Water has massive heat capacity, and the difference between running your pump at full compared to its lowest speed is often just a couple degrees; temperatures is primarily controlled by radiator size and fan speed. Running your pump at minimum is much quieter, your pump will last longer, and the pump will dump less excess waste heat into the loop to boot. Definitely some kind of vertical stand-pipe to release air would be a good addition here to purge the air from the system (the air is blocking a lot of heat transfer) and provide smoother flow. Since the tubing sees variable back-pressure as it goes along the coils, it also might be helpful to jump tubing sizes a couple times across the drum. Start with a smaller inlet pipe and then use couplers to jump up in size every turn or two, which will approximate a widening pipe and provide more weight to keep the air slugs from climbing over the loop near the end at higher rotation speeds.

Have 2 or more coils on the same drum with evenly spaced inlets. With some clever valving you could eliminate the air gap, or use it to fill a water tower so you can have a constant flow.

pretty cool friend

Using the HLC F-22 clip for the cpu was just gold

Sudden HLC appearance. Neat.

a Major Hardware video, inspired by Steve Mould, with a HabitualLineCrosser reference in the intro. Yeah, i like this.

With the fishtank... set up in a way with no air and actually usable for a daily driver, the goal being daily use shouldn't be enough to heat soak it so each day you can run w/o fans. The truly silent PC XD. so big, no fans required. but it would require a like 100% water cooled pc like mobo etc. (Not to be confused with an actual fish tank pc with is being submerged. although that could be a super cool project too. Specially if you 3d print all the brackets etc, so community could create their own with yoru plans. It would make for an awesome series. ) After that tanget, will just say thank you for awesome content and keep it up. :)

A long flat/horizontal section of tubing with foam/sponge diffusers inside it would allow you to merge the air into the water as fine bubbles which might actually provide some cooling improvements just from turbulence

cool experiment you'd wear out the o ring in the rotary fitting in a day or two but it works as a proof of concept

Some sort of air separator system would be neat. Probably could make out of of just a bottle as reservoir where the air can bubble up to the top and some float valve to vent when there is enough air in it.

I think this needs a showdown sequel: an archimedes pump, this coil pump, maybe a rope pump, all have a risk of sucking in air, and need a pressure reservoir that should continually be allowed to leak through a valve from the top back into the input tank, to separate air before the CPU... then a peristaltic pump (plenty of printable designs for silicone tubing are freely available), and an off the shelf water cooler to bring it home. I believe all of the above (except the "control" ordinary water pump) can be easily made with a brushed motor as was done here, but knocking it out of the park would be using an (e.g.) NF-A12x25 motor and 3D printed parts, rather than an already-geared-down brushed motor to accomplish the task.

You could do a triple pump, or at least a double, separated by 120 or 180 degrees, but with check valves between the units.... that would give you more consistent flow. Or, you could put the water into a small tank, and the exit of that tank could then feed the cooling block. if you left an air bleed port on the top, sort of an overflow back to the fish tank, you could get constant flow, without the air. All told, very neat project you built!

0:28 I know exactly where that clip is from, that's from a Habitual Linecrosser video lol dude is hilarious. Interesting to see such old tech used in this way, surprising to see it actually work not too bad.

I want more of this! Scale it up with a higher speed/power motor!

really cool idea! probably should have put some type of accumulator to separate the air/water in the line before passing through the water block

Though it would not improve the issue of pumped air, it might be interesting to put 2 hoses in parallel where each dips into the water on opposite side of the wheel and both output into the hub connector. One-way valves would surely be needed where each hose connects to the hub (or wherever the combine) to avoid back-pumping, however, which may make this approach impractical. I don't know what's available or can be made, but a t-shaped valve where each hose pushes a ball or valve to close off the other hose with the output in the middle might work if independent 1-ways are too bulky, pricey, or impractical. The extra restriction might be a deal-killer anyway. The idea still interests me, though, as double action should greatly reduce the "off" time without increasing motor speed and increase total volume if the same hose were used. A slightly smaller hose might be more practical for compactness as you'd want to keep a similar number of turns, but you wouldn't want to reduce the hose diameter too much due to the exponential volume loss and increase in surface tension; the smaller the hose radius, the greater the losses and vice-versa.

It needs a small funnel for the intake... and for higher pressure and a constant flow it would help to have a reverse "p" trap, or simply force fill the last loop on the drum and pump the water up to the ceiling before it flows down into the computer turning the hose into a sort of reservoir.

Big "Gravity based" water flow. Just a big ol reseviour (fishtank) somewhere 5 feet above where the PC is. See how often you need to re-fill it. Could also make some sort of interesting pump to refill it, like a 5 foot long Archimedes screw.

Two things to try maybe 1. A water tower like others have said 2. Some kind of ball valve like some of the cheap snorkels have but it keeps the water in and air out. Also using a larger tube might help

Hey, can you do a video on the rotary woofer? (It's a subwoofer that uses a fan and blade pitch to create sound.) It looks like a very powerful and interesting, yet niche and underreported technology. You can do sub-20Hz sounds at high volumes without much power intake. Also according to those few reports on RU-vid you can easily shake your house + your neighbor's house with "simple" DIY solutions. So hooking it up to 120mm fan that is more powerful than a Noctua sounds like a pretty exciting idea!

Nice work, I wonder if the taller wind, like (Steve and the old farm dude use) creates more pressure, as the old guy was moving it uphill. I would also position the heat block at a slight angle so the air pools at the outlet.

Add a large intake paddle to scoop the water into the intake hose. Also, check the power draw on the hub motor and see if the CPU fan output on the MOBO can run the pump and regulate the speed of the wheel. Using a check valve as well on the intake will stop the air from entering when the intake scoop no longer has water pressure to open the valve. Make a small tank just large enough for the wheel, throw a couple of heatpipe fin coolers around the tank to passively cool and keep the power draw to a minimum.

Really cool concept. I would add a smaller fill tank to bleed the air and act as a capacitor to keep the flow constant. Great video as always.

Modern boiler systems for radiant heat often have an air release valve added into the system. You might be able buy one but could probably make one. It's basically a chamber with a fin or two and a floating check valve. Air gets out but water is supposed to stay in and works on pressurized systems. I would really like to know if something like that would work with something like this.

i have seen one hat was 10ft..he had a i gal container with the bottom cut out attached to the end of the tube on the wheel..it worked good..and take the air out of the hose on the wheel so water flows better with less surge in the water. 👍👍

Have it pump into a reservoir with an overflow. That does double duty, smoothing out the flow and eliminating air. Unfortunately, you lose your pressure unless you take full advantage of your head.

One idea is if you put a static tank that captured the air and water downstream of the swivel, and released only water through one exit that leads to the CPU, and have an air throttle as a second exit. If the throttle is correctly sized, it will regulate a constant higher than atmosphere pressure. Think a tire with a slow leak in it. Another idea is to have multiple intakes to even out the air/water cycles.

One could argue the coil pump is even older. Because it's basically an Archimedes Screw (aka Egyptian screw). And that dates back to ancient times. If you do an internet search for Archimedes screw, you'll see lots of pics and animations of an auger inside a tube. But there were several variants, including coiled tubes. The wikipedia page for the Archimedes Screw also has an equation that can be used to calculate the flow rate. So for example, if you want a certain flow rate, you can use the equation to design your pump. 😎

I too had this recommendation.

What about one more intake witch is shifted 180° so it can put water into the system without the waiting to get more water this way you can join the two pipe together before it is going into the rotating section of the tube, and maybe after this you can add a closed water tank to get just the water and remove some air, i think a litlebit air is fine because this way the pump can generate preasure in the tank and improve water preasure like that. Anyway nice video! Keep up!😄

5:57 others have suggested it, but I was gonna say have a second reservoir to pump the water into and then you'll have constant flow if you position the outlet/inlet at the right spots. The Romans did something like it to pump water over hills/valleys

The 7700K at 0:30 was awesome

Might want to add a part to separate the water in the air I would suggest a cup that lets the water air mixture in has a tube draining out the bottom and lets the air out the top as long as you keep it above the rest of the components it should flow properly thanks to gravity

LOL this gave me an idea you could try.. Garden hose cooling PC in the winter??

Sweet, HLC was memed! I guess I have to ask you to try an Archimedes Screw or one of those deep well hand pumps from ye olde days

You could use this as the return system to a gravity fed system. put this tank floor level, and a higher tank... you could use a big passive heat sink on the way back down as well then limit the flow available to pc so that it doesn't out pace the pump. It's a way to get the air out of the system. I personally Love the idea of mostly passive systems. Or even using geothermal methods to attain cool water.

I would love to see a V2 of this with multiple “pumping loops”, having them phased differently from each other like 4 loops all 90° separated would make for a more “stable” flow

try wrapping multi tubes around and add more inlets to feed water thru, might help with the air bubbles

I can't get past the habitual linecrosser clip at the beginning. I nearly died lmfao

awesome

Neat!