Very impressive. I have one with less than 200 miles on it. Almost all plowing so far. I'm having to hump that thing every single time I stop and back up, or go ahead. Sucks! Glad its a cheap easy DIY fix. Thanks man!
My 450 has done this since the day i bought it brand new. Loaded it up on the lot and thought oh well must just be how its sitting. 5 years later, nothing has changed. Tried adjusting linkage, nope. Been a good bike otherwise but next time ill get a polaris
Good job. I just paid $1000 to have that done. Some parts test good but are really bad like on my 570 the tank fuel pump tested good in the shop but would fail if the gas tank was half full. I didn’t mind paying a lot because I don’t know how to work on the clutch and once fixed the machine is good for a long time
Really to fix the Can Am shake “hump” you just need to adjust shifter arm linkage the long arm and the two bends in the shift linkage arm makes it finicky to adjust! They get it close at the factory and call good enough! It’s on the right side under the plastic near your knee. It uses a barrel adjustment with locking nut.
If you struggle to shift while the machine is off and on, this might work. If it shifts fine with the machine off and needs the hump while it's on, then the one way bearing is the way to go
I’ve been STRESSINGGGGG about this on Can-Am Renegade 570 Xxc for weeks, no decent videos on here then bang. Literally first 10 seconds I KNEW this is exactly the video I’ve been searching for! 👍🏻💪🏻🤞🏻
Hey man, awesome video. I have one question. So I just changed out the bearings and added the friction washer, but the atv wants to move forward slowly in high and move backwards slowly in reverse. What could that be? Too much grease, no grease on friction washer? I'm not sure. Hope to hear from you thanks!
Hoping that’s the fix for mine. The friction ring was broken. So I have new one on order. My belt keeps spinning and spinning the secondary clutch which is causing it to not shift unless it’s off.
@@Jason-ly6ng not bad at all. Hold the primary and break the bolt loose. Then retain the tiny springs on the one way bearing... there are plenty of videos on it
So did it almost feel like the ATV was idling too high to get it in and out of gears? That is what I’m having a problem with right now. Put it in reverse and the bike starts moving before I hit the Throttle.
That means you've got clutch drag! Definitely pull the cover off and start it. Carefully see what's going on but do not get near the clutch while it's spinning because you can get seriously injured if the clutch grabs your clothing.
My outlander 650XT shifts hard at time and only has 177 miles on it. I got it used from someone a few months ago. Would this be the same scenario as your 1000?
I think im having clutch/trans problems. About a yr ago my shifter just wouldn't engage, before that id always have to rock it in order to get it in gear. I took off my primary clutch and looked into the 1 way bearing and its was all tore up. My question is now that I have the clutch out shouldn't my trans shift freely through all the gears without the bike running? Or does that clutch need to be put back in so the 1 way bearing can engage so the trans/shifter can move through the gears. Cause right now all clutch and belt components are out but my shifter won't move at all, like it stuck in neutral and the shifter rod connected to the trans won't budge. Please help
I think I might have a bigger issue on it now that I took it out today 😢 there's a crack on the passenger side of the transmission housing. Goes all the way from the top to the bottom on that right side, looks like on the casing it bubbles out to house a gear or something on the bottom part of the trans
