Thanks for providing the video, it really helped. Especially the needle nose pliers and turning the puck in. I worked for over 45 minutes to try and get the caliper to fit over the rotor but it wouldn't go. Watched the video and it made all the difference. Thanks!!
Just curious. About how many miles did you get from your brake pads? Obiously durabilty changes with driver aggresiveness and riding style. Saw your answer (+/- 24K miles) below so no need to reply. Thanks for the video. Work safe.
Curious how ur EBC pads are doing now that you've had them on a while. I'm assuming these are the fully sintered EBC HH aftermarkets (for BREMBO) that you put on rather than stock Brembo from BRP. I have a 12 and 14 RTs. My 12 RTL only takes the EBC SEMI sintered that I put on 4000 miles ago. While changing the rear tire I noticed the EBC SEMI sintered on the 12 RTL are worn down significantly in 4000miles to 1.5 mm. My OEM brakes lasted til 16k.The 12 RTL only takes the SEMI sintered..I'm thinking that I might have possibly mis-aligned the rear wheel when putting on my brakes 4000 miles ago rather than it being a brake problem..I understand that some caliper pins may or may not have shims (like the abs sensor) for BREMBO) I didnt see these. I'm a lil miffed at only 4k on this set for the 12 RTL and curious what you've found for wear on ur 14 EBC fully sintered pads as my 14 is due soon too.Thanks!
Ok,I watched you turn the brake piston back into it’s housing, and I’ve read from others how easy it was when you knew what to do, but my piston is sticking up further than yours in the video, and not moving in at all. In fact it is extremely difficult to turn it at all, I’m currently using needle nose pliers clamped with vice grips to make it a little easier. Pushing while turning gets me nothing. I even tried a c-clamp for good measure. Any help is greatly appreciated.
You mention several times about BajaRon's instructions. Where do you get these instructions? I can't find a BajaRon website. Mainly, I need to know how to slot and bevel the brake pads. Or please create a video to show how to do it.
A lot in common.. I HAVE A 2014 and ever year we try and take 3 weeks and travel .. Grand Cayon- Canada / Cabot Trail.. loved watching the whales.. just saying hi. jim from ky.
You mentioned that you chamfered and slotted your pads per Baja Ron's instructions. I have searched the internet and can't find his instructions...actually, can't find any instructions. I'm guessing the instructions were provided with the pads. I ordered the same pads from SlingMods but there was no mention of chamfering and slotting when I received them. Do you still have the instructions? If not, can you tell me how you did it? And lastly, is it absolutely necessary? Don't want to mess up a set of expensive pads if I can avoid it. Thank you in advance for any advice.
Are you taking the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir for when you screw in the park brake piston? I was going to change my rear pads as well and didn't want to miss a step.
It is my understanding that the shims are done at the factory to compensate for uneven caliper mounts on the swing arm to align the caliper with the rotor. If there are shims on the caliper mounts, I would definitely put them back when assembling it.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT Chris, I think Anthony is referring to the shims on the back side of the pads that you re-used. I might be wrong though, please clarify.
I got lucky and found used actual shop manuals on eBay. The digital versions are available online. Here is a link to one source: canammanuals.com/can-am-spyder-manual.htm
Chris I for the life of me can’t find EBC pads from Bajaron , I did find them and bought a pair, my question is it necessary to slot and bevel the leading edge of the new pads?
My understanding is that the slot and beveling helps with heat buildup and cleaning the dust off of the pad and rotor. My guess is that the OEM pads are built this way so that is the recommendation. I would say that it is definitely not mandatory or they would come like that.
Another great video...thank you! How many miles did you get out of the rear pads? The O-ring...did you not need it after all or does it go after shims instead of before?
Thanks, I should have mentioned that. It has 24,000 miles. I looked at the parts diagram and it doesn’t show an O-ring on the speed sensor. I did put one on it after the shims, mostly because there is a slot for it on the speed sensor and if nothing else, it will keep the sensor centered in the hole.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT great idea. Thanks for the info. I'm at 19k on my 2014 RT Limited so I'll probably be using this video by the end of the summer. Keep up the great videos!!
Hi Sir Thank you for the video. I will be doing mine soon. I have a separate question. What you use as holder for your phone? We have the same RT and I’m looking for a phone holder and drink holder. Any advice will be great. Thank you
Christian Figueroa, I made a video on the dash mount. You can go to my channel and scroll down to it. In the description of that video are links to all of that stuff. The only difference between then and now is I switched from using an X-grip phone holder to a Arkon Road Vice. I really like it. Here is the link: Arkon RoadVise Phone Holder for iPhone 7 6S 6 Plus iPhone 7 6S 6 5S Galaxy S7 S6 Note 5 Retail Black www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQEX7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NiJREbGKGY9KB
