Very good detailed video. I've done well over 100 rear wheel removals and have down to a procedure where you leave the caliper all installed to the bracket and wiggle it off the rotor as you jack up the rear and after the axle is removed and belt slid off rear sprocket. I do not relieve any adjuster tension and after reassembly the tension and adjustment of the belt will be identical to pre-disassembly. It's a bit of a 3 handed job the first few times but I can have the wheel off, out, back in and torqued in about 11 minutes... Next one I do I'll have my buddy video my procedure. I do suggest everyone does your way first for sure, so they understand to shortcuts I take. Nonetheless a big thanks for taking the time to share your procedure! 😎
Thank you for making these video's. They help tremendously. I do everything myself instead of paying a lot of money to let someone else do it. This really helps.
Another Great Tutorial ... I did my Belt Alignment recently! It took me about half a dozen goes to get it just right ... It's now around 1.5 to 2mm out from the rear sprocket flange. When I bought it ... It was riding hard up against the flange! I told the dealer & he said ... Not to worry about it! Just Typical hey ... Ryde safe brother 👍😁🤘🙏🇦🇺 Beanie
I followed your instructions and replaced the rear tire - saved $150-- worked perfectly --now i just need to check the belt allignment and maybe adjust. many thanks wayne
Wow 😳 a lot of work and effort put into one damn tire. I’ll just stick to the dealer installing my tires from here on out. I will just focus on changing my brakes and oil change etc on my vehicles. To scared my tires might brake loose and fly down the road. Great video! Cheers 🍺
It’s expensive at the dealer… I was really apprehensive but after a few hours … I did my other RT too! With 2 of these RT…. I can’t be running around town dropping 300$ for oil changes and 500$ for rear tire changes…
Nice video. Always nice to see how other folks do stuff. I don't see any reason to disconnect the ride height sensor rod. The only reason to do it is if you disconnect the shock. Since you didn't do that. No need to do the other. I had a Kumho tire on my STL. Hated it. Interesting that you where happy with yours.
Thanks, you are correct on the ride sensor, it didn’t need unhooked. I was just being extra cautious. I had no issues with the kuhmo until it was about wore out. It got a little “slippery”. Thanks for watching
Another great video. I am going to be changing out my rear tire after this riding season and I have a question as to removing the HUB. I am confused as to, " if I have to remove it or not", before taking it the dealer to have the new tire put on. And also, do only MC shops change these tires out, or can I utilize a regular tire shop? I was thinking about your Q5's while on my ride yesterday, and thinking this is going to be my front replacements after this season as well. Your videos are such a great help for us newby Spyder owners. TY.
Just got done taking off the rear wheel using a combination of your video and Finless Bob's. Kudos to both of you guys! Biggest difference I see is the removal of the ride height sensor. On your video it seems that you don't have the spinning capture nut problem that Bob and I encountered. I had to get a small vice-grip to hold onto the nut. How did you avoid this? Also I see that you didn't need to use anything to hold the capture nut when you put it back on.
I saw a tip on tightening the wheels. If you let the tire down on the ground some, the force will cause the axel to push forwards. The adjusters will then be tight.
always good to see people wrenching on their own stuff. I am curious the brand of tires you went with....couldn't quite make out the name. Thanks again for the vids
geep, The fronts are Vredestein Quatrac 5, 175/55 R15, They make a 165 also. I love those things! It rides and handles much better than the stock Kendas.
I think I have the twin to Own It’s R/T and also Have the Verdestine tires and and ran them all last summer, like the man says you won’t believe the difference in the performance! So nice......
Enjoyed your tips on how to remove the rear tire and install a new one. I'm interested in the highway pegs you have installed on your RT. What is the make and model of the pegs?
Howard Hexum, they are NBV Highway Brackets from Lamonster with Kuryakyn Dually ISO Pegs. Here is a link to my video on installing them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mzbm4SD1GOQ.html And a link to Lamonster’s store: www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-rt-nbv-highway-brackets-pegs-lamonster/ I really like these.
Bill Pettit, it is not really a split rim. The left side of the hub, (the half that the sprocket slides into), is bolted to the wheel which has the right half of the hub built into it. I will probably go ahead and mount the other new tire onto the original wheel to be ready to install when the Kenda is wore out.
I wound up having to replace the rear bearings on my 3rd tire an RT43 I replaced a Michelin after 24k miles on a 2012 RT. I now have a 14RTSE6 LTD around 24k had a kumho almost 12k on it put an arachnid dealer gave me a good price on. Hoping my bearings last a little longer. Did not know about the change in the wheels.
Wife's 2012 RT LTD comes with the 14" front tires. Local auto tire shop where I bought the tires says they can't balance them because they don't have the proper equipment for that rim. Do you bother having your tires balanced? Second question. When looking at the rear axle, it looks like part of it is cut out on the threads past the nut where you can kinda flare them out to keep the nut from backing off. Is that how it's designed?
I would definitely get them balanced. You might try different tire shops. Lamonster sells a liquid balancer that might be an option as well. The rear axle nut doesn’t need anything besides the proper torque. I’m not sure on the pre-14’s but mine is 166ft/lbs.
This is the first video I have seen where the lower rear shock bolt was not removed. Apparently, the wheel can slide out from under the fender of nd RT or F3L without disconnecting the shock. Correct?
Correct, I've done three rear tires and have not un-bolted the rear shock yet. No need to unhook the ride position sensor as well, as long as you don't take the bolt out of the shock.
I also am not a fan of Kenda tires even though I have got over 12000 out of my original rear tire. I would like to put a different brand on my machine but dealers seem to be unwilling to mount them. Can a regular tire shop mount and balance them?
Scott Harrington, wow, I’ve got not quite 6,000 on this one and it is almost bald already. I ride pretty hard and am sure that has a lot to do with my tire life. When I took my wheel to a Spyder dealer to mount the Kuhmo, they started in on the “car tire lecture”. I interrupted him and told him I didn’t come for a lecture and if they didn’t want to do it, I would find someone else that would. They mounted it. I know a regular tire shop can mount and balance the front tires, I am not sure if their machine will mount the rear but I know they can’t balance the rear because the axle diameter is too small for the machine. I am planning on mounting this Vredestein myself and using beads for balancing it. I’ll do a video.
paul casey, 205/65 R15 m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+5&width=205%2F&ratio=65&diameter=15&cameFrom=selectSize&partnum=065HR5QT5
No, as long as you don’t have the parking brake set, the caliper will slip off the rotor and right back on. The sensor doesn’t need disconnected as long as you don’t disconnect the rear shock.
It is a fact that petroleum based grease shouldn’t be used on rubber or silicone. I thought that was nonsense for the longest time but it’s actually true.
Is that the new Kenda K-20 Kanine tire they just came out with a few months ago or the old one ? The new Kenda tire exerts a better rubber and tire quality and design for better traction and up to 3 times the life span!!! At a cheaper price for the tires too. I found all three for around $227. Might try them when my factory kendas are wore out on my 2018 RT
It is the old one. It came with the wheel I bought. I’ve put 5,000 miles on it in the last month and in probably 2,000 more it will need replacing. Grrrr
I already have a Vredestein waiting to replace thIs one. I’ll see what the reports are on these new Kenda’s before diving into them. I have a serious dislike for the Kenda brand right now.
Do you have a list of different bolt Torque spec without watching the entire video. I have watched all your videos and I am sorry, I should have written the torque spec's down when I was watching. Thanks, Gary
Thanks for posting your video's, I also have a 2014 RTS and have been doing my own maintaince since finding your RU-vid channel. I start every maintaince job with watching how you did it first. Thank you.
We are going to take a similar trip this summer out west from Tennessee to Sturgis and on to Seattle. Are there any places that you recommend to see and any places you would by pass?
Using your videos to help me learn to do my own work so I'm going to ask you for more help I need to pull the wheel to replace the rotor and rear brakes. Do I need to pull the hitch? If so, what can you tell me about that? It is the BRP hitch.
I haven’t actually seen the brp hitch but they are all pretty much the same. Yes you will need to remove the hitch to get the rear tire off. Just make sure you don’t mess with the axle adjusters in the ends of the swing arm and you won’t change the alignment or belt tension.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT Well shoot, I was hoping you'd had some specific experience with this one. Through bolt (axle) is out but I can't get the hitch loose. Not sure now what I need to do. Can't seem to budge it. Thanks for the help.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT got it with a little more force. Now problems getting the rotor separated from the speed sensor ring. Little Allen head screws but very tight. Soaking now. Will see what happens later. Also had a brake pad retaining spring fall out that I never saw so I don't know how to get it back in. Wish I could post a picture but not sure how to do that here. Opposite end from where the screw comes out I think because the retaining spring on that end is still there.
Robert Fitta I installed the new Vredestein on the rear a few weeks ago and l love it. It is a 205/65r15, so it is a little narrower and taller but it rides great and my speedo is less than 1 mile an hour off now as opposed to almost 3 before. I ordered mine from tire rack. Don’t fill in the part where they ask you what vehicle it is for, they might not sell it to you. Just skip that part of the ordering process. Here is a link: m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?message=singleSize&tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Quatrac+5&width=205%2F&ratio=65&diameter=15&cameFrom=selectSize&partnum=065HR5QT5
@@davidvuchetich3045 I took it to my local tire shop to get it mounted. They couldn’t get it on their balancer so we just used glass balancing beads. I am going to pick up a manual tire changer from Harbor Freight and do my own next time. I’ll do a video on it.
I don't trust anyone wrenching on my vehicles, if it is something I can do. Did you remove the height sensor when you readjusted the belt tracking? Did you remove it when you did the rear tire recently?. Do you really need to if you don't remove the shock bolt?
I did remove it the for that tire change, but you are correct, it doesn’t need to be removed unless you take the shock loose. I changed the rear tire again and did not take the ride position sensor off.
@@ItsYoursOWNIT I put OEM Kendas on the front, I was advised to stay OEM as the properties of the tire is matched to the vehicle. I call BS on that but I havent researched the front tires enough to safely go to another brand.
They are great! They wear evenly, improve the ride and handling, and will last much longer than the OEM Kenda tires. These tires are one of the best things I’ve done to this.
