Can't believe what SLICK 50 did to my engine!!--Dry Crankcase Test! 

Thanks for the video idea.

@@ProjectFarm be cool see an update video.

@@ProjectFarm yes, please follow up on this. I was also a believer and would love to see the comparison.

Does the current recipe have Teflon in it like the original?

@@bradsims1933 No according to Google

You are welcome!

I need to put together a video on this. It's extremely handy for removing ATF is accidentally overfilling the transmission.

hahaha I didn't notice that. Just thought it was a mini compressor and was putting air into the case and blowing it out. Nice eye lol

potheads can identify.. works like a bong...

I want to see this conversion video. Do post a link. I use suction pump but those are small and slow for oil. Need a powerful one and i do have an exact similiar air vacum.

Blew my mind. At first I was like "Is he literally about to just suck that oil into his vacuum pump? You can do that??" Thankfully I saw his interesting jar attachment before i made any brash decisions.

Great idea! I'd like to see the damage! Seems like a great future episode! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

agreed

i was about to mention that too, I want to see the wear'n'tear on these motors too

The slick 50 engine did not die from the extreme heat like the SAE30 engine, maybe the engine isn't too damaged, or damaged at all.

@Rattlerjack1 I suspect baring let go due to "Cold welding" to the mating surface, and spun it. I would bet the one that overheated would run again

Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback.

Great point! Thanks for watching the video and for commenting!

Project Farm Your videos are truly fantastic... thanks for sharing.. Love to watch them and learn ....

Temperature readings are the real interesting data set here. Time-until-failure could mean anything. Even temp@failure feels more interesting. Why is it cooler? Maybe that's its true benefit and usefulness to an engine.

If I remember correctly the original slick 50 added a teflon coating to the engine

3Ddee stanced mower

That lawnmower is 🍚

3Ddee nitrous is better

Adam Salchenberg😀😁😂🤣😃😄😅😆😉😊😋😎😍😘😗😙😚☺🙂🤗😇🤠🤡🤥🤓🤔😐😑😶🙄😏😣😥😮🤐😯😪😫😴😌😛😜😝🤤😒😓😔😕🙃🤑😲😷🤒🤕🤢🤧☹🙁😖😞😟😤😢😭😦😧😨😩😬😰😱😳😵😡😠☻😈👿👹👺💀☠👻👽👾🤖💩😺😸😹😻😼😽🙀😿😾🙈🙉🙊👦👧👨👩👴👵👶👱👮👲👳👷👸🤴💂🕵🎅🤶👰🤵👼💆💇🙍🙎🙅🙆💁🤷🙋🤦🙇🙌🙏🗣👤👥🤰🚶🏃👯💃🕺🕴👫👬👭💏👨‍❤️‍💋‍👨👩‍❤️‍💋‍👩💑👨‍❤️‍👨👩‍❤️‍👩👪👨‍👩‍👧👨‍👩‍👧‍👦👨‍👩‍👦‍👦👨‍👩‍👧‍👧👨‍👨‍👦👨‍👨‍👧👨‍👨‍👧‍👦👨‍👨‍👦‍👦👨‍👨‍👧‍👧👩‍👩‍👦👩‍👩‍👧👩‍👩‍👧‍👦👩‍👩‍👦‍👦👩‍👩‍👧‍👧👨‍👨‍👦‍👦🤳👈👉☝️👆🖕👇✌🤞🖖🤘🤙🖑🖐✋👌👍👎🖒🖓✊👊🤛🤜🤚👋👏👐🖎✍🤝💅👂👃👣👀👁👅👄💋💘❤💓💔💕💖💗💙💚💛💜🖤💝💞💟❣💌💤💢💣💥💦💨💫💬🗨🗯💭🕳👓🕶👔👕👖👗👘👙👚👛👜👝🛍🎒👞👟👠👡👢👑👒🎩🎓📿💄💍💎🐵🐒🦍🐶🐕🐩🐺🦊🐱🐈🦁🐯🐅🐆🐴🐎🦌🦄🐮🐂🐃🐄🐷🐖🐗🐽🐏🐑🐐🐪🐫🐘🦏🐭🐁🐀🐹🐰🐇🐿🦇🐻🐨🐼🐾🦃🐔🐓🐣🐤🐥🐦🐧🕊🦅🦆🦉🐸🐊🐢🦎🐍🐲🐉🐳🐋🐬🐟🐠🐡🦈🐙🐚🦀🦐🦑🦋🐌🐛🐜🐝🐞🕷🕸🦂💐🌸💮🏵🌹🥀🌺🌻🌼🌷⚘🌱🌲🌳🌴🌵🌾🌿☘🍀🍁🍂🍃🍇🍈🍉🍊🍋🍌🍍🍎🍏🍐🍑🍒🍓🍅🥝🥑🍆🥔🥕🌽🌶🥒🍄🥜🌰🍞🥐🥖🥞🧀🍖🍗🥓🍔🍟🍕🌭🌮🌯🥙🥚🍳🥘🍲🥗🍿🍱🍘🍙🍚🍛🍜🍝🍠🍢🍣🍤🍥🍡🍦🍧🍨🍩🍪🎂🍰🍫🍬🍭🍮🍯🍼🥛☕🍵🍶🍾🍷🍸🍹🍺🍻🥂🥃🍽🍴🥄🔪🏺🌍🌎🌏🌐🗺🏔⛰🌋🗻🏕🏖🏜🏝🏞🏟🏛🏗🏘🏙🏚🏠🏡🏢🏣🏤🏥🏦🏨🏩🏪🏫🏬🏭🏯🏰💒🗼🗽⛪🕌🕍⛩🕋⛲⛺🌁🌃🌄🌅🌆🌇🌉⛼♨🌌🎠🎡🎢💈🎪🎭🖼🎨🎰🚂🚃🚄🚅🚆🚇🚈🚉🚊🚝🚞🚋🚌🚍🚎🚏🚐🚑🚒🚓🚔🚕🚖🚗🚘🚙🚚🚛⛟🚜🚲⛽🛣🛤🚨🚥🚦🚧🛑🛴🛵⚓⛵🚣🛶🚤🛳⛴🛥🚢✈🛩🛫🛬💺🚁🚟🚠🚡🚀🛰🛎🚪🛌🛏🛋🚽🚿🛀🛁⌛⏳⌚⏰⏱⏲🕰🕛🕧🕐🕜🕑🕝🕒🕞🕓🕟🕔🕠🕕🕡🕖🕢🕗🕣🕘🕤🕙🕥🕚🕦🌑🌒🌓🌔🌕🌖🌗🌘🌙🌚🌛🌜🌡☀☉🌝🌞⭐🌟🌠⛆☇☈⛈☁🌟🌣🌤🌥🌦🌧🌨🌩🌪🌫🌬🌀🌈🌂☂☔⛱⚡❄☃⛄⛇☄🔥💧🌊🎃🎄🎆🎇✨🎈🎉🎊🎋🎍🎎🎏🎐🎑🎀🎁🎗🎟🎫🎖🏆🏅🥇🥈🥉⚽⚾🏀🏐🏈🏉🎾🎱🎳🏏🏑🏒🏓🏸🥊🥋⛳🏌⛸🎣🎽🎿⛷🏂🏄🏇🏊⛹🏋🚴🚵🏎🏍🤸🤼🤽🤾🤺🥅🤹🎯🎮🕹🎲♠♥♦♣🃏🀄🎴🔇🔈🔉🔊🕨🕩🕪📢📣📯🔔🕭🔕🎼🎵🎶♩🎙🎚🎛🎤🎧📻🎷🎸🎹🎺🎻🥁📱📲☎☏📞📟📠🔋🔌💻🖥🖨⌨🖱🖲💽💾💿📀🎥🎞📽🎬📺📷📸📹📼🔍🔎🔬🔭📡🕯💡🔦🏮📔📕📖📗📘📙📚📓📒📃📜📄📰🗞📑🔖🏷💰💴💵💶💷💸💳💱💲✉📧📨📩📤📥📦📫📪📬📭📮🗳✏✒🖋🖊🖌🖍📝💼📁📂🗂📅📆🗒🗓📇📈📉📊📋📌📍📎🖇📏📐✂🗃🗄🗑🔒🔓🔏🔐🔑🗝🔨⛏⚒🛠🗡⚔🔫🏹🛡🔧🔩⚙🗜⚗⚖🔗⛓💉💊🏁🏳🏴🚩🚬⚰⚱🗿🛢🔮🛒🏧🚮🚰♿🚹🚺🚻🚼🚾🛂🛃🛄🛅⚠🚸⛔🚫🛇🚳🚭🚯🚱🚷📵🔞☠☡☢☣⬆↗➡↘⬇↙⬅↖↕↔↩↪⤴⤵🔃🔄🔙🔚🔛🔜🔝🛐⚛🕉✡☸☯☦☮🕎🔯♻📛⚜🔰🔱⭕✅☑☐☒✔✖❌❎➕➖➗➰➿〽✳✴❇⁉❓❔❕❗〰♈♉♊♋♌♍♎♏♐♑♒♓⛎🔀🔁🔂▶⏩⏭⏯◀⏪⏮🔼⏫🔽⏬⏸⏹⏺⏏🎦🔅🔆📶📳📴🔟💯🔠🔡🔢🔣🔤🅰🆎🅱🆑🆒🆓ℹ🆔Ⓜ🆕🆖🅾🆗🅿🆘🆙🆚🈁🈂🈷🈶🈯🉐🈹🈚🈲🉑🈸🈴🈳㊗㊙🈺🈵▫◾◽◼◻⬛⬜🔶🔷🔸🔹🔺🔻💠🔘🔲🔳⚬⚪⚫🔴🔵⛌⛍⛐⛒⛕⛖⛗⛘⛙⛚⛛⛜⛝⛞⛠⛡⛶⛿⚐⚑⛤⛥⛦⛧🛆🕀🕁🕂🕃🕄🕆🕇⛀⛁⛂⛃⛉⛊☖☗⚆⚇⚈⚉♚♛♜♝♞♟♔♕♖♗♘♙☚☛☜☞☟♪♫♬♭♮♯⚊⚋⚌⚍⚎⚏☰☱☲☳☴☵☶☷♺♼♽♲♳♴♵♶♷♸♹⚲⚿⛣⛨⛫⛬⛭⛮⛯⛻☍♰️♱️⚳⚴⚵⚶⚷⚸⚹⚺⚻⚼⛋⛢☊☋☌☿⚝☽☾♃♄♅♆♇⚕⚚☬️☭☼⚞⚟☫☤☥☧☨☩♀⚢♂⚣⚦♁⚤⚥⚧⚨⚩⚭⚮⚯☙⚀⚁⚂⚃⚄⚅⛾♾🇦🇨🇦🇩🇦🇪🇦🇫🇦🇬🇦🇮🇦🇱🇦🇲🇦🇴🇦🇶🇦🇷🇦🇸🇦🇹🇦🇺🇦🇼🇦🇽🇦🇿🇧🇦🇧🇧🇧🇩🇧🇪🇧🇫🇧🇬🇧🇭🇧🇮🇧🇯🇧🇱🇧🇲🇧🇳🇧🇴🇧🇶🇧🇷🇧🇸🇧🇹🇧🇼🇧🇾🇧🇿🇨🇦🇨🇨🇨🇩🇨🇫🇨🇬🇨🇭🇨🇮🇨🇰🇨🇱🇨🇲🇨🇳🇨🇴🇨🇷🇨🇺🇨🇻🇨🇼🇨🇽🇨🇾🇨🇿🇩🇪🇩🇯🇩🇰🇩🇲🇩🇴🇩🇿🇪🇨🇪🇪🇪🇬🇪🇭🇪🇷🇪🇸🇪🇹🇪🇺🇫🇮🇫🇯🇫🇰🇫🇲🇫🇴🇫🇷🇬🇦🇬🇧🇬🇩🇬🇪🇬🇫🇬🇬🇬🇭🇬🇮🇬🇱🇬🇲🇬🇳🇬🇵🇬🇶🇬🇷🇬🇸🇬🇹🇬🇺🇬🇼🇬🇾🇭🇰🇭🇲🇭🇳🇭🇷🇭🇹🇭🇺🇮🇨🇮🇩🇮🇪🇮🇱🇮🇲🇮🇳🇮🇴🇮🇶🇮🇷🇮🇸🇮🇹🇯🇪🇯🇲🇯🇴🇯🇵🇰🇪🇰🇬🇰🇭🇰🇮🇰🇲🇰🇳🇰🇵🇰🇷🇰🇼🇰🇾🇰🇿🇱🇦🇱🇧🇱🇨🇱🇮🇱🇰🇱🇷🇱🇸🇱🇹🇱🇺🇱🇻🇱🇾🇲🇦🇲🇨🇲🇩🇲🇪🇲🇬🇲🇭🇲🇰🇲🇱🇲🇲🇲🇳🇲🇴🇲🇵🇲🇶🇲🇷🇲🇸🇲🇹🇲🇺🇲🇻🇲🇼🇲🇽🇲🇾🇲🇿🇳🇦🇳🇨🇳🇪🇳🇫🇳🇬🇳🇮🇳🇱🇳🇴🇳🇵🇳🇷🇳🇺🇳🇿🇴🇲🇵🇦🇵🇪🇵🇫🇵🇬🇵🇭🇵🇰🇵🇱🇵🇲🇵🇳🇵🇷🇵🇸🇵🇹🇵🇼🇵🇾🇶🇦🇷🇪🇷🇴🇷🇸🇷🇺🇷🇼🇸🇦🇸🇧🇸🇨🇸🇩🇸🇪🇸🇬🇸🇭🇸🇮🇸🇰🇸🇱🇸🇲🇸🇳🇸🇴🇸🇷🇸🇸🇸🇹🇸🇻🇸🇽🇸🇾🇸🇿🇹🇦🇹🇨🇹🇩🇹🇫🇹🇬🇹🇭🇹🇯🇹🇰🇹🇱🇹🇲🇹🇳🇹🇴🇹🇷🇹🇹🇹🇻🇹🇼🇹🇿🇺🇦🇺🇬🇺🇸🇺🇾🇺🇿🇻🇦🇻🇨🇻🇪🇻🇬🇻🇮🇻🇳🇻🇺🇼🇫🇼🇸🇽🇰🇾🇪🇾🇹🇿🇦🇿🇲🇿🇼1234567890qwertyuiopasdfghjklzxcvbnmQWERTYUIOPASDFGHJKLZXCVBNM+×÷=/_[]!@#$%^&*()-'":;,?`~\|{} €£¥₩°•○●□■♤♡◇♧☆▪¤《》¡¿?.

3Ddee mower going sideways...

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks!

I WATCH MANY OF YOUR TESTS THAT YOU DO THEY ARE JUST SUPER,BEST OF ALL WAS THE OIL TEST AMSOIL AND PENSOIL THAT WAS GREAT I HAVE HARD TIME TO GET AMSOIL SO I PUT PENSOIL ULTRA PLATINUM ,THANKS ALOT KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK,

Good point, but an inadequate bonding time shouldn't cause that engine to fail in half the time, right?

@@GunNut37086 yeas that is perplexing. Wonder if their is a cure time because the temperature was far better with slick fifty.

@@timewithchaplainken3916 That's the part that confused me the most. The temp was SO low when the Slick 50 engine crapped out compared to the other one. That has to mean something.

The slick 50 does need to properly bond first.

@@GunNut37086 if paint is put on a frozen surface, it will just come right off. Likewise, Slick 50 deposits a layer of teflon that depends on a lengthy heat cure for good adhesion.

Thanks for the feedback.

You are correct, I used the stuff back then and it has to be run for some time at operating temperature in order to coat the engine - This experiment does nothing other than ruin two perfectly good motors for nothing. I hate waste!

Thanks for the suggestion.

LOL! Thanks for commenting.

Oh that is so funny!

LOL

PETER PIPER good one!

It's like boxers fate in animal farm. All the other animals were happy that he was being taken to the "hospital", then he just never came back.

haahaaaa cough haha

😄

Smart man. My pressure washer started leaking at the hose base fitting. Darn threads were tapped too small, so they only threaded the hose fitting 1-1/2 threads deep into the pump, and it broke out when the threads rusted. Workers at the factory were probably told to just thread them in enough, and not to crack pump housings. Why would they possibly want to go to the effort to tap the pumps a bit and ship a properly manufactured product? I threaded it back in a bit further but it's still leaking, and I'm not going any further and cracking the pump housing. I'll get around to properly tapping the female pump threads or reducing the male threads on the fitting some day. Read about a guy online with the same pressure washer. Guy was pissed when he lent it to his bro-in-law, who cracked the pump trying to tighten the same fitting to stop a leak. I'd bet that's happened a number of times with the same machine, with people who have no concept that you can't just keep cranking tapered fittings into cast parts.

LOL Nice :)

@@og1ie LMAO

Thanks, will do.

can tell it was 4 years ago. Thats a compliment. He's driven

This guy has a true passion for what he does. Best brand comparison channel on YT

He is a true Gentleman!

That's a person who REALLY appreciates his supporters. Instead of just saying that he appreciates his subscribers once in a while at the beginning of a video, he actually proves it. Protect Farm is, without question, one of the best content creators on RU-vid.

lol. Yes it does! You've got a great channel! Thanks for checking out the video!

If it’s the same commercial I remember seeing, the oil pan was removed and they had a continuous water spray on the crank/connecting rods.

I don’t remember the commercial lasting for hours😂it was a stunt and I assumed it lasted less then one second longer than they filmed it running without oil.

damn I remember that commercial too, when he mentioned it, that brought back memories.

electronicsNmore Is that the commercial where they went to the desert and drove a Viper around a track until it ran out of gas while they took the cylinder heads off another engine running on a stand and dumped sand onto the exposed valve train?

agreed!

Ain't got no oil in it mmm hmm

@@stevenbrisson343 I get that reference. Fine job.

Sounds like slick 50 just siezed the pistion against the cylinder. And the conventional started a wicked knock before failure, could both be siezed yes. Tho ima take a shot in the dark n say conventional one melted/ground down the races/bearings vs slick 50 which seems to have siezed on more of a low oil situation. Only way to test that without pulling em apart is to add oil, flip mover on its side, push on blade while hitting with a hammer "freed way to many siezed mowers with that trick" and see running condition after. Both will be on their way out, but I'd take a chance in saying slick 50 is in better internal condition

@@mrmagdump9085 Good idea. One or both engines might even run after cooling down, without even breaking them free, and I am very interested in condition after running dry as this is actually more important than time running dry.

lol. Nice!

S T O P ! It Stephen King for lawn mowers

@@nik_kot Are you SURE DUN DUNNNnn

Thanks for the positive comment. I'm saving up for new engines, but can't afford to go through too many of them. Thanks again!

Yes, this is a regular guy doing an "intuive" test. This is not Consumer Reports. Many testing procedures done on YT lack thorough scientific prep, nonetheless entertaining and informative.

Project Farm You got it. I like your videos, they're still very organic, you're not bought off like so many on the Tube. Do what you can, have fun(cuz when you stop having fun we will too),and those of us that matter will keep watchin. 😊

Maybe you should create a funding page so we can all send you a few $$$. So you don't have to pay for the motors all by yourself.

couldn't of said it better myself 👍👍

Wow, thank you!

Love the detail also.

me too

Thank you!

Thank you for the feedback!

i do the same thing with an empty windshield washer jug and a shop vac

I really like all of his testing set-ups. This one caught my attention as well... not making any mess while draining

I've got a pump the hooks up to my cordless drill. Works great. (I maintain 3 2011 Silverados, 1 Ford van, 1 gmc van, one dodge van, a Ford F550 dump truck and 2 tractors. I change the oil in all of them in about five hours with that "drill pump thing")

I, uh, may have screenshot it so I can copy it!

Thanks for sharing.

I'm sure he freed them up at some point

Seriously I am very sad when I see a machine mistreated but thought that I was the only person.

Race cars are beaten do death. This is the life high performance engines.

@@scottjones7279 same im happy im not the only one

Thank you

I too find the temperature variant perplexing considering the outcome. Though both mowers seem alike, there is no way that two used motors could be alike internally. While using two new motors seems too costly, perhaps two refurbished engines, where preexisting damage could be noted and repaired, or at least be certain that one engine didn't have a notable disadvantage at the outset. I think there was a cylinder wall blemish, or a broken ring,or a blockage perhaps. As well, the warm up time, with the additive in place and prior to draining, could be extended to as much as three tanks of fuel, which at normal rpm should last three hours.(This would give the Slick-50 time to fill micro pits and cracks, and to bake a thin coating on the moving parts.) But a very good and thoughtful test. You do a great service with these videos. Thanks 👍

Doesn't Slick 50 patent to claim it leaves a teflon coating? If that cures properly I could see even on a microscopic level heat exchange would change a great deal, but probably with the oil retaining that missing heat because it can't release it into the case. It has to go somewhere.

That isn’t the most accurate way to read temp. If you noticed that when the engine is walking across the floor the temp goes up and down by 200 deg as the temp gun scans across the head

@@HolidayArt fair point. The tear down would be interesting to see. The dino juice engine may have worn longer causing it to seize later. The lower running temp does say a lot for Slick 50 though.

Thank you for the feedback

There's silicone in Slick 50? I thought it was just extra-thick oil to improve the viscosity of old worn-out motor oil.

@@deusexaethera I might be wrong, it might be Teflon. But the results stand.

I'm pretty sure it's not silicone. Silicone will destroy O2 sensors.

@@TickleFingers: That might be why Slick 50 had to reformulate when fuel injection became common. I honestly have no idea, just speculating.

You are welcome!

@@ProjectFarm Years ago I used a snake oil additive called Bitron. It did show improvement after two applications with regular oil but none with full synthetic in my vehicle.

Thank you very much!

it's people's, not peoples

case in point

Thank you!

I do agree.

mindtouchone he needs to be put in line for sainthood

yes he does some great test. ive tried to watch all of them when possible.

that slick 50 power steering additive worked great on my old buick electra. no noise or leaks after 1st use. my car said ahhhhh thank you. 👈🏁

Thank you!

I used the original back in 1990. It was gray and thick. I remember it have very specific use requirements. Immediately drive at highway speeds for 30 miles, something like that. Also remember there stories going around that it clogged oil filters because the size of the Teflon particles. Among the motor heads I hung out with at the time, the general consensus was to change your oil/filter after the first 50 miles, the idea being that the Teflon would have bonded to the moving parts by then, and your filter was now running in bypass due to it being clogged. Absolutely zero science was used to support that, it's just what made sense to us at the time.

@@ProjectFarm The old Slick Fifty was a different formula than what is available now. There were legal issues when the company was sold. The only place that I know of where you can still get the original is Australia

Absolutely spot on. I always used the original stuff and never had a scrap of bother with lubricated surfaces with any of my engines. The only problem that I ever had was a broken valve spring which neither I or my local engine restorer had ever seen. My engines were still running like new long after the bodies returned to mother earth. The stuff you are using is nothing like the stuff I used.

@@lifequest7453 I tried to find a distributor for bishops original and their is no U.S. distribution ?

Invalid test sir.....

I wanna think it ran out of gas cause that didnt seem right

I agree...I'm thinking it ran out of gas, because the temp was low. A siezed engine would be hot.

I agree. There could be a number of reasons the engine quit. Just as there could be a number of reasons the earth is warming. real science isn’t just one and done. And it is because I say it is the engine should be torn down and the root cause of the failure should be determined without any doubt before saying Slick 50 doesn’t work

@@tonydamiani7353 Just remember this, the same people in the 70's who were screaming Global Cooling, Time, Newsweek, NY Times, Washington Post, are the same ones screaming Global warming today.

realflow100 Even if he can free it up, it will be scrap. The only thing that slowed it down was metal on metal friction against the bearings..which will now be worn so badly it will knock like crazy

I agree...both engines are ruined. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

Did you try to dummy-crank the engine just to see what would happen? I've seen a lot of "seized" lawnmowers start up after they've cooled down and continue running for a good while. sometimes even right after it seized it was able to be started back up. it might just of need to cool down on the slick 50 one from piston expansion causing it to press so tightly on the cylinder walls that it seized temporarily. you never know. it could be completely free when you try to crank it. as if nothing was wrong. or it could be locked solid.. about 50/50 chance of either to be honest.

Good thoughts. BUT it still stopped sooner, for what it's worth.

realflow100 b

I saw that too. Thats probably why it last longer ?

Mr. Trustafox, Great point! I should have established a baseline for both engines! I'll do that next time. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

Project Farm you really need to get two brand new identical engines and do baseline tests with them. but then most importantly run them both for a day straight with one having slick50 in it. because I'm sure I read that slick50 needs to be run in on the engine as over time it builds up a thin layer coating of a new compound that is where the real Val e of slick50 comes in I'm sure.

MrTrustafox, while we can't go back and do a control on these engines, it can easily be a test done on one engine to see a before and after to show that Slick 50 really does or doesn't lower the temperature. It can be a test by itself without a torture test.

Spectt84, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

Yes thanks, you're the man!!!

I’m sorry I didn’t see your message yet but I’ll let you yeah mom I love you and you have a great nice day from being JASON

Lol

Considering how much time he spends on his testing and experimenting it's amazing he still has a wife. 😁

Lol

@@bmaxdlux3169 That all just keeps him occupied, and out of trouble.

@@ProjectFarm Your wife must be a very patient woman and love you quite a lot. I don't know how you can explain these things to her. Good luck and God speed, my friend.

I guess your right. this is not the old formula I had used in my old Datsun long time ago. that Slick50 worked great. he had to buy Slick50 engine treatment. www.slick50store.com/

I have a bottle of Slick 50 that i use for lubricating my bicycles, and it's supposed to be shaken, when shaken it has a cream colour, which is the Teflon. His was just the motor oil base with the teflon stuck to the bottom of the bottle, I assume..

While yes, it's not the Slick 50 of old, and it invalidates some of his reasoning, leading him to a hypothesis for this test, the old Slick 50 could not continue. The old formulae was so harmful to modern engines, that they left the shelves. It even made it on the news in Utah and fans of it were buying the last of what they could get. Later, Slick 50 emerged on the market again meeting current standards and criteria. What is it now versus then other than approved again? I don't know.

Bull chips they tried to steal the formula and got sued, and lost but won the name only not the formula.

robsycko Who'd want the old forumla unless maybe it's good on old equipment? The old formula was archaic already in the eighties.

I was wondering that, too. Maybe one motor was closer to the end of its lifespan..

My thought exactly. Also, since they both look used who knows the difference in run time on each engine.

He has changed his testing techniques substantially since this video. But yeah I totally agree I was like wait did he not run baselines with just oil 😝

Thanks for sharing.

And I was told that making the oil changes on time with good oil

Clearly you haven't seen the motorkote oil additive episode.

@@ProjectFarm this channel sucks... generic answers all over the place... robots? AI? or dont give af?

@@ProjectFarm On my '72 350's I use to use slick 50, had no issues, I now use Bestline after online research, and I saw your video comparison also on Bestline. I have 3 - '72 Monte Carlos, and one is a 402. I use Penzoil (1st choice) 10-30, and 2nd choice is Quaker State, same velocity. But I don't race the cars, as they are everyday ones for me. 2 are backups just incase daily goes down...FYI. Sure enjoyed your Ethonyl gas video.

lol! Thank you

Most definitely, and this is even at harbor freight, they will play your game for ever!

@@ProjectFarm gotta protect your investments don't you buddy lol.

@@ProjectFarm It's probably in another video I haven't watched yet, but can you tell me what pump you're using to drain the oil from those mowers?

i actually read that in project farm's voice.

Thanks for the constructive feedback.

Slick 50 advertised that there was no visible materials. Lie, I bought some to treat all my vehicles and my welder. When I emptied the slick 50 into my welder after treating both of my vehicles I found a thick brown sludge in the bottom of the bottle. When I went back and looked at the others the same thing was in each one. I took several with me to Wal-Mart and showed them to the manager and he refunded my entire purchase price. Junk

@@98grand5point9 I think its best to shake the bottle before use. I had an high milage Mazda with valves making sound.... after slick 50 went in the engine was much more silent... and it lasted about 55.000 miles (which is indeed what the can said).... I liked it, but havent used it since. I think about it though for my recent high milage car...

I FIND THIS TO BE CORRECT...IF IT IS MIXED WITH 30W OIL...I try to purchase pure...I live in So Cal Desert...it gets hot here...so I run 20W50...Have for years...thinking of 15W40 Diesel style if needed...My Dad ran 20W20 Havoline...But he lived in Arkansas...

I used Slick 50 for many years (when I changed my own oil) with good results, so I remember the instructions: Because the PFTE is heavy and suspended in the oil, it will settle on the bottom of the bottle(!) So the instructions said to shake the bottle for several minutes BEFORE pouring it into the engine. Then the PFTE is supposed to bond with the moving metal surfaces as the engine heats up after the oil change. I still always changed my oil every 3 to 5000 miles so never had any problems. Thanks for listening.

thats the high performance handling option, commonly known as the police pack.

Stance Life.

LOL! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

But she's on rails when you hit the corners.

That mower is clearly set up for drifting.

Matt I think it had to do with an aspect not related to the lack of oil. I think that engine had an issue with the carburetor. Looks like a mower that was scarcely used and sold after the death of a parent. "Old persons". When they usually sit for long periods of time without use with the newer ethanol laced gasoline they often get filthy with sediment and oxides from the ethanol. Probably got it cheap at an estate sale. Used maybe 5 times a year to mow for 15 minutes at a time.

Thank you for the feedback

@@ProjectFarm Based on the information in the video shared by Glo Right a few weeks ago, the current "Slick 50" product is not the original formula for which we recall those engines running after being drained. That original formula is now sold under the brand Xcelplus.

@@jebucha your correct! My friends dad buys it in the original formula 5 gallons at a time from a guy who has a bunch of drums he's been hoarding. He says whatever they took out made the new stuff garbage.

Slick 50 requires repeated run cycles to build up and deposit it's proprietary anti friction surface. Run an engine for 20 hours on Slick, Then repeat the tests.

Yep, 1984 was the year Slick 50 changed the formula. I remember it prior to that and it even looked different from the stuff they are using today. Frankly using Slick 50 now is kind of pointless as it is no different than regular oil.

I definitely agree with your comment. That wasn't enough time ran for the slick 50 to do what it is designed to do. As for the heat, slick 50 does what it says and the engine runs cooler. This demonstration even proves that. I would like to see this on 2 new identical motors and slick 50 time to do what it does. The motors in this video there was surely a difference in time they have been ran and how they were maintained. Flawed video for sure

Yes, something doesn't make sense. The Slick-50 engine wasn't even that hot.

Agree with all y'all!! I was shocked until I seen your comments!! Ty I will put a quart of it with 4 quarts of my regular oil when my daughter does my oil change.

does the now adays slick 50 work like that still?

I was thinking the same thing

Good notification

Exactly what I was thinking. Mmmmmm?

There was an extra 4 oz in the slick 50 mower because of the slick50 that was added. The other mower only had 16 oz of oil. Thus the lesser amount recovered from the oil only mower

@@Christopher_Black lolol No. You can't overfill a crank case. The amount was the same. Like if you have a 350 engine. It takes 5 quarts of oil. If you use Lucas in it you just replace 1 quart with a quart of Lucas making it still 5 quarts. You don't add a quart of Lucas to 5 quarts of oil making it 6 quarts. Both engines had the same amount in them.

Have to agree, Mower with Slick 50 looks newer and less used. older mower has worn so tolerances are greater, test therefore proves nothing. A worn engine will live longer without oil then a newer engine. Never used slick 50 personally.

I think this is a worthwhile comment. Even so, I think slick 50 got caned here.

The Slick 50 looked newer but the tyres were more worn? Maybe the SAE30 had the tyres changed? This is not a good test. If Project farm has some sponsorship or some income stream from Utube then an accurate test would be to have two brand new mowers and do the same tests, or if two older ones then strip them down and measure inside components to make sure they are close to the same condition. I like Project Farm but this one isn't a proper test. Keep up the good work.

They probably don’t make slick 50 like they used too now ?

Sounds like a lot can attributed to a observant person keeping up with regular oil changes. That alone can net you many, many miles over the average guy who will tend to "let it ride" every so often.

Its a Ford with regular oil changes. Im not saying slick 50 isnt good but what i am saying is that a ford truck will run for ever if treated right

@Ab Ba From an engineering perspective, that isn't possible.

@@68404 - What a kill joy! Placebo effect?

It was always useless, rough lumps of PTFE do nothing to help, and can block important oilways.

Good point. I don't know how much zinc original Slick50 had in it, but zinc kills cats that's why modern oil has very little. Maybe modern Slick50 is the same?

Thank you! Will do!

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks for the product recommendation! I'll see if I can test it in the near future! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

Likewise, I think any high moly disulfide grease you can get would be interesting. Even if you had to dilute the grease I would be very interested to see how well residual moly protects. Even as a dry lubricant it's one of the best compounds available. On the same line of thought you might try CLP or similar. The reason we use CLP on our weapons in the military is that it leaves a teflon film after wipe down. Thanks for the entertaining vids man.

You can buy pure MoS2 from AliExpress (I did). I'd like to see an ounce or two of that added to ordinary oil then same test done.

molly great stuff

Adam, LOL! Our dad's are very wise! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

In 1984 Slick 50 lost the right to sell the original product. They had to make their own lubricant and it does not meet any of the original specifications of original formula. If you want to try the original formula it is only available branded as Xcelplus.

In the '90 there was a product that competed with slick 50. It was call Prolong, it would be nice to try that one out if it still available!

There was also Dura Lube back then too and it is still around. If Prolong isn't available then Dura Lube would be a good alternative for a head to head. Whichever new one is endorsed by some racing driver (can't remember who, but I think it's one of the Formula 1 Schumachers), would not be a fair test, cause that stuff is garbage. It's just mineral oil and a total scam.

Bill Does Stuff. Another products from 80's was MolySlip.

I enjoyed reading your post. Thanks for commenting.

Nothing is a miracle product, but i completly disagree, ive torn down many high milage diesel and petrol engines here in australia that i or others have personally serviced and used slick 50 with. We tested it for on a fleet of taxis, and trucks identical models and engines all driven by a mixture of drivers day and night. And the almost perfect 50percent of the fleet that had the slick 50 in it every service had noticbly less wear upon major rebuild time. Again, its not a magic miracle additive, but its backed by some serious lab r&d. One of the benifits of them not working for a sole company like castrol, is they can work with multiple companies across mutliple brands and not have preferential treatment from oem manufactures etc influencing final product. ie its too expensive make it cheaper for us.

Interesting, I have just commented on how Castrol Magnatec oil appears to have improved the cold starting on my Isuzu Trooper, it's the 3.0 diesel 2003 model which I've owned for 10 years.

An engineer who runs his engine low on oil, seizes it and then eventually ends up in a 'senior leadership position' at an Oil company. Sounds about right for any one in management.

Technically, he did say he was a student at that time but I get your drift. Anyone who runs an engine low on oil should not be surprised at a failure.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Amsoil especially !!!!!

Mobil 1 vs amsoil!

Better yet Mobil 1 vs amsoil vs conventional oil!! Do that! Much controversy in the field

@@ProjectFarm i'm currious about DT 550 friction reduces out of missouri

Yeah it would've been cool if he tested the slick 50 mower with SAE 30 first and then drained and refilled.

Yeah running that much cooler from just an additive is a pretty big deal as far as preventing wear and tear goes since temperature has an exponential effect on wear and tear. Sure it apparently won't save it from a no oil scenario but I'm not sure many things do and you shouldn't be buying additives based on such an extreme scenario anyways.

@@KaiserTom Two different, worn engines, so we have no idea if the cooler running engine had anything to do with the oil. Numerous factors could have made it run cooler.

@@scarharting5577 Absolutely. That's why there should be another test with a clean engine, flushed out after every test, to see if these additives make a difference in temperature. Hopefully the flushing gets rid of anything that may "stick around" and muddy up further results. Better yet just two new engines with random test sequences, so that even if things do muddy it up, they will ideally do so consistently.

Thank you for the feedback

I agree with newer older motor theory. I also would have like to see the newer engine operating temp with straight oil

@Joe Cool but the commercial showed an engine running dry after slick 50 treatment. He was just replicating what they said could be done with their product.

I agree. I don't think this was a very scientific experiment. Love project farm, but this one didn't make sense to me.

I put slick 50 in my car and once when the engine low oil light came on I immediately pulled over and my engine seized before I got to the side of the road. Good luck.

Good catch.. wonder if it really made a difference?

Avnett definitely would make a huge difference source=im a.s.e. certified in engine rebuild/diagnostics

Great point! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

Saw that too. Would have been a better comparison if BOTH were run on straight SAE 30 first. No way to know if the temps actually dropped with adding the slick 50.

w108jpw I came here to say exactly this!

@Jay'sWorld! you can use pure synthetic oil stabilizer, black lucas bottle

There was a test with Lucas and the engine ran 27 minutes with no oil after being treated with Lucas.

Accel plus is the original slick 50 before the owner of the product took it with him but couldn't take the slick 50 name

I just looked for an accel plus and couldn't find it any where do you have a more specific name for it? I'd love to get some.

I do believe even though an engine with slick 50 cant run dry, it does keep the engine running cooler so that extends overall engine life and probably lubricates all parts that sit as to extending an engines life from the dreaded dry starts when you initially start an engine.

@@n111254789 it Xcelplus but in the US it sells under the name Lubrilon

This is great information. Thanks for watching the video and commenting.

J Payne true. The name has been bought and sold several times over but the formula is still owned by the government.who bought it from the inventor in 84

You should do a test with Cerma engine oil.

i always thought slick 50 was more for start up.. due to its ability to stick to the cold rings easier . I'm not a motor head... so what would i know.

If you want the original slick 50 formula you have to use excel plus. The guy who runs it is the original owner of slick 50.

Yep, agree. I use 0w40 full synthetic (Mercedes formula) in my riding mower (B/S V-twin 22hp) and after 2 years oil is still golden. I also drop in a few ounces of Liqui-Moly anti-friction additive (looks like liquid graphite). No problems at all, good running engine.

I agree. Using 2 new engines would be ideal. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

Yeah, I would toss 20 bucks towards that for sure. Start with brand new Predator 212s. They are usually marked down to 100 bucks or so.

I will also donate $20 if he sets up a go fundme

Issue is you can make any product and make up what ever claims of advantages if they are hard or impossible to prove wrong, You can bottle camels piss and claim it reduces your engine wear 10% and people will buy it.

It is reliable , it has been made b4 and it showed exactly the same result. Slick 50 destroys engines, even with oil in them.

exactly - not a real test

I agree. I really like the effort PF puts into his tests but in this case there were too many unaccounted for variables. At the very least, there should have been a temperature measurement of both engines running SAE 30.

I was thinking the reason the 30 weight did better was because it was a little bit looser of an engine since it ran hotter but didn't seize up as fast or the slick 50 engine ran a little cooler but seized up faster seems it may have had tighter tolerances.

Thanks!

not the original formula from when they did those commercials.

was that the same commercial that they used a fire hose on a running engine ?

I remember one of those slick 50 ads using a 225 Chrysler engine, very deceptive. Those engines will run with a rod through the block for several hours... Can you try a similar experiment with LubeGuard?

I had a guy give me a tube of additive called CLM he said if I put a couple of table spoons of it with my oil change it would improve my gas mileage , I ran it in my 72 pinto that I would drive from Seattle to Bakersfield CA once a month it did improve my milage noticably , I ran across a small mud/rock slide on one of my trips we didn't have cell phones way back then and the oil pan was destroyed ,my buddy and I decided to drive the car as far as it would go hopefully to a rest area, it was late at night and we where in the mountains , we drove that pinto about 40 miles with the oil pan peeled open and the oil pickup dangling in mid air my brother came with a flat bed trailer and we hauled it home, put a new oil pan and pickup along with a exhaust pipe and that little car made many more trips between Seattle and Bakersfield. I lost the guys number for the CLM additive and never could find more but it really worked, I used the last bit of it a few years later I would buy some today if I knew where to get it anybody ever here of it

Thank you for the feedback

I don't recall them recommending to run without any oil though! IMHO... the PTFE when it got hot enough, cooked and galled up, where if it were in moving oil it wouldn't have. running that much cooler I'd sure think it was reducing friction everywhere... crank, rod, piston rings+skirts etc. still great abuse test!!

Ya, and it is still the garbage it was back then !!! Put DuraLube in the engine and your engine would not have seized up

@@modelnutty6503 the run dry was part of their commercial. Weren't they ordered to stop advertising?

@@modelnutty6503 Congratulations! You are the first commenter that I've seen that's called the active ingredient in slick 50 by it's correct name; Poly tetra fluoro ethylene I treated my Hilux 4 X 4's motor with slick 50, it was a 4Y motor, petrol I added the slick 50 to the engine oil and ran it for the recommended 5,000 Klm, drained it, and returned to using my usual oil, a while later,,, "some one" , no names mentioned, but you can point, "cooked" the motor, turns out there was a hole in the radiator They didn't stop until the motor cut out! The steam melted the solder on the top tank of the radiator, and it actually separated ! The engine block was a black as your hat! The cylinder head warped and let water into the combustion chamber ,and that's what stopped it I won't go into a lot of detail, but it was a piece of cake to repair, and it went on to last another 250,000 Klm, until the piston closed to the firewall sprang off the end of the con rod, a little while later, Yes, I was still driving it! the con red went through the side of the engine block, thass when I shut it down, like I didn't wanna ruin the motor.

Xcelplus Engine Treatment xcelplus.com.au/

Interesting

@Anthony Ramsey I have no knowledge about the Xcelplus but My father was a distributor for the original Slick 50 back in the early 80's. We had a small push mower that was treated with "Slick" ,as he called it' and it would run with no oil in it for around 55 min. before it locked up. We would let it cool off and put oil in it and it restarted and ran fine. We did this several times before he ever tried to sell it to anyone. He wanted to know for sure if it worked before he put his reputation on the line. I have no first hand knowledge of why the original developer of Slick 50 sold out. He may very well have been a horrible money manager! It wouldn't be the first time someone with a great product or service went under do solely to poor management skills but I will say without any reservations that the original Slick 50' sold back then' was an awesome product that worked! We ran that test several times on that engine and then put it back to work mowing our yard. I t was still running great several years later when I finally made enough money bucking hay for a neighbor to buy a used riding mower and gladly retire the push mower. This was around the time that the company was sold and the formula changed. Dad had no confidence in the new formula so we moved on.

Thank you for the video idea!

I had similar thoughts about the viscosity. I hadn't read comments when I made my comment above. A lot of good information in your post. Unfortunately it suggests that the experiment wasn't as well conceived as it might have been. One thought I had while I watched the test was that it would have been better to have preceded it with some isolated wear testing experiments. These might allow some of the issues you put forth to be sorted a bit before doing the lawnmower testing.

@@davefoc good points. What you tested still has value. And you do follow loical pathways.... Designing experiments is challenging

I used Engine Slick 50,000 before Slick 50 and ran it for a season before changing oil. During the course of the summer I could tell a difference in pulling the rope to start the engine after a few weeks but nothing after the first day. I don't think the engine was run long enough to fairly judge the product. I think Chaz has some good points.

Correct had to run on clean oil change. Up to 5000 miles to make any difference

The additional air might also cause cavitation.

Thank you for the feedback!

Prolong will do what your trying to show with engine oil drained out there's a video of motor with no pan or valve covers running and they even pour sand in the heads while it runs they even show bearings on a press treated with all brands of oil and prolong all the bearings sized up before Prolong check it out I use it and its saved me many times

Welcome! Thanks for the video idea.

i would like to see a re-test done. i believe the slick 50 engine will turn back over

Nothing can perform miracles. If the engine did run cooler with slick 50 I'd call it a win. The test kinda needs a do-over!

Yep maybe

Good point

Bullshit.. Look where the chute is pointing. Not enough to affect the test.

Less friction less heat

NO ITS NOT RUNNING BLADES......

ddoyle11 I just found this channel the other day. I really enjoy it. He does a great job keeping the test as fair as possible!

Thank you for the video idea!

@@ProjectFarm BTW Love your videos. They're inventive, as well as, informative. Please keep up the great work.

@@ProjectFarm yes try this segment again with excelplus...I too was very surprised that the slick 50 motor died that quick...WOW.

Thanks, will do!

Good critical thinking!

Kevin Henrichsen Not so true anymore companies caught on to the fact that they make more money by making things last so long so you have to keep coming back. Levi's used to last much longer before the 80's.

I run my engines at below operating temp. About 160F with my jeep and 185 with my 4 cylinder DOHC engines with cold air intakes, larger radiators and dual coolant tanks. With an electric fan I control manually. Maybe I'm doing unknown damage to my engines but neither have faltered in any way and I've been it for years. I feel like for a naturally aspirated engines you will gain more power with a colder engine. I also maximize airflow through the engine bay. Hood vents, removing air dams. I run my air filters outside of the engine bay also. My jeep is for off-road use... my Saturn before I sold it was interstate use. Neither are dragsters in any way. But I got better gas mileage, always a better throttle response. I understand what you mean by operating temps, however running colder makes more sense to me when you think about heat expansion.

I also pretty much rebuild them... so I delete factory things I guess and tweak the engine to run at the parameters I want.

I could be wrong but I believe I read somewhere once that the normal operating temperatures on most new vehicles is set higher than optimum to facilitate producing good heat inside the cabin for the colder months. At least for gasoline engines, not sure about diesels. I put a power programmer on my 99 pickup truck years ago that recommended going from the stock 195 thermostat down to either a 185 or like a 170 thermostat. I tried the lower one and it basically ran like it was stuck open, gave great power and stayed plenty cool during the hot summer months but ran too cold in the winter. Wouldn't even warm up enough for the engine to idle down. Switched it out to the 185 and it was kind of the best of both worlds.

Thanks for watching!

@@ProjectFarm I'd like to see a teardown of these, to see the damage, to see why they seized. I know this video is old but for all I know you already did make a teardown video?

That was an extremely objective comment.

very good Michael.

My personal experience with the old version of Slick-50 is that it saved my engine when the water pump failed 40km from home and I drove the car, at high speed, to buy a replacement, then to home for fitting and then drove it for many years afterwards without any issues. Yes, the car did boil the water dry to the extent that the temperature gauge dropped back to zero, yes there was steam coming from under the bonnet, yes I did refill the radiator (three times) and lost all the water again. But no, the engine never nipped up and always started even after turning the motor off when the water was lost. I now buy the replacement product Xcelplus and it goes in every engine I have. My brother-in-law wrote that car off by running off the road and hitting a strainer post, the engine was still fine.

@Tony HD I don't know! I'm just stating what the inventor said in an interview.

Thanks for watching and subscribing!

Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

rimmersbryggeri - In the early 90s I had a Pontiac Fiero GT that was in great shape and very low miles. Other than the stupid solid fuel line issues it ran like a champ. A buddy of mine his father bought into that duralube pyramid bullshit and talked me into adding it to my oil and gas. 3 days later it spun a main bearing. The old man across the street put that shit in his mid 80s dodge truck and blew his engine too I later found out.

Im not at all surprised. Even when I was about 8 I realised that was snakeoil. Would be nice to see a proper test of it though. It's kind of one of those produgts the salesmen would drink and eat to demonstrate how safe they were. When you see that you directly think that its some kind of cult behind it.

There is a reason all auto/truck manufacturers will void their warranties if anything is added to the engine oil, nothing good can happen . Also modern engine oils are more than adequate if changed at proper intervals there is absolutely no benefit to adding anything to them

I think you mean to say dyna-lube

Two are red :)

I would have loved to see the inside of the cylinders the way we get to see on the newer videos.

Why don’t y’all do it and see for yourself. I love all these comments that are pointing out “mistakes”, or what the commentary authors would do differently and therefore “better”. Y’all a bunch of one-upping keyboard warriors

@@michaelgroenski8158 There is a difference between a comment/question and a criticism. This channel is one of the best out there. You see criticism, I do not.

Thanks for commenting.

I'm a 61 year old diabetic and have always used oil additives. In my engines. ;) As a diabetic I have constantly searched/researched ways of maintaining my health. It has been an evolutionary process over the years. Lately, knowledge/technology are changing almost month-to-month! As an automotive enthusiast (hot rodder) I have constantly searched/researched ways of maintaining the health/efficiency of my engines. It has been an evolutionary process over the years. Lately, knowledge/technology are changing almost year-to-year! Additives are like supplements. Neither will work alone. The engine failed on just Slick-50. My neighbor developed a stomach ulcer consuming excessive vitamin C by itself. :o Use them as they are intended to be used. And as always: Caveat emptor.

In the owners manual for vehicles, they say not to use additives. That's a bunch of crap they don't want your vehicle to last as long so you have to purchase a new vehicle sooner. If you research different additives as Paul Thompson said you should be ok. A lot of snake oil out there all it is is the mighty dollar they look at people like a sucker all wrapped up.

Please remove the tin foil hat and let your brain vent out for a few minutes before you post.. Here's a little business 101. If your vehicles don't last as long as your competitors, pretty soon, it'll become public knowledge, you know, from stuff like class action suits, internet focus groups, owner's clubs forums.. stuff like that. Most of what sells a new vehicle is the reputation that the previous models have built. Here's the real way to word what you said.. They want to engineer a vehicle so as that you're happy with it's service life compared to the price point. Failing to bring you " bang for the buck", will result in you buying a replacement from a competitor.

Automakers have a minimum standard for maintenance to keep the warranty in force. After the warranty they don’t care as much. I’ve bought all of my vehicles at that point. I view manufacturer's maintenance recommendations as a base line, a Floor to start from. People will ask me how do I take care of my car? I always tell them, “ Read the owners manual.” that gives you the minimum required. There is Nothing wrong with exceeding the Minimum standard. Example: My 95 Astro van took AC Delco standard spark plugs. I replaced them with Bosch Iridium/Platinum +4s. I always look for ways to improve the life span/efficiency of my vehicles. Another example: Diesel mechanic, big rigs, used Lucas products. That man’s experience, my Dad’s, and my own give me confidence to use Lucas.

Thank you for this recommendation!

I believe the Germans invented something to put in their fighter planes during WW2. My neighbor was a German airplane mechanic in WW2 and he said because the planes used leather seals for gaskets sometimes the planes came back with no oil at all in the engines.

John D known today as Liqui-Moly.

John D American fighter planes used Marvel Mystery Oil during World War II.