Haha, well, we are glad you think so! Hopefully it will continue to grow, but until then, we will stay focused on producing the best content we can to help everyone out there who does know about us! (and those who will find us in the future ;) )
I saw some videos of yours in the past (I think it was the series on wrist stability as I struggle from a previous injury on my right wrist) but this one made me finally subscribe and now I'm on a binge trip through your channel :D. Also I already done the routine twice and it feels great! Thank you and keep up the great work! :)
Wow thanks for the video and the excel sheet. The video was great, but the sheet just makes it that much more likely for me to try this routine. Maybe put a link to the video into the sheet, so that it's easy to find the video when doing the workout with the sheet?
Awesome idea! It has been added. Thank you for your suggestion. I'm glad the excel sheet helps! Having it laid out like that makes it easier for me to read and break down exactly what I am doing, and was hoping other would benefit as well! Glad to hear it is.
Really nice intro to hangboarding video, appreciate your content as always! I know this is aimed at beginner climbers, so I am curious to hear your thoughts about when it is appropriate to start hangboarding? I know that Eva Lopez (whose protocol you reference) recommends 2-3 years of climbing before beginning her program. What's your opinion as a climber/PT?
Great question and it honestly, sadly, it really depends. One of the fears of starting a max hang or general hangboard protocol too early is that adding weight to a crimp grip can put a lot of strain and stress to our joints and pulleys. This can set you up for an injury to a pulley or can cause joint inflammation/synovitis which can cause huge stoppages in climbing. But let's change our perspective. What if you have climbed for 4 years and somehow managed to never crimp and then all of the sudden shifted and did a bunch of crimping. Honestly, your not any better off. The key here, if you picked up on it, is how you introduce crimping to your climbing. Going from no crimping to all crimping is terrible, easing your way into it is what will allow your tissue to adapt to these changes. I've seen people who have only climbed for 1 year develop joint synovitis and they never hangboarded, BUT, they got really good really quick and started crimping a ton. Same problem. MODERATION is the key here. Too much too quickly is going to lead to an injury. Moderating the amount of crimping and working your way up to it is better. So, if you can start with just some super simple training and moderate how much of it you can do, you can start this process earlier. The problem is most people don't start light enough and cause themselves an injury. Which is why most people have a specific timeline like 2-3 years, 6-12 months, etc. There's no research out there that says "this is the time" (if there is, please share!). I will say, I am more in the 6-12 month camp just to be safe. But with true, proper guidance (such as a seasoned vet training a newbie) you may be able to start the process early and be safe with it.
@@HoopersBeta Great, thanks for the detailed reply! On a related note, since this video specifically recommends training the half-crimp grip -- is there a benefit to starting with this one over open hand /open crimp (I know that the full crimp is a bad idea)? Or is it best to train a variety of grips?
Awesome stuff. Also, what songs are you guys using? They're such funky beats. I recommend starting a Spotify playlist where you can add all your songs from all videos! :D
Great content! Keep up the good work! A short question on the protocol for round 2 - single arm recruitment pulls: within one set, after a 5 sec pull, is there a rest time between each pull until you reach the 5 reps? Or is the idea to change between left and right hand after each 5 sec pull. ? Thanks for any advice 😀
Good question. You will do 5 consecutive reps on each arm with a 1-2 second break in between each rep. After the 5 reps, then switch arms immediately and do the same thing.
What is your stance towards very moderate hangboarding with shoulder injuries? My own experience has been positive (no pain during exercise or the day after, sometimes even slight improvement, maintenance of finger strength and mental wellbeing), but "common knowledge" says it is a no-go. Is common knowledge right, can it for example aggravate muscle imbalance even if it does not hurt right now?
Thank you again! Is it ok to combined this training session with climbing? Two times this session with two times gym climbing for week, or it will be too much? Climbing for a year and a half. Now I train 2 times pull ups with lock-offs , and two times hangs 7/3 protocol with 1 or 2 gym climbing and feel stuck
Did this as my first real hang board training. Feeling a little soar in one of my fingers. I know it's nothing serious, (I've blown two pulleys before) but wanted to know if some soreness Is normal? Should I back off? Let me know thanks!
There are many factors to consider for that answer. Where the soreness is and how long it lasts matters, as does the intensity. If you are just starting, although, I would back down on whatever yours doing for the last set (if min edge, choose a larger edge. If max hang, use less weight). It's a better / safer bet to start at a good edge / weight where you don't feel sore and then slowly work your way up.
Thanks for putting together this comprehensive hangboard workout! I'm still a baby climber as I just started climbing last year, but I got a hangboard for Christmas recently. Right now I'm only doing some bodyweight hangs using the jugs as I'm still trying to build up initial arm and shoulder strength. At what point do you think I should start to venture onto some of the more complex holds such as crimps and pockets? I don't want to injure myself since I'm such a beginner.
Fantastic question. The fact that you're asking this shows that you want to be proactive and not get injured! Also, you have a good thought of trying to build up your shoulder and arm strength. This will help prevent a shoulder injury as you strengthen your fingers. I would recommend doing body weight reduced (band assisted or pulley system) hangs OR recruitment pulls as your introduction. Recruitment pulls are especially great because your body will be able to limit the force production to what it feels safe and comfortable with. Band assisted is another great way as you can perform sets with decreased force and see how it affects your body. Perhaps start with a larger window of effort level, perhaps 12 seconds +/- 3 seconds. Hope this helps
Good question! This is an area that is highly debated but the best way to look at it is understanding"straight" at the elbow does not mean it isn't engaged. Unless you have had a traumatic injury, most people have the ability to extend the elbow beyond 'straight' and actually have a few added degrees of extension. So, if you are truly just hanging there your elbows would be extended being neutral, whereas actually maintaining 'straight' or even slightly flexed is engaged. So in short. My elbows are near straight with just a little bonus flexion while remaining engaged since I'm not locking them out in positive extension.
It really will depend on how much other finger activities (aka climbing) you are doing as well as your history with climbing and finger related training.
I climb at the gym probably 3 days a week and have been climbing for 5 years somewhat consistently. Im guessing if you climb more you should probably hang less. Do you have a general guideline? Or is it based on how your finger feel?
You end up doing like 60 pull ups lmao. Nice video btw. I would rest a bit longer in the beggining. I feel like 2mn is usually a better rest time for most strength exercises. I would think it’s the same for tendons
Yeah such a cool trick right? We talk about that in the vid for the minimal edge program. I usually prefer wood to save some skin but without rock to climb on as frequently could probably use the plastic as well lol.
