Can We Stop Hating on New Creative Directors? 

The ultimate problem is that we can't judge work that hasn't happened yet. Unfair or not, people are going to look at what's presented and form an opinion. It's fair to go in with measured expectations, but this is part of the process of presenting your work to the world. As Jackie Chan said (paraphrasing): "will you go to every single theater and tell the audience [why the movie was bad]? No. The audience in the theater says it's a good movie or a bad movie" The work lives forever in the mind of the audience.

I think unfortunately this ultimately leads to worse and worse design, we already excuse far too much from fashion houses/brands. Ludovic presented an abysmal collection; Pharrell has no reason to be LV mens (in a CD capacity at least) besides pure cynical late state capitalism; Sabato is a stooge - a puppet to be dictated to and have no say, as Kerring has made clear will be the future for all their CDs; lets not even get into the mess that was Burberry; etc etc etc If we claim to care about fashion we need to hold the industry and its people to high standards not just ‘be happy for them’. This current prevailing idea that any kind of genuine critique means you're some kind of misanthrope that needs to be stomped out has gone on far too long and its obvious who this mindset benefits and who it doesn’t… Also fashion shows have been around for a very long time now, everyone knows that first shows tend to go poorly at this point. It isn’t good enough. If this is so widespread/systemic then the system needs to change so that designers can actually bring to the table something worthwhile and nuanced from the get-go. A first collection should be an exciting and bold step forward - a reinterpretation of what has come before and an insight into the future. Just because they’ve often sucked for decades doesn’t mean its natural law, it’s something that should be challenged until it’s fixed. These are multi-million dollar earning businesses, they should have systems in place for integrating new people and getting everyone up to speed. To get specific about Ludovic’s collection, the main issue with the “hand bra” is now decades old - its old news and he didn’t extend our understanding of it rather he just copied it without engaging with its nuance. In the context of his very slim, very revealing collection it didn’t have the mystery, the sensuality or the romanticism of Ann’s use of the “hand bra” - it felt tacky and pornographic. Ann balanced masculinity and femininity, when she removed layers and let us peer in and see the body, it was powerful. Ludovic showed none of that. This alongside the choice to use Kendall Jenner street photos makes it clear that the brand is going against what it once stood for.

A new head designer or creative director at an established house understands that you must not alienate the existing clientele. This is so basic that it almost always doesn't even have to be mentioned.

Amazingly explained. And I have to add: comparison is the death to everything. And even more: I hate the narrative we are living in: why do we always have to be better? Why do we expect always more/better? I think creativity has nothing to do with “better than”. It’s more like a “different than - also good”. And yes even as a creative you can have a lack of ideas for a moment. And the most important: creatively is a process that can take years. But in a fast world, we are not willing to wait that long I guess, to judge.

I work in high end garment development & production. myself also coming from professional fashion design school. From my experience the issue among the entire fashion industry is that all the hype in celebrity designers results in the problem of non professionals leading the actual professionals. Design can definitely be art but art is not design. Design eventually comes out a “product” that can be produced in certain standards and practicabilities, which requires professional expertise in trainings and many years of experience. But nowadays the majority only look up to celebrity designers whom take all the credits and attention but are not doing the actual works and they know nothing about garment development. Overall the industry under this climate become a very toxic environment because the industry leaders are those who don’t really understand how many works required to make a real garment with high quality craftsmanship. And that’s the problem in current fashion world that comes out with more & more overpriced trash.

My hi-tech analysis is that change is always initially bad, then either worse or better with time! I will be very keen to see where demna goes next. Thanks bliss!

I was actually considering making a similar video, but you captured what I’ve been saying to people for years. You can’t determine if the hiring of a CD was the right move just off of their debut collection a the new house. Like with any job in any industry, you need some teething time to learn the ropes and find your rhythm in that company. With any other job, no one expects you to be better than your predecessor during your very first week haha.

Your work is amazing Bliss, thank you!!!

Great video Bliss!

Nah, hate hate hate. In this case stop with the celebrity designers the human made stuff ice cream is all stinky, some fresh non celebrity designer should have got the spot bared the storm and settled in

Thank you for this video 🙏🏻🙌🏻🫶

As the carusel turns, one may ask oneself what remains distinct to a fashion house?

What i hate about new creative directors who erase 80% the maison dna and make them like their own so makes no difference...

Hi bliss! Unrelated to the topic, but i’d like to say that i would highly appreciate if you could add the name of the brand/season with the runway vids🙏 lots of love!!

Excellent topic to discuss Bliss Foster! Many times Fashion Lovers/Enthusiasts get too caught up with one particular designer or creative director but the reality behind it all is that very few of us know it. The point you mentioned about the begening with Raf Simmons at DIOR is a great example, also sometimes brands want to go after their real customers and those customers are not us the Fashion Lovers/Enthusiast. Thank you for all the great content you make Mister!

Thank you Bliss

Great video!

i didn’t even finish watching yet but YES. I AGREE. OF COURSE THEY ARE NOT THE PREVIOUS DIRECTOR. the only new director i feel like really avoided big-time criticism was ib kamara

On behalf of Gen X (and my resume displays this amply), it takes a year to learn a job. It takes the second year to start to figure out how and where to change things and what all the doohickeys in the corporate tool-box are capable of. Making something so complex that it takes multiple sewing studios to complete an ensable for the runway... that's a whole lot of people to work through to get to the final object. Chill critics, chill. Let the Creative Directors and artisans work it out. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

I love Pharrell but I don’t think making him the CD of LV was the right choice

love this!

Raf at calvin was great since the first Show

I agree! It's so telling that anyone can become a singer, painter etc from non traditional art/design backgrounds but when its fashion everyone goes up in arms

Buyers never said: "Let's let the new creative director build up slowly..."

Even Marc Jacob’s first show as a creative director at LV was a very ‘slow start’ when he took a sort of minimalist approach - it received harsh criticism. Quickly, he realized that he didn’t match his collection to the LV’s target audience - the audience needed the pieces to make a statement. The next seasons to come were very different and more maximalist than his first. The 2001 collection with Stephen Sprouse is an example of going maximalist - pieces that scream ‘LOUIS VUITTON’ and this has to be one of my favorite, if not my favorite LV collection. Some argue that Jacobs helped take the brand off to extreme heights with his collections and I couldn’t agree more. THINGS TAKE TIME PEOPLE!

First luv the videos

Damn you’re good at this

Thanks!

I understand you want this to be about all new creative directors but really this sprouted and lands on Pharrell. Sorry but it just is. You are right!. New directors deserve the space to make their work happen. But Pharrell. There's little reason to believe in his design (creative) or guidance (director). Ultimately it really doesn't matter because he will simply cherry pick from the creative army at LV. Ultimately It's just sort of another subject.

Hey Bliss, new sub, love your commentary on fashion!!! ♡ There's a very interesting phenomenon in the fashion space happening, where the same people who criticize fashion directors, have opposing views. I've seen old and new directors being torn down for not being "artistic/ daring" enough with their work, like Michael Kors, but there's simultaneously say things like _"Who would wear that? Its ugly and not wearable fashion."_ 🙄 The latter comments show up with more avant garde looks from people like Iris Van Herpen or Guo Pei. Obviously those creatives who cater to the masses like MK, have their merits in the basics of tailoring and structure, working within the bounds of the conservative elements of fashion, as his new show showed. I can appreciate that regardless of personal taste. IvH and GP push the bounds of what we think of transformative wearable art; they exist to explore what can be, what the wearer can be. This whole discussion has a weird element where the visual consumer (not even the ones who purchase designer brands) want every designer to cater to them, regardless of any money being spent at all. Its a way for them to gatekeep the creative process strictly for consumption, not the expression of what fashion design brings to the world of fashion expression. Why even have different design "signatures" or "brand essence" if the masses who don't consume, are calling the shots with ill informed opinions??? 🤔😮‍💨

im so excited for what pharrell brings to louis vuitton.. he was friends with virgil and i think the LV aw22 show was an amazing precursor to what pharrell has in store!!

Personally, I think there is a fine line between getting upset for no reason and becoming too critical, AND not being critical at all because we understand what they are trying to achieve and build up. This is a problem in art as well. Because after a decade or so, it is fair to look back and understand the process and I assume this is what most people on this channel want from fashion as well. But there needs to be space for criticism toward these bigger companies and they decision to hire certain art directors (of course not a criticism to the person, but their work). Often I dont like the first few collections, I am more critical than a smaller desiger that just started out. But if I dont like it, I will skip a few seasons and come back later.

nuance is why I follow you Bliss

Love it.

Is being something of a slow burn a standard thing in the industry? Im more of a musician myself, but its so common for people to get the idea Im into fashion? But I have been slowly building up my style so if I ever go to a fashion house, I can have what I do as a portfolio.

Thank you for your videos!

Agreed… we need to evaluate the journey or evolution. I think quick/snap judgments have lead to the current lethal cancel culture. Not just for fashion but life.

Thank you for this. I will hold my nose and give Matthew Williams more time.

“Those flashes came slowly” Such an important bar when opinion/critique forms at algorithmic newsfeed speed. Such a different pacing compared to engineering a collection / ideally multiple collections

Thanks

Hmm, LV seem to have some interesting hiring patterns. Seems like there’s someone who should be thanked for all that.

I suppose that there is a fashion equivalent of the Gallerie Refuse?

MOSCHINO & TRUSSARDI I'm wait revealing thier respectively new Creative Director

Cant wait to see boring and dull collections from gucci moving forward!

BUT WHAT IF WE START CHANGING THEM TOO FAST? WHAT WILL HAPPEN....

does this imply that houses try hard to keep their current designer(s)?

I’m launching a brand soon

let's stop hating on new ones and hate on hedi slimane still

I guess harris reed took the opposite approah of starting big and then toning down his vision for nina ricci !

I'm just waiting for Phoebe's return. She'll soon make everyone else look ridiculous. Old Celine is still miles ahead.

They just make it too damn easy

Sooooo geo-politically in-tune !

i thought ludovic's ann demeulemeester show was amazing because i had never checked out any of the brand's previous collections, perspective + expectations can really set people up to be disappointed by art that would be beautiful under any other lens

I love how Bliss Foster, actually is the nuanced meaning of his name, Bliss, keeps the mind in “complete happiness and joy”, in this case with the subject we gather here for, Fashion…. Foster “affording, receiving, or sharing nurture” to our conceptual relationship to The Fashion Industry. And all in a positive thought provoking light, never any negative mudslinging, which in todays world of jilted sarcasm, is a rare, and dare i say, beautiful experience.

It seems like a dammed-if-you-do, dammed-if-you-don't situation. Either a house keeps a creative director for too long and stagnates or new directors don't do exactly what the house did before.

Not at all bothered or suprised by the Pharrel pick, seems natutal

can we have real designers back?

This isn't necessarily about this subject, but more about your approach. I actually think you're too...post modernist? If that makes any sense? Meritocracy needs to exists, otherwise NOTHING has value in fashion. If you can't take somebody out to dry, then you might as well not express anything.

why no women getting these jobs? And why only super young men or hot men get the spot? I'm suspicious of the ways fashion deals w/ stuff

Please, Harris Reed's Nina was god awful.

Valeu!

Say it with me…WHERE ARE THE WOMEN!?

WHERE ARE THE CLOTHES MARTY? LOL

good

I understand being open to new heads but what I find it disappointing is that for these position they should hire peoples who have a degree in fashion and not just clout individuals.

Almost first

Ann Demeulemesster show was really bad :(

troooot

Having this issue, I can't help but wonder how Lee Mcqueen felt when he was hired at Givenchy and the criticism that comes with it. It seems that we are forgetting the these creative directors are human beings that goes under unbelievable stress and pressure in making collections after collections and they end up depressed and drug dependent. We as fashion spectators just need to be sympathetic to these people, the house that employs them, well that's a whole another story. Bringing up the LV menswear creative director debacles much as I want Martine Rose and Wales Bonner in it, Pharrel will be a great creative director in it marketing wise because I can imagine the people who are going to wear his collection when it comes up. At the same time, Martine Rose and Wales Bonner will be able to concentrate more on their own label to their own expense and they don't need to answer to people who just want to make money. More power to Bliss

Bliss you NAILED this! Peace…’Lady J’😎 @JGerardCouture3.0

Thanks!