Good video. Glad to see you are using correct lubricants. Anti-seize on lug studs is excellent also. Safety note: It is better to set the vehicle down on the jack stand and then leave the jack under, than leave the weight on the jack. The way you have it, if the elevated vehicle rolled fwd or aft while falling it could miss the jack stand or hit at enough angle to dislodge the jack stand. This is particularly important when the rear axle is elevated on a RWD vehicle but applies universally.
@@lydiahubbell6278 Nothing. It works just fine. On the square O-ring for caliper piston I use the brake fluid it self because it is very slick and lower viscosity for ease of installation and easier (modestly) to clean up excess.
This could also be a problem with the brake hardline or rubber brake hose not allowing brake fluid to return after braking. They can become crimped, clogged or in the case of the rubber line, just wear out internally. Check the bleeder valve before buying a caliper. Open the bleeder... if fluid shoots out under pressure, it's the line. If fluid slowly oozes out, you need a caliper.
Thank you very much! Yeah I have some of the most brutal viewers ever lol. I'm use to it by now, but I really appreciate when someone finds any of my videos helpful. Thanks for watching, thank you for taking your time to comment and subscribe. DIY-Zac
My rear driver side brake stuck shut on me after I came out of a corner, speeding onto the highway entrance ramp. It was a hot day and I imagine that corner caused enough stress for the pin to seize up. I disassembled the brake caliper assembly, loosened all the dirt with a wire brush, and cleaned everything with brake parts cleaner. Then I lubed up the pins, which were dry, and put it back together. My ‘04 Astro van is now running fine and ready for work.
Right on, that's the name of the game. Good thing you are handy, a shop would have charged a ton for that... Thanks for watching, thanks for taking your time to comment. DIY-Zac
I have an 04 Astro also. Just Had brake work done.Caliper.." Etc.. Drove a few miles and Noticed burning Smell Back Driver Side Wheel. And Very Hot on the Hub. Took it back this am. Waiting for their call back. Love my Astro..ok that's all😊
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost the account password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Kieran Damon Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Good video. My 98 mustang brakes where smoking. Before I changed them I noticed that my pin wasn't moving at all. Or if it had a screw. So I'm sure that's the problem. On my back driver side. Thank You for the video. Good information
@@robertallen2943 The rubber on the pins shouldn't be hard but also that shouldn't stop them from sliding correctly. If your referring to the rubber on the piston that will appear hard just because the piston is inside it, that also however shouldn't affect slide ability.
This happened on my '08 Silverado 4wd when it had low miles. I took the caliper off and changed pads. I couldn't find a thing wrong with the caliper except it was stuck. So I loosened it with the clamp as you did and it never happened again. I'm at 107K miles now. It seems to be happening on my Jeep now. Did you ever do part 2 to this video?
Thanks for the tip, I never knew you could buy the boot separate. Usually when the failure is caused by the piston I just replace the caliper. Maybe next time I have an issue with one I will try your tip. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
I have brake jobs to do ever so often…Zach, like your style!….now I put new shoes on my driver’s side rear with a new rotor…….Drove it the next day to break it in….had to make a quick stop, stomped on it!….little bit brake burn smell…later when I stopped at a parking lot..felt that wheel and it was hot….When home, I took off the wheel and looked! It seemed ok but rotor turns tight! Do you suppose those pads are still breaking in…or might you suspect something else?
Thank you for watching. Thank you for taking your time to comment. Don't take this the wrong way. But I need to clarify. Do you have break pads in the rear or break shoes?
I had slide pins sticking and replaced everything. Tires aren't smoking or smelling bad but still got hot. Bottom pins on both front were stuck and replaced bracket and pins
I replaced my brakes up front rotors and pads, now one side is locking up for some reason. The pistons acted fine when retracting them. I did notice the brand new pads were way too tight going over the rotors on both sides I am wondering if the rotors are the wrong ones. I got them from rock auto. So if the pins are causing the caliper to not function right? It looks like your piston on that side is totally seized if the pad is not contacting the rotor at all.
Correct kind of. The brake assembly only supplies actual pressure to one side. So if the pin freezes then the piston is only pushing on one side. Not sure if that makes sense, what I'm trying to say. I've never used parts from that place so no idea about that experience. I bought all four for my truck and I just resurfaced them once since. Big cost up front but to have them "turned" it is a fraction of the cost. I'm glad your watching though. Hopefully I helped in some way. (Related to your screen name) I have recently gotten back into RC. So now with my 3d printer I've been making tons of custom parts. I will probably make another account (if I do) to show RC stuff. Thanks for watching. DIY-Zac
Yes your welcome. I have a wide variety of videos for everyone to watch for free. My channel isn't for everyone I get that. That's why there are millions of channels. But thanks for watching and raising my video in RU-vid algorithm.
One of the differences is thickness. The green is more "slimy" Silver is high temp and more of a paste like lol The green says on it caliper lube. So I assume it has a reason they want you to use that instead. I would assume yes though you can use either if you only have silver. My opinion is wrong lube is better then no lube. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching and commenting!!! DIY-Zac
How far do you gotta drive to tell I think my 2005 ford freestyle is doing the same thing when I stop I gotta press on gas pretty hard to get going again
James Moore. best easiest fastest way to tell is Jack your tire up and see if it will spin freely. Of course if it is a drive tire then you will have to put it in neutral, they all should freely spin....
Lol no I haven't heard that yet. Been in Michigan my whole life with the exception of the service when I was stationed in TX and SC I do want to visit the east coast. DIY-Zac
It'll take sponginess out of your brakes? Why would the brakes feel spongy with a block in the line. mine are spongy and my brakes are sticking why is it spongy? The sponginess isn't a loss of fluid so what is it. Fluid not returning to the master cylinder? what difference does that make cuz you still have break fluid in the line. Is there negative pressure causing air bubbles somehow because of slight moisture and that accumulates air bubbles with negative pressure? Just like your joints cracking just negative pressure and creates air bubbles in your joints when you pop your joints?
Hit my brakes pretty hard the other day and the pedal went down and there was a crunch. The pressure went down after that. It still brakes and there’s no leaks. Fluid is fine. Not sure what it is. One friend said Master Cylinder another said brake line.
It's not a line since your not leaking any fluid. Diesel or gas? I'm thinking master cylinder is your problem, I had one fail almost same scenario as your describing and it was the master cylinder on my 01 explorer. Some master cylinders are repairable but even when they are I've noticed it is easier and a better bet to just replace. Thanks for watching, thanks for taking your time to comment. Zachary
what is it people don't you paya ttention the line hose can gwt rstickted and wont allow the fluid to return tp master cylinder they sometimes collapse internally and thus a stuck caliper////@@BackyardDIY-Zachary
I have talked to several mechanics and they say that the pumpkin is strong enough point to jack up the expedition. Where exactly do you you find the best place to put the jack and jackstands..Do you have a video on this?
I totally agree I jack on the pumpkin. The only down side to that is it is generally off center so for example if your right rear is the tire you want lifted and the pumpkin is left of center then you'll have to jack pretty high to get the right off the ground. But the pumpkin is the lowest point so it makes it easiest to jack especially on a tall vehicle. I jack from it and then place my jack stands as close to the wheel I'm working on, on the axle. Hopefully that answers your question.
nope Nunya: The slide pins weren't releasing, causing added friction on the rotors. Which causes them to get hot. Thanks for watching, also for commenting. Backyard DIY-Zachary
Hey off topic, I put new rotors and pads on my car but they smoke and smell when even on a small downhill. Yes, I used all new hardware plus clean and lubed everything really well. The calipers retracted smoothly so pretty sure it's not those or the lines. Is it possible the master is not allowing the pistons to retract all the way?
Hmmm that's a tough one, before changing your brakes did you add any fluid? Maybe it's over filled? Not sure what your system looks like but is your hand brake e brake system hanging up? If it's not one of those then I'm tongue tied, hopefully you figure it out. Keep us posted and let us know how it turns out! Thanks for watching, thanks for your question. Backyard DIY-Zachary
I have a Toyota Camry LE 2001 2.2 liter 4 cyl engine . When i was driving it today it smells like a burnt rubber . And the brakes kinda smokes to the passenger tire .and i heard kinda grinding noise when i brake .Iam thinking its my brake pads .I have no experience on this kinda issue . I was gonna change my brake pads . Any good info would be appreciated
Thanks for watching and commenting/asking questions. Firstly I would say you need to determine is the caliper the issue or the pad. If you see smoke/steam or you feel heat when you put your hand near the rim then that is the wheel that has the issue. Or if you want you can jack up each tire individually and turn them by hand ( cant be in park or have the parking brake set) so make use you are level before you do this. Or chock the tires so it doesn't roll. After you figure out which tire it is a caliper is a relatively easy swap/replace job. I don't think from what you have said it is the pads at all. Although the caliper being bad will cause pads to prematurely go bad, so youll probably end up replace the pads as well. But first things first figure out which caliper is causing issues. Feel free to comment again with how it is going or when you've got it replaced. Thanks again for watching. DIY-Zachary
..unfortunately, my own brake pads were sadly worn down to the extremely flaming and thoroughly toasted level...riding only on those flaming screaming metal warning squealers...
I just replaced calipers brakes did not replace rotors and my brakes are still getting HOT...brand new brakes and calipers what the HELL is making this HOT you could HEAR the metal MAKING pin pin noise
Did you replace calipers? Or just brakes? Either way if you re used the caliper mount it is possible the pins are sticking/ frozen. If you didn't change calipers maybe one is seized. If none of those options you got me, maybe they aren't squeezing equally making one work harder or just one stopping the whole truck.
@@BackyardDIY-Zachary thanks buddy I replaced all 3 caliper mount and calipers and brakes caliper and caliper mount comes together or at least I bought it brand new autozone..and I bleed the brakes today by disconnecting the negative battery as you stated and already went THROUGH 2 1 liter bottles of brake fluid and pedal still goes to the ground ..held brake while truck on turn truck of hold pedal for 30 seconds and pedal rises all the way up..tested booster it gas suction just like you showed..
@@kangokidkidd4037 I'm at a loss without tinkering on it myself. Try asking in a FB group, I am on a powerstroke group. Most of the posts are showing off and bragging but some guys/gals in there actually are helpful though. I hope you figure it out, be sure to let me know what it is when you figure it out. Sorry i can't be of more help. DIY-Zac
hello i changed my pads and rotors in 2016 and again in 2017 and now again i have to change..at 32k and 40k and now 55k km..each time always same thing..pads are seaized because no grease enuff why???...the mecanic said he greased each time...Lisa (they said caliper pins are fine and caliper itself is fine too)
I'm not splitting hairs with this question. But what specifically are they saying isn't greased? Because you should never have grease in contact with the pads. Caliper pins yes, pistons inside calipers yes (although technically it is a sealed caliper so it should only have brake fluid on it) Not sure what could be causing this issue. Are you changing pads and rotors at the same time? Or maybe you ride your brake pedal? Car or truck? Lots of heavy hauling? Mountain driving? Not sure without more info the issue. But just for an idea my 15 Civic hasn't had either replaced in the almost two years I've owned it. My 1 ton diesel has only had pads done (aside from the failed caliper) Thanks for watching, thanks for commenting. Hopefully we'll figure this out. :) DIY-Zac
@@BackyardDIY-Zachary and so im having repeating same issues as you..each year in 2016 and 2017 my brake pads were stuck and seized and i had to replace the pads and rotors and now again since summer 2019 i was told my pads are seaized and also the caliper pins but in fact this past week i was told when i brought to another garage that my caliper slider pins are fine like in your video but my pads are seized and my rotors need replacement but pads are still 65% good...so i was told in 2016 and 2017 that when the brakes were replaced they greases and lube the proper parts but now there is no grease..why are pads always geting seaized and ruin my rotrors?? if i am to beleive that they were cleaned and lubed and greases in 2016 and 2017 and now since 2019 my pads are stuck and are ruining my rotors?..i thimnk my rotors are like yours and still hopefully good and i will try to do what you did in video but i not sure i have the tools...i have 2015 hyundai elentra and i had brakes done at 20k and 32k and 45k and now at 56k km still need to fix stuck pads..Lisa
Lol I've noticed my viewers don't really enjoy that part. Yeah I can only say I'm not good at editing yet. Since this video I've started to edit long things out like this or just fast forwarded the video during sections I dont think people would care to see. Either way thanks for watching, thanks for taking your time to constructively comment I really do appreciate comments good or bad. HB-Zachary
rust on the disc rotor indicates the caliper is stuck open not closed and binding as this video is showing. why do amaricans say hanging up. hanging up is supending something in the air by defying gravity. why not say binding its so much a better way.
Hey!! This is also going in with my car. Hyundai accent 2009. I replaced the entire brake system. Everything. New roters calipers pads you name it. I replaced it. Brakes getting hot after 5 or 10 miles maybe less. None can figure this out. I have someone help me bleed the brakes every other day .. that helps a lot but not completely. If they don't get bled they seize right up as soon as I get on the road
Backyard DIY - Zachary my caliper was frozen, but I got the piston to move in and out, but my pads didn’t seem to wanna move away from the rotor after I took the caliper off. Napa has my brakes 60$ a pop, mine are kinda rusty too.
My car has problem and don't know what cause When i hit the break pedal break doesn't go down and comes vibration at the same time when i drive the car doesn't have power some time just slide and slide light sign comes up on the dashboard One time i smell something like burning Can you help me maybe to know the problem
By slide light I assume your talking about traction control. If your traction control is kicking on and your night sliding generally one of your sensors have failed. Places like AutoZone and pepboys might be able to scan your car for active faults they don't charge to check it. As far as not going down at all I would think bad master cylinder or bad calipers. What you have described isn't a easy fix and it is a little more involved then what I generally post videos about. I will try to post a video soon of a couple things I think you should check specifically but i'm going to guess your going to have to take it to a mechanic. Sorry for the bad news, thanks for watching and stay subscribed for updates!!
