Very nice job with the video here, found it very helpful and just wanted to say thank you for putting your personal time in to help those of us DIY currently dealing with a problem like this
Pitted piston sides will self bleed it. The boot blows out. The piston rusts and won't retract. Also this video is somewhat inspiring. Glad parts were available.
Whooh, when you snapped your finger with the snap of a finger method, the brake rotor only had one side and not the cooling fins in the middle and the back side the same thickness as the front side. Did you hear a grinding noise when you pressed the brakes before you started and had the rotor brake in the middle? Your a marvel of modern magic.
I did a conversion from drum to disc on my 68 beetle on the front only..Everythings new.. lines and all ..but what i am getting is when my brakes heat up after driving for a ways they start to seize..i am trying to figure this out and any ideas you might have may help..if this has happened to you before..Thanks
Just replaced the brake pads. Ended up red hot after 10 minutes.. caliper piston is stuck so so tomorrow ill try to loosen it up. Can i use a steel brush to remove the rust? Its a 24 year old car so.. i dont care if it totalt breaks down in 1-2 year
The rubber hose bolt that attaches it to the caliper won't budge when I try to remove it even after a night of penetrating oil soaking on it, both sides, could I remove the hose by the other end that was I can hold the caliper to remove the hose easier? I made the mistake of removing the caliper and rotor while the hose was still attached.
Day late and a dollar short, but if without power tools, if you made that mistake, it’s usually easiest to just prop the caliper bracket back on the spindle and caliper back on bracket to give yourself some counter hold to crack the banjo bolt loose. (None of the 4 bolts gotta be tight, just enough to hold the parts on unassisted). If you’re creative and the shapes and spaces allow you can also just wedge it between a control arm and spindle. If I’m replacing either the caliper or hose, I’ll crack that bolt loose before anything else and just snug it back up to avoid too much fluid loss. While you could technically just remove the brake hose from the brake line, sometimes rust and corrosion will make it difficult to spin the brake line fitting out as opposed to spinning the the whole hose off that fitting, so having the hose free and unattached to the caliper is advantageous.
That caliper looks 200 dam years old. All that dam rust. Why wouldn't you just get a new caliper? How long do you expect that caliper to last in all that rust? Better off just getting a new caliper for $100 bucks or so. 😂
