Thank you for actually showing sample images. Almost EVERY review I tried to find did NOT did this.. which I believe to be counter productive. So thank you sir!
I've had this lens for years, came for free with my Rebel, but came to watch anyways. Glad to see another Florida photographer. I started using it again lately and you're right that the mid-range aperture is where this lens should be at. Chromatic aberration can be fixed in post' but ghosting has no return, so low aperture in strong light can ruin shots. I only use a CPL though, no ND, and sometimes a UV just to catch ocean spray. The EF-S 55-250mm is a better option but I don't own one. The EF 75-300mm can also work for portraits if you have a hotshoe flash.
I’d always been interested in the 55-250 as an option mostly because of the image stabilization. And hello fellow Floridian! A lot of it can be fixed and I’ve only really noticed the ghosting on smaller objects myself really but in all it’s a good option to throw into a bag if you want something you don’t mind knocking around a bit
I traded my 75-300 for a used 55-250 at KEH for super cheap. The IS was the main reason. It does also seem sharper. But it was still fun to play with while learning about long focal lengths as a beginner (which i still am).
Wow, best lens reviews and samples I have seen till now. You did more awesome job than Christopher Frost in my opinion here. Please keep it up, want to see more reviews. I use Sigma 17-50 2.8 for canon. Even if the camera is turned off, I can see through my viewfinder, the lenses is shaking. It shakes during video and then it slightly tilts photos to the right, any idea sir? Heard Sigma lenses have these kinds of problems 😢
I would reach out to sigma and see if they can do a diagnosis for you, it sounds like maybe something got a little knocked loose possibly. Also if there’s a firmware update for that lens i would try updating that
I have a Quantaray 75-300 EF lens that is f/4-5.6. It has autofocus but I use the manual focus more. I have a Canon EOS-M and a viltrox speed booster. It makes the lens a full stop faster (f/2.8-f/4). I get some interesting photos this way. I also have a Canon SL2 that I took some moon photos with the Quantaray lens.
Thanks for letting us know. I just found this, my uncle got me a Rebel t7 bundle that comes with this. And as an amateur and hoping to take courses to learn and expand what I can do. I was worried that this lens would be just useless as so many people make it seem as.
It’s a very capable lens for beginners it does have its downsides being no image stabilization but as long as you keep your shutter speed 1/120 or faster 1/120-1/4000 you shouldn’t have much trouble with motion blur
@JordanHandwerker I'll have a tripod for it. But I'll take the advice for sure, it's good to know it's ups and downs until I can save up for some other lens that fits what I need.
It's very rare but in my 4+ years of owning this lens I've gotten at least 3 portfolio shots out of it. Did require using a tripod and shutter cable but I wouldn't have pulled off those shots with my daily 18-135mm lens.
Hello, I’m looking to get into photography I’m currently looking at the Rebel T7 there is a bundle for an extra 90$ with a bag and the lens you have just shown us should I get the bundle or just the camera itself?
I have a canon eos r10 along with the 75-300 lens. For some reason whenever I connect the lens to the camera it switches to manual focus mode and I can’t figure out how to take it off manual mode.
Hmm well that lens should have a switch on the side no? Does that control the AF/MF function at all? If not you’ll probably have to go into your menu to the AF section and turn off the MF option
I would say if you want a good lens with image stabilization look at the Canon 55-250mm lens it’s designed for the EF-S mount assuming you have something like a Rebel T7 or SL2/SL3 if you have a full frame DSLR this is really the only inexpensive option that canon offers, like I mentioned the EF-S 55-250 is designed for Crop Sensor/APS-C bodies
I’m in class so I’m watching without audio but I saw another comment saying you used it with an eos rp would it be good for sports videography/photography?
It’s decent for sports but there’s no image stabilization on it, so if you’re shooting fast movement you’ll get motion blur. Same for videography, you’ll get shake and motion blur
Depends on the focal length you’re looking for. If you’re still looking for something in the 70-300 range or what not the Tamron 70-210 f/4 is a solid choice that has good AF and image stabilization. It would cost you around $400 or so depending on if you find it on deal. Alternatively canon has released some newer RF telephoto lenses that may fight the bill without having to adapt that are a little more expensive but also have a varying aperture at lower and higher magnification
Unfortunately I have not used the efs 55-250 lens so I can’t give you a full comparison but I will say that it does Auto focus well depending on what system you use it may be a little slow but it always hits the focus
Does anyone know how this lens works with an EF adapter on the R6, especially the AF for animal and people? I am in the process of upgrading from my DSLR to the R6 or R5 and IF this one would work (in good lighting), I might change my new lens wishlist-lineup a bit :)
Well you can definitely adapt it using the Canon EF to Rf adapter, I’ve used it with my canon EOS RP plenty of times! Only downside to the lens it the Aperture, but the AF still works as it should
@@JordanHandwerker Thanks! I would want to try using it for like Little League Baseball or outdoor dog action shots. Not really too concerned about the bokeh with this lens. It would just buy me some time to replace that range.
@@nz4fun if you want to spend $500 on a Metabones Speedbooster version of the EF to RF adapter you can gain a full stop of light, I'm contemplating getting one. So say F4, would become a F/2.8, check out RU-vid for reviews of them, they are awesome
In your opinion, is a Canon - EOS Rebel T7 DSLR a good starter photography camera? I want to take pictures of the city, nature, possible animals - and even family.
Yeah I think it’s a good inexpensive starter camera, depending on your budget you could get something like a Canon SL3 that has Good Continuous Autofocus for a little more
@braddelaney8628 no doubt, but for what it’s worth if you get it in the bundle it’s good, buying 2nd hand is also good if you know what you’re looking for
Yes, that and the Aperture range but if you do pick it up I’d stay around the 5.6 range. And a faster shutter speed ( 1/200 or faster ) should fix most of the motion blur issues you’d face
I mean sure that’s one option but the only problem with monopods are there is no flexibility in shooting angles, you’re basically locked in a horizontal position. Great for sports but not so good for wildlife especially if you’re photographing birds in trees
I’m sure you could I would look at Vello or metabones depending on your budget, the adapter will allow the lenses to talk to the camera but I can’t confirm how well they will work but you shouldn’t have any issues as long as you buy the correct Sony lens mount to canon EF mount
So I just got a canon EOS r100 for christmas and just bought this lens and the ef-r adapter to take pictures at my partners rugby games. I just want to know whether it will take good images for this and whether the lens is beginner friendly
I think you should get some really good snaps with it under certain conditions, if you’re shooting in lower light or at night you’ll suffer from lack of image stabilization, slower shutter speeds will create too much motion blur unless that’s your style, if you’re shooting during the morning or day I would keep the shutter speed around 1/320 or faster to capture the action without a lot of blur, as for the R100 I unfortunately haven’t used the newer Canon EOS R APS-C cameras but I think you should get some solid images
You could make it work for sure, you’d need to have a fast shutter speed, probably 1/250 or faster unless you’re good at doing panning shots. With the lack of image stabilization you’ll be fighting shake from the lens at longer telephoto lengths
As long as your Rebel accepts the EF lens ( which I’m 99% sure it does ) the mounting ring on your camera will have a red dot and a White square ( Red Dot/EF, white square/EF-S)
It does I bought one before my vacation and I can’t figure out what my pictures are turning out blurry I want to figure it out before I go to Yellowstone if anyone can help I’m still new to photography like this
@@JordanHandwerker Rebel t100 I’m on standard setting I’m confused at why my images are blurry I took plenty of pictures with the lens that came with the camera and the look great I understand lens are different but I’m not sure how to fix this is what settings to use
@@jessibroadstone2637 if you’re using Autofocus it could be the lens isn’t focusing properly, when I use that lens on my T7 I set my AF to spot focus, if you’re using Manual focus you may want to try shooting live view off the rear LCD screen and pulling focus that way. If you’re still having issues you may want to send it to canon and have them do a servicing on it and reset the focus and adjust the optics. I would recommend using live view on the camera and try taking some photos, the minimum focusing distance is like 6ft on that lens so you’ll need to be far enough away to get the lens to focus properly
For Wildlife i think it’s decent, the Aperture isn’t the best at sunset but if you have a camera that can handle higher iso you should be okay, for Sports that’s a maybe answer. It has not image stabilization ( canon offers this same lens with IS at a higher price) but if you keep the shutter around 1/500 or faster then you should get some decent results
@@JordanHandwerker I’m a beginner so i don’t know much, I have a canon t7 rebel, and how much money would the image stabilized one be, i’m trying to be on a budget here, thanks for the response!
@@JordanHandwerker But if you think as a beginner i can get a way with just a high shutter speed and not need image stabilization i will consider!! I’d just like advicd
for Sports on a T7 than no, the T7’s AF is slow and doesn’t have an AF system like newer cameras. If you use this lens and the T7 together you’ll almost certainly have to use Manual focus for Sports, that being said it can be done but you’ll really want to practice manually focusing the lens
@@JordanHandwerker a star tracker is not required but the biggest issue would be the chromatic aberration and and distortions. My normal lens for AP is actually one I built myself that has a 127mm aperture and 700mm focal length, it's not perfect but it only has chromatic issues. I think the optics in this video might be more for very wide field stuff or maybe moon and some planetary. But that's my opinion with the experience I have had with the 18-55 and my own lens.
@@deltacx1059 a star track is required to use this lens and get good results, the focal length and aperture are too narrow to let in enough light without getting star trailing. I believe @AstroBackyard made a video about it on his RU-vid channel
@@JordanHandwerker I don't have experience with that exact lens but I did use my brother's vivitar 420-800mm and it seemed to work well on the brighter objects like the moon, Saturn and Orion nebula. I don't own a tracker. Not trying to be mean about anything but his standard of good is kinda out there, no beginner to the hobby is going to shell out the money for a device that costs as much as entry level cameras unless they are already rich, yes it's harder without a tracker but I assure you it is doable with ok results without a tracker.
@@deltacx1059 it’s not really doable for deep sky objects without a star tracker as any lens with a narrower aperture f/2.8 or smaller will not capture enough light at longer telephoto focal lengths without star trailing. Even if you only set your shutter speed at 1” and your iso at 10,000 you’ll still get star trailing especially at longer focal lengths. Trust me, I know this first hand
