I literally missed a track day because of this this past weekend. Nothing like being 4 hours away from your tools and having to ask other racers to borrow. Not gonna lie had a racer give me a hole saw that’s the same side as the Stud and drill down as much as you can. It was actually a genius idea.
What you were doing is not the double nut method. You need to just grab the inner nut which then jams against the outer. If you put a socket over both it just loosens both. Now you have little room to work so I understand the frustration.
Yeah I understand that but then I wouldn’t be able to get the wrench off. That’s why I try to smash the two nuts together and then line them up so I can put the rent over both so that the bolt wouldn’t get stuck on the side. The part where I at the ranch on the inside piece that was what I was saying this is a stupid idea because I felt like I was going to mark up the wheel due to the fact of not being able to get the wrench off. And then I wouldn’t be able to drive the car because the rent would be attached to my wheel.
Well done man! that was a complete and total nightmare.... Just an FYI, avoid lubricating lug bolts. The lubricant will result is over-torquing because it lowers the coefficient of friction
Those lug nuts look super thin, I would replace the whole set with something a little beefier. Especially since you track your car and are constantly removing your wheels.
@@jbrockskill so you are telling me that the german bolts wich are a special hardened steel wich isn't braking are worse than breaking cheap nuts? Wheelnuts are 11.9 grade bolts if oem this nut looks weaker than a standard 8.9 grade nut... p.s. even if you overtorque and break a wheelbolt you can usually unbolt the remaining bolt stud with you fingers because there isn't any deformation on the thread itself
Christian H. I’m saying they have better clamping force. Also my main point was it’s a lot easier to fuck shit up with impacts than using a breaker bar and just a ratchet.
i had the same thing happened to me about two weeks ago... there are some some sockets to remove stripped or broken nuts... just hammering them in they will dig onto the nut and then just wrench them out actually easier than it looks
THANKS ALOT FOR TAKING THE TIME AND MAKING THIS VIDEO . YOU SAVED ME ALOT OF MONEY AND HELPED ME GET SOM GOOD OLE 1 ON 1 WITH MY BABY .!! GOOD LOOKS MY BOY!!
the double nut technique would have worked if you did it right. You're supposed to only apply force to the bottom nut while the top nut stays put....that's the whole point of the method... moving both at the same time with a socket over both is just taking both nuts off at the same time. Also why you using an industrial application tool for your car lugs torqued under 100lbs? The 3/8ths driver is more than enough for car lugs, I have the stubby and its rated for 250lbs, I'm sure your full size is similar.
OK so how exactly do you get a wrench on the back bolt? There ain’t shit for a room. Also yeah I know I don’t usually torque the studs high at all. However for removing a bolt high torque is usually just fine. Obviously needed the torque because it still wouldn’t have come off. Get what I’m saying? Obviously that is the correct technique for double nothing and it’s very easy to do when installing a stud however when you’re removing it and you don’t have much thread to get another wrench behind it it doesn’t really work man.
@@BlakesGarage It looks like you got a wrench on the back nut at the 4:35 mark, not sure if it was on the front nut at the same time, hard to tell from the angle, maybe 2 nuts not as thick would have worked though probably harder to find. Obviously not that it matters now, just looked like a severe pain in the dickhole to get that bolt off. And yeah I get the high torque needed to get it off but that half inch driver is a beast, all kinds of sheering forces respective to the strength of the fasteners. I saw a review with some dude pulling huge rusted bolts off heavy machinery in a junkyard with that thing.
You need to be applying the force to the inside nut. ( the one you had the box end wrench on when jamming the two nuts together). And it will come right off.
there was an allen on the end of the stud 1/2 inch allen socket could have helped also could have saved some time with bolt extractors set preferably the ones that rip into existing threads work at vw see this more often that I care to admit also people tend to strip there key lugs but that's a different story but none the less you got the wheel off without damaging it good on you.
Another idea is to cut a chisel to where it would fit in your wheel. Take it to a bench and sharpen the HELL out of it, then cut the bolt by hammering it on to opposite ends. This worked for me once but we had access to a very good bandsaw to cut the tool steel chisel. Never using aluminum lug nuts again. Not that they aren't strong it's just that they corrode to your studs if they are different metals. I learned about galvanic corrosion that day lol
So sorry this happened to you. A few years ago this happened to me at a well known shop after a slow leak my tire. They patched it the right way by taking the tire off the rim to apply the patch. I was watching the shop guy put it back on and he started all the lugs with an impact gun instead of by hand. Got back to the house and grabbed my torque wrench to tighten to factory spec.3 of them would not move and didn’t want to break off. Took it right back in and said I can’t get the wheel off. They took it in and broke off 3 studs removing the lug nuts. They came back at me saying the studs broke and wanted some cash to replace them. Told the front desk man “hell no, you were the guys who fixed the tire and the last ones to touch it so I will wait here for you to fix it”. They gave my my keys back within an hour free of charge.
@@daibennett9224 yet people always end up bringing there vehicles to us. One time I had a customer do the timing belt on their car because we were "overcharging" them so they decided to it themselves. To make the story short vent valves guess who had to swap the engine this guy. So before you tackle a job make sure you have really good knowledge on what youre about to do
thats just shitty technicians that just are lazy and rushing the job. the true ones that care to do the job right would do it correctly. At the good Mercedes Benz dealerships, if a tech screwed up a vehicle and it was sent back, the same tech that fucked up would have to redo the job again and he won't be getting paid off it.
Was about to comment on the drill battery, until you mentioned it at the end lol. Almost had this issue with the RS, lug nuts were over torqued at the dealership, luckily for me it didn't get this bad.
Mistah J I’m a service tech, I do the wheel nuts slightly with my dewalt impact then use my torque wrench, any tech that over does wheel bolts are just bad 🤷🏽♂️
No it’s not. But really I can’t blame it on the actual studs or Lugnuts themselves. It’s just a bad situation it can happen with any stud or any nut ever. Basically it just goes to show you the power of those Milwaukee impact guns. And you really don’t know how much torque is applying until it’s too late. If I knew it was doing that before it happened. I probably would’ve just torched the nut And it probably would have come off.
Blake's Garage true true. With my conversion kit I changed to those long lug nuts cuz I am alfraid this might hapeen. Good it came off by the end and nothing is broken. Any plan for the s3？
Next time wheel wedge and E brake fully on as all that fighting is going into the open diff gears. Otherwise yea thats just a weird nightmare scenario.
I have to do this to 5 fucking studs. I've been drilling hardened steel for literally 14 hours. I can't lift the drill anymore. My arms and back hurts. I am about to find a telephone pole for this car.
Good job. Had that happen on my E36 M3. Long story short, had to change the hub cause that sucker wasn’t coming off. Having the right drill bits and drill makes a world of difference.
@@dylangrewell2351 well don't shops have a insurance to plan they pay for incase any damage happens to a customer's property the insurance will take care of the cost of the repair
I feel your pain. I just went through the same deal with a brake hose that snapped in the caliper. Makes you think why the hell you bother with cars in the middle of it!
@@BlakesGarage Yep. Tried removing it, but it was seized to the caliper. Rust in Norway with these salty winter roads is not exactly uncommon, I'm afraid 😫
@@AndrewLeet92 same thing happened to me, with bleeder valves, tried to bleed the brakes from the brake line, no luck, had to buy a pair of calipers, I'm in Canada same thing salty winters
I had this happen on the Subaru thanks to a shop over torquing it. I went a different route. Sounded difficult but took all of 10 mins to be all done. I took off the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly to the knuckle and dremeled the stud from the back or the hub
Next time try the 5 piece Twist Sockets set 1/2" from ABN ( Auto Body Now ). It comes with 12mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm and a drift punch. I used this set to take off a stripped 02 Sensor and recently stripped wheel lugs. Took them right off and didn't hurt the stud. But the lug will be a loss but only take a minute to take off. Hope this helps.
Now finally some one that understands why I did it the way i did. Definitely didn't want a wrench also stuck on the inside but. That ould be the perfect tool to help double nut to take something off.
Had a similar issue with a spinning stud on a 2016 accord rear wheel. I had to remove the hub and caliper then welded the stud from the back my bolt was intact I was able to breaker bar the fucker loose
Hey Blake, what brand was this stud kit? I wont name a brand but I have one on my E30 and I haven’t been happy with the provided lug nuts either. Huge props for persevering on that stud
i would bet money the shop you took it to rattle gunned the lugs on and never torqued them. how do i know? i have been a mechanic for 10 years and have seen them do it hundreds of times. i saw it every single day working at jack williams, its not from people being rushed because i worked faster than anyone there and i ALWAYS ran my lugs down with the gun till they were snug and then grabbed the torque wrench to fully tighten them to spec, i have never in my life had a stud snap because of the way i put the lugs on. dont take your car to a chain, most mechanics are not like me, they do not care about your car and have no passion for their work lol they are lazy and will fuck up your car and then try to figure out a way to charge you again when you bring it back. its really hard to find people you can trust these days honestly its a shame but if you do treat them right, if they make a mistake and own up to it and fix it for free, tip them. oh and avoid jiffy lube at all costs lol
jameswoodsist I’ve worked at a Skoda dealer in the uk for the past 5 years now, personally I’ve ALWAYS snugged the bolts up and torqued them, same with every tech there, but like you said there’s a lot of people doing that. I’d never be able to send a car out knowing i hadn’t torqued them up
They have a tool just for this its tapered and It bites into the rounded out nut. They even have ones that you hammer on to take off security nuts (the factory ones)
I think you need to look at what happened in my instance closer. There was nothing for a stripped board extractor to grab onto. Plus I had extended studs.
umm to do the double nut thing properly, you need to turn the inside nut only, not both or they will both come off at the same time...as you found out. the inner nut pushes against the outer and gives the break away torque.
Had some shitty OEM Ford lugs starting to slowly strip away on my Focus RS. Replaced them with some tough Gorilla lugs before something like this scenario were to happen.
My 88 YJ had 5 all together that were like welded to the OEM rims. The lug nuts friggin break in half. I have 1 1/2 left to drill out. I put anti-seize on the ones that did breal loose because last year i had 2 stuck and drilled out and put it all bavk together and now a year later 5 stuck. I am changing rims because if it happens again. All I can say is W.Va. has some nice cliffs.
Reggie Noble they rush you out the door. I had a local shop do the same on my skyline. They paid for replacing a new set of lugnuts and studs. Haven't been back to that shop since.
dealership over torqued my lugs on my '18 EcoBoost mustang performance pack wheels. sheared 4 off trying to take off my back wheels. it's always something.
That is why all my life lug bolts and lug studs are but on with hand tools and than torqued, you did do a great job of not losing your cool and destroying you rim. Wrench on
Double probably would have worked had you been able to apply counter clockwise torque on the inner nut of the two. The outer would keep it from being able to turn without the stud. With your breaker bar you were turning both studs in unison causing it to act like a single nut
Pro Tip: The elbow joint in the breaker bar is there to flip the bar to the opposite side for your next turn without having to pop the socket off and reapply each time lol.
Great job getting that off. I haven't had problems with my mh studs or nuts. I always break the nuts with a breaker. then zip them off with the impact afterwards. Glad to see nothing was damaged either.
Fucken eyh bro. So glad you got that damm stud out. Does NOT look fun at all 😂. Same situation here but stock wheels om a jeep. Never trust thise wheel guys man. Thanx for the video. God bless
.. GREAT and very informative video...thanks for actually taking the time to film this extremely demanding task and sharing with the world... Stuart (Glasgow, Scotland)
This happened to me too on my Lexus IS . My rear stud had no more “bite” and became loose with my lug nut. Couldn’t take wheel off so had to drill the stud and break lug nut
Awesome work getting that off, similar situation here. I however just made a small leveled rig for my corded drill to slowly pull the bit out and add high sulfur oil as lubricant and then repeat, that cutting oil works best for hardened steel and cheaper than buying expensive bits. Cheapo harbor freight bits worked for me but took a good 30 minutes to do. Those OEM Ford lug nuts are crap!
any recommendations on brands of oil? my mustang had one shear off my wheel stud and it’s been a nightmare since the car sat for a while and the front tires got flat it has a terrible vibration going down the road
I would’ve looked for one of those locking nuts that have the teeth on the bottom of them, tightened it against the broken lug nut and tried to back it out
