Carbon method 9 months later 

👍👍

I stared at the unopened box for a long time thinking it would be a long arduous process but it was insanely easy and I should have done it the day I received it.

Funny you say that I remember seeing some planers in the past that had grooves about a 3/16"deep and wide spaced about a 1/4" cut into the length of the out-feed table. Always wondered why, this might be the reason. Thanks and All the Best, Chuck.

Glad it was helpful!

My pleasure!

I live in the hot, muggy, rainy Southeastern USA and even with Boeshield, Paste Wax, etc have to deal with rust nearly weekly. It's been about 30 days since I did the process from Jason's video and I haven't seen as much as a speck of rust forming anywhere on the cast iron. Who knows what it will look like in 6-9 months from now but so far it's been worth it for me.

I live in Central Florida. WD40 has been more than enough to keep my cast iron rust free. Obviously, the more you use the surface, the more often you'll need to re-apply it, but it takes seconds.

@@davidgriffin7014 I'm in Central Florida as well. Are you applying the WD-40 as a rust preventative? What's the process like? I've honestly never even though to use it that way, only as a way to help remove the rust.

@@CordellWoodworks can confirm my shop is often in the 70s as far as humidity goes. I was always fighting rust with just paste wax, then boeshield and wax. I’ve had carbon coat on for 3+ months and not a speck of rust. Bonus my saw has been much slicker than it ever was before. I really do think there’s something too the little graphite pieces filling in the poors of the iron helping me with the big rust, but more importantly the little speckles.

@Cordell Woodworks I use the method Bent's made a video about. 3m red abrasive pad with my orbital sander. Slow passes in 2 directions. Then I wipe it clean and the impregnated WD 40 has been working great. My shop is enclosed, but moisture in the air here is high and it was a pain before. This is on my tablesaw and bandsaw

That would be awesome!

When I get to the end & the board turns to a fun sliding board down to the floor, I know it is done being jointed or planed.

I think you may be on the right track here. Have you ever been trained to use gage blocks? They are a precision setup tool used for lots of things in machine shop for setting up tools and jigs. They have very finely finished, smooth and flat surfaces. They have this interesting property that you can build up a stack of them by a technique called "wringing" them together. They stick together very firmly without any adhesives or magnetism. Just two finely finished surfaces brought into close contact in such a way as to exclude air. There are several theories about how this works, exactly, but the basic idea is that it only works if the surfaces both have a very finely polished, flat, and smooth finish. I've seen shallow parallel grooves cut into the bottom of a (hand tool) jointer plane, and I believe it MAY be for the purpose of reducing this effect as a source of friction in the jointing operation. I don't know that for a fact, it's just what I've heard those grooves are for. A freshly jointed surface will be about as perfectly flat and smooth as a piece of wood can get, and this is what you want, so maybe the solution is to modify the surface finish of the jointer outfeed table. You pointed out that the machining marks are visible on the table. It is possible that modifying the "rough cut" in the fabrication of a table could be modified in some way to reduce this effect without creating a final surface configuration that would damage the newly jointed piece of wood. I believe you mentioned that the maker is a buddy, or at least you are on speaking terms with him. Maybe you could suggest that he look into this and possibly offer to test some experimental versions of the outfeed table top.

Definitely not! I am switching to the Hammer K3 and the N4400

What's wrong with Harvey table saws? I have 1 and I am very happy with it. Not a fair comparison. Felder is on another level that most of us hobby woodworkers don't have the space or budget for. Looks like the trend is moving towards Felder for the RU-vidrs... Bents, Hooked On Wood and Finished Carpentry. Good for them and continued success for them as well.

@@stevenmasterson5871 I'm sure your Harvey is a decent enough machine, but it is just another Chinese mass-produced product marketed as affordable quality. Affordable maybe, quality not as much as advertised. If you look for honest RU-vid reviews, you'll find that many aren't as impressed with their Harvey machines as they had hoped for. A good friend of mine that is a very experienced woodworker and knows machines extremely well has a similar opinion of his Harvey. Remember many people that review products, especially technical and/or complex machines, don't have a clue what they are talking about. They are just excited to get a new "Harvey", you know, the one the internet is all a buzz about, and couldn't tell you if the thing was plugged in or not. Now is a Harvey better than any other Chinese made saws like a Jet, Grizzly, Laguna (Taiwan), etc., I don't know. That’s why when I can I buy Sawstop (Still U.S. made but owned by TTS which also owns Festool), Felder, Festool etc. Quality costs and I'm not supporting China when I can avoid it, because it really is self-defeating whether anyone wants to admit it or not. All the Best, Chuck.

You realize SS is made in Taiwan @@toolchuck

Hi, just as a friendly remember and for those unaware - be sure it is a non-silicon wax - couple years back I was careless on cleaning / polishing the table saw and bandsaw and had finish problems until I re-learned that silicon give you that 'fun-fun' fish-eye problem.

Congratulations 🎊🎈🎉🍾

1 application in 9 months?

I used paste wax sometimes weekly it never last very long.

@@gulzeb yep, works just fine

@@Danko88 I wax mine about once a year and they are rust free. Now, mine are kept in a shop and not an open area or garage with the doors opens all day long but, wax has been doing its job for me for over 40 years. There's always someone wanting to sell magic snake oil systems for $50-100

@@airnashville3883 Same here. I had to put my table saw in storage in a tent outside through the super wet winter we got in southern California this year - so I had to clean up a little rust after that. But when it's in the garage - I'll wax like every 6 months. No rust ever.