I was just commenting on The Wood Whisperer video where he applied it. I just applied it to my brand new Sawstop a couple of weeks ago and I know it’s too soon for long term review results but I can already tell it’s awesome. I live in southeast Alabama, and my last saw was a Grizzly G0691 and I ALWAYS had to re-clean it. I coated that with T9 Boeshield and paste wax and I would still get rust and oxidation very quickly afterwards, even just finger prints. So far this new saw with the Carbon Method is extremely noticeably better, super smooth and I’ve been using it while sweating my butt off, changing blades, touching the cast iron, not a single blemish yet. I love it. I found their application video to be perfect, I followed it to the letter and it went on as advertised. I also applied it to my bandsaw and jointer. Their customer service is top notch. I called late on a Saturday to find out their hours on a recording so I knew when to call back on Monday, to my surprise Dan answered the phone and talked to me for awhile and answered all my questions. I’d post a pic of my saw if I could.
First few days of my SS I inadvertently left a piece of slightly wet wood on it overnight.. Instant rust.. I use the rubber and metal pads to get rust off. Works for me then just wax every few days or so. I'm not particularly worried how pretty the surface is. It's a workshop. Shiny and bright is ok, but again..it's a workshop, not a kitchen sink.. You can spend your days polishing your saw or you can make a living. I choose to make a living.
@@martinoamello3017 I understand what you’re saying, and I think the same way. I’ve built two work benches in the last 8 years and I watched all these people using nice expensive hard maple or other fancy and expensive woods. I used 2x4’s, 6x6’s, and 2x6’s laminated. I know I’m going to be swinging mallets and chisels around on it, dinging and gouging it up, and getting stains and paint on it, occasionally throwing a lawnmower on it to service it. To me a work bench is just that, a work bench, it’s SUPPOSED to get beat up, if you’re using it right. With that said, for most of us (including serious wood workers) cast iron surfaces such as a table saw aren’t about being pretty, it’s about preserving your tools for long life use. When you dump $4k-$5k on a new SS like I did, I don’t want to have to buy another…….EVER AGAIN if I can help it. And, if the difference in that happening is because I care for my equipment, then that’s what I’ll do. You’re correct, who cares how pretty it looks, I can’t remember ANY time someone came into my shop to grade me on the beauty of my tools and how shiny my cast iron is. You mentioned putting the wax on it every few days. I use to do that, with this stuff I haven’t had to touch it at all anymore and it is super slick. My SS, band saw, and jointer/planer haven’t gotten a speck of rust or oxidation on it and I live in southeast Alabama, where it’s very humid and I have no air conditioning (my shop is my garage) and I sweat about a gallon of sweat every day I work in there.
@@martinoamello3017 I think the point of this product is that potentially you can *reduce* the maintenance time and also improve both appearance and *function* with this product. That's the idea anyway. I think I'll give it a try, nothing really to lose, except some hard-earned dollars. Did you even watch the video? It really didn't take much time at all to complete the cleaning and application. Compare this to your current practice of applying paste wax *every few days*? That seems like a lot of time wasted because your protection scheme is suboptimal. But hey, knock yourself out. If you want to spend all that time waxing your cast-iron work surfaces, no one else is going to object...
I've done similar prep work (Scotch Brite pad on an orbital sander with WD40 followed by a wipe down with mineral spirits) one time on my cast iron table saw top. Instead of using the carbon coating I then used Johnson's paste wax. By reapplying it once every month or so I've never had to clean rust off the table saw top again, it remains rust-free.
I also did the same thing. Worked flawlessly. Woodworking is expensive enough without spending 100 dollars on every space age product. You don’t need the blue towels either. Bounty works just fine.
That's exactly what I've been doing to my 80's craftsman table saw for 30+ yrs, she looks better than the day I bought her. The only thing I changed/up greated is, I changed out the 1hp single phase 120v motor to a 3hp 240v motor.
Exactly! Johnsons Paste Wax for me too. My woodshop is unheated in Ohio. I do keep all of the tables covered when not in use. Mostly to keep people from sitting their soda cans on them. Just some old salvaged 1/4” plywood. Nothing that might trap moisture like plastic.
Fantastic advice, thanks for the info. I was hoping to see a slightly cheaper version of a sealant. I have paste wax as a standard, but spending 100$ on a sealant would be hard to justify as a casual woodworker, but a few bucks for past wax is very doable!
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ru-vid.comUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
220 grit sandpaper, wipe clean, follow with car wax. Top doesn’t rust and wood slides super smooth. My 1990 craftsman cast iron table saw sits in my unheated garage year round in NH and is in perfect shape. It has done a lot of work.
I don't even own a table saw, so I really don't know why I'm watching this other than to make me wish I had room for one. Great explanation and demonstration. Thanks!
I’ve used the maroon Gator 6x9 scuffing pads (synthetic steel wool) 360 grit from my local Menards. Cut a circle to match my orbital sander and voila, day and night difference. Looks like new in comparison of the before and after pictures. Used denatured alcohol to remove the WD40, then sealed the surface with paste was. Thanks for the video.
This was a great video again Jason like everything u do and all of these r fun to watch and u are a great woodworker and a nice man and thank u for your service and I’ll always miss hanging out with u and can’t stop sir!!
There is a reason most wood workers and Auto Body Shops only use a Carnuba Wax. These other Automotive silicon, graphine, Ceramic,Teflon type product can transfer to materials that can make it impossible to put on a finish / repaint without issues. Just like nothing stuck to your truck, if it transfers from your tools or hands, paints and stains will no adhere proper for a new finish. Having 20 years in automotive refinish, this would be the last thing I would recommend putting one as a final coat. You are spot on with your cleaning steps, 3M Scotch Bite Res is a 320-400 grit equivalent grit which is very good with WD 40 and Acetone is a very good final wash product that evaporates fast and leaves no residue prior to a Carnuba Wax finish for tools IMHO
I work at a small sized non-climatized cabinet shop in coastal GA. To keep rust away,we coat 2 tablesaws,1jointer,4 shapers,and 1 edge sander twice a week with Johnsons paste wax. It takes a good 30 minutes each time ,am thinking this would save a lot of time.
Saw TWW's video and considered purchasing the kit and now after watching yours I'm going to give it a try myself here in humid Central Florida. Thank you!
It's quite clear to me that this is a commercial for Macy's plaid button up shirts for Dad's, which are made from 1200 thread Egyptian cotton and stretch fit to make any dad look his best
Looking at the stripes, I can see that is a well made shirt! And after further review, I realized that he cleaned and applied in a plaid design, as well!
It’s time to clean my Grandad’s 1963 craftsman tablesaw, my 20 year old delta bandsaw, and my new 8” jointer. I don’t want to think about all the hand planes needing this. Glad I found your video. It’s nice being in the shop thinking about those now long gone who used many of the tools I inherited.
Got a used table saw that was neglected, what I did was sand top with 220, cleaned with mineral spirits and waxed it..I'm telling ya it's the smoothest most buttery top ever...worked amazingly well and simple...seems there's several ways to do it...your way definitely works as well...
I used this same technique to clean and restore the bare-metal parts of several old letterpress printing presses, including a Kelly-B and a C&P Old Series 10x15 from 1911, but with an extra step. After the Scotch Brite bads with WD-40, I went over the entire thing again with a finer grade of Scotch pads, and used Marvel Mystery Oil. That gave me a nice bright finish. I also used mineral spirits to clean everything off, I sealed it with 3 coats of Nu-Finish NF-76 polymer car wax, applied over several days. That worked amazingly well. Maybe not as long-lasting as your ceramic product, but it costs less than $10 a bottle, and that bottle is enough to do every press I own a dozen times, which is 5 or 6 years worth of applications...
Good process. I found that if you live in humid areas or have differences in temperature in your shop you can get some condensation on those Iron table tops. To prevent that and also to protect against any contamination or worse....dings from stuff dropped on the ast iron I make covers out of 1/2" thick OSB that sit on top of the table tops. have been doing that for my band saw as well as metal lathe and milling machine ways. The OSB prevents condensation and provides great protection. Defintely very important to preserve your machinery. While this is imporant for saws....it is extremely important for metal lathe ways as they are finished to much finer and accurate tolerances than the saw tables. The OSB can be removed and reinstalled quickly and if it gets dinged or contaminated, it is cheap to replace.....that is why I don't use plywood for the same purpose. I have been using his method since 2005 and it works great. The wood covers breath whereas a plastic cover whould not and may cause conensation and rust damage.
3M Maroon Pads AKA SPP pads {surface preparation pads}. Are phenomenal for polishing many surfaces especially aluminum/ steel etc. Its grit factor falls around the 320 - 400 grit area and if washed out properly, can be reused a few times before it's degraded. And it can be used wet or dry.
So, I've been doing it like this for 20 years or so. The one thing I would recommend is to not use that sander with the vac, but instead get a random orbital 6 inch buffer and use that. You don't want WD40 in your good festoon sander hose and vac.
Great process man! Quick tip for people like me who use wood throat plates: make sure you remove it before cleaning :D I forgot the first time I conditioned my saw through a different process and permanently stained my throat plate :P didn't affect it's function, but looked bfugly.
Fantastic video! I just placed my order. Can't wait to get it and clean up my tools so they look like this! The saw looks brand new!! Thanks for the step by step video. On a different note, you had mentioned you changed your microphone. Personally, I think the other system sounded better. This seemed to have some more noise.
I used the same T-9 rust product you described and got the same undesirable staining result. It hasn't been a high priority for me to fix, but I'm glad you dropped an easy solution in my lap...top. Now I can skip the research and gitt'r done! Thanks.
It's amazing that people keep going for WD4. If you want a surface to be cleaned of all rust, the best product I have found for that is Zep 45. WD-40 is minor league compared to Zep-45 for rust cleaning and removal on metal. That is what I use for my vintage steel planes, chisels, and Pax handsaws.
Sorry but your still doing it wrong and working too hard. Use Evaporust to remove rust. No Scrubbing Then get your top surface ground flat to a fine finish. Finally get your top copper plated then Nickel electroplated, satin finish not bright nickel. It will never rust again. DONE.
@@mrgcav Problem with that is that it doesn't work on surfaces that get abraded a great deal. Such as handsaws, wood planes, and chisels, and other assorted metal hand tools. The plating rubs off. There is no free lunch. One still has to be proactive in taking care of one's tools. One could use any number of kraft papers that have negative ph wax, and are impregnated with chemicals that are rust retarding, and use the papers to wrap the metal tools in. That actually works; but, only after cleaning, and maintaining the tool, and afterwards wrapping them in the rust retardant brown papers. You can also do like some people who made their own "Poor Man's" Evaporust! Citric acid and water.
I cleaned min with lacquer thinner to remove oil than used 600 grit sandpaper and it removes everything. When that is wiped off completely and dry, I used gun blue to packetize the medal. It looks fantastic just like the finish on a gun, and wood will not scratch or leave any marks to the finish, once a week or so I use silicone spray... let it almost dry and buff it out with a shop towel, it stays slick through heavy use. Cost, under $10.00 for both products. No more surface rusting, at all, not even down here in Florida where the humidity 80% for the better part of the year. It's quite unique looking and I get a lot of compliments and comments. Just my 2 cents.
@@stevenbland2736 Did you wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of the silicone? Otherwise it's still impregnated on the surface of the metal and traces of that will get on your wood. If you've had no finishing problems, great, but it's best stay away from silicone altogether. There are better alternatives available.
@@H0kieJoe I have never noticed the slightest bit or traces of anything picked up by using the silicone. I since started using a ceramic coating that comes in a spray bottle, it works even better and again, no soiling of any kind on the wood.
Sorry but your still doing it wrong and working too hard. Use Evaporust to remove rust. No Scrubbing Then get your top surface ground flat to a fine finish. Finally get your top copper plated then Nickel electroplated, satin finish not bright nickel. It will never rust again. DONE.
Awesome video! Saw looks incredible! Just got some of the carbon coat, same kit you used and will be applying it soon! Thanks for the instruction, you are a great teacher.
Thanks for the info, looking forward to an update in the future regarding the longevity of the product. BTW, Nice Flip Flops in the shop. (I see another "Get Bent" for Hans in the making, LOL)
You are correct about the J/P surfaces in the design you have relative to effort when milling. The flat unbroken surface can start to exhibit what almost feels like suction on the workpiece as you get it flat when face jointing. So I'm not surprised that the surface prep you used improved performance for this task. Some machine manufacturers have a surface grind that is not continuous which naturally helps with face jointing wide boards. My SCM/Minimax machine is like that. But even there, adding a surface treatment kicks things up further. I may very well try the Carbon Coat product once I have my new shop building up and am doing maintenance on the machines. Thanks for your contribution to that conversation after Wood Whisperer's.
My SC4e and FS41e arrived two weeks ago. I did end up ordering the Carbon Method products and I'll be removing the cosmoline this weekend and apply the Carbon Method products. I'm down in Austin, so not a high humidity area and a conditioned workshop, but I'm very curious how this holds up and how the performance of the surface feels.
@@pr0jektcha0s My SC3C is about to arrive and I'm considering this treatment for it. Congrats on your new machinery! I used another product on my FS350 after dealing with a condensation rust issue this past winter in my temporary shop so I'm guessing I'd need to find a way to remove that before doing the Carbon Coat treatment...I'll have to investigate that.
@@jimbecker5675 Jim, I knew you retired and moved. Did you stay in PA? We spoke many, many years ago. I grew up in Carlisle, so I know how brutal the humidity is up there. I'd have to treat my equipment darn near every other week to prevent rust. Here, not as much of a problem and my new shop is fully air conditioned. I'm waiting for a pallet jack I ordered before I finish setting up the SC4e since it's near a wall I can't get to it at the moment. 🙂I'll report back how the Carbon Method product works out. For me it will be more friction performance than anything. However, I'm cleaning up my old equipment that was temporarily in storage for about a two years. Unfortunately, water got into the unit and caused rust on everything and I'm trying to clean them up to sell most of it now that my new hardware arrived. This is not fun work.
@@pr0jektcha0s Retired in 2017. Always have lived in PA, but we moved last spring to our "downsize" property "in town" here in central Bucks County. It's much "wetter" here than at the old property, despite only being 10 miles. Very high water table, etc. I never had rust in over 20 years at the old shop, even before the minisplit went in. But having to open the "big door" of the temporary gara-shop a couple of warm days in December made for a rust party. I never had to coat things in the past; now I do. The new shop building, going up next month, will be conditioned, but I'm hedging about the moisture and definitely coating; either with what I used a few months ago or with this new Carbon Coat magic. :)
BTW nice approach to bring back the original finish look. There was a product I purchased at IWF in Atlanta some 30+ years ago which I still have but is no longer available under the original name. It was called Kitty Speed and one can lasts forever. No longer available under that imported name but can still be purchased as "Silbergleit". It is made in Germany and it does a great job keeping the surface clean and slick. We used it on our 16 our jointer, planer and table saws. It is made for woodworking tools and I highly suggest giving it a try. Kind of expensive but again you may never buy another can again since it lasts so long.
I haven't had rust in 20 years. That's when I started using an air conditioner and a small dehumidifier in my shop for winter. I keep the temp 70 Deg. give or take 3 Deg. and try to keep it under 50% humidity. No coatings or protection is needed. I wish I could keep a Blanchard grinder pattern on my cast iron. Shiny is nice, but the Blanchard pattern says "new and flat".
I found the best way to keep my table tops in shape is to clean with disk brake cleaner wipe it clean and apply a good car wax and it's good for about a month.
I heard about this on the podcast, and was looking forward to seeing it. I'm sold! I think this will be very popular soon. Thanks for the in depth application!
I’m actually going to try this with my DA polisher, finishing compound and a ceramic coat. I have the hybrid solutions spray which is only $15 a bottle. Lasted a little over 6 months in my car so should last forever on the saw. A better ceramic/graphine coating should last a life time. Curious what a clay bar would pick up as well.
I had a small rikon bandsaw that had rust on it and before selling it I used barkeepers friend and a scotchbrite pad. Then wiped and cleaned it off after, then sprayed with WD40, then a final coating with paste wax. It worked great. The barkeeper's friend removed everything (just like it does on stainless steel pots).
Just got my carbon coat stuff this evening. Gotta get some mineral spirits and towels and applying this weekend. I'm in South east AK so... we're a temperate rain forest here. Humidity is a way of life.
Every shop i ever worket at used wd40 or crc 6-56. Both work. In florida its very humid and usually not air conditioned. Miss the spray down on friday and yoy WILL be sanding monday morning!
Excellent meticulous video. Interesting to see someone who is as OCD as I am😬about my little shop & tools. Now I have to try & track down this Carbon Method product for sale in/to Canada.
In the textile industry we did much the same the final coating was light coating of coco nut oil. I was never given what the reason for this , just that’s the way it was done for years
Your videos are so detailed, well presented and enjoyable. I don't know whether I can get Carbon Method products in the UK, but I will investigate. Thanks Jason
After the WD40 cleaning, I also wipe it down with acetone. I don't know if this is true, but I figured I don't want any WD40 interfering with the sealing coat.
I remember reading about graphene in Popular Science, like a decade ago?, thinking how cool it will be when it finds its way into commercial products. Was also v. keen after watching Spags vid. Looking forward to your long-term review. Great information as always, and I’ll be calling your cleaning technique the “Bent Method” from now on. Your work surface looks immaculate!🤙🏻
I use a penetrating oil (Aerokroil Penetrating Oil / WD20) for initial cleaning. I then use a solvent to remove residue oil. I finish with (CRC Electrical Silicon Lubricant). Leaves surface dry and slick as heck!
Great info, this is what I’ve been looking for. Kohl’s for dad plaid and some Sweet Shop Sandals. But seriously I love good looking cast iron tops, and hand plane body’s.
Great advice and video! It's interesting that you mention the maroon pad's abrasives are just effective enough to remove unwanted material --- ON -- the surfaces, without removing any of the wanted material... ( I summarized[?] -- restated[?] ) These are -- The Only -- pads recommended by Extreme Accuracy Distance Shooters and Gunsmiths --- for polishing the bore in new rifle barrels --- New premium barrels are as perfect as modern machining can achieve. But! But! But! Machining and Tooling were not perfect. Very small, and often microscopic, burrs and tooling marks contributute to the accumulation of copper and lead "fouling" in the barrels and rifling. Each round fired through a barrel, slightly changes the absolutely critical contact environment... which means: -- No Consistency! -- Whether shooting competitively, or for hunting, the elimination of "variables" is --- Key!"--- to success. Maroon "Scotch Bright" pads used (Very Sparingly) as a step in "Accurizing" a rifle, is able to remove virtually all "little sharp thingies" from the equation, And! They achieve a level of polishing that reportedly adds a great deal of improvement. However! Importantly, the experts warn that excessive use --- more than 3-5 times pushing/pulling them through a rifle bore --- !WILL REMOVE THE WANTED BASE MATERIAL! So, yeah... slightly abrasive, but still abrasive. DON'T OVER-DO IT. Too much "cleaning and polishing" with power tools can eat away your surfaces. 🤔 😁 😎
This video is SUPER timely. I just inherited an older Grizzly jointer that has a lot of surface rust. I used to do a wire wheel, WD-40, NAPTHA, and paste wax. This looks like stubborn goobers will be easier to tackle. I noticed your ROS had the dust collection attached, I’m presuming you weren’t actively using dust collection, correct?
Like Marc showed just don't get standing water on your cast iron. No product protects against standing water including this snake oil. FWW did an article on all the different cast iron treatments and none of them worked any better than the others for their torture test. T9 and wax works fine and is a hell of a lot cheaper and faster. Just keep water off your cast iron including wood/wood dust that has moisture in it. You will be fine. Refresh the finish every 6-12 months and all will be well.
Brent check out Turtle Wax ceramic coating $15 and you can coat stuff to your arm falls off, I put it on my bandsaw last year and it's still exactly as bright as it was the day I put it on
I would go to my basic chemistry classes on the use of cleaners that can be called "solvents"... WD-40 is just a light oil diluted with and carride by some light petroleum fraction called a "light Naphta"... That light oil and its naphta carrier will dissolve most NON-POLAR substances like wood resins, sap and similar residues from cutting, planning or "machining" the wood, specially the more resinous or "sappy" species. But after using WD-40 (or similar solvents), their traces will still be on the cast iron (or any other metal or non metal surfaces)... Thus, ANOTHER kind of cleaning solvent should be used in order to remove ALL the "oily", Non-polar substance residues, before applying the preferred coating, either that "carbonous" ultramodern one, or the old but still effective "paste wax", to get the coating truly adhered to the surface. My recommendation is to try to get the OLDER, chlorinated type of Brake Cleaner (Not that newer, Ecophanatic obligued "Chloro/Fluoro carbon free, Eco-ilogical" one), as it is the best and less aggresive (for the lungs!) solvent that TRULY removes almost perfectly all traces of greasy, oily residues that the WD-40 still leaves on any surface it touches!, as all cetones like Acetone or MEK, while stiil the best solvents, will need a good Organic Vapor respirator to be safe for your lungs and respiratory health.
Hi Jason. A very informative video and I applaud the thorough way in which you present it. I hope I can get this product in the UK, as I need to treat my bandsaw and table saw. Keep up the good work. Colin
Jason, great video - very timely as I've got some surface rust starting due to a humidity issue in my shop. I see the hose was connected to the sander, but I presume you were NOT vacuuming the sludge? Can you confirm? Thanks!
Great video - thanks! QUESTION... I have a lathe and it's only about a year old. I spent about 2 hours cleaning it via maroon scotchbright pad and orbital sander, wiping with blue shop towels. I must have gone over it 15 times already and my towels are still coming up black. I noticed on your video that at the point you said you were done and before putting down mineral spirits that your towel looked black as well. I have changed the pads several times, but it's still black and showing zero signs of lessening. Do you think that the process of scouring the surface is what is producing the black residue? Should I just move on to the mineral spirits at this point? The lathe LOOKS very clean, but the towels say otherwise.
My 2¢... If I'm reading this right... The black that you continue to wipe up after scotch-briting, is the microscopic bits of cast iron you are removing with EVERY scrubdown with the scotchbrite. STOP scrubbing your metal off. There is such thing as too much of a good thing. That's one thing which was not covered in this video. Strong abrasives should only be used sparingly, evenly, and carefully, or you risk ruining a finely machined, perfectly flat surface! We must be careful not to ruin our precision (and expensive) machines by over-loving them with polishing/grinding/abrading. The process outlined in the above video should only (need to) be done once or twice during the life of the tool. Now, if restoring rusty axe and hammer heads, you don't need to be nearly as concerned with because they're not precision tools. Cheers!
To remove all the dirt: Hot boiling detergent water and steam cleaning like you are doing diesel cylinders, then ATF and acetone 50/50 mix. Break the grease and oil bond.
Just ordered the products from Carbon Method --- They should be giving you a cut! I've been using the WD40 cleaning method for decades on my '82 Craftsman TS, which is my workhorse, and using Boeshield Glide Coat but having to do it a couple times a year is a PITA. I would compare my top to yours (pre Carbon) any day. Looking forward to a change ... fingers crossed!
Hi, thanks for the video...one thing I didnt notice pointed out is you need to wait 60 MINUTES BETWEEN COATS...lots of great detail on waiting 60 seconds between steps etc...but it sure appeared to me that I could recoat in 60-90 seconds etc...not correct....just something maybe point out in the detailed video.
A word of caution. I made my table saw top very slick one time and all my magnetic jigs would not “stick” properly. Maybe just make it slick on the fence side of the blade?
This is just an excellent presentation in every way possible. I usually use a random orbital sander with black wet/ dry paper, but this is so superior. Thank you so much for this excellent instruction. Well done. You have another subscriber.
Amazingly effective way to clean the cast iron top. Bought an old table saw with a terrible looking top. Once I applied this method, it really looks amazing. Wish I could post a picture.
Sorry but your still doing it wrong and working too hard. Use Evaporust to remove rust. No Scrubbing Then get your top surface ground flat to a fine finish. Finally get your top copper plated then Nickel electroplated, satin finish not bright nickel. It will never rust again. DONE.
Well. I’m nearing cleaning my garage out here in SC after 11 years of no use, i know it needs some TLC. it’s an older Craftsman Table saw before they started making “junk” overseas. Looks like a lot of work but think this will be work it. I was just impressed with another WD-40 wonder to clean it. just gotta see how i’m gonna remove some glue from the top (blow torch likely) See what happens. thanks
How did this hold up? I know you have different tools and you don’t have the same table saw. I have an old Delta cabinet saw. When I got it I had to get it cleaned up. It was bad. That was about 4-5 years ago. I need to clean it up. And a couple other tools.
For my little wood lathe and “portable” “table saw”, I just use the red scotch brite and WD-40 then wipe it and “clean with 99% ISO, and protect with RemOil. But, I think I’m going to get this kit, because my method works great, but doesn’t last long.
When using the sander, you don’t have the vacuum suction on right? I’d assume not since it would probably want to suck up the grime inside the hose. Just checking since I overthink things 🙃
One thing I noticed and did not pick up if you mentioned it, the directions say wait 60 minutes between coats. I made the mistake of not reading that. Hopefully it wont be a big issue.
try a big piece of granite 2" thick 18" length 15" wide and if necessary use 2 pieces of 320 plus WD 40. Then put those pads on the granite and you will level out your table. I know because I had done what you are doing. Just push and pull the granite
I’ve got an issue. I haven’t been doing it wrong because I’ve been using a ROS with a maroon or white abrasive pad for a long while. I don’t have a big issue with rust but more with chemical stains. WD40 is being used as a lubricant - so any similar liquid would be fine.
You appeared to use the vacuum on your Festool random orbital sander. Perhaps it was attached because the cord and vacuum hose are together. Otherwise it would not be good to run paint thinner through your vacuum. As you mention people are posting videos on this product yet the benefit is only proven by the manufacturer. It would be interesting to take pieces of cast iron and apply different products that claim to work and compare results.
When in H.S. metal shop making metal things such as a customer tool box I would have to clean the rust off my bare metal project before I worked on it. But once together and painted I was ok. I stil have that now red custom made tool box decades later. My point is if and when you clean the oil or rust off the metal or iron surface such as your table saw top why not clear coat or paint it with something like a tough paint or a polyurethane type of coating ? I would do the poly my self I think.
Jason - thank you for the videos. I enjoy your material. My question - using the RO sander, do you present swirl marks on the cast iron ? The prevention wisdom was to use straight strokes fore and aft . Thank you in Advance
I use the same pads to get rid of any oxidation and then apply two coats of paste wax. It seems like a big waste of time and money to do more than that.
This surely sounds like an awesome product but I have to wonder how good it will inhibit rust formation if the cast iron is in an unconditioned shop (no HVAC). I live in Southern NJ and my detached workshop has no HVAC. I have both woodworking and metalworking machine tools which will rust anytime there is an abrupt change in weather from cold followed by a warm humid front rolling in. Any bare metal sweats and rusts unless I the tables with plastic sheet or keep a film of grease or oil on the other bare metal.
Hey Brent, 6-months later I'd be interested in how well both the Carbon Glide and Method have held up? How often have you decided to re-apply the Glide? Great videos, and congrats on the inroads you've forged with Festool...very cool.
@@bentswoodworking you should update the video description with this VERY important information, and great video and time you spent detailing just about everything
@@bentswoodworking I'm surprised by your results. I thought I followed your method perfectly and I can barely push a 7.5" piece of cherry across my jointer. I finally gave up and went back to Bostik Glidecoat
Hey Jason, nice video. I’m tired of waxing, but would like to know how is it holding up a year later? What kind of maintenance, if any, have you had to do? Thanks!
What I don't get, Is how did your cast-iron get rusty in the first place? Does your shop not have any humidity control? I don't know, I mean for me I'd want to protect my equipment however I could from moisture.
