RV's are cheaply built with low grade materials. But a good/name brand Cargo trailer, you get what you pay for! If you look a a cheap trailer check out the welds! And the grade of steel used! I seen a guy buy a cheap large trailer brand new and he got took to the cleaners! Leaking seals, cracked welds etc! I have a 6/12 I built about 10 yrs ago. Just got finished with the second remodel. A couple things I have done on this second remodel is that I applied Cool Seal to my roof, even insulted it still drew a ton of heat being aluminum. I had it tinted to a light tan color seeing that I painted the exterior in camo. The next best thing I done was insulated underneath it and also enclosed it with roofing tin using self tapping screws and a product called NP-1 to seal all the joints. This eliminates any drag when being towed! My first pull was up to the N Ga mountains and while driving up there I looked down to see that I was doing 65mph where usually I'd be running around 45-50 mph. A game changer when adding up fuel cost. I also put in a portable toilet. Nothing fancy but it beats going in the woods when it's snowing outside!
Put a sky light in that hole for the ac and get a mini split system. Add a composting toilet in a wet bath configuration and a Murphy bed opposite your desk and you’re done.
Putting a window in your door would be the least invasive, easiest solution for some daylight. There are also windows narrow enough to fit between the uprights of your trailer frame that can help with light and ventilation when you need it as well. A really good fan in the ceiling is everyone’s favorite upgrade on a build. You and your buddy did a fantastic job on your trailer. Keep us posted on the changes here and there. Your feedback on the results of your choices are super helpful to everyone.
Thanks for saying that! And that’s a great tip about the door window. I hadn’t even considered that as an option; but now that you mention it, I think that would be a perfect solution.
All in all, you did a really nice job there. There will almost always be some things you might want to change once you have used it for a while. But those are opportunities not problems. Looks like you are on the right track to me. Well done, Sir.
I'm so glad you've touched on the natural light from windows and the other necessities. I just purchased a 7x 18ft and had a vent installed to give some lighting. I do plan to add more windows..it's a must! I'm just trying to find my way with the steps of my conversion. Luv the pallet wall & thanks for sharing your build.
Excellent video - thanks!! I have also thought of redoing a cargo trailer as a camper in order to achieve a higher level of quality than traditional RVs have.
Killer Build!! i’m in the very beginning stages of my journey to converting a cargo trailer into a toy hauler. There’s not many videos out here that are specific like this one. I’d like to reach out to you and pick your brain at some point. Thanks Man👊🏼
@@robincramer8080 black attracts Heat. Thus the trailer gets really hot like an oven. It's the same concept as the bag style showers. Those bags are black so the sun heats the water inside. Same concept for a black cargo trailer.
As far as a bathroom; you could use a composting toilet so you don't need a blackwater holding tank. You can utilize some very slim holding tanks for your freshwater & greywater tanks that would fit under the trailer nicely without sacrificing a great deal of ground clearance. The closer you keep the tanks to the axles, the less chance you have of bottoming out, and the weight distribution would be better. A very small pre-fab stand-up shower would be the best option. An on-demand 12V water pump (for RV's/boats) would be an easy install. To save space, use a small bar sink for your bathroom sink . . . Maybe even skip the bathroom sink and install the sink in your countertop under the cabinets. GREAT BUILD! I'd be quick to say the lack of windows wouldn't bother me. But, in reality, it would be nice to have a window, or two.
Thanks! Super helpful stuff. And yea.. when I was initially planning this build, I didn't think the lack of natural light would bother me. In fact, I THOUGHT I would appreciate being able to close everything up and have complete darkness at times. But it got to me over time. In regards to the composting toilet- Do you have any specific models/brands that you would recommend? Thanks again!
@@benseabrook7655 composting toilets are stupid-expensive! In preparing to move off-grid, I built my own and tested it before relying on it solely (I currently still have indoor plumbing! LOL) I've been pleased with what I built for less than $50, and there is absolutely no odor! Utilizing the standard bags that go into commercial composting toilets makes clean-out a breeze. This may appall some folks, but disposal of the bags is as simple as tossing it into a dumpster! There are no laws (in most places) that prohibit such an act. I built a box that houses a 5-gallon bucket and included a urine diverter because that's where the smell will be created. With the use of a standard toilet seat/cover, it looks quite conventional. I made my wood box large enough to store wood chips in to cover the solid waste, which also eliminates odor. (I use cedar chips). I empty the urine bottle into flowerbeds because some plants thrive on it . . . I don't pour it onto my edible plants! LOL
Ben Seabrook The three big name commercially available composting toilets are the Air Head ($1,029), the Nature’s Head ($925) and the C-Head ($699). Most van lifers go with the Nature’s Head. But, in order to empty the contents the Air Head and Nature’s Head have to be dismantled. Bing a full time wheelchair user I don’t think my abilities will make that possible for me. So, I’m looking at the C-Head. The C-Head was designed by boat people to be used on boats. The #1 liquid is collected in a standard 1 gallon water jug and the #2 matter is collected in a 5 gallon bucket, and both can be accessed by simply lifting the toilet seat. The C-Head is also the only one that can be made ADA compliant. I do think with the right skills and time it would be easy to make a composting toilet similar to the C-Head for less money. Unfortunately, I don’t think that’s an option for me. I hope that helps.
Bathroom can be simple! Bag all poop so no black water tank! Use 3 x 7.5 gallon fresh water tanks with valves and hoses. Store them up a bit for gravity to do the work. Have a small shower head that can be used for cleaning, washing, bathing, etc... Trickle water... Flat basin on the floor which can hold water or drain out via a larger flex tube. Don't put anything nasty in the basin so you can just drain where appropriate. Poop and pee can be bagged and discarded appropriately. If you use paper towels and tp bag them up with the poop and pee. Try not to cook greasy food and messy smelly crap! Do most cooking outside! Heat just water or warm pre made dishes. Small microwave if so inclined. Air-conditioning, 5000 btu manual Walmart window style is plenty $155. Make a flush or regressed box or even cut a perfect sided rectangle for mounting. Never overrun ac, just cool things off. 5000 btu is good for the size. Heat can be done hundreds of ways, just be careful to not suffocate or burn. Serious caution! Keep it simple and style and fashion should not be the priority, form and function, and cost, should be... MarkMannM2
Yes. Light is important. Realize tho that also lets in the cold or heat, so you might want 2 in opposite locations, to be small and double pane, & swing out for Ventilation . This is important but I don’t suggest it from up on the roof- too much heat. And USB fans are very quiet. Rv fans are all loud.
I use a hula hoop with shower curtain, stand in a tub, heat 5 gallons of water with immersion water heater, pour into sea to shore shower and I shower in my enclosed trailer. Pour out the shower water when I'm done. I also have a cassette toilet. When the shower curtain dries it all stores easily.
I am planning one now... Marine grade skylights and exhaust fans (one skylight near the rear will also act as an escape hatch, another over the kitchen area with an exhaust fan)... I am also getting double doors in the rear, that I can open to expose a picture window in a (movable) wall... My desk will double as a Murphy Bed (up desk, down bed) running water and probably a double (top / bottom, both half size) dish washer, that will also store all the dishes, etc. Propane will feed an exterior grill, (removable) one burner cook top, DWH, and heat... it will also power my 220V 30A generator... (plan to pull it with a Tesla Cybertruck) I will be able to recharge the truck 10+ times with (1) 20 lb propane bottle...
Add a window in our cargo trailer to let in light...works great plus you can actually see if someone comes to the door (if you put it on the passenger side). PLUS...get 2 sissor jacks and use them under the ramp to raise it to the same level as the trailer bed, and, BINGO, patio! That's what I did on mine!!
Have to say, those cabinets look amazing. My actual house cabinets look like trash compared. For the bathroom, consider a "wet bath" design. Basically, the entire "room" can get wet. Have a toilet and shower in the same "room". For water, a freshwater tank and an RV water pump will work. For hot water, can go with the RV propane water heater. Would need a low-flow showerhead though, like really low-flow, to make the water last longer and the hot water last longer. How to get a wet bath, might have to use fiberglass. Just be sure the "floor pan" is sloped toward the drain properly. Would need a gray water tank of the same size or slightly bigger than the fresh water tank. Sure, you could dump it on the ground but that is kind of taboo and a bit disrespectful to the property owners the trailer is sitting on. Then, of course, you would have to use biodegradable non-toxic soaps if you did that. For the toilet itself, if you're willing to rough it a little, a bucket with an attachable toilet seat, good garbage bags, and sawdust will do the trick. Otherwise, might want to invest in a composting toilet that is waterproof or can be made waterproof. If you go with a standard RV toilet, you will also need a black tank for the poo/pee which will complicate matters further.
The 5 gallon bucket n toilet seat works great, i use them for camping a lot, also the other camping toilet seat that folds up without the 5 gallon bucket works good also, this is all you need for a cheap toilet, n you can throw away your bags of hunan waste if a dumpster is near by, or dig a hole a bury it in desert or forest, or get container to store them until you can throw them away
I put some information about composting toilets under Crushing The Box comment. As far as running water at a sink, the easiest way is to use two 2.5 to 5 gallon jugs under the sink. One jug is the fresh water and the other is the gray water. Run a hose from the fresh water tank to a pump (hand, foot, or electric) to the faucet. It’s just cold water, but it works in most cases. You could add a water heater, but the cost for the heater and electrical or gas for the amount of use probably isn’t justified. Then connect the sink drain to the gray tank. You can use Big Kahuna portable shower or solar shower for an easy shower system.
Thanks Dan, that's the exact setup I am planning to go with for the sink. I've looked into some of the portable/outdoor showers, but my ultimate goal is to convert the V-nose room into a (tight-fitting) shower/toileting combo bathroom. There are several hurdles there, however considering all of my electrical is also running through that space. I hear electricity and water don't go together very well.
Look at horse trailers with living quarters plans for bathrooms.. There is also a Facebook group called Horse trailer conversion; for converting horse trailers and livestock trailers to travel trailers. Horse trailers are usually taller than cargo trailers, or easier to find a Draft or TB high trailer for height. Most horse trailers will normally have a back door and a separate ' man door, built in. Usually stronger too.
WOW! GREAT JOB. YOU EXPLAINED EVERYTHING WELL. IT IS BEAUTIFUL. I HAVE THE SAME SIZE CARGO TRAILER TO PULL BEHIND MY RV, JUST FOR STORAGE SPACE. LOTS OF SOLAR AND ELECTRICITY. AIR CONDITIONING. I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING THE SHED YOU ARE RENOVATING.
I just found your channel. I live in Alabama, Northwest corner. I currently have an 8.5x16 that I have "sort of" converted but have some more work to do on it. I'm in the process of installing a composting toilet. My grandsons and I camp and ride dirt bikes. It works well for us so far.
Toilet. Nice cabinet designed for a 5 gallon bucket. Mount a seat on top with a lid. Bucket is hidden from view. Use cedar shavings and sawdust for compost to absorb moisture and smell. Easy and portable. Water: 20/30 gallon tank hidden under bed. Water pump under sink pumps water to on-demand water heater. Pass through wall to use as shower outside. AC: get a portable ac unit from Lowes. Quiet and it removes humidity too. Dometec is junky.
It came out very pretty, I like that you put insulation in the floor and calked the gaps because I know how bad the literal holes are in the cargos, but in worried that you didn't put in more layers insulation in your roof and walls and seal it with aluminum tape.
When u have the trailer built....have manufacturer to not install the inside paneling wood pieces....just lay them on the floor.....u can install after u install insulation.......look at the hours of labor you can save yourself......anyways just a tid bit of info for future cargo trailer converter enthusiasts.......
Great video, Awesome Trailer Build, & thank you for sharing your experience. I'm in the middle of deciding between a cargo trailer conversion or toy hauler trailer for snowbirding purposes and really appreciate you sharing your experience.
I have a 12 x 6 shasta. I use a bucket toilet for now. It's $15 and can go in your closet with no plumbing. I just use bio blue and empty it into a regular toilet or porta john the camp grounds I stay at typically have. Easy low maintenance no install option I found at Walmart.
Very nice trailer. I was waiting to see you adding the windows but oh well at least its that much more secure. Lovin' the look of the pallet wall as well. I'm definitely going to use this as inspiration. I'm going more for a half toy hauler half camper but looking at anyone's videos for ideas and tips. Thanks and great video.
Easy fixes 1 split aircon .. rubber or spring mount the compressor outside where the hutch is 2 put a sky light where the rooftop aircon was 3 build a false wall with a door and windows at the end where the ramp is 4 compost toilet
They have some really nice canapés that will turn your ramp gate into a enclosed patio with windows and screened in area. This will give you light and some air.
Install water tanks under the floor with 12v pump to start with & set up a sink with coffee maker. A Windows or skylight would make a huge difference. I have built RVs in the past.
Thanks for those suggestions. The more I think about it, the more I think skylights would be the best way to go. Still hides the fact that the trailer is a camper conversion but also resolves my natural light issue. Thanks again!
That's a good point, Larry. I researched the topic of exterior color before I bought a trailer and found very conflicting reports on how it affects heat absorption/reflection. I chose the slate gray/black color solely because I prefer how it looks. I can't say with certainty how much it plays into the temperature in the summer, but it certainly does not help.
Remount the ac outside on the frame and run a vent in. Place a sky light/window in the hole left behind from the ac. You will get more natural light and eliminate the sound.
I would put a raised platform in the nose And put a septic tank under that and a toilet on top. Cargo trailers are pretty low to the ground so that would be the way to go....in my opinion. Very nice trailer you have there.
The 5 gallon bucket n toilet seat works great, i use them for camping a lot, also the other camping toilet seat that folds up without the 5 gallon bucket works good also, this is all you need for a cheap toilet, n you can throw away your bags of human waste if a dumpster is near by, or dig a hole a bury it in desert or forest, or get container to store them until you can throw them away Can buy both at walmart or get them off Internet
nice build, thanks for sharing! Dude, the brisk II get's terrible reviews, just do a mini split, you have the room for it! will be night and day difference!
Have windows put in. Use a tankless on demand water heater. Do a cassette toilet, and small shower pan. Can do a combo, if you need room to store water. Cargo trailers do not have allot of room under for tanks. Pop up campers have cassette toilet set ups with shower to research it. Accept you would have walls. Cassette toilet will have to be emptied, has better way then just port a poddy. No black tank involved. Grey water tank for shower and sink can be portable on out side.
Good suggestions there, Lee. I've gotten a lot of mixed/conflicting suggestions on toilet options so I'm still trying to do my research there. I think tanks under the trailer is definitely going to be the way to go, though.
HI BEN, MY CARGO TRAILER WAS JUST DONE BY A RV SHOP. THEY ADDED A SINK TOILET COMBO TO IT. IT IS SMALL AND I HAVE A NICE BATHROOM IN MY RV, SO I WON'T BE USING IT. IT IS SITTING IN THE TRAILER. IT IS COMPACT AND ONLY MAYBE A MONTH OLD. LET ME KNOW IF YOU WOULD BE INTERESTED IN PICTURES. IT IS THE PERFECT SIZE FOR YOUR CLOSET. MY CARGO IS THE SAME COLOR AND SIZE AS YOURS, I ONLY NEED IT FOR STORAGE.
THAT IS THE SAME COMBO I HAVE IN MINE. I DON'T PLAN ON USING IT BECAUSE I HAVE THE CASSETTE IN THE RV. I DIDN'T ASK FOR IT AND IT TAKES UP MORE ROOM THAN I LIKE. IT WOULD BE GOOD FOR HIM THOUGH.
My man I really enjoyed seeing this. I am about to take a different path in my life and live a nomadic lifestyle. I have a Harley. I would want to bring. I'm also a scuba diver. So a place for a gasoline engine air compressor to fill my scuba tanks. A bed ... full size.. a battery bank charged by solar. Power inverter. I have also wanted an air conditioner of some kind. A 12v refrigerator/freezer . A small sink . I also considered if no sun a wind turbine to charge the battery bank. And in transit use tha alternator to charge or trickle charge. I will need a total of 2 to 4 a/c voltage outlets. I have many ryobi batteries. And a 6 pack charger and battery tender for my bike. Please give me your personal pros and cons on my idea. Thank you for your time. D. Brown
Your viewers should also consider weight. Your floor installation added a lot of weight. Spray foaming the underneath is the way to go. Keeping the weight down will save any additional cost involved in a light built. All aluminum trailer, aluminum cabinets are more costly up front but long term fuel costs add up quickly.
The trailer weighed right at 2400 pounds (curb weight) when I bought it. After adding everything (insulation, flooring, cabinets, etc..) it still weighs under 4000lbs. I was still able to pull it relatively easily with our 4Runner. So I wouldn’t be too concerned with weight.
Ben there is a lot of video's on youtube about converting Cargo trailers I have seen some really nice bath rooms in Cargo trailers. Check out I ride tiny house Adventures on youtube he also has a face book page called Tiny House Adventures family. There is a guy on there that has done a lot of cargo trailers his name is John Hiser they can give you some good advice. I am doing mine simple and not as nice but all I'll do in it is sleep because I am outdoors as much as I can be. Good luck yours looks great by the way but to much class for what I want I wouldn't go in mine if it looked that good. Plus mine is small because some of the places I like to camp takes a 4 wheel drive to get to and now and then a 4 wheel drive tractor. Lot's of mud out there.
Nice job for your first build. Great tip on adding more ceiling height. Did you cut channels in the rigid foam for the wiring or wire it first then lay on the foam?
Hey Scott- we wanted to keep the electrical as easily-accessible as possible; so we installed the ceiling insulation first, and then cut channels in it through which we ran the electrical for the lights and A/C.
Next month I'm going to buy a 20 foot moving truck. I want to create a small 10 x 7 living space near the cab, and then I'll wall off the back half. It'll have 2 uses: during the day it'll be used for making short/local hauls in town for people for things like furniture; that will be an easy source of income each day; $100/Load. In the evening as a ministry option, the back area will easily get turned into a nice space to sleep in, so that a homeless person can stay warm and safe. I can either make them a meal, and provide them with a food, water, clothes, hygiene products, a Bible, the hammock & sleeping bag that they slept in, and $100 cash. I need to give a huge shout out to Josh who has a YT channel called: "ACTS INITIATIVE. This week I was really inspired by his amazing 24 part series called "Dead Church", that talks about the importance of not living above and beyond, but living to constantly help others who desperately in need. So this is why I'm excited to be moving out of a stick & brick next month.
I am a amature photographer who is working on a cargo van conversion that also lives in Alabama. Where are you located and what is your main direction in photography? Great video. Thanks for the insights.
It will probably be a year or so before I can buy my cargo trailer. You gave me some great advice. I would like to know how you determined your ceiling height? I plan on living full time in my trailer. I am short 5'3" but am thinking of doing a murphy bunk bed for my grandchildren when they want to spend time adventuring with Grandma. I'm also thinking of radiant floor heat along with more insulation. Do you use solar power?
Thanks for the tips Ben...lookin' good! :) Quick ? Do you know about how much weight you added with your build? Wondering if you have any issues with towing using all that beautiful wood so high up on the walls. (weight distribution is an odd concern of mine I guess...lol) Wish I had a friend who knows about electricity because I too have a fear of messing with wiring!
I actually don't know how much weight we added in total. I know when I bought the trailer, it was sitting just over 2,000lbs. I think the flooring was BY FAR the heaviest component we added. Overall I speculate we added MAYBE 1000-1500lbs. Which would put the total weight at around 3500lbs. I was able to tow it a short distance with our 4runner(5000lb towing capacity) but it was definitely a little bit of a struggle. We've since swapped to a Yukon(8100lb towing capacity) and it pulls like a dream now. Thanks for the question, I hope this helped!
Nice build. It looks beautiful. Weight seems to be over looked with many of these builds. It could add up fast with the addition of battery banks and holding tanks. You could have it weighed before you continue adding equipment. Sometimes truck stops or landfills have weigh stations. Even if the vehicle will tow it consider the limitations of the tires and axle.
Thank you for the info. I am looking to have one custom built to my specs so I can turn it into a toyhauler. My dimensions are 8.5x26 v-nose with 8’ interior height. Rv style door with 6’ in front of it for a nice bathroom. Also upgraded axles and suspension for carrying heavy loads. My idea is very similar to the Forest river work and play. Except a heck of a lot cheaper and I can control the final build quality. Did you ever get around to adding windows?
I’ve been thinking about getting a cargo trailer but I was thinking about having a mini split installed on one of the walls and having the other section above the propane tanksInstead of having the AC installed on the roofI know that the mini splits are much quieter
I think that is absolutely the way to go if you can make it work. In my new video I compare my rooftop AC with my mini split installed in my studio if you’d be interested in seeing that. But spoiler alert: the mini split is just about impossible to beat in terms of efficiency and quietness. Thanks for the comment, Jeremy
Hey, @Throttle issues. I helped Ben with this build and we debated installing a mini-split for weeks. The hang up was, where to install the condensing unit???. On that particular trailer, there wasn't enough room to install it at the front. I was also concerned about the flare fittings leaking over time due to bumps on the road. In the end we went will the RV Style,
@@jacobwanninger9147 Thanks for the feedback. The flare fittings shouldn't be an issue. The same thing was used on big trucks for decades. I do understand the issue of finding a place for the condenser unit, and I would prefer the braided hoses rather than copper lines. Copper will work harden from vibration if the trailer sees a lot of miles.
The brand is WoW Cargo Trailers. They’re manufactured in Georgia and can be customized to an extent. They will also deliver to your house. My trailer is 16ft long(not counting the V nose), 7ft wide, and 7’6interior height after adding insulation. I paid a little bit extra to have it built with the higher ceiling and I believe that was definitely a good decision.
@ Jerry B. I love those Mini-Splits but we couldn't figure out a good place for the condensing unit. This particular trailer didn't have enough room at the trailer tongue to place it there. I've seen some trailer since then that has more space up there.
Why do you need a while room for a toilet? How long do you plan to spend on the toilet? I suggest using a portable folding stool toilet and bucket under it. I use a sheewee and found a folding stool at a thrift store for 1.00 and cut a hole in the seat. With a well placed bucket/,bag and some compost you can take care of business when and if you need to. You can make a portable handwashing station too. I used one made of 2 - 5 gal buckets, a.bow for a sink with drain installed,, marine boat foot pump, hose ....
