Carpenter Ant Treatment That Works 

You should not feel badly. people who can afford it are glad to pay someone else.

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Always nice to hear from a fellow pest controller. If you have or get a license, I can turn you on to a nice side hustle that can make you a lot of money. It's super easy and almost nobody is doing it. Just email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. No charge for the information. I am happy to share for free. I would do it myself, but I'm just too old now. It is so easy that you are going to wonder how you didn't think of it already. Sometimes I wish I was a younger man. Be well my friend.

People with money are VERY happy to pay that so they don't have to. it is a service. People without money and willing and able to do things themselves are glad for videos like this.,

AND THATS EXACTLY WHAT THEY DID TO ME. 25 SECONDS OF SPRAYING THE AIR IN THE CRAWL SPACE AND 9 BAITS LATER AT A COST OF 900.00. AWFUL CROOKS.

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Thanks for watching. Please let me know if you have any questions. Be well my friend.

You are very welcome. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help.

Thank you so much for those kind words. What a nice thing to say. Made my day.

I think so too.

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

What a nice thing to say. Thank you so much for the words of encouragement and support. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

As a scientist wouldn't you recommend minimizing the outdoor treatment? Don't you think it's a shame to kill "good" insects all around houses like honeybees that may pass the poison to others in the colony or to predators like birds?😢 I really appreciate Guy mentioning that boric acid and diatomaceous earth can be effective. Maybe Guy can do a follow up video that shows less expensive and more environmental methods for home owners willing to spend a little more time and who have homes that aren't severely infested. 🙏

​@@martymcflyer8487 I think pesticides are really misunderstood these days. Most people think of pesticides as the same products that we used in the 20th century. The truth is that those products are were all banned in the late 1990's. They don't make them anymore. We are almost 25% through the 21st century and we now have 21st century pesticides. This stuff has come a long way, and we no longer use your dad's pesticides. Modern day pesticides are safe enough for children to play on after they dry. Also, they stay where you put them, so they no longer end up in the storm sewers or contaminating lakes and streams. They are very environmentally friendly. Also, bees do not pollinate grass. It's true. Grass is pollinated by the wind. Bees almost exclusively pollinate flowering plants. Mostly flowers, but they are widely used in farming. So, as long as folks do not apply pesticides directly on their flowers or vegetable gardens, the bees are perfectly safe. Most people grown their own vegetables because they want them pesticide free anyway, so not much of a worry there. I did a video on the truth about pesticides, and I will give you a link to it. Borate products are not very helpful outside. You can have some success treating gardens with diatomaceous earth. You are correct that pesticides do not discriminate. Kind of like using antibiotics. You kill the good with the bad. The military would classify that as collateral damage. Not exactly what I like to do, but I don’t like living with the bad bugs, so I do what I need to do to stay pest free. I do agree that this is the downside of it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video explaining the truth about pesticides: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i7nLO6Js_3Q.html

Thank you for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Sorry it took so long to get back to you, but RU-vid did not show me this comment until today. They are really bad about that sometimes. Be well my friend.

Wow! That is the nicest review anyone has ever done for me. This kind of feedback makes doing these videos very gratifying. As you know, I do the videos for free and your kind words are worth more to me than anything I could ever gotten paid for doing them. I wish you well Nancy. May 2021 be a great year for you. Please always feel free to ask questions and please pass this information along to anyone who you think can use it.

Thank you so much for those kind words. I love doing it. Always my pleasure to help. Be well Dave.

@@GuysPestSolutions Just to clarify, regarding the INTERIOR I need: (1) "D-Fense" Dust (2) Sweet bait: "Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel" (3) Protein bait: "Advance Carpenter Ant Bait" (granular) (4) "Termidor" foam

@@BeckVMH That is correct. There are links to all the products in the description. Be well my friend.

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Thank you for those kind words. Every time I do a video I am mindful that a lot of folks like their videos really short and I am always torn between providing a comprehensive explanation that will make the viewer fully competent to carry out the task safely and effectively or cutting out a lot of information so more folks will watch it. It is very hard to pass along years of experience and training in five minutes, so I have now just accepted that it's okay for those who do not want to spend the time learning how to do it right to go elsewhere and I kind of hope, for their sake, that they will return to watch the correct way to do it after they fail. The reason is that I just don't have it in me to do anything less than doing my best to provide all the information everyone needs to get the job done correctly, even if I do sometimes spend more time explaining things than some folks prefer. The good news is that not one person that has watched any of my videos ever wrote back to tell me it didn't work. Well, there was one guy that said my termite treatment didn't work, but after working with him for awhile it became clear that he didn't have termites at all. He had carpenter ants and was treating for the wrong pest. That's when I did the video on Termites vs Carpenter Ants. That experience taught me that not everyone can identify the target pest correctly and so I am now spending more time making sure that folks know what they are looking at. Anyway, I appreciate that you watched the entire video and I can assure you that, if follow the directions correctly, your carpenter ants will be gone. Be well my friend.

Thank you so much. I appreciate that.

You are very welcome. You have a great channel name. Love it. Thanks for those kind words.

That is so kind of you to say. Greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help.

I am so sorry that it took that long. I wish you would have told me that you were having problems after a couple of months. I could have given you a way to boost the process. I only offer it for really serious cases because it is more expensive and time consuming to do, and usually isn't needed. So sorry about that. The good news is that you got it done. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you are ever having a problem with one of the procedures that I am recommending. Oftentimes I have a trick or two up my sleeve to move things along a bit faster. I am so happy that you got the problem resolved. Thank you so much for sharing. Be well my friend.

Yes. That will work to kill the ants outside the building. However, it will do nothing to kill off an existing satellite colony that is inside the house. You may or may not have a satellite colony inside the building. If you do, then you must treat it from inside the house. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions If you use something like Termidor on perimeter wouldnt they bring that inside to the colony?

@@gaprofitt No. The colony inside the house is just a satellite colony. The main colony is outside somewhere. The ants do not travel from the main colony to the satellite colony on a routine basis. The ants from the main colony will visit at come point, but probably not enough to kill off either colony. They are not like termites that must return to a colony fairly often. So, with carpenter ants you need to kill the satellite colony inside the house and then put up a protective barrier to prevent the main colony ants from reinfesting the home. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Congratulations. Well done. I am so happy that it worked out for you and I appreciate the feedback. Most people never get back to me with the outcome, so I figure that it must have worked or I would definitely be hearing from them. Since you are pleased with the outcome, please pay it forward and show a kindness to others by sharing this channel with others who may also need to save some money on pest control. Be well my friend and, again, thanks for sharing the outcome.

Thank you so much for those kind words. If you would like to save some money, you can use Bifen IT instead of Talstar P. It's the same product, but a bit less expensive. I will give you a link for it. There is a slight odor to it, but not bad. Great for outside use only. Be well my friend. Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide If you cannot get the Bifen IT from Solutions Pest and Lawn, then try domyown.com: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662

Carpenter ants like soft, wet wood, so you should check your house for leaks and areas of high humidity. Insufficient venting can cause damp wood in the attic what the crawl space. You should always start by repairing this sort of problem. Most likely, you have a satellite colony in your home, and the main colony is located outside the house someplace. There's a pretty good chance that the main colony is in one of those stumps or rotted trees. Just follow the directions in the video to treat the house and then spray all day stumps and rotted trees with Taurus SC. Since you live in New York, you are not going to be able to buy any of the products you need to do the job right, and nobody will ship them to you. New York has the most restrictive pesticide laws in the country. I honestly think that New York is having some sort of competition with California to see who can come up with the stupidest pesticide laws. Anyway, to obtain the pesticides you need, you will need to go out of state. New Jersey is nowhere near as insane as New York when it comes to pesticides, so you can get pretty much anything shipped there. If you know somebody that lives in New Jersey, you can get the pesticide shipped to them. If you do not know anybody in New Jersey, you can rent a box from a UPS store for a month and they will accept packages for you. After your shipment arrives, just go pick it up. I know that New York is a big state and when you say "upsate" that can mean a lot of things. If you live around the Albany area, then it's not such a bad drive to New Jersey. However, if you live someplace like Buffalo, that is an entirely different matter. There are other states were you can do this that may be closer to you, but you should know that Connecticut and Vermont also have restrictive laws. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks for the recommendation, but Jersey is quite a distance as I live near Utica, NY. I will have to get creative!

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Thank you for those kind words. Very appreciated.

That is so kind of you to say. Your comment gave me a much needed lift today. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.

If you would like to get rid of the ants once and for all, you can go nuclear on them. It costs more, but it will end the problem. This is the way I do it because, not only does it end the ant problem, but it stops every other pest imaginable from entering my house. If this would be of interest to you, then just email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Just tell me that you want my nuclear option for treating ants. I do not share this information publicly. Just so you know, an average size property costs about $15 a month to treat and you need to do it every 60 days. So, each treatment costs about $30 or so, depending upon how much area you need to treat. My property takes about two hours to do. I used to be a lot faster at it, but I'm 73 and I have slowed down a bit over the years. This treatment ends ants, spiders, American roaches, mosquitoes, wasps, and virtually everything that can get in your house from the outside. It even reduces or eliminates things like snakes over time. I used to have a lot of snakes on my property. I have not seen one for the past couple of years. When you kill all the bugs, you break the food chain, and the larger critters eventually just move on to another area. You can't help but love that. Just let me know if you want the secret. Be well my friend.

What a kind comment. It's nice to be appreciated. Thank you so much. Be well my friend.

Wow. That's a great price for a 15 gallon sprayer. I'll bet it comes with a really long hose too, which makes things a lot easier. I will check out Harbor Freight and have a look at it. Thanks for letting me know. Be well my friend.

Most of the time there are two reasons why you have carpenter ants in the first place. As you mentioned, you have wet wood. Carpenter ants love soft, wet wood. So, if you have carpenter ants, there is a good chance that you have water coming in from the outside, you have a leaky pipe, or high humidity in an area, like a crawlspace or attic, that has not been properly vented. The other reason I see carpenter ants is if you also have termites. Carpenter ants love to eat termites. Not only do they provide a great food source, but they conveniently do a lot of the tunneling through the wood, which is a big time saver for the ants. You are also correct that most of the time the ants in your home are a sub-colony. The main colony is usually in a dead tree or something outside. The thing is though that it can take months before ants in the main colony outside decide to visit the sub-colony inside. So, just when you think you've got the problem solved, you start to see carpenter ants again. That is the reason you need to do the exterior treatment every three months. Don't rely on killing off the colonies outside. While you may think you eliminated all the colonies, you may have missed one or you may not have killed off the queens. If a queen survives, then the colony will re-establish and these ladies (They are almost all female) are likely going to visit you again. Doing the exterior treatment every three months is important. It sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it already, so keep up the good work. My only other advice is not to use so much of the homemade bait. Ants don't eat that much and it's safer to use less. Try using something more the size of a penny or maybe even smaller than that. It's better to place these around different areas of the house where you are seeing activity, rather than just baiting one area. If you limit the size of the bait stations, then they will not be very hazardous to ingest and will present much less risk to people and pets. You can also purchase tamperproof bait stations inexpensively that will make it much safer. I prefer to use gel baits because it sticks to surfaces, so pets and kids cannot get it off. Also, it's very safe and a child or pet would need to ingest a lot of it to get sick. You would never use anywhere near enough of it for that to be of a concern. Just keep the tubes out of the reach of children. The homemade stuff is way cheaper though and it usually works okay. Either way, baiting is a very good idea. Good luck with finishing these things off. I suspect that they do not stand a chance against you. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for giving me such detailed advice! I really appreciate your time, kindness and expertise...may it all come back to you ten fold!

@@sptrsttradr4918 Thank you so much for those kind words. Always my pleasure to assist in anyway possible. I am always here to help, so feel free to contact me at anytime for any pest that may be of concern. Be well my friend.

You are very welcome. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated.

Thank you so much Nancy for those kind words. Please do not hesitate to ask questions. I am always here to help. Good luck with it and don't worry. You can do this. Thanks for watching and thanks for subscribing.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you Guy, I could use some advice. My cottage is almost 100 years old. It is only 550 square feet. Half of it has a very small attic space the other half is a flat roof. I had a new roof put on a week ago. The old one did not leak, it was just time to do it before hurricane season. I now have FL carpenter ants making two small holes in the wall above the fireplace and coming in where the ceiling fan is attached in the bedroom, where the small attic space is. I have vacation renters in there who have decided they want to stay anyway. I have sprayed with Phantom and broadcast Advance bait in the attic. Also put Maxforce Quantum gel in the holes. It has been raining so I can’t spray the outside perimeter with the fipronil. I have ordered dust and Termidor foam from DIY. The ants are probably sealed in the wall due to the new roof. Any advice other than what you have shown in the video? I am worried about the inside of the wall most of all. Thank you!

how did you locate them where they are?

@@nancyeaton731 If you are sure that these are Florida carpenter ants, then you don't have much to worry about. Florida carpenter ants are mostly red with a black thorax. So, if these girls are red heads, then they are most likely Florida carpenter ants. They are all female by the way. Anyway, Florida carpenter ants generally do not tunnel through wood like their black cousins. They have the ability to do it, but typically they will only tunnel through wet wood and they prefer to just hang out in the wall or ceiling voids. It is very common to see them in the ceiling voids and above soffits. Most of the time they do little or no damage at all, but they are a nuisance and they do bite if they feel threatened. The exterior treatment is very important because these gals can often come in and out of the building to forage for food, so you want to do an exterior treatment with Taurus SC as soon as you get a nice day. Flat roofs are often poorly ventilated and can be somewhat damp between the ceiling and the roof underlayment, making this the perfect place for them. If it is so damp that the wood begins to rot or degrade, then the ants very well may tunnel through it. If this is the case though, then the roof structure should be repaired and the ventilation should be improved. Hopefully, the folks who did the roof inspected for this. Anyway, the bottom line is to do everything I show in the video and you should end the problem fairly quickly. Meanwhile, the chances are that they are not doing much damage, so while this is certainly something that you need to deal with, it's nothing to panic about. I hope I understood and answered your question adequately. Please let me know if I misunderstood the question or if I did not provide all the information you need. Thanks.

@@veradowns2736 Locating them can be somewhat tricky, but if you see dead bodies near the walls, then you know that they are not far. They tend to forage for food at night and if you watch you may see where they are active. That being said, they are often colonizing in the ground and just have satellite colonies in your home. So, it is not easy to find where they are. That's why you really need to just treat the entire home, inside and out. I know it sounds like a daunting task, but it really does not take as long you may think and it's the only sure way to get rid of them. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

Also- I live in the state of Indiana

Cannot buy the Taurus SC in Indiana.

You are correct that nobody is going to ship fipronil to Indiana. Still, you may be able to find somebody, like Amazon, that will ship the granules to you. The good news is that the only kind of termites you have in Indiana are very easy to treat, and the granules will work for them about 95% of the time. About the only time the granules do not work is if the soil around your house is so dense that the granules will not leach into the ground. To find out if this is the case, you can do a perk test. Just dig a very shallow hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and the width of the shovel. In other words, about a shovel full of dirt. Just fill the hole with water and see if it leaches down into the ground. If it does, then the granules should work for you. However, if the water just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good option. If the granules are not a good option, and since you cannot get fipronil, then a good alternative would be to trench the house and use Prime Source Imidacloprid 2F Select T/I . As far as I know, domyown.com will ship that to Indiana. This product uses the same active ingredient that is in the granules. If you trench and use this product, it will last just as long as using fipronil. I'm not sure if you watched my video on how to trench, so I will give you a link to it, just in case you didn't see it. Carpenter ants are very common, but not all that hard to get rid of. I will give you a link to that video as well. A little-known fact about carpenter ants is that you may find them at the same time you find termites. The reason for that is because carpenter ants are a fairly lazy lot. Most of the time, they will only tunnel through soft, wet wood, but when they find a termite infestation, that not only provides them with premade tunnels, but also a nice, tasty food source. You see, carpenter ants do not eat wood the way termites do, so they must forage for food. So, termites solve two problems for them at the same time. They offer a food source and readymade tunnels, that do not require a lot more excavation to make the carpenter ants happy. I know this is hard to believe, but there are pest controllers out there that do not know this about carpenter ants and termites. I have seen it happen before where pest controllers find the termites and treat for them, but they totally missed the carpenter ants. When you are a hammer, everything tends to look like a nail. The national companies will often train people to just specialize in termites and no other pests, because that is their bread and butter. So, if all you do every single day is termites, you may miss a carpenter ant infestation. I think the local, family-owned businesses, are less likely to make this mistake. I do think it is a good idea to get the inspection done. Just be aware that pest controllers are not infallible. That is one of the reasons why I suggest getting more than one inspection done. If you are thinking about hiring a pest controller, then please watch my video on how to hire one without getting ripped off. That video may save you a lot of money. Finally, if you removed the drywall, then you should treat all the studs and all the surfaces between the studs, as well as all the floor joists, ceiling joists, and the surfaces in between them, with Bora-Care. I recommend mixing it one to one with water. The label says that you can mix it one to five, but one to one works way better. This will totally make your house termite proof and carpenter ant proof as well. It would also be a good idea to treat the roof rafters as well. I will give you a link for the product and a link for a video on how to use it. This product is very safe to use, and it virtually lasts forever. I hope that helps. Be well Amanda. Video on how to trench for termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Video on how to treat carpenter ants: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Te9BUCaIQZY.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y-a8XOqVrlE.html Video on how to apply Bora-Care: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rmr_aEodyhg.html Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k1_1_7&amp=&crid=11YH17KBHKZE9&amp=&sprefix=termite Prime Source Imidacloprid 2F Select T/I: www.domyown.com/prime-source-imidacloprid-2f-ti-p-12208.html?sub_id=12209

Thank you so much! I've watched several of your videos. I sure I can do this myself. I got everything u suggested for termites and carpenter ants. I'm going to that the outside of my house with what you have suggested and use the bora spray on my studs, attic, and craw space.

@@amandasage5001 Good for you. You are correct. You can definitely do this. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I'm always here to help. Be well Amanda.

Thank you so much for watching my videos. You are the first person to ask me about acrobat ants. I suppose that is because they are usually an outside pest and they do not usually invade homes. It does happen though. Most of the time, if you see acrobat ants, then there is a good chance that you may have a water leak someplace. They prefer to infest very wet wood that has already been damaged by water. That is why you often see them around windows and doors that have not been caulked properly. Since they usually hang out on trees, if you have any trees that are touching the house, then that is a convenient place for them to enter. Also, you may find these guys occupying tunnels that were already created by either carpenter ants or termites. Acrobat ants are fairly easy to spot because they usually have obvious ant trails. So, if you can, follow the ant trails to see where the colony is located. If you find the colony, then you can treat it by injecting a fipronil foam. You can also inject the foam into all cracks and crevices around the areas where you think the colony is located. If the colony is not accessible, then you can spray over the top of it with a non-repellent pesticide. This would be the case for both inside and outside your home. After you treat the inside of the home, then look for these guys outside and treat them there as well. If you see them on trees, fences, and so forth, then treat them with Phantom Termiticide Insecticide. Just lightly spray right over the top of the ant trails. The ants will not recognize this as a poison and they will happily take it back to the colony with them and share it with the other ants. You can do the same thing on the inside of your home as well. Just lightly spray this product directly over the ant trails. You can also follow up with a bait. Never apply a pesticide over the top of a bait. You always want to use the bait last. I recommend using Ant-Trax. Just apply small dots of it along the ant trails about 4 inches apart. Keep in mind that this process can take a couple of weeks to work. If the ants are getting into something or are located in an area where you need them gone immediately, then use Temprid FX, instead of the Phantom for the interior treatment only. Just follow the label directions for the appropriate dilution rates. Please let me know if Solutions Pest and Lawn will not ship to you and I will give you another supplier. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Phantom: www.solutionsstores.com/phantom-insecticide-chlorfenapyr Temprid FX: www.solutionsstores.com/temprid-fx Ant-Trax: www.solutionsstores.com/ant-trax-ant-bait

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Wow! Color me impressed. Thank you so much for your faith in me. Please let me know if you have any questions and I will do my very best not to let you down.

You are very welcome Mary. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching.

Thank you so much for those kind words. I see you are working on a channel of your own. I checked it out and I subscribed. You have a very nice, easy presentation style. Well done.

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Thank you so much for that comment. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.

Thank you for those kind words. It's always nice to get feedback about how people made out with this stuff. Greatly appreciated.

New York is the most restrictive state when it comes to pesticides. There is no logical reason for that, but it is what it is. The good news is that I can help you with that, but you need to email me to get the information. I would rather not share it here. My email address is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. There is almost always a workaround. Please remind me of the problem when you email me. Just let me know that you are the person with ants in New York. Be well my friend.

Thanks for watching Mecka and thanks for those kind words. Please let me know if you have any questions. I am always here to help. By the way, I love your first name. I never heard that one before. I really like it. Be well.

Thanks Guy, I wondering if we use the dust, the sweet bait and one of the sprays for outside the home will be enough to kill the carpenter ants on the property? My mother's home is up off of the ground about 4 feet. Also, There's an old oak tree on the property that is falling apart and I'm wondering if that's what attracted the ants initially? I'm sure there must be a nest in that tree as there is a large pile of frass on one side. I wrote down all of your instructions from the video except I'm not sure how often to treat the interior of the home once we get rid of these carpenter ants? Thanks again Guy!

@@Wisdomseeker_777 Great questions. The problem with using dust on the exterior is both weather and finding all the entry points. You can puff it into cracks and crevices, but I don't think it works as well as just using a liquid application because it is very hard to find all the cracks and crevices in the entire building. I mean, you are talking about any cracks in the eves where wood comes together, around windows, doors, pipe penetrations, and so forth. You need to treat them all and any sun or dampness can have a negative effect on them. So, it's a time consuming process and you need to be very thorough. It's way easier to just spray the eves, around windows, doors, penetrations, etc. I have used baits outside, but the problem is that you need to place the bait where the problem is and it is often difficult to pinpoint all the entry points. It's okay if you see an ant trail outside to use a bait, but you would need to replace the bait every day because of the weather. Sun and rain will ruin it. Also, ants like their bait fresh. So, using dusts and baits outside isn't all that practical. Again, it's way easier and more effective to simply spray the exterior with Taurus SC. If the house is high up, you can buy a sprayer that has an extension available to allow you to reach high places. I will place links below for a sprayer and the wand. The only company I know of that makes an extension wand is PetraTools, so it's best to buy one of their sprayers. I was able to retrofit the wand to my existing sprayer that was not made by PetraToos, but you need to be somewhat mechanical to do that sort of thing. The simplest thing to do is just use their brand, albeit somewhat more expensive. You are probably correct that the problem you are having with carpenter ants is associated with that oak tree. Carpenter ants in the home are almost always satellite colonies and the main colony is almost always in a dead tree stump or something near the home. The best way to treat the tree is to shoot fipronil foam into any kick out holes you see in the tree as far up as you can reach. Shoot it in each hole for about five seconds. I will place a link below for the product. Next, spray the tree all the way around the trunk, from the ground up as far as you can reach, with Taurus SC. Also, spray the Taurus SC around the tree on the ground from the trunk out about two feet and make it really wet, so the ground is nice an soaked. Carpenter ants do not eat wood like termites do. They just tunnel through it. So, they must forage for food and there typically is not enough food in the tree to support them, so they venture out from the tree to find food. When they do, they will cross this barrier that you place on and around the tree. Also, the fipronil foam that you shot into the tree will expand into the tunnels and they will have no choice but to walk through it. Fipronil is a slow acting poison that the ants cannot detect, so they will carry it to the queen and she will die in a few days. Then the entire colony will die as well. Keep in mind that this tree is probably not the only place there are carpenter ants, so when the fipronil is no longer effective in 30 to 90 days, then carpenter ants from another tree may re-infest the one you treated. This is why you must do the exterior treatment on the house every three months. Even if you cut the tree down and get rid of the stump, ants from another colony are likely to invade your home at some point in the future. Once the infestation inside the house is eliminated, you will never need to retreat, as long as you do the exterior treatment every three months. It's always better to prevent carpenter ants from entering the home in the first place, rather than try to deal with them after they establish a satellite colony inside the home. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question. Please feel free to ask me anything you like. Sprayer (Any PetraTools sprayer will work): www.amazon.com/Petra-3-Gallon-Battery-Powered-Backpack/dp/B08B3MKYWD/ref=psdc_492090011_t2_B07W6KS4RJ Extension wand: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086L5YQH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Taurus SC: www.solutionsstores.com/taurus-sc-termiticide

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer me, I appreciate it. I wasn't clear in my phrasing, what I meant in my question was 'would treating inside of the home with dust & sweet bait along with outdoor sprays (both), do the trick?

Initially I was asking about just one spray outside, but I'm beginning to think in this instance we should use everything you've mentioned, just to be safe. Thanks again Guy!

Can you send me a photo of one of them? You can send it to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please copy and paste this question in your email. Get as close to the ant as you can and keep the photo well in focus. I will send you a link to a short video on how to get a good close-up photo. Also, please tell me exactly how you treated. Did you do everything in the video? I would also like to know if this is happening all over the house or in just one or two rooms. Finally, please tell me where you live. Geographical area matters. Don't worry. We will get to the bottom of it and get it resolved. It sounds like these are swarmers that are dying, but let's make sure of what is really going on. I don't want to give you bad advice. Be well my friend. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lMEtK6GoiFY.html

The products are all safe enough for kids to play on after they dry, but you should wear PPE when applying them. That includes eye protection, rubber gloves, and a respirator. When spraying outside you should also wear a hat and a long sleeve shirt is a good idea. I routinely get hit with the overspray and it has not caused any ill effect, but you should take a shower and wash your clothes after you are finished. This stuff is really no more hazardous than common laundry detergent, but you wouldn't want that on your skin or in your eyes either, and you certainly would not want to breath in a spray from it. So, just be as careful as you can, but don't worry if you get some of the diluted product on yourself. Just take a shower and you will be just fine. I have even gotten the overspray in my eyes a couple of times when I forgot to put my goggles on. It didn't even sting. I just kept working and my eyes are fine. I would be very careful with the concentrate though. If you get that on your skin, then wash it off immediately with soap and water and do not get that in your eyes. So, this is nothing to be afraid of. Just give it the same respect as you would if you were spray painting with rubber gloves on. I hope that helps. Be well Nancy.

Thank you for those kind words. It is greatly appreciated. I am delighted that you are of the same mind. I heard it said once that, "The only things you can possess forever are the things you give away. Of these, the most valuable are your time and your love." Be well my friend and good luck with your treatment. You can do this. Thanks for watching.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you. All the things should get here in 3-6 days. Meanwhile, I put out the borax and sugar syrup on waffles in bait stations and I'll also put out EcoLogic insect killer. It is a bait as well. I listened to my exterior wall and can hear the crunching. I'll also stay up tonight and look for night activity I didn't know they footage for food at night. I see them love all day outside and once on a while inside.. Last night there was one in my new bathroom when I got up to relieve myself. They must be destroying my home...

@@marielynn3802 I didn't know that EcoLogic made a bait, so I don't know how well it works. Most baits are generally pretty good though. Try not to worry too much. Carpenter ants do not eat wood like termites do. They just tunnel through it, so the damage can take some time to become serious. If you are hearing them in the wall though, at least you know a good place to start treating. If you do all the treatments in the video, then this will be a very short lived problem and you will have control of it a few days after treatment. So, my guess is that your home is not quite as destroyed as you may think.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you, but I used some kind of killer or bait last year with no good results. The good news is that my order is on its way and I'll watch your video for a third time and apply exactly as you say. Looking forward to seeing NO ANTS moving around my house soon. I went out last night and saw WAY TOO MANY!!! Couldn't sleep last night after seeing them at night. Makes my skin crawl! Also, we cut down a 42 year old Sequoia about 40 feet from our house a few years ago, so I'm thinking the main nest is in that huge stump.

@@marielynn3802 These gals really do come out at night, don't they? They are all females. It is very creepy and these things can bite. It's not like a wasp sting that hurts for a long time, because there is no venom, but it does hurt for a few seconds. It's kind of like getting jabbed hard with a sewing needle. It hurts a lot for a few seconds and then the pain passes quickly. Generally, they only bite when threatened. They are not typically aggressive, so they don't come after you thinking that you are a food source the way some ants can do. Still, you need them gone and this treatment plan will definitely get the job done. You may well be correct that you have these things in that tree stump. Dead tree stumps are an invitation for termites and carpenter ants. By the way, I'm not saying this is the case with you, but carpenter ants like to eat termites and it is not unusual to find both at the same time in a home. You would be wise to inspect for termites. You probably don't have them, but it's worth having a look. Just look around the entire building for mud tubes going from the ground to the wood. You can also find mud tubes in basements and crawlspaces. I can't tell you how many times I have seen carpenter ants infest a building just so they could dine out on termites that are also infesting the building. Also, it makes sense to do a preventative termite treatment every year and it only costs between $50 to $100, depending upon the size of your home. I will place a link below for my video on it. This is a quick, easy, and cheap way to ensure that you never have subterranean termites. It's so easy that a child could do it in about an hour. Just thought you should know. DIY Termite Treatment: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html

I can't thank you enough for all I've learned from your video's and responding to my email. The exterminator confirmed what I thought was dry termites in our mountain home is carpenter ants. We live in Florida also.

@@kellymac76 That is so kind of you to say. Thank you so much. Very much appreciated. Be well Kelly.

Carpenter ants around windows is a very common problem. My guess is that you have a colony somewhere near the window. You didn't mention where you live or what type of carpenter ant you have, but it can make a difference on how much damage these ants can cause and the location of the colony. If you are only seeing them on a second story window, then it is possible that they could be in the attic, but they may just be in the wall where the window is located. Now, I know that you are not seeing any outside, but I can assure you that they did enter from the exterior of the home. Now that they are in, they probably established a colony inside the wall or the attic. So, you do need to treat the exterior of the home and it is important to treat the eves and around all windows and doors. I know that treating the eves on a two story home is not easy, but you need to do it. Also, be sure to caulk around the windows. Next, I would take a somewhat conservative approach to the inside treatment. Since you are only seeing them at one location, I would dust all outlets on that one wall only, as I show in my video. Next I would use just the baits in the window sill. Be sure to use both a protein bait and a sweet bait. Carpenter ants do not eat wood like termites do, so they need a food source. So, give them one. Also, they like their bait fresh, so use small amounts of bait every day. The reason you are not seeing them is most likely because they like to feed at night. If they are not eating the food in your home, then they must be getting it outside the home. All living things need food and water. Ants are no exception. There is a good chance that there is a path/trail that they are using to come and go and that is another reason whey the exterior treatment is important. So, if you do the exterior treatment and you only dust in the outlets and bait in the window, then your dogs will be perfectly safe. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks Guy for the quick response! I live in Indiana, and the ants are large and black. I found a dead winged one today in the windowsill. I did go up into the attic to look for any signs of the ants there, however I have a second furnace in the attic with a lot of duct work and a lot of blown installation, and I wasn't comfortable trying to get to where that window was without risking a mistep. I will treat as you mention in your message and let you know how it goes. I appreciate your consideration for my dogs as well. Thank you again for taking the time to respond!

@@Mo-up8hv No problem. I am always happy to help. Unfortunately, you do have the kind of carpenter ants that tunnel through wood. If you go in the attic, look for tiny holes in the wood and what looks a little like sawdust under the holes on the floor or insulation. It's called frass and if you see those tiny holes and the frass, then you can treat by shoot fipronil foam into the holes to help get control. You can also treat the wood with Bora-Care if you find carpenter ants in the attic. Please do let me know how it goes.

Thank you for saying that. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Before I get into answering your questions, would you by any chance happen to live in Florida or a neighboring state? If so, then I suggest that you take a look at one of the ants and see what color it is. The treatment will be the same, but if these guys turn out to be Florida carpenter ants, then they are most likely not causing any damage to your home. The reason I am curious is because of the behavior that you are describing. Most Carpenter ants are solid black, but Florida carpenter ants have a reddish/orange colored head and thorax, with a black abdomen. I think it's always a good idea to fill in any cracks or crevices around the house, regardless of where you find them. There is no need to wait until you finish the treatment to perform this function. Always start with the interior treatment before doing the exterior treatment, but you can caulk first if you like. The timing of the caulking should not make much difference. Most of the time, the infestation that you have in your house is a sub colony. The main colony is almost always located somewhere outside of your house in some sort of a wood source, such as a dead stump or other type of wood that is just laying around waiting for them to occupy it. That is why it is important to kill off that sub colony in your home and then treat the outside of your house every three months to ensure that you do not get reinvested. There is no need to try to locate that sub colony. Just go ahead and do the treatment as I outlined in the video and that should take care of the problem for you. It is important not to skip any of the steps because they are all there for a specific reason. Since the main colony is most likely outside of your house, then it is probably a good idea to see if you can locate that colony. The thing is though that there may be several colonies within striking distance of your house. Just because you find one of those main colonies does not mean that you found them all. So, while it is a good idea to kill off those main colonies if you can, you still need to do the treatment around your house every three months. I hope that helps. Be well Paula.

@@GuysPestSolutions Hi there, it turns out the ants we see on the house are not solid black. We live in South Texas. These ants have red or orange head, middle part, and black tail part. I have found them colonized in a tree in the front yard. I used the protein bait to see what the response would be ahead of doing the house. They loved it! The next day, very little activty. The surprise was finding larger solid black ants in my yard also attracted to the bait. I followed those and found one going into a piece of wood and saw the "pile of shavings" by the log, and then another place in the front yard where I lost them in the grass but the trail was definite and followed by several of them to the same place. I have not seen these black ones on my house or in it. There is a dead tree in the backyard, but it has zero activity every time I check it. We plan to remove it. Fences have zero activity. Question: Why don't you use baits outside and use the Taurus SC and other spray instead?

@@paulashoo I absolutely love your curiosity. Most people couldn't care less about what kind of ant they are looking at or why a particular treatment is done. All they want to know is how to get rid of the problem as quickly as possible and be done with it. It's nice when somebody gets curious about why things happen and how stuff works. The problem is though, while I am happy to answer these questions, you need to be prepared for a long read. It is difficult to know what kind of ants you are looking at that has a red head, red thorax, and black abdomen. However, just based on the description and where you are finding them, it is possible that they are deceptive carpenter ants. This species has been known to build colonies inside homes. The good news is that these colonies tend to be rather small. Keep in mind though that this is just a guess. Ants can be a little fussy when it comes to baits. It is important to understand that, most of the time, these guys live outside and so they do not have access to a lot of sweet foods. So, the vast majority of the time, they feed on other insects, which are protein based. Even though they do not have access to a lot of sweet food, just like many of us, they do prefer the junk food. Also, just like many of us, it would appear that some of them prefer to eat healthy and they avoid that sweet food. What I have found is, most of the time, they do prefer the sweet baits. However, that is not always the case, which is why I always tell people to use both a sweet bait and a protein bait. You can certainly use baits outside and it is done all the time. However, I prefer to go with a non-repellent pesticide for exterior use. The reason for that is weather. Baits quickly deteriorate and lose their effectiveness when exposed to weather conditions, such as rain, excessive heat, and so forth. Too much rain can also just wash them away. The vast majority of the time, when I am treating for ants outside, I know where they live. Therefore, it is way easier just to apply some Taurus SC that they cannot avoid crossing. Since this is a non-repellent pesticide, they do not know that it is a poison, and they will happily walk right over it and bring it back to the colony with them. They spread it around to the other ants and then it's lights out for that entire colony. So, you have to ask yourself, "Why don't we just do this inside the house as well?" The difference is that, in your home, we probably do not know where the colony is located. We could certainly go ahead and apply a non-repellent pesticide, and oftentimes we do that, but we prefer to use a bait because the ants are actually going to eat it, instead of just getting it on their feet. Baiting it's more effective indoors because we do not have the weather to deal with. Also, we prefer not to use pesticides inside the house whenever possible. Even though they are safe, most of the time, the labels limit their use to mostly crack and crevice treatments. We do use them as surface sprays anyway, but we do try to comply with the label to the greatest extent possible, while still getting rid of the target pest. Often times, I will use both a pesticide and a bait at the same time. You have to be careful though that you use a pesticide that is labeled for indoor use, and you always have to put the pesticide down first before the bait. Taurus SC cannot be used inside, but there are other non-repellent pesticides that can be used inside. If all of this is sounding a bit complicated to you, then you can understand why I typically just tell people to bait on the inside of the house and use a pesticide on the outside. Like I said earlier, most people like to just cut to the chase, without a whole lot of explanation about why they're doing it. In the absence of all of this knowledge, the easiest way for me to explain to people how to achieve the results they want is to simply go with baiting inside and pesticides outside. If you're going to go with pesticide use inside, then there is a little bit more training that is required, so that you know exactly where and how to use it. For carpenter ants, I do tell people to use a dust because that is a pretty straight forward an easy-to-understand procedure. I can tell people exactly where to apply it and it eliminates the need to determine if the treatment area is appropriate for a pesticide. As you can see, this explanation has already gotten somewhat lengthy, and I haven't even gotten into how you would actually apply a pesticide inside your house to treat ants. Using these materials inside your home requires judgment that only comes with the proper training and field experience to know where and how to do it, without causing any harm. Of course, most people can get by if they just follow label directions, but most people I know do not take the time to read through all that information on the label. Also, a lot of the time, the labels can be somewhat confusing. For all these reasons, it's just a lot simpler to go with use of bait for the inside and a pesticide for the outside. If baiting on the inside does not get the job done, then I will work with individual subscribers and I give them the personal attention that they need to apply pesticides inside their homes in an effective and safe manner. I hope that helps. Be well Paula.

You know Jason, I think you are right. I probably should place links in the description for the products mentioned and I am going to try and get that done today. So, give me a couple of hours and check back. After I make the changes to the description, RU-vid can take a couple of hours to do the update. Sometimes they get it done really fast and sometimes not so much. I don't know why. Anyway, I will get right on it so that you don't need to go back through the video. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Jason, I just finished making the changes. Hopefully they will appear in the description soon. Thanks for the suggestion. Much appreciated.

Thank you so much for that comment. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.

No. The termite granules are not effective against carpenter ants because termites travel under ground and carpenter ants travel above ground. The granules melt and seep into the ground, so the ants will not be affected by it. At least, not for long. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

The products are safe for children and pets to play on after they dry. Just keep the dogs inside while you are applying the products. After everything dries it will be perfectly safe for the dogs. Drying time is usually within 2 hours. If you have areas on your home that are high up, you can also use Bifen XTS. It works like Talstar P, but you can use it in a hose end sprayer that will shoot the pesticide up to 25 feet above the ground, depending upon water pressure. I have a video on how to do it. The part of the video that shows how to use the hose end sprayer is near to the end of the video. The first part of the video shows how to treat the exterior of your house with Bifen IT and a tank sprayer. Bifen IT is just a less expensive version of Talstar P. It works the exact same way. Using a Bifen XTS with a hose end sprayer saves you from using a ladder when treating areas that are too high up. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your house with Bifen products: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html

Hi Kathy. I get this question a lot. These pesticides are perfectly safe for people and pets after they are dry. Just keep the pets inside while you are treating and be sure to wear the protective equipment when applying the products. The products dry quickly and generally you can let the pets out again about a half hour after treatment. I hope that helps.

Ok Thank you 😊

Thank you so much for those kind words. I have received a number of comments from people all over the world and they all tell me that this product is not available. I checked and it is only available in the US. That makes it really hard for you. I am planning to contact Bayer and see if they can start exporting this product to other countries. Also, I am considering another video for those of you who cannot access this product. I just need to figure out an easy and cost effective way that everyone in the world can use. I'm working on it. Thanks again for those kind words and thanks for watching.

Thank you for those kind words. Here's the thing about carpenter ants in wooded areas… They are actually there to serve a very important purpose. That is to say, they are part of the sanitation system of nature. Carpenter ants typically do not mess with healthy trees. Most of the time you will see them in dead stumps, limbs laying around, or even the dead parts of living trees. That's because their job is to help get rid of this dead wood. While they do not eat wood the same way termites do, they do tunnel through it and reduce it to something resembling sawdust. So, you really don't want to get rid of the carpenter ants that are busy doing their job in wooded areas. At the same time, you certainly do not want them attacking your home either. That is why I regard them the same way I do all other living things. As long as something does not regard me as food or does not invade my personal living space, then, as far as I am concerned, I am more than happy if they live out their lives in peace. However, should they decide to invade my home in any way or they decide that I am a tasty meal for them, then they need to die. So, as long as the carpenter ants remain outside in the wooded areas, then I am perfectly happy with them living out their lives without any problems from me. I would recommend that you adopt that same type of strategy. Of course, you could do things like place all sorts of bait around that wooded area or you could apply massive amounts of pesticide, but those sorts of measures are really unnecessary and serve no purpose other than to interrupt the natural workings of nature. If you are seeing carpenter ants that are traveling up and down living pine trees, there is really nothing to worry about. These guys only like nice, soft, dead wood. So, they are just tunneling their way through the parts of the tree that are already dead and it is unlikely that they will do no harm to a living tree. I hope that answers your question. Be well my friend.

Bora-Care is a wonderful product that will permanently protect any unfinished wood on which it is applied. I highly recommend it. It works for all wood destroying pests. So, this can be a great solution for a garage. FiPro is a fipronil foam that does a great job going into ant tunnels. If you know where the tunnels are, then you can drill holes every 4 inches apart and shoot in the foam for about 5 seconds, or until it comes back out at you or the other holes you drilled. This will effectively take out the ant colony. I will give you links to both products and a video on how to use Bora-Care. Keep in mind that the ants in your garage are just a satellite colony. The main colony is outside somewhere, so it is a good idea to treat the exterior of the home every 60 to 90 days to prevent the ants from attacking another location or finding an areas of the garage where you missed when doing the treatments. You should also know that carpenter ants usually show up for one of two reasons. Either you have wet wood, which would suggest a leak some where, or you have termites. Carpenter ants love to eat termites. So, I would also do an inspection for termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. That video will show you what to look for when inspecting for termites. You need to inspect for frass and mud tubes. If you find anything like that, then please get back to me. You will usually find the mud tubes coming up from the ground around the exterior of the house, but you may also find them in the crawlspace, or even the attic. Frass can be found anywhere in the house or the garage. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Video on how to use Bora-Care: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rmr_aEodyhg.html Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html

Actually, if you treat as described in this video you should not have anymore wasps. Most of the time wasps build their nests in places where they are somewhat out of the weather, like under eves, in bushes, in fences, etc. Just treat all those places every three months with the same products and you will not have anymore wasps. That being said, a wasp may fly over from someone else's yard, but there is nothing you can do about that. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

The problem with sprayers is that they come and go all the time. The one that I use is no longer available. It seems like every time I recommend a different sprayer, it gets discontinued. The truth is that you can use any battery operated sprayer you like. The more pressure the sprayer has, the faster it will get the job done, and the higher it will reach. Of course, you get what you pay for. Decent sprayers usually run over $100, and put out over 65 psi, but I am seeing more and more of them that are running under $100, but I have no idea how good they are or how much pressure they have. Let me know if you have areas of the house that are fairly high up. If you do, then I can tell you an easy way to treat these areas, without using a ladder. Just e-mail me if you want to know how to do it. My e-mail is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. If you e-mail me, please remind me of your RU-vid name, so I know who you are. Also tell me you are looking to learn the secret on how to treat high up places on your house quickly and easily, without using a tank sprayer. I have reasons for not talking about it here. Be well my friend.

NY is a pain in the neck with the ridiculous pesticide restrictions. It is the worst state in the country when it comes to pesticide. No reason for it either. Anyway, you can get Onslaught FastCap, but it's not cheap. You are supposed to mix it 1 oz per gallon of water, but you may be able to get away with 1/2 oz per gallon of water to make it go further. It is for scorpions and they are hard to kill, so a weaker solution may be okay in NY. Can't hurt to try. The link is below. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. www.domyown.com/onslaught-fastcap-spider-and-scorpion-insecticide-p-2579.html

@@GuysPestSolutions thanks! Will anything from Home Depot work somewhat? Looks like my only option

@@michaeljohnson6201 To be honest, I have no idea what sorts of pesticides, if any, would be for sale at Home Depot or Lowes in NY. If you've get lucky, they may have something like Ortho Home Defense in a concentrate. If they have anything like that, just mix it at the maximum strength that the label will allow. That is still going to be expensive though. You can buy that stuff for something like $13 a quart, but you have to mix it at around 2.5 oz per gallon of water, so a quart does not go very far. I wish I could be of more help, but New York never found something they didn't like to regulate more than anybody else. Sometimes I think they're having a contest with California to see who can come up with the stupidest regulations in the country. It makes no sense to me, but it is what it is. I do hope you find something that works for you. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you Guy. I bought ortho home defense. Not concentrated but it’s better than nothing. Is concentrate better than ready to use?

@@michaeljohnson6201 The concentrate is less expensive per finished gallon and you can mix it stronger too. It is also easier to apply with a garden sprayer. You don't usually get much volume coming out of those premixed products. Still, as you point out, it's better than nothing. Be well Michael.

I am so sorry that you are having this problem. The first thing that you need to know about carpenter ants is that they like soft, wet wood. So, if they are above the ceiling and you have no attic, then you most likely have a moisture problem between the ceiling and the roof. This is caused by either a leak in the roof or by insufficient air flow between the ceiling and the roof. This needs to be solved because, even without the carpenter ants, this moisture problem may result in structural failure of the roof. Therefore, you need to call a contractor to have a look to see what the problem is. Another thing you need to know about carpenter ants is that they do not eat wood the way termites do. That means they need to forage for food. So, if you are seeing them inside the house, then you need to start baiting them, as shown in my video. Just use the bait wherever you are seeing the ants. Also, since these guys are not eating the wood, you have to wonder what they are doing up there. Well, the answer is that they have tunneled through some of the wood to create a satellite colony in your roof structure. The main colony is most likely located outside someplace, in a dead tree stump or something like that. Therefore, you need to treat the exterior of the house as I show in my video. This will kill any carpenter ants that try to go to and from your house and it may even kill off the main colony, which is outside. Now that you've done that, the ants that are left inside the house will either need to go outside to eat or they will need to seek food inside the house. If they go outside to forage for food, then they will cross your pesticide barrier and die. They will also bring the pesticide back to the satellite colony that is inside the house, which will help kill that off as well. If they forage for food inside the house, then hopefully, they will take the bait that you leave for them. It is the nature of ants to carry food back to the colony and so the bait will not only kill the ants that eat it, but also the ants that are in the colony. You should also know that there are two kinds of carpenter ants. They are the ones that are all black, and those are the guys that are busy tunneling through your roof structure. However, if you live in the Deep South, then there is a possibility that these guys are Florida carpenter ants, and these guys typically do not tunnel through wood. They just build satellite colonies in hollow voids in your home, and they do prefer overhead spaces, like attics. Florida carpenter ants are not all black. If the ants are partially red or orange, then this could be your problem. These guys do not require moisture or soft, wet wood the way the black ants do. That is because they are not tunneling through the wood. So, if you have the Florida ants, then you do not need to worry about moisture above your ceiling. Whether you have the black ants or the Florida ants, the treatment is exactly the same. Finally, a little know fact about carpenter ants is that they like to eat termites. It is not unusual for them to show up if you have a termite problem. Therefore, you need to check your house for termite tubes, kick out holes, and frass. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species, so that you can see what this stuff looks like and where to find it. You can also call a pest controller to do a free termite inspection. Hopefully, you don't have any termites, but it's worth checking. I hope that helps. Be well Natalie. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html

Hello! Thanks for the video. I just watched your other video on treating the outside of the home as well. We have seen a few random black carpenter ants (SE Indiana is where we live). We live in a berm home that is brick, but obviously there is wood within the walls and ceiling. No basement or crawlspace. My problem is that I can’t tell where these ants are coming from! I’ve seen them in all different rooms, no evidence of where the colony might be. I have not heard any sounds in the walls, but I suppose if they are in the attic then the insulation could be buffering the sound? I initially just set out some Terro liquid bait but they don’t seem interested. They also don’t appear to be going after any food in the pantry. We keep dog food in a canister so I don’t think they’re getting into that either. I’m thinking if we start with the powder and maybe try some protein bait first for inside and spray outside? We see maybe 1-2 ants a day, some days none. They’re driving me crazy though and I keep imaging them just tearing my house’s insides apart so they gotta go!

​@@brittanyspangler5206 What you are describing is not that unusual. Carpenter ants do not eat wood like termites do, so they must forage for food. They may be doing this inside the house, outside the house, or inside the walls. If you are wondering how they can forage for food inside the walls, the answer is that carpenter ants like to eat termites. It is not unusual to find carpenter ants, if you have a termite infestation. Now, I am not saying that's what's going on here, but it is definitely worth checking out. Go around the house and look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground. If you find any, then you have your answer. Most carpenter ants do you prefer the sweet baits, and they will usually go for Terro. However, carpenter ants may sometimes prefer protein because their main food source Is usually other insects. Therefore, we do run into ants that will only eat protein bait. That is why I always use both. The reason you are probably only seeing a couple of these ants at a time it's because they usually operate at night. Take note of where you are seeing them and treat those areas with Temprid FX. Mix it at 16 ml per gallon of water. You can apply it with a cheap garden sprayer that you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. Just lightly spray baseboards, window sills, and other areas where you have seen the ants. After the product dries, then use a gel bait and a protein bait. Also, you do need to treat the outside of your house every three months, because the main colony is outside. What you have in your house is a satellite colony. Please get back to me if you find mud tubes and I will guide you further on the termites. Otherwise, just treat with the Temprid FX, and then follow all the other recommendations in my carpenter ant video. I have links to everything in the video description, except for the Temprid FX. I hope that helps. Be well Brittany. Temprid FX: www.domyown.com/temprid-fx-insecticide-p-17130.html

@@GuysPestSolutions I will go out today and look for signs of termites. For what it’s worth, we did just recently purchase this home and the inspector did not notice any termite activity, but I suppose that doesn’t mean they couldn’t be here now. I hope not! I have seen less and less ant activity over the last few days so maybe they are going for the bait after all, just not when I see them do it. Either way I will make sure to treat the inside and outside. I am concerned about treating with dogs in the home. Is it dangerous?

@@brittanyspangler5206 If your home was inspected just buy a home inspector, then there is a good chance they could have missed a termite infestation. You always want your home inspected by an actual licensed pest controller before you purchase it. A lot of banks require this, but not all of them do. It is fine to treat the inside of the house with the dogs present, but you do want to put them in a different room while you are treating. The pesticide is perfectly safe for people and pets after it dries. Be well Brittany.

Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

The pesticides from the big box stores are pretty much useless. The concentrated ones that you mix with water have very low concentrations of the actual pesticide. That is why they are so cheap. You are basically buying water. You would need to mix it way stronger than the label suggests, to get the same concentration as the professional products. So, using the professional products is not only more effective, but also less expensive too. There are a couple of exceptions, but it involves using amateur products off label. Raid Ant and Roach Killer is a good example. You should never use it on ants and roaches, but it's great for many other pests that are not listed on the label. Check out my video on it. More often than not, the stuff you get from the big box stores will do more harm than good and those products often make an infestation worse. So, if you want to know how to treat a specific pest, the best thing you can do is to ask me. I am always happy to explain how to treat any pest you run into. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Raid Ant and Roach Killer video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m7j05DxSj3s.html

Hi Roberta. I have some good news for you. Most of the time carpenter ants do not cause significant harm to trees. That is because they are drawn to wet, dead wood. Not always, but typically they are tunneling through parts of the tree that are decayed and they are not disturbing the healthy wood that is still allowing the flow of water and nutrients to the tree. So, I would not panic about carpenter ants in the tree. However, I would still treat for them. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. Therefore, they often leave the tree to find food. While they may find other insects to eat in or on the tree, it is likely that they will need to leave the tree to forage for food. So, I would provide it for them in the form of a bait. You can use the same baits as in the video and you can place them near where you see the activity on the tree. Also, you can use a fipronil foam and shoot it directly into the holes that you see where the ants are kicking out frass. Just shoot it in the holes for about five seconds. This is not a permanent treatment, so you will need to monitor the tree and retreat whenever you see activity again. Any fipronil based foam will do the job. The best deal I have found on it is FiPro and it is only sold by Solutions Pest and Lawn. I will place a link below. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for your response. I wish I could upload photos of the pile at the bottom of the tree...they have been at it (and it is a declining tree unfortunately). I do have some good news though. I mixed sugar and honey with borax and water until melted and also put a separate mix of PB and borax in various places and I have not seen them since. They were literally jumping down from the hole up the tree with bits of wood in their mouth like little parachutists :) I"m thinking that they got some poison because I do not see any right now. Is Fipronil very toxic for the environment and pets? We get some wildlife and our water table is pretty high. I really appreciate your help :)

@@robertaestrada7447 Borax is deadly to all ants and I know of folks who have had good results mixing their own bait using Borax and some sort of sweet ingredient like sugar or honey. I have never done that myself because it would not be professional, but I suspect that it would be very effective if done properly. If you place the bait where the activity is and you see the ants eating it, then it should do the job. Borax is slow working, but very effective. Fipronil is not harmful to the environment, people, or pets when used properly. It should not be used on plants that attract bees because it will kill of the bee population. However, shooting it into the kick holes in a tree will not do any harm to the environment and will not harm the bee population in any way. However, it will definitely ruin the carpenter ants afternoon. They cannot identify it as a poison and they happily go right through it and bring it back to the colony and share it with the other ants and the queen. Now, the bait you made may do the job all by itself. It's hard to know because some ants do not like sweet baits. They prefer protein instead of sweet and so the queen may not eat the sweet bait. You just never know. Each colony is different. Most of the time they do prefer the sweet bait, so you could be okay just doing what you are doing. As for the tree dying, that may not be due to the carpenter ants at all. They generally do not tunnel through the healthy wood. They prefer to tunnel through the damaged or dead wood and most of the time they are infesting a tree that is already in decline for some other reason. So, even if you eliminate the carpenter ants, the tree may still die from some other cause. Nature intended for carpenter ants to be one of their sanitation workers to clean up dead wood and not healthy wood. That is why all the trees in the forest are not dying from carpenter ant infestations. If this tree is important to you, then you may want to get someone to look at it that knows about trees. There is a good chance that there is something else going on other than the ants. I hope that helps.

First, I am so sorry for the delay in answering your question. I live in Florida, and I have a hurricane heading very close to where I live, and so I've spent the last three days getting ready for it. I just got finished a little while ago so I can get back to answering questions now. It is okay to spray the crawlspace, but I would not spray it with Talstar P. The best thing you can do is to spray all the wood with Bora-Care. I will provide a link below for a video on how to do that and where to get the product as well. This will permanently treat all the wood and it will prevent not only carpenter ants, but termites as well. The other thing that you can do is too spray with a non-repellent pesticide. The Talstar P is a repellent, so you do not want to use that. There are any number of non-repellent pesticides on the market that will do a great job, but I like Temprid FX the best because it is the most cost effective. You can use it to spray absolutely everything in the crawlspace. Just make sure that you wear all your protective equipment. Carpenter ants love moisture, so if you add moisture, then that will attract them. You would be better off trying to find a way to reduce the moisture and humidity in the crawl space. I hope that helps. He will my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions Hope you and yours are safe. Ian looks like a monster viewed from here in Seattle. Thoughts and prayers for you, yours and all of Florida. I really appreciate your quick response to my question. I did not notice a delay! 🙂 I have been trying to kill the satellite colonies in my floor boards but have been frustrated with the results ... I do think there is less activity and I do see a number of ant carcasses below the nests, but the nests are still active after a couple of weeks of using sweet and protein bait (put directly under the nests). The living ants seem to be a lot less interested in the bait ... early on ants would swarm the bait and show immediate interest if I dropped some in their path. That was using sweet only. I have seen no interest in protein bait and lately they seem uninterested in the sweet? Is that normal? I have started to use Termidor foam and D-fense dust to treat the beam that they seem to use for transit between the two colonies (at opposing corners of the front of my house). All of this from the underside in the crawlspace. I am going to spray the interior foundation walls in the trouble areas using Taurus SC, probably at 1.2% concentration. I am looking into adding boracare to the arsenal to get the wooden components, although if I keep up maintenance of the exterior insecticide (using your suggested twice a year Taurus SC and twice a year Talstar) do I need to worry about reinfestation of ants in those areas (once I have knocked them out, assuming I can)? Possibly amusing origin story for my battle: I am an amateur woodworker and I built a couple of bookcases for my wife's pandemic home office. After a year or so, she noticed some adult beetles in her office. We investigated and found frass and new exit holes in the bookcases ... the wood had apparently been infested with powderpost beetles, which I should have noticed (amateur, like I said). A few days after cutting the bookcases into disposable pieces (sniff) my wife was sweeping around the front of the house and noticed frass (which she now knew how to identify) and after a little investigation we found the nests in the crawlspace. So, bookcases proved to be sacrificial offering to potentially save our house (trying to find the positive here 🙂)

@@kentdietz1749 We experienced some minor damage from the storm, but not anything I can't handle. The good news is that we're all safe. Too bad you didn't tell me about the powderpost beetles in the bookcase. I could have told you how to get rid of them without getting rid of the bookcases. I think we could have gotten rid of them fairly easily. Treating the crawl space with Taurus SC will definitely get the job done, but it is not really recommended to be spraying it around in a confined space like that. If you do, then be sure to wear a good respirator and eye protection. Take a shower after you are finished treating. Also, you only need to mix it 0.8 oz per gallon. Doubling the concentration is not necessary. I think Temprid FX would be the safer way to go though. I think it is somewhat unusual that the ants stopped eating the bait, but you can treat the ant trails with PT Alpine. This is a non-repellent pesticide that comes in a spray can. Just spray it along the trails where you would have used the bait. The ants will not know that it's a pesticide and they will happily cross it and bring it back to the colony with them. I will place a link below for it. Be well my friend. PT Alpine: Alpine Aerosol, Alpine PT Pressurized Insecticide Aerosol (domyown.com)

That is so nice of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Are you sure these are carpenter ants? If so, do you live in Florida? If the answer to both questions is yes, then you have Florida carpenter ants. They are not like the black carpenter ants because they usually do not tunnel through wood. They can, but they usually don't. Most of the time they colonize in the soffits around the roof. They do not eat wood the way termites do, so they must forage for food. If you treat the house with Taurus SC every 3 months, as I show in the video, then new ants will not be able to colonize in the home. It is important to spray the soffits. If you have places that are too high to reach, you can use a hose end sprayer and switch to Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that. The beginning of the video shows you how to use Bifen IT in a tank sprayer, but the latter part of the video talks about treating high up places with a hose end sprayer. If you go with Bifen, then you should treat every 60 days. That's what I do. The hose end sprayer is super-fast, so I treat everything with it. The inside of the house should be treated as shown in the video. The place where they were eating the meat would make a great place to put some bait. Just put some protein bait in jar cap and leave it there. Also put some sweet bait in a jar cap and put it right next to the protein bait. While those Florida carpenter ants do need to go, they almost never do damage to your home. Of course, if I'm wrong about you living in Florida, then disregard everything I just said and send a photo of one of these guys to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug before taking the photo. It needs to be done a certain way for me to identify the species. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your home with Bifen products: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html Video on how to properly photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html

Thank you so much for your very comprehensive reply. Yes, I live in Florida and yes they are definitely the Florida Carpenter ants. They have that red body. And yes I already watched your video and I have purchased the attachment so I could use my hose to spray that less viscous insecticide on them. So that's exactly what I'll do. And I bought the bait both kinds and the bait trap so I will put them out as soon as they come. Once again, thank you so much for your videos. I refer all my friends in Florida to watch them. I hope you find it satisfying to be able to help so many people even after your retirement. And I hope your RU-vid channel starts providing some cash for you as well!!

@@joanm3682 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for recommending me to others. That is the highest compliment I can possibly receive. I really do enjoy helping people, and I have saved people over 100 million dollars so far. That does feel pretty good. I told my wife that if everybody that watched my videos just gave me 25 cents each, we would be millionaires. Lol. Unfortunately, I am not exactly getting rich off my RU-vid videos. I do get a bit of money from the ad revenue, but it's not exactly lucrative. However, it has allowed me to upgrade my equipment quite a bit. If you look at my latest videos, you will notice that they have much better audio quality and better video quality too. They have improved so much that I am planning to redo the carpenter ant video. Unfortunately, there are a few other videos that I need to get done first. Anyway, it sounds like you are going to be on top of the problem, so give yourself a big pat on the back. Well done. Be well Joan.

Let me start by saying that I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Carpenter ants love moisture and damp wood. If there is water in the crawl space, that is a serious problem. That means there is either a leak of some sort caused by a plumbing leak or weather coming in or possibly there is not enough ventilation down there. This is something that you must attend to immediately. Failure to remediate the moisture problem is almost certainly going to result in a structural failure of the floor, not to mention a mold problem. If you have carpenter ants, then I can almost guarantee that they are busy tunneling their way through your floor joists as we speak. I understand that money is tight, but your home is your largest investment and you need to protect it. The good news is that fixing the water problem may not be as expensive as you may think. If the problem is caused by a plumbing leak then, most plumbers can probably fix it for a couple of hundred dollars. If this is a ventilation problem or a weather problem, then a handyman may also be able to fix the problem for a few hundred dollars. Personally, I would start with the handyman first. A plumber will usually charge you around a $100 fee to just come out and look, while a handyman will often come out and take a look at the problem for free. The good news is that a handyman can probably fix a plumbing problem as well as any other issues that you may be having down there. Simply putting a dehumidifier down there is most likely not going to get it done. With regard to the carpenter ants, you have to perform all the treatments that are explained in my video. Almost all the time there is a main colony located somewhere outside of your home and a sub colony that is inside your home. You need to eliminate the sub colony that is inside your home and then you must treat the exterior of your home every three months to ensure that you do not get re-infested. If you follow all the procedures that I explained in the video, this will eliminate the carpenter ant problem. I am so sorry that I do not have better news for you, but what I'm telling you is the absolute truth. Start by calling a couple of handymen and see if you can get somebody to visit who will give you a free estimate for fixing the problem. At least that way you will know how much money you are looking at to solve the moisture problem. Next, go ahead and buy all the pesticides that I mention in my video. Begin the treatment for the carpenter ants just as soon as those pesticides arrive. I would urge you not to put either these issues off any longer because it will result in serious structural damage to your home if you do. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. I would be more than happy to help in any way that I can.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so very much. All of the advice is appreciated. I am on it and I will start ordering the treatment as soon as I get off work…. Thank you, thank you, thank you😊

@@NewYorkNaturals It's always my pleasure April. You can feel free to call on me at any time. I am always here to help. Be well.

Carpenter ants do not generally infest live wood, so at least part of that tree is probably dying. I recommend spraying your entire yard and the exterior of your house every 60 days. If you just spray the tree about 4 feet up and you spray the ground around the tree about 4 feet out, that will probably take out that colony, but there may be other colonies that you do not know about, so treating the yard on a regular basis is a good idea. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html

Canada is very restrictive when it comes to pesticides. Sometimes though you can get around this problem. First, you can use boric acid dust in the outlets and you can lightly dust the ant trails. Boric acid is slow acting, but it will get the job done. I'm not sure, but I think it's still available in Canada. Of course, that does not help with the outside. Other Canadians have told me that sometimes Amazon will ship to them and when that fails you can often buy these products from eBay sellers. If you go with eBay sellers you can expect to pay about twice as much as Amazon. I'm guessing the reason for that is because the sellers are assuming some risk and they want to be compensated for it. Still, it's cheaper than hiring a pest controller. With regard to baits... Some folks have been experimenting with making their own bait with things like boric acid and honey. I have never tried it, but there are RU-vid videos that explain how to do it. Other than that I don't know what to tell you. It's a shame that Canada is so restrictive with this stuff. It does not make a lot of sense to me, but it is what it is. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more assistance.

First of all, you definitely have carpenter ants where you live. It's hard to believe that a pest controller that operates in that area would not know this. It's the sort of thing that I expect to hear from some of the national companies that send out trained salespeople instead of actual pest controllers. The colony that is in your house is most likely a satellite colony. The main colony is probably outside somewhere. Unless you are experiencing a lot of carpenter ants getting into your food, then these guys are probably foraging for food outside. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood, so they need to forage for food. If they are not getting it inside the house, then they are going to go outside in search of a meal. If you have the outside treated with Taurus SC, then the ants are most likely crossing it on their way to and from that satellite colony. The Taurus SC is not flushing them out, it is just making them so sick that they're going to die. This is not an immediate kill, so it is possible that you may see some ants that are roaming around that appear to be not functioning the way you would expect. This is because the product is working on their nervous system. Also, if the ants are taking the bait, then the same sort of thing is going to happen with that. The ants take the bait back to the satellite colony and they share it with the other ants, and this too will get them sick to the point where they are going to die. If any ants decide to come in from the main colony, they too will cross the Taurus SC, and they will also die. These products are purposely designed to kill the ants slowly because we want to give the ants time to bring the bait or the Taurus SC back to the colony so that they can share it with their friends and family members. So, it sounds to me like the process is working pretty well. It is perfectly fine to go ahead and use the D-Fense dust in the walls. This product is non-repellent, and the ants do not recognize it as a hazard. Just like the Taurus SC, the ants will bring it back to the colony and share it with the other ants. It kills a lot faster than Taurus SC, so using it in an area where the ants are traveling will help to eliminate the colony faster. It sounds like you were paying attention when you watched the video, and you are doing a wonderful job. Just keep in mind that you need to retreat the outside of the house every 90 days. If you really want to get rid of the main colony that is outside as well as the satellite colony that you already killing, then you can do that by treating your lawn. That will totally ruin their afternoon. I have a video on how to do that, and I will give you the link in case you're interested. If you treat your lawn, then you can use the same product that you use on the lawn to spray on your house as well. It's cheaper per finished gallon than Taurus SC or Talstar P. It seems very expensive when you go to buy the product, but it is highly concentrated. It only gets mixed at 1/3 of an ounce per gallon of water. That means 1 oz of it will make 3 gallons of pesticide. When measuring this product, the best way to do it is with the syringe. I will give you a link to them. These are 10 mm syringes. That is equal to two teaspoons or 1/3 of an ounce. Just fill the syringe to the 10 mm mark and you have 1/3 of an ounce, which will make 1 gallon. I always pour the product into a measuring cup and then I draw it out with the syringe. Just pour the unused product back in the bottle. When you treat the yard, you will be using a hose end sprayer, and that does all the mixing for you. Just follow the directions in my video. Personally, I treat both my yard and the exterior of my house every 60 days, and I do both with the hose end sprayer. It makes the job go way faster. It can be a little messy around windows though, so you may want to mix up one gallon in a pump-up garden sprayer, just to treat around the windows. You may not need to do this every 60 days where you live. I live in Florida, and we have a lot of bugs here. You can try doing it every 90 days and see how it works out. If you start seeing activity, then just change it to every 60 days. Congratulations on doing a perfect job. Well done. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html Measuring syringes: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZYQD5YB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guy, thank you for your help. I am going dust the walls with D-Fense. I do not see ANY ant activity outside. However, I do have a large, park-like rear yard with grass, shrubs, and Live Oak trees. I will get the stuff to treat the rear yard. Thanks again.

@@josephcastillo1809 You are very welcome. Trust me. The ants are out there. They had to come from somewhere. Right? The main colony may also be in the neighbor's yard as well, but treating the lawn will still seriously ruin their afternoon. I think you've got this. Be well my friend.

The good news is that Florida carpenter ants do little or no damage to the building. They can bite though. The fire ants are super easy and cheap to get rid of. Just watch my video on how to get rid of them for about $10. I will place a link below. The product I recommend literally works overnight. If you apply it one day, the ants are totally gone the next day. It's really that fast and effective. In fact, it never fails. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VReLWuT-jcQ.html

Actually, you can do that, but you need to do it every 90 days, which is not consistent with label recommendations. That would not concern me at all, but to keep it legal, you need to alternate products. That being said, using Taurus SC every 90 days would be more effective than alternating products. Please note that I am on vacation, and I will not be home until after June 11, so I may not be able to answer follow-up questions until I get home. So, please be patient, I will get caught up as quickly as possible. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions Hey! - that's my saying! - "Be well". Also - THANKS!

Thank you for those kind words. Greatly appreciated.

I ordered from Domyown.com , D-fense dust, maxforce carpenter ant bait gel, advance granular ant bait, talstar p, taurus sc. Still fighting my carpenter ants infestation but a lot of ants died already and im positive that i will win this battle with this annoying carpenter ants. Thank you Guy. You really helped me a lot.

@@user-tl5yk9es2t It sounds like you are doing a great job. Please keep in mind that this is a somewhat slow process and can often take a few weeks because you are trying to get the pesticides back to the colonies to kill off the queens. So, it is designed not to be an instant kill sort of thing. However, once the colonies are dead, they are dead, and all you need to do after that is the three month exterior treatments to prevent new infestations. I'm sure these girls will be one soon. Yes, they are all female.

Hi Angie. First of all, you can go ahead and clean up the dead ants. Next, you need to know that most of the time the carpenter ants in your home are actually a satellite colony and just killing off that colony may not end the problem because the main colony is most likely outside in a tree stump or some other soft wood habitat. So, the ants from the main colony may just reinvest the same area. The Terro ant baits are actually pretty good, but that alone may not get the job done. I mean, I never say never, but I would regard it a kind of a Hail Mary Pass. If it were me, I would do the full treatment and be done with it because these girls (They are all female) are busy destroying your home. I totally understand that my video is really long and most folks want to know everything there is to know about killing carpenter ants in five minutes or less. I'm the same way. When I look for a how to video I am often tempted to check out the shortest one first. The problem is though that eliminating carpenter ants is not all that easy and it just takes some time to fully explain how to do it. Pest controllers spend many hours learning the trade and are required to go to school ever year to stay up to date of this stuff because it just takes time to learn how to do it right. There are quick fixes for some pests, but carpenter ants are just not in that category. What I explain in my video will eliminate the problem 100 percent. It literally never fails. Unfortunately, you do need to watch the video to see how to do it. I know that the video is almost 34 minutes long, but you can skip through a few minutes at the beginning, so you are only looking at a little less than a half hour to save your house. I think it's a good investment of your time. Now, if you think sitting through a half hour how to video is arduous, then you should try making one. Most folks don't realize that it is common to work for an hour to produce just one minute of usable video. So, a half hour video can easily take 30 hours to produce. I mean, kill me now. You have to organize what you are going to say, then shoot several takes of the video because you know you are going to screw it up a few times, then you end up spending a lot of time in post production. DIY videos don't exactly go viral very often, so the only real compensation we get from doing it is the satisfaction of helping others. For me, that's all the compensation I need. I love helping people and it is no burden for me at all, so I am not complaining. I have definitely heard from a few folks that told me that I need to shorten them up, but the truth is that I am not a professional videographer, presenter, actor, or anything else in the video production field. I'm just an old, retired pest controller and I do the best that I can with my limited time, videography knowledge, equipment, and so forth. So, I do apologize for the length of my videos. That being said, I would strongly urge you to watch the entire treatment plan if you want to eliminate these gals for good. The good news is that you replaced a lot of the damaged wood and carpenter ants like soft, wet wood and not new wood. So, I am guessing that there is still some compromised wood that they are infesting. Either that or these are Florida carpenter ants, which do not tunnel through wood at all, but rather colonize in hollow areas. Sorry for the long answer. I hope that helps.

@@GuysPestSolutions You are amazing and I appreciate the time and effort you put into your response to me and everyone else. I really do appreciate you and will def. be watching the entire video.

@@AngieMac333 That is so kind of you to say. You made my day. Let me know if I can answer anymore questions. I'm always here to help.

I see carpenter ants in the kitchen only in the early spring, do you think there's a chance that there is a colony inside or they're just coming from outside scavenging for food? I don't ear any noise from the walls and checked the attic, the walls behind the counter and can't find any nest.

@@simonhoule8601 Most of the time there is a colony outside the house somewhere and also a satellite colony inside the house. To effectively eliminate carpenter ants, you need to eliminate the satellite colony inside the house, and then put up a protective barrier around the house, so you do not get reinfested. The best way to do it is to apply the dust first, to ensure that it does not accidentally get on any of the bait. So, dust first, apply the bait second, and then do the exterior treatment. You should not wait to do the exterior treatment. I can usually do all of this within a couple of hours. It is very possible that the satellite colony is located near the kitchen. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Ah yes, good old Florida carpenter ants. It sounds like you are doing a good job treating for them, but you need to also do the outside treatment as well. Here's the thing. Carpenter ants are not like termites. Trenching the home and treating with Taurus SC works great for termites and it does help somewhat with carpenter ants, but that is not going to get it done. That's because carpenter ants do not need to return to the ground to obtain moisture like subterranean termites do. Subterranean termites MUST enter from the ground. Carpenter ants can enter through any opening anywhere on the building, even in the eves. So, if you attack the problem from the inside only, there is a good chance that they will continue to infest your home. Baiting could eliminate the problem and it often does, but not necessarily. Therefore, if you want these things gone for sure, then you need to treat both the outside and the inside of the building. Once you have treated the exterior and the interior, then you can expect that it will take a few weeks for the problem to completely go away. That's because these pesticides are not a fast kill. You don't want them to be fast. What you want is for the ants to take the pesticide back to the colony, so that it will kill other ants and the queen. Once the queen is gone, then the entire colony will die out. Unfortunately, it's kind of a slow process. Most people want these things gone immediately and that is certainly understandable, but slow and steady wins the race. You didn't mention doing the outside treatment, so I would urge you to do that as soon as you can. I can tell you that is exactly what the pros will do. Also, the dusts that I recommend will help a lot. Once you finally get rid of these things, then I recommend doing the exterior treatment every three months to prevent another infestation. Hang in there. I had a really bad Florida carpenter ant infestation when I moved into my home in Florida and it took about six weeks for all of them to die. Now I am carpenter ant free and I have been for the last eight years. You can do this. Just be patient. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

@@GuysPestSolutions I have trenched and used the Taurus SC. They are dying but not as fast as I would like.

@@dallaspilotcar9293 Trenching with Taurus SC works great for termites, but it's not the best solution for carpenter ants. Don't get me wrong, you can stop some of them that way, but these things can enter from anywhere. It's very common for them to enter through cracks, crevices, pipe penetrations, etc. That's why I say to treat the exterior of the building and also use baits and dusts inside. I can definitely appreciate that the process is taking longer than you would like. Most people want these things gone right now, but the truth is that it can take a few weeks for the entire colony to be dead. My best advice is to get that Taurus SC in all the exterior penetrations. I always spray down the soffits because there are always lots of entry points where the wood joints are located. It's the same for around windows and doors. The idea is that you want to apply the Taurus SC everywhere that they could possibly enter or exit. That will prevent them from coming and going. Also, be sure that there are not trees or bushes touching the house. Once the entire exterior is treated, then the interior treatment will finish them off. I'm sorry that it takes so long, but you are most likely seeing lots of dead bodies already. That's a good thing. It means it's working. Hang in there my friend. You will get it done.

There really is a lot to talk about here. Let's start with the maple tree. The first thing you should know is that carpenter ants do not damage wood that is alive. Since they only tunnel through dead wood, that means the tree that they are infesting has some sort of disease. So, the truth is that carpenter ants do not kill trees. I think it is unlikely that the ants in the maple tree is the main colony. Both the colonies that are in your house and the tree are most likely satellite colonies. Since the ants in the tree are not causing any damage to the tree, and it is not likely that they represent the main colony, there is no need to worry about treating the tree. However, if you wish to treat the tree, all you really need to do is to spray the trunk of the tree, all the way around, as far up as you can reach, with Taurus SC. Then, spray a band around the entire tree, 18 inches from the base of the tree out. Carpenter ants do not eat wood, so that means they need to forage for food. Since it is unlikely that there is enough food in that tree to support the satellite colony, they are going to have to come and go from the tree to obtain a food supply. When they do, they will cross the Taurus SC and that will result in the demise of the entire satellite colony. Of course, if you do not treat the tree every three months, then it will most likely get reinfested by the main colony at some point. This brings me to the house. You most likely have at least one satellite colony in your house, but you may have another issue going on there as well. You told me that you are seeing tunnels in the foam insulation. I would like a little more information about these tunnels. Are these tunnels just foam that was excavated, or are you seeing any type of mud tubes in that area? If the tunnels are just hollowed out areas, then the issue is probably limited to the carpenter ants. However, if you are seeing any mud tubes there, then you may also have termites. It is very common to find and both termites and carpenter ants in the exact same area. Therefore, I would be a really bad pest controller if I did not ask that question. Now let's talk about treatment. You definitely want to use the fipronil foam every place that you see activity. Unfortunately though, if you want to totally eliminate this infestation, then you are going to need to do all the treatments that are listed in the video. After you are finished doing all the interior treatments, then you need to treat the exterior of the house with Taurus SC. Going forward, you are going to need to treat the exterior of the house every three months with Bifen IT. That is because the main colony is still outside someplace and, if you do not treat the exterior of your house every three months, then these guys are going to be back. Believe me when I tell you that everything in the video is done for a reason. I hope that helps. Please get back to me if you are seeing any mud tubes. Be well my friend.

Thank you so much for those kind words. I honestly cannot tell you if you kill the queen or not. It is always possible. I am very happy to hear that you will be able to obtain the pesticide that you need in Texas. Solutions Pest and Lawn has several stores in the Houston area. So, if you are close, you may want to stop in and get what you need. Be well Kitty and have a safe trip.

If you are seeing carpenter ants inside your home, regardless of the number of them that you are seeing, then you do have an infestation inside your home. This is most likely a satellite colony and the main colony is outside the house. It could very well be in that retaining wall because that is the perfect place where carpenter ants love to build their colonies. So, you may also want to treat that retaining wall as well. Just spray the wall with the Taurus SC and spray an area along the wall, on the ground, 18 inches from the wall. After the initial treatment with the Taurus SC, you do not need to apply that product every three months. After you have the infestation eliminated, then you can prevent new ones simply by using Bifen IT every three months going forward. The Bifen IT is way cheaper than the Taurus SC. You need to use the Taurus SC for the initial treatment because it is a non-repellent pesticide and the ants are not going to know that it is a poison. So, they will bring it back to the colony with them and share it with the other ants. This will wipe out the entire colony. Now that you have the colony wiped out, you can just use the Bifen IT, because it is a repellent pesticide and the ants are going to know that they are being poisoned, so they will avoid it and not enter your house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Alternative supplier for Bifen IT, if Solutions will not ship it to you: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=552

Thank you for the reply, I am looking forward to getting rid of the pests. And I’m absolutely positive my wife is too!

@@daniell8304 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Guy, thanks for the Videos. A few months back in May/June we found maybe 10 Carpenter ants in our home. It’s less than a year old, all brick exterior. Obviously we killed them as we found them and have not seen any in the past two months. Our home backs up to a creek, than a wooded area, with some dead or downed trees. Do you think we have an infestation or do you think those were just scouts? There are no other signs of them.

@@jimb9946 If these are carpenter ants then you most likely have an infestation. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood, so they need to forge for food and that is why you saw the dead bodies. Also, they seldom build main colonies in your home. It is more likely that they have created a satellite colony in your home. The main colony is most likely someplace out in the woods. If it were me, I would do the entire treatment that is outlined in my video. You did not tell me where you live, so that raises some questions in my mind. You said this is a new home and carpenter ants typically like, soft, wet wood. So, either you have some sort of a leak somewhere or you may be living in a state where Florida carpenter ants our problem. These guys do not typically tunnel through wood, but rather colonize in wall voids or roof soffits. You also want to make sure that these are actually carpenter ants and not something else. Most carpenter ants are quite large, so if these guys are small, you may be looking at a more common kind of house ant. If you see any more of them, then obtain a specimen, so that you can properly identify it. Let me know if you need assistance with that. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

I guess I can't argue with that advice. The only thing is that I try not to ask folks to buy too many products, so I do try to consolidate pesticides when possible. Since D-Fense dust is registered to use on ant trails, I figured it's best not to make the thing more complicated than it needs to be. Even though I know that there are some pros out there that are watching my videos, the truth is that, most of the time, I am aiming them at do it yourselfers who cannot afford to hire a pro. So, I always need to try and balance the need for effectiveness against the need to keep things as simple as possible and avoid too much complexity. It's not always easy and I do sometimes suggest things that a pro would not consider doing. That being said, what I suggest always works, albeit perhaps not as quickly as if a different product was used. While the D-Fense dust may cause the ants to avoid an area, I'm not so sure that's necessarily a bad thing either. I can tell you that my wife does not want to hear that I am going to take several days to get rid of the ants. She wants them gone now, so applying a repellent to areas where she wants the ants gone fast can make some sense. Particularly if I want to remain married. You know... Happy wife, happy life. I don't think she is alone in that either. There are a lot of folks out there that don't want to hear about the need to hang out with the ants for a few days. You must have run into that before. It is also true that the ants may avoid the bait that is placed over the dust and I really wasn't thinking about that when suggested the dust and the bait on baseboards. I was more thinking that it was an either or sort of thing and I should have made that clear in the video. These things are not scripted, so it was more of a slip of the tongue. Perhaps I should start to script these things. That is why you didn't see me apply a bait over the dust. You may have noticed in the video that I did not treat much in the way of baseboards with a bait. Anyway, I will clarify that whenever someone asks for advice. Meanwhile, it doesn't do any harm to bait over the dust. It's just that the ants may avoid it. They will still take the bait where the dust was not applied. So, at the end of the day, the process will still work. Also, this video was one of my earlier works, so it is understandable that it needed some improvement. I think I am getting much better at it now. I appreciate the comment and those kind words. I have no idea why pros watch my videos, but it is very humbling. Also, I know that not all the pros like what I do because they think that I am taking business away from them. I understand that, but my target audience is really folks that would not hire a pro anyway. I always tell people that if you can afford to pay to get something done for you, then why not? I mean, I pay to have my lawn mowed. I could do it myself, but I hate doing it and I can afford to hire someone, so I do. It's the same with cleaning your house. Hey, if you can afford to hire a cleaning person, why not? I know a lot of folks who simply cannot afford to hire a pro to take care of their pests and that is the reason I started doing the videos. The truth is that I was really just doing it for my neighbors and maybe some other folks locally, who are always asking for advice. This way I could just have them watch a video. I never dreamed that the thing would go global on me. I am getting views from all over the world now, including places like Uganda. I mean, who would have thought? I certainly never expected pros to watch. When I first started about two years ago you would have had a hard time finding me and now I am all over the place. The whole thing is seriously humbling. Anyway, I am happy that you are not in the hate camp and that you found some of my suggestions useful. Be well my friend.

You are correct. Good point. I suppose I should do a video on powderpost beetles. I guess I will have to add that to my list of videos that I need to get done. Thanks.

If you are actually seeing an entry point in the side of your building where the carpenter ants are coming in, then you are in luck. It just doesn't get any better than that. You would NOT want to use the D-Fense dust in this situation. Definitely go with the Termidor foam. Just shoot it into the hole for about 5 to 7 seconds and that's it. After that, spray some of that Taurus SC along the entire trail where the ants are traveling. You see, the ants are not going to identify the Taurus SC as a pesticide and so they're just going to kind of think it like rain. So, they will carry it back to their colony and share it with the other carpenter ants. The D-Fense Dust on the other hand is a repellent pesticide and, if you were to shoot that in the hole, then the ants would avoid it and that would actually work against you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you. I hadn't realized from the video that D-Fense had repellant qualities.

@@NurseAcrobat Most pesticides are actually repellent. They are quick kill and serve to keep pests away. So, we apply them to areas where we don't want bugs, but they are not designed to kill off colonies. For that we generally rely on baits or nonrepellent pesticides. While there are nonrepellent pesticides that can be used indoors, most of them are outside only, so we tend to go with baits indoors to kill off colonies or sub-colonies inside and we also apply repellent pesticides indoors to areas where we don't want the pests to be. I like D-Fense dust because it can last up to 8 months if left undisturbed and you can get it wet without it losing effectiveness. So, it's great for keeping carpenter ants away from certain areas and corralling them to the areas where we want them. That's why you apply it behind outlets and around pipes. Those areas are not easy to bait, so it's a good idea to treat them with a repellent pesticide. Now they cannot travel through the walls so easily or get into areas where they can obtain water. What we want is for them to take the baits and, even better yet, go outside looking for food and water. If they do that, then they will cross that Taurus SC and you know what happen then. XXXX

I agree that those are most likely weep holes. I don't think it would be a very good idea to seal them up. It should be okay to just spray across them while you are doing your exterior treatment. However, if you would like to overkill it, then you can shoot some fipronil foam into those holes or you could even puff in in a little bit D-Fense Dust. The D-Fense Dust lasts about 8 months, so it's something that you could just do once or twice a year. Another way to go would be to puff in some diatomaceous earth. This is a permanent product that is all natural and lasts forever. It works on any insect that cleans itself, like ants. The advantage to using this product is that you just need do it once and that's it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions I am going to take your advice and leave them open but apply the diatomaceous earth. Thanks again !

@@DaveG-qd6ug You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Drione dust works differently than D-Fense dust, but it should still work. Just be sure to wear a respirator. You should do that with all dusts, but especially with Drione dust. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

I guess I will need to watch that movie now. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions albeit anthropomorphized with horizontal mandibles replaced with vertical jaws with the same bite force to dig tunnels in both wood and soil

That presents a somewhat difficult challenge for any pest controller. The first thing you need to understand is that the colony under the house is usually only a satellite colony. The main colony is typically located somewhere outside the footprint of the building. So, if you treat the outside of the building, and you treat your yard, then you are going to most likely knock out the main colony. Therefore, my treatment would begin with treating the yard. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. Now that you have destroyed the main colony, you still need to go after the satellite colony. Since you cannot easily access this area, then you need to resort to some different tactics. We know that carpenter ants do not eat wood the way termites do. Carpenter ants are simply excavating the wood. Since they are not actually eating the wood, that means they must forage for food. Most of the time, they are doing that outside. If you see them inside the house, then you need to use a bait inside the house. If you are not seeing them inside the house, then they are foraging for food outside. So, I would place ant bait stations around the house. I will give you a link to the stations and the bait. Place a bait station at each corner of the house, and then place one at the center of the house on all four sides. Check the stations every couple of days to see if you were getting activity. If you see carpenter ants eating the bait, then this should do the trick. You can also sprinkle a bait on the ground around the house. I will give you a link to that as well. If this does not work, then get back to me because it means you will need to take more drastic measures. It is always best to try the easy way first though. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html Ant bait stations: www.domyown.com/ants-no-more-bait-station-p-329.html Ant bait for stations: www.domyown.com/antack-liquid-ant-bait-p-24003.html Ant bait to sprinkle around the house: www.domyown.com/maxforce-complete-granular-bait-p-1603.html

This sounds more like carpenter ants. Please tell me where you are located. Also, your comment just reached me now. That happens sometimes. Please email me instead at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Remind me of the problem when you email me. I will help you figure it out. Be well Grace.

Right off the top of my head, I don't see any reason to treat a log home any differently than any other type of home. I think you will be fine if you just follow the directions in this video. Great question though. I had to take a minute and think about it. Nobody has ever asked about a log home before. Logically, there should be no difference. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

Please watch my video on how to treat the outside of your house. I show you how to do the same basic treatment, but near the end of the video I show you how to do it with a hose end sprayer that you hook to a garden hose. It's lightweight and can reach heights of up to 25 feet, depending upon water pressure. The only thing is that you need to treat with Bifen XTS. It still works for carpenter ants. This product may seem expensive, but it gets mixed at only 1/3 oz per gallon, so it goes three times as far as most other products. So, it's actually less expensive per finished gallon. Just use the tank sprayer you have for easy to reach areas and the hose end sprayer for the higher up places. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the outside of your house: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html

You are very observant. You should always wear the required protective equipment. I don't wear it to do videos because I am not actually using actual pesticides in most cases. I am probably spraying with plain water. That is because I can't talk very well with a mask on. Heck, I have trouble talking WITHOUT the mask on. Lol. You don't need protective equipment for everything. Gloves are always a good idea, but you don't need a respirator unless you are at risk of inhaling a mist or fumes, such as when you are spraying liquids or using aerosols. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@@GuysPestSolutions big thanks. You are a great resource.

Hi Brian. I purchased the iLot sprayer on Amazon, but I cannot find them anymore. It's a great sprayer and it has served me well for several years. The good news is that any battery operated sprayer will do the job. I like having one on wheels, but it's not necessary. The wheeled models are a bit pricey, which is why I purchased the iLot. I think it was only about $40. Anyway, you can get a backpack sprayer from Harbor Freight for about $20 that will do the job. I will place a link below. If you need it to be on wheels, you can just bungie cord it to a hand truck. Harbor Freight has them for about $35, but they are in store only. Basically, any hand truck will do. The truth is that I don't use the wheels much anymore. I was using them because four gallons is way to heavy for me these days, but my wife suggested that I only put two gallons in the sprayer. Now why didn't I think of that? I guess that's why I married her. Two gallons and the sprayer only weighs about 20 pounds, so that's not so bad. I still don't carry it on my back, but still, it's pretty easy to move around with the handle and it gets lighter as I use it. I hope that helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. Backpack sprayer: www.harborfreight.com/search?q=backpack%20sprayer

I am so sorry that you're having this problem. It's important to understand that carpenter ants are not at all like termites. While they both destroy the wood in your home, carpenter ants do not actually eat wood and, unlike termites, they can be exposed to the air, while termites cannot. I'm mentioning this because, with Carpenter ants, you actually get to see them because they must forage for food. Also, since they do not mind being exposed to the air, they have the ability come and go on the surface of the ground and on surfaces on and in your home. That means, with carpenter ants you don’t need to worry about treating under the concrete step because the ants do not need to operate under the steps. Also, you should know that, most of the time, the carpenter ants in your house are a sub colony and the actual main colony is probably located somewhere outside of your home in a dead stump, wood pile, or other wood area. That means you absolutely must treat the exterior of the house every three months and it would be a good idea to do the first treatment with the Taurus SC. If you don’t treat every three months, then you will most likely get reinfested by the same main colony after you kill off the ants in your home. If you do everything that I show you in the video, then I can assure you that your carpenter ant problem will be gone fairly quickly. So, there is no need to worry about treating underneath the concrete steps, but you do need to do the three-month treatment on the exterior of the house. By the way. Most of the time carpenter ants go looking for soft, wet wood. If you are seeing them in your bathroom, that could be an indication that you have some sort of a leak in that area, either a leaking pipe, or perhaps water is getting in from the outside and causing some of the wood to soften and decay. Since this problem seems to be by the bathtub, that would suggest that you may have a leak in a pressurized pipe or a drainpipe. I would recommend removing the baseboard and having a look behind it to see if the drywall is damp. If it is, then you will most likely find a leak either in a pipe or water leaking in from the outside. If this is the case, then it's something that you absolutely must get fixed. I hope that helps. Be well Elizabeth.

I think the baits are essential to getting rid of carpenter ants. The good news is that dogs and cats almost never disturb the baits and even if they did, the baits are not really harmful to them anyway. Besides, we are talking about very small amounts of bait. You don't want to use a lot of bait. Just small dots where you see the activity will do the job. Keep checking the bait every day and keep giving the ants more of it as they eat it. In the unlikely event that your dog or cat decide to eat it, you can just use a bait station that will make it impossible for them to get to the bait. I will place a link below for the bait stations. The pesticides are all nontoxic to humans and pets after they dry. So, just keep the pets away from the pesticides while they are being applied. They usually dry in a matter of minutes. Also, keep in mind that you only need to treat the interior once. If you continue to treat the exterior every three months, then you will never have the problem again. Please trust me. I would not recommend any treatments that would be harmful to people or pets. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. www.domyown.com/bait-plate-stations-p-722.html

Yes. You should always use protective equipment when handling pesticides. I have a video on the subject that you should watch. A lot of folks do wear PPE, but they don't wear the right PPE or they do it incorrectly. Failing to do it right will also expose you to pesticides. I will place a link below for my video and I urge you to take the time to watch it. Great question. Thanks for asking it and thanks for watching. Be well my friend. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lOCzjbRlV3Y.html

Thank you so much. Sorry for the late response. RU-vid did not send me your comment. It was just luck that I happened to find it. Normally they email all responses to me, but they did not do that in your case. So sorry. I don't know why they left this comment hanging. Please let me know if you have any questions. Since I am having trouble getting your messages, please just email me at guysyoutube@mail.com. Please note that it's just "mail" and not "gmail." Be well my friend.

You can spray up the tree as far as you like. The higher the better. For maximum effect, I would treat the entire yard. You can do this with a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do it. You can use this same product to treat the trees and the house. It seems expensive, but you only mix it 1/3 ounce per gallon, so it goes a long way. This will kill any carpenter ants that are in your yard. No need to use a bait. Make sure that those flying ants are really ants and not termites. I have a video on how to tell the difference. I hope that helps. Be well Junie. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html Video on how to tell carpenter ants from termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-enJPS-h70Bs.html

They are most likely carpenter ants. There are about 60 species of carpenter ants in the US and about 24 of those species are known to cause damage in homes. Different species look somewhat differently, but they are all treated the same way. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

I assume that you are talking about pubic lice. If so, this is more of a medical problem than a pest control problem. It is typically spread via sexual contact, although it is possible to get it from just sharing a bed with someone. The lice require a human host to survive and do not live long away from the host, so getting these guys is generally the result of sexual contact. They do not survive on toilet seats or any other environmental surface, so pest controllers do not treat for them. Anyway, there are over the counter medications for them, but the best thing to do is see a doctor and get a prescription medication. The doctors may not suggest this, but I would shave off all pubic hair, since they do not do well in the absence of hair. After treatment it would also be a good idea to wash all bed linen as well, just to be safe. I'm sorry that I cannot be of more assistance with this, but this is just a bit outside my area of expertise. I hope that helps.