They make a sleeve to fit the front pulley's oil seal surface and since these are prone to leak oil, it is advisable to sleeve that surface. Easy to do. Great video thanks!
Awesome project. Looking forward to seeing it progress. That sleeve puller is nice. I got lucky on my engine and was able to knock them out with a wooden block.
UnitCrane514 Hi, I have a case 1835 with 183 diesel. I'm finding it very difficult to get the timing right. I followed your instructions in detail. The alignment with the dots and pointers also seem right. Is there any way to contact you? I need further assistance.
Well mad miller I’m doing to exact jobs you have done. I’m replacing a 350b clutch here in the next couple months and rebuilding a 188 motor to install in a 580c backhoe.
the pilot tube on the injection pump supports the gear. that shaft slides in and out of the injection pump thats why it has a spring loaded plunger on the end. that dot should be lined up with the idler pointer. Like i mentioned before check the webs between the liners for cracks on these blocks. very common. also crank thrust because every time you step on the clutch it forces the crank one direction and therefore might need to be welded up and remachined. your injection pump you can do yourself. all the shop will do if probably replace the pilot tube and reseal it. i did mine for about 60$ i think and a shop may charge 400+
I just hade same cover same motor and mine lined up dead balls put all back to gether was runing awsome tell i took the dozzer for maden voage and im geting colant in oil now so ill be able to pull the motor apart in my sleep when if i ever get it runing right
9:30 i'll bet whoever was in there last was told to offset the injector pump by 1 tooth to give more adjustment to compensate for gear wear. You rotate the pump to tweak it in, someone got the gears confused.
Did you have any cracks between the cylinder walls, from what I have been reading it is common for these to crack out at the top? Mine is cracked there and all the forums say that is common, but it doesn't pose a problem since it has wet sleeves and the head gasket will seat the top
fyi because you got your engine partially disassembled there is a hollow bolt that goes through the timing cover into the head. i wouldnt want to see you replace it with a standard bolt if it wasnt included with your parts. casefully look at your timing gears. mine were worn and I had to replace them to get it back into spec
+hammerdwn20 I just found the bolt in my bolt pile! However, I have a question. you say it goes through the timing cover into the head, but another video i found, he pointed out that the bolt was the last rocker-arm hold down bolt. any clarification? I'll have to review my manual...
Hi Mate I’m trying to pull the head of my g188d out of my 530ck backhoe here in Australia. I have all bolts out of the head and all bolts out of the timing cover that go in the head. How did you get the head off before removing the timing cover. Is there dowels going into the head from the timing cover? The head seems welded to the cover. It seems like the Hollow dowels in the block won’t let me slide the head back and forth and the dowels in the timing cover won’t let it come straight up. How did you get yours up or did you not have dowels in the timing cover? I would love any help you have Cheers
there are no dowels in the timing cover, but there are two in the block. did you remove the two nuts on the studs in the middle row of head bolts? those two studs thin down to 1/4" or so to hold the valve cover on. count the number of bolts and nuts you have, make sure it adds up. Im not sure but i think there are 19. after that, just try prying it off. it might be easier if the timing cover is off, there might be some sticktion between the timing gasket and head.
Hi mate 1st of all you are a legend for replying thank you. You were dead right there were no dowels in between the timing cover and the head. It was so stuck that I had to remove the timing cover anyway and now the sump as well as it’s connected to the timing cover and the dumps connected to the bell housing and now I’m in way deeper than I wanted to but oh well. Another fun game I’m about to play I’d remove the front end of the tractor as mine is the 530ck backhoe and the front crank pully won’t slide off the crank without hitting the front cast iron housing that’s connected to the front axle pivot and grill and loader arms ... I feel like dr Nic all I wanted to was a head and it’s all connected to everything including my wrist watch
+hammerdwn20 Head, block injectors, and pump are all gonna go out. I know i "could" do the IP myself, but they can check spring tensions, cracking pressure, flow test, etc as well. It's more money but they do a good job, i had the pump for my Ford rebuilt and i'm happy with it.
+UnitCrane514 Interesting point! (no pun intended.... har har!) i didn't realize that until you mentioned it. I think it is because that gear is just an idler gear. it's position doesn't matter, but the position of the cam and injection pump gear do. the pointer serves to bridge the gap between those two gears.
+UnitCrane514 I thought about it, but it's still winter outside, and i'd like to keep the machine rolling for a while. The Ford-A-Hoe project is right outside the shop to be worked on, the plan is once that's out of the way the crawler will be rolled up there, then i can take off tracks, finals/clutches/etc.
Sir. Ham lst case Kiloskar injan Ka foolkaamkiya hu. Salme masin70/75/digri garamhotahai Awr lod denekebaad, 2 ganteme 90/95/garmhotahai. Rediwaatar Niw fen Niw. Yaanike Har former karke dekha hai bimari pakarme nahi aatahai. Iska sujhawde. Awr ekbaatawrhai hedkholnekebaad balokme. Paanika gaelerime paani daalbese hedbootme paani aatahai hedbotme paani aanachahiyekinahi Iska zawab pilis sir digiye mae Bahot bahot parishanhu Awr sarmindahu god naight
We (my Dad) are trying to remove the timing cover to a 1978, 207 dozer but we cant get the 1/2" square drive nut off to remove the pulley and we're not exactly sure if it is clock wise or counter clock wise to remove. we have applied a large impact with some heat going counter clock wise to no avail ...Any ideas?
I stared at it for a while and concluded that i have no idea! It's been a while and i can't remember, but i don't remember having any issue taking it off. Sorry I can't help. I would look at which direction the engine rotates when running, and try turning the nut the same way.
