Caster / Camber Bushing Change in a F150 Alignment 

Those adjustable bushings suck, get fixed ones.

***** every vehicle are kinda different when it come to create a left pull to compensate for the road crown. a front wheel drive would be different than a rear wheel drive. a neutral alignment would be perfect on the perfect straight road (drag racing track for instance). some bmw or even the dodge charger ask for 1.0 degre + of left pull. i'm saying that for your particular truck. a minimum of 0.5 should be there to compensate for road crown. I found that 0.5 to 0.8 was the magic number especially for farming road when the crown is more pronounce. For tire pull. brand new tire can have radial pull as the tire is conic (you can't see that with your own eye). The process without road force equipment to find 1 tire pull would be to switch your right front and your left front side to side.If the pull switch side. bingo you've got 1 tire or maybe 2 tire causing the pull. THEN . you switch 1 front tire with is His rear tire and road test it again. If the pull is gone, the Tire you moved to the back is the one causing the pull. If not then you want to bring those two tire back where they were and do the same thing with the other side. Some people only switch the front pair with the rear expecting it's going to go away. but at that point you can't put the finger on THE bad tire. And you need to remember that you may have 2 tire causing pull. But the process to cure a vehicle who is pulling . is to set the vehicle to spec, make sure you don't have a car who pulls to road crown and then after chase a possible tire pull. on your truck there is also the radius arm bushing you may want to check,a s they get weak it cause he wheel to shift place under braking or under acceleration. In your case if you have the patience to swap tire like I suggest you. You may be able to cure by yourself a pull. I hate doing those at the shop as they take up to an hour even with air tool and hoist. your vehicle can take up to 3 hour in a shop to get the alignment done properly with solid bushing. once done with solid bushing, the only thing who get go wrong are rubber bushing going bad, hitting curb or weak coil spring.

I wasn't aware you had the truck on your alignment rack.

Oldsmob455 I am a mechanic/front end specialist. I know how to read the sheet you were given, and what you were describing.

This is where I'm stuck. Did you ever figure it out?

I'm not a fan of those adjustable bushings. When you get an alignment get the bushing closest to what you need

***** play in the steering wheel is in the steering gear box

frankenstrat25 Well I've had that checked and was told it's fine. Spent over 400 bucks now at 2 different shops and I'll just deal with the play I guess.

***** hmmmm thats the only thing that will give you play in the wheel. id just ask for a tighter gear box.

frankenstrat25 Loose tie rod ends, center links, pitman arms, idler arms, control arm bushings, etc. can add to steering wheel play. One can crawl under it and look while someone else moves the steering wheel back and fourth. This can reveal some of the culprits.

***** I've had this thing looked at by 3 alignment checks by 2 shops and a trusted mechanic who replaced my drag link. Told ALL steering parts are in good shape. Still have play. Was told I can't have the caster set where I want it because it's "not recommended".

1' 30" is 1 degree and 30 minutes. In degrees you degree, minute, and then seconds a example would be 1' 25" 35*

@@440cubicinch Thanks for the info, 440. Now we know why I don't take the new Iliad 70' that far from Lake Michigan: can't find my way back home by dark!

this old ass comment haha what did you end up doing ?

@@bobtailsthecat I did a 1” leveling kit which wasn’t enough to change my camber to an extreme angle and it aligned just fine

@@danscomprider thanks for getting back to me . i did a 1.5 inch leveling kit and now i have crazy positive camber

@@bobtailsthecat ya your only fix would be these offset bushings with will help for sure, I would say if you wanted a lifted truck or just something that sits higher just trade for a 4 wheel drive honestly 2wd suck when it comes to lifts, a whole lot of work for not a whole lot of difference.

@@danscomprider I already have four-wheel-drive it’s just when I did the leveling kit threw off the camber, but I’ve never done one of these bushings and haven’t seen anything online really about them

There might be one or two laying around somewhere

That one is an OTC brand

@@Oldsmob455 please if you could leave the model number Ive looked up OTC but cannot find the 2 jaw puller. currently redoing camber/ caster on a 93 I6 4x4. ive used every 2 jaw in the shop and still cant get it to work.

@@workenhard Appears to be in this kit: www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=OTC+7588A&qid=1571159878&sr=8-1-fkmr1

So happy I live in Florida. No rust mine came right out with a dull chisel and a hammer

raul camarillo si no les preguntas en ingles, dudo que te contesten

I didn't like the air bags, they eventually leaked. You want your plow A frame to sit level so when the plow is turned it won't be sitting all jacked diagonal. As far as the lift I'd talk to a specialist like Rough Country. A drop pitman arm or who knows what might be needed.