I actually did this on my B5 A4 one day then like a week later to it to the dealer. My front was .000 and .005, but they should have been toed in just a bit. I didn't have the specs and was just trying to drive straight so if you take your time this really is a good method! I don't think I'll ever take another car to get an alignment!
You incorrectly stated that as long as you measure at the centre of the rear wheels, it doesn't matter if they're toed in or out. That would only be true if the wheels pivot around that contact point. They actually pivot around the ball joints or other components. Simple way to prove my point: turn the steering wheel, and watch the distance from the string to the centre point of the wheel get longer or shorter.
Great video, thanks. Probably would be a good idea to firmly secure the steering wheel in the center position. When you adjust the tie rods you are causing equal force both ways. Force on the near wheel and force on the opposite wheel through the steering rack. That may affect the steering wheel position and the opposite side adjustment.
Indeed, I use the seat belt the wrap the bottom of the wheel or ask someone to hold the wheel. If the later I ask them once a while to move the wheel left and right and recenter to remove tire stretch and rack bushing compression
Learned something new about squaring it with the pipes. Only suggestion I have is to set the tires on two concrete pavers (1 ft x 1 ft). This will help to raise the car up to provide more clearance to reach underneath. For my grease plates, I made a sandwich of two concrete pavers and linoleum tiles with grease between them.
I did this several years ago on my 95 Civic after replacing the steering rack. I took it to a very well rated alignment shop and after they put it on the rack was told it was perfect! Bonus of no charge! Sadly the owner died a year or so later. Out of business.
Alex, one suggestion is to do this with the car sitting on 4 small pedestals or platforms. Some guys make those of wood (I have them by Race Ramps), that way if you’re working on a low profile vehicle you’re able to reach to the front suspension components for adjustment.
Only problem with those is that you have to jack up the vehicle to place the wheels on them. Which means that the suspension is altered, and you can't reset it by rolling the car back and forth. Sure you can jounce the suspension, but it's not as accurate.
@@LynxStarAutoI use a similar method with pedastals and it's fine. I even verified my alignment (more than once) with a shop laser alignment rig and it was spot on. Rolling the car is a nice idea, but completely unnecessary. And on a low clearance car you really have no choice.
I use a similar method only I made brakets with rulers to make it easier. I have taken my car to a local alignment shop afterwards a couple times just to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong, and I found if you are careful it is spot on. Most alignment shops will check your alignment for free or maybe charge around $25 just to put it on their rack and give you a print out. I do my own alignment because it is for a track car that I am frequently making changes and use custom alignment specs which is difficult and or expensive to do at a shop.
I paid $100 to an alingment shop to do my van. They told me it was way out but they fixed it. It drove like crap. It felt like I was riding on the outside edges of my tires. I spray painted several areas on my tire treads on both front wheels and drove 2 miles on a flat road and, all the paint was worn from the outside 3" of both tires, the rest had not been touched. Went to another alignment shop who asked if I had adjusted anything myself because my camber and toe in were way out. Charged me $100 to fix it and it drove fine. Now, I do my own aligments for free and it always drives well and tires wear evenly. I use the string and caliper method for toe, and a bubble angle gauge for camber. I have always done my own work except alignment, but now I do that too.
Alex is the real deal. An Old school mentality mechanic that really knows new technology. He really knows everything, but does things the right way. No screw ups. Explains all the processes. Mechanical, Electromechanics, AC, suspension. I mean the whole bid! Bravo!
I had a 91 Prelude si 2.0 4ws that I used to align myself in a very similar way to this. Kind of a PIA to set up but worked very well. Having turn plates would have made it a lot easier.
I've recently got my front end alingment done at a shop all rigged up however my streering wheel is slightly off i will utilize your method and see for myself. Big THX on this tutorial video and may the new year bring you and Family Good health and Wealth with the new shop and avocado farm 👌👍
I'm astonished that being 67yo and only having a vague notion of what toe in and toe out is let alone how to adjust it, I finally have a crystal clear explanation of what it it is and how to do it. Crystal Clear. Many thanks. PS Have you a description of camber, how to adjust camber, and how it effects toe in?
Camber is a measurement in degrees of how much the top your tire tips in (negative) out (positive) from the centerline of the car. On most cars (especially Hondas), it's not adjustable from the factory. Usually you have to purchase a kit that replaces a control arm with an adjustable length one, but that depends on your specific vehicle. Once adjustable parts are installed, and a measuring device is procured, adjustments can be made. Camber has a very LARGE effect on toe settings, so this adjustment must ALWAYS be done first.
Merry Christmas. Looking forward to the paint less dent repair on that car. TELESPAR tubing comes in long lengths with pre drilled holes. I've used it to build smaller jigs, it may work for a 4wheel alignment jig too.
I do something similar only I made brackets with aluminum angle material for each wheel and attached three small metal rullers (front, back, and middle). Makes centering the box and taking measurements a heck of a lot easier and faster. Then I mark the center position with a color sharpie, so if it moves you will see it immediately. I also attached the string to metal poles (like you used), you can drill holes but I also use a metal hose clamp on one end to get thd string width prrfect front to back. Then I use tie wraps to attach the poles to the jack stands. Then with the brackets rulers on each wheel you can just tap the pole with a hammer to get it perfectly square. All stuff from Home Depot for very little money and makes this method ten times easier, faster, and more reliable.
@@StrongerThanBigfoot Tried to post a reply with some picture links but it was quickly deleted. I don't get they way some messages are deleted for no apparent reason. YT sucks. If you want provide an email address and I can send you some pics.
@@ericmichel3857i believe that if you change the color of the text to the links, it will work. Id like to see what you've made as well, i have a vw cc that I've recently done a ton of work to the steering and suspension parts and an having a hell of a time getting it back driving straight.
@@schuylermorris5342 What do you mean change the color? They did show up as hyperlinks and were blue. These are just links to picks I posted in a flickr account. I could try deleting the www part? Or you guys can create an email account so I can send them direct. I will try posting with that part deleted from each link, if you don't see it after this, that means it was deleted again.
Jump on the jungle site, and pick up a steering wheel brace/lock. They're only ~$30. Then as you're pulling into your box, make sure the steering wheel is dead straight while you're seated in the normal spot and lock it in place. THEN do everything you said! Otherwise you could end up with an awesomely aligned car... and your wheel is cockeyed to one side or the other - and we ALL know how annoying that is!! You can't trust that the column lock will leave the steering wheel straight, and most late model units don't even have them anymore anyhow.
If you have a car with metric threads, the thread should go exactly 1 mm with one full rotation of the adjustment screw. Note that the adjustment changes the position of the ball joint, not the edge of the wheel, though.
Why do the jack stands have to be perpendicular to the pipe? As long as the two on the same side (passenger/driver) make the string the same distance from the wheel center then the stands on the opposite side (passenger/driver) of the car (passenger/driver)don't matter. What am I missing?
Strings are attached to the stands. Pipe on top of stands. Front to back has to be the same length on each side. Left to right has to be the same in the front and the back. 2 corners have to be 90 degrees (then the other will also be). If not, you don't have a rectangle.
When performing a _real_ alignment, setting the toe is the last thing you do, after getting the caster and camber correct. This is 1/3 of an alignment.
I use plastic PVC with premeasured cuts, the same distance on both. I always use fishing line over string. Because of the premeasured PVC cuts, I know the distance I need at each wheel from the fishing line and can set this up in 5min.
Hi bro, love your videos. Very helpful. I just replaced my 2 front tires 4 days ago with new tires, immediately after changing them my car steering wheel is not straight, I have to turn it left to straighten the car, I swapped left tire to right and now the opposite happened, I have to turn steering right to straighten my car. This problem wasn't before new tires.. Please help?? Also 1 of the new tires the guy at tires shop didn't clean the wheel before mounting the new tire and didn't allighn the yellow mark with the air valve..
this tells me you have a bad tire with high rolling resistance as it fallows the problem .the driver side is the culpert .the bead not being cleaned will cause a bead leak ,the marking may or may not be correct as the red marking takes precidence over yellow for high and low spots on rim and tire.
This seems otherwise okay but you should really do better measurements to avoid having parallelogram instead of a rectangle. That said, it seems that your method doesn't actually require a rectangle but a parallelogram should be just fine because you're only adjusting toe. True 4 wheel alignment should also adjust camber and possibly also castor, too.
Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 🤶 Ratchets and Wrenches On Christmas day 🎄 My teacher Ratchets and Wrenches PRODIGY Ratchets and Wrench Thanks for sharing what you know with us on Christmas 🎄 day ,enjoy your Christmas with all your family around you PRODIGY Ratchets and Wrenches From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
sure, its even easier on the tractor you don't have to square it inside the rectangle since its got solid rear axles. You just run a line parallel to the rear wells and do adjusting on the front wheel on that side.
Actually, manufacturers just prefer to buy hardware from China who uses metric. American engineers are trained to use both systems and won’t cry in the comments when we see one used over the other.
You can easily make the apparatus that goes on the front and rear bumpers using white PVC pipe from Home Depot. Use a metal conduit pipe across the front and back to run your string over. The bumper rig is what you need if you plan to turn your wheels in/out 20* for calculating the caster or verifying toe-out on turns (turning radius). When you turn the wheels out/in on the plastic (or slip plates) the car will shift away from your string box and your measurements will be off. You need the string box to be affixed to the car if you're measuring turning radius or caster.
Thanks for posting the mini series on alignment! Instead of sourcing a pipe like yours and other videos, I used some 2x4s sitting in my garage. 2x2s would have been better to sit easier on the stands, then I can use those pieces for a project in the future instead of having long pipes sitting around taking up room until next alignment in 6-12 months. Just saw a notch in the wood and feed the string through the notches. My old jalopy hasn't tracked this straight and handled this well in over 150k miles! You saved me from the adjust and go techs out there that apparently can't use their brains.
I made my own with a cheap laser level from harbor freight zip tied to a 1" square aluminum Pipe about 3 ft long. I put eye hooks at each end and hooked a bungee cord to it. I wrap the bungee around a back tire with laser pointed forward. I measure the laser from the center of each front wheel to determine if the rear is square. I then mark the laser dot on a piece of cardboard front and rear edge of the front wheels.I can check alignment in 5min. I store it in the trunk.
I cut long enough to reach across the tire but short enough to not bump into the body.I have used it on friends cars and it works. Remember this assumes the rear axle or control arms are squared up. Regardless,it will always track straight.
Hi Alex, Merry Christmas, huge hug to you from CDMX (México city). I appreciate your work and everything you do and achieve for sharing you wisdom and experiences. Blessings for ever to you!
Fun Fact: Even though I've been doing my own alignments for 12+ years, I just found out that camber-adjustments even effect your track-width measurements from the center-cap to the string. Apparently the track-width numbers from the manufacturer are taken at the contact patch of the tire. So tipping the wheel in & out will move the center cap closer or further away from the string. Really makes you think about string setup huh? I also found there is a rather drastic difference in camber angles and a slight difference in Toe angles after you put a driver in the car. On an TL, the LR & RR gained 0.1*. In the front, the LF gained 0.2* and the RF LOST 0.15* (all camber was negative). This makes sense if you think about soft rear springs and body roll from the added weight on one side. Camber change also caused 0.25mm of toe in on each rear wheel. This must be why TL's love to feather the rear tires. Now if I could just get someone to sit there for an hour while I make adjustments!
It would be so much easier to use whole numbers such as Millimetres. Forget fraction of an inch then it's simply for example 138mm front and maybe 142mm rear . So much easier. Anyway Im luck as I learnt both metric and imperial but I never use the old system now.
I appreciate all the effort that goes into making a good video like this. However, there's some mistakes in the numbers. I would flub the math on camera too! The spec. of +1/32" = +0.031". With +/- 0.031" the range is 0.0" to +0.062". That's 0" - +1/16". At 12:24 it was incorrectly stated that the spec calls for +0.013" +/- 0.013" so the high end of the range is +0.026". That was reversed. It's +0.031" +/- 0.031" so the high end is +.062". At 12:33 it was stated that the high end of the spec is +.026", which is an error. It's +.062". It got reversed from 62 to 26. If the total toe is +0.062" maximum, then the maximum is +0.031" per side. So at +0.03"+ it was within spec, assuming one can rely on a discrepancy of .001" with this setup, which is iffy. But I'd have called it ok as well. It wasn't 0.004" out of spec. Which I probably would have passed with this setup as well. We're splitting hairs here. Thank you for explaining your method. Between your tutorial and some of the helpful comments here, I learned a lot. I'll be attempting a 4 wheel alignment on my channel at some point.
Hi Nice video. Im in UK Any idea how to compensate road camber to make steering wheel straight? I'm alinghing wheels perfect and steering always facing a bit to the right because road camber. So annoying. I'm making left tyre pararel rear tyre and right hand tyre a bit 1 mm positive. Goes straight but wheel always a bit off to right.can you help please.