It looks like I might be the first to try this...rather interesting idea out. I believe that the lead is far enough down on the anvil that it won't dramatically affect rebound. Next video, I will grind everything down and make it pretty!
Отличная идея Эдвард, только в конце не нужно заваривать короткую боковую полосу, а в неё залить расплавленный свинец,а потом заварить полосу, по крайней мере удобней заливать,чем через маленькое отверстие...удачи тебе. A great idea Edward, only in the end you do not need to brew a short side strip, and pour the molten lead into it, and then brew the strip, at least it is more convenient to fill than through a small hole...I wish you luck.
Well, that is definitely a neat idea. I have done something similar, but I'm not sure if I would have thought of this. I have a small anvil welded up from plate steel. It's 5" x 5" x 5" with a small horn on one side. I filled it with lead bird shot. I use it for setting snaps of all sizes. It works great, especially if I couple that with a non-rebound hammer. But there's been a couple of times I wanted something bigger, and I really like what you've done. Let me know how it works, and I'd appreciate it.
If you could find a big enough piece of steel, you could make a horn and insert it in the gap between the two rails. It can also simultaneously provide the flat surface just before the horn that is about 2 inches long or so and is step down from the top face of the anvil. And the lead can be poured into the rest of the cavity so you won't have to make a box to hold it.
Nice man good idea! I just started smithing and I am waiting in 2 days I am getting some railroad track! Super exxcited! I subbed man! Keep up the good work!
Level surface. Place anvil on level surface upside down. Boxing metal for bottom ground till base edge level. Maybe??? while hot torch melt lead in the base and then weld the base plate (cut to inside opening) resting on lead surface. Squeeze out excess lead and use magnets to hold bast cap plate flush to bottom. Wire brush out lead in seams before welding. Alternate universe. Steal pipe matching the anvil base in diameter. Weld a stable caster wheel base to the pipe capping the pipe bottom. Cut top to height with anvil on it to a comfortable working level. Seated stool high for long use. Fill pipe with concrete and weld anvil on top or weld mounting bolts. Bolts better if a tire tread is under the anvil for noise deadening. Before painting weld cooling bucket loop and tool hangers on pipe surface.
I was going to suggest the very same until i saw you had posted above about rebound affect . Ony one way to find out if lead under the bridge will significantly dampen rebound. This is a very good project . Well done Luke .
Lead is not good for the body. Enough said about that. Now, how absorbable is lead??? That's the real question. The answer is "its NOT readily absorbed". The biggest single source for lead levels in the blood is by "ingestion". You can ingest significant levels of lead by eating after handling lead. The answer for that is simply good handwashing with soap after handling and before eating. Do that simple thing - wash your hands well - and there isn't any lead absorption. Another source is old paint. It had lead as a component. And the victims of lead paint were children living in old apartments who (for whatever reason), would eat that old paint. Tragic though that was, the answer there was "don't eat paint". Finally, one last ingestion source is the lungs. You can breathe in enough particulate lead to shoot your lead levels up. They discovered this when all the indoor parking attendants developed high lead levels. The lead in our gasoline was responsible. Answer here was two-fold. Quit putting lead in gasoline, AND provide adequate ventilation when using lead. That's it....... Lead isn't easily absorbed until it is molecularised (stomach acid, heat, car engines, etc.).
