Another great video! Reminds me of my Dad pulling the sleeves out of our RD6 Cat back in the late '50's. We were getting water into the crankcase and the reason was obvious. The seal surfaces in the block at the lower end of the sleeves had corroded letting water past the seals. I say "water" because we couldn't afford proper coolant. Dad used diesel fuel in the radiator during the cold Kansas winters and straight water the rest of the year. To repair, he coated the block sealing surfaces with Devcon plastic steel and smoothed them with a stone on a drill, reassembled and then ran for a few more years. Poor Kansas farmers.
After your "usual" clean up and checks this could be a strong engine for the future! A good video for the need to boil out engines with non removable sleeves. I am still impressed on how small the block is! Can't wait to hear it Hum!
Just started a Cat Apprenticeship... Got to do this for the first time and it's remarkable how simple the design is yet how effective! Change our sleeves makes life easier when it comes to rebuilds 👌
Squatch, I don't know who you are, but let me tell you …...you are AWESOME!! I never knew about the cylinders and how they get junked up with crud, but you showing how the sleeves are removed is a great learning experience. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid.
That's exactly how I remember my grandpa doing it when I used to watch him in his shop. One thing I never got to see him do was put them back in. Maybe he didn't want me there either because I'm guessing there's a fair amount of swearing involved in trying to get the o'rings to seat without catching and rolling. If your looking for another video topic itd be a good one for when the time comes. Stay warm and brace yourself for the storm they're predicting for this weekend!
We pulled the liners in a 1970s? D6 one time. We hooked up the puller on the bottom then the top was hooked to the 10 ton overhead crane. The tractor was lifting before the sleeve came out.
Glad they came out good and the block looks usable too. I thought it would. A lot of thought went into building those rigs years ago before all this pre-programed stuff. And as far as lubing up, back in the day of the 237 gold dog Mack engines there were a lot of blown head gaskets here. The main mechanic that came down here from West Virginia would re-torque the heads. He'd pull one bolt out at a time, oil it and then put it back and pull it back down. That was the last of the blown gaskets. I had a Rabbit diesel that was bubbling between the block and the head so I asked him if he thought the Mack deal would work and he said he thought so, so I tried it. The Rabbit book said to pull them to 90 or so and then 3/4 of a turn and not to re-use the bolts. I didn't have new bolts so I pulled the old ones to 90 and 3/4 of a turn after oiling and it ended being around 150-ish. I did that to all of them and no more bubbles. I remember that whenever I have to pull something down. Thanks, Toby! Hi to Pop as well and everything you do is good stuff, even feeding the heaters!
Wow that went so easy! I pulled the sleeves on a B-275 International and made up the same kid of set up. I tried it with threaded rod that was coarse thread and it could not handle it. I had to use a rod from a big puller we had with fine thread. I had to heat the sleeves and use a pipe on the bar. I was afraid I would crack the block but at that point it came down to do or die. I got to the point where I had one of the sleeves glowing I had to put so much heat on it. The worst of the bunch was the back cylinder. It was so full of crud and debris around the sleeve that 3/4 of the water jacket around the sleeve was full. After all the torture on that block it checked out just fine. Was quite incredible what kid of force it could take!
Fascinating....one thought about the sediments is typical as found in the old ford flathead V8. One of the many causes of the V8 overheating was found to be build up residues of the original casting sands. After casting the block design was such that pockets of sand remained inside the cast water jackets. Just a thought about this issue. Great videos and very informative.
You made my comment for me, most failures are found in the tail end of the block. Since the water pump is all the way forward the rear gets the crap and lower flow. A lot of the pony motor failures were overheating due that fact.
Well when you pulled the first sleeve I figured it would be full of crud but I was as surprised as you were number four was more like what I'm used to. Great job keep up the good work. I catch myself checking every day to see if you've added a new video.
I like to see this type of work....I done lots of gasoline engines and was always interested in how hard diesel was to do....I did a Continental six-cylinder also in an old Oliver tractor that had sleave....wish I would have had this knowledge at the time....got the sleeves done by a machine shop...I could have done them easy.....CHEERS
Yep used to pull sleeves out the big 650 Cummins engines when I was in diesel school fun times back then those pistons were huge looked like two one gallon paint cans stacked on top of each other
Enjoy your videos and learn alot from them.i like the old iron and working on them. My equipment is a 1940 ford 9n ,1969 580ckcase backhoe,78 gmc dump truck and am looking for a small dozer for upnorth property.
Damn, I didn’t know the sleeves would come out. I certainly didn’t know the sleeves had seals and the sleeves complete the water jacket. Who would have thunk it. Great video thank you.
That's why they're called "sleeves". They can be replaced if necessary. On engines that don't have a sleeve design, if one bore is really messed up, your only hope is to be able to bore out the cylinder to another level, which by rights, should have the same done to the rest as well, then you need times however many cylinders you have for parts and labor... whereas with a sleeved engine, if only one cylinder/piston is messed up, you only change out one sleeve and piston. First sleeve and piston job I saw done was a farmer whose B414 had run dry and overheated the lead cylinder. I was impressed that he only had to replace just that one, the rest were still quite fine. A few hours of wrenching and both he and his old International were back to work. He never had another issue with it after that, but he did replace the leaky water pump during the same job which had caused the loss of water and the overheat to begin with.
A trick when changing cooling fluid is to run a fill-up of coffee machine descaler and tap water and let it cool (like you would do a coffee machine). Removes scaling and rust and does not eat aluminium parts or water pump seals. Does this every 4'th year and my cooling channels are spotless.
Hi Nice video, on a 30-40 years old marine diesel with salt water cooling the cast iron turns to a dark brown material you can cut with a knife, a good old handmade thumbs up to you.
CAT sure did make things right and heavy duty back then. Even with all the gunk inside the block, the walls looked pretty good and the sleeves could have done double duty as morter launchers.
I've had to freeze liners to get them to break loose in Semi-truck engine blocks. Some Mack blocks are the worst I've dealt with because they are siliconed on the bottom of the sleeves. Setting deck protrusion also has to be done immediantly with those same sleeves because of the " set up" time on the silicone.
I used to work in a automotive machine shop and we removed 'dry sleeves' like the Ford 8N engines by making 4 verticle welds inside the sleeve let it cool to ambient temperature and the sleeve would normally come right out -assuming you didn't burn through the sleeve. With your knowledge you probably know about this.
Have you ever had to re deck a warped block? John Deere has a great setup piston and rings come already installed in the liners all you do is pop the bottom of the piston out of the liner put the pin and clip in and bang sleeve piston rings the whole deal goes in.
Great video. I have seen sleeve's pulled on some older Cummins. Today's stuff they say is better. I disagree with that. I like the older stuff. Mane because I'm old. Lol.
yes thats so true remember that today less is supposed to be more lol most of the shit produced these days wouldn't last 1/4 of the time that goes for cat also they have gone from a reputation for solid reliable equipment with excellent performance to mediocre at best certainly just one of the crowd not the stand out manufacturer of years past
Very useful video. I'm going to build a rig similar to what you have for future use. Question: how deep do you turn down the 3 and 11/16" diameter from your total 1-inch height? It looks like 1/2" but there is no spec on your blueprint. (0:39) Thanks.
5 лет назад
A litle bit of lube on the thread will be a good help 😉
So as these engines age , if the coolant was not maintained well it would seem to doom the water pump and started engine from all the rust and dirt ? Could they be power flushed to reduce the build up or would it tend to block the starter engine passage ?
