Professional roofer here: Everyone watching this, please remember this guy isn’t doing it correctly, the roof pitch looks too shallow & verges should be bedded not pushed mortar in with bits of rubbish here and there, this verge will fall apart in 5 years as there’s isn’t enough mortar in there. The video shouldn’t be followed for educational purposes & the chap doing the work should make this perfectly clear. Also there should be lead flashing fitted to the wall abutment at the top of the roof not cement layed on top of the tiles, any movement in the building & this will crack and cause a leak. Not to mention the batten at the verge shouldn’t be close to edge as it is in this video nor should the roof membrane be so close, all this will suck moisture through the cement verge & cause rotting.
Frankie , if you listen on the video I did explain that this is a temporary set up , it was the best cost option for us at the time, we had tiles left from another job, I didn’t want to spend money on a proper flat roof, also I explained that you would normally fit lead over the cement at the point of meeting the building, I can’t disagree with what say, the next chance we get to film a roof we will then you can see what we are about, the whole building will be flattened in the near future, many thanks for taking the time to watch and comment, Cheers from Old budd 👍
This is wrong but when bedding verges with a pan tile I do like to throw some muck down first, squash some broken tile in, then out more muck on top. Them pantiles can be a right pain to point up because the bed is so big. I find that helps
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I wouldn’t be able to live with myself doing work like that, them tiles should be bedded ,everything is wrong with the felt and under cloak, ,and that lead work at tops a classic??? But I must admit that it would make a great education video ,,for how not to do it
Quickest way is to take the tiles off then put your muck in then placing tiles back, so essy and simple, the tiles have more compression as well so it's stronger!
Just what I was going to say,bed the mortar high and then press the tile on,the times iv seen people bed the tile on then they scrape it back and point over another day only to find in a year it falls out cos its only half inch think
@@stevesmith3850 it takes a lot longer that way and it's less strength as theirs no compression from the tile into the muck! UK Construction industry has gone backwards in a lot of ways, power tools make workers look better than what a lot of people think
@@breadmanted As I've stated my way doing it you pack in as much compo as possible for the tile to be placed back down again, this way the muck spreads out and force the muck back in again with a gauging trowel how I do it then angle the muck flat to the cement board, muck has to be a little stiff but workable, I see loads of guys packing muck in without taking tiles off which takes them all day to do when it should be done in less than half that time, UK construction industry has went downhill big time, big guys earning huge profits off the working man, not enough older guys taking young people on and when they do they use them as labourers for cheap pay and don't learn them much! 10 years time the UK building workforce will have lost a lot of people and a lot of knowledge how to do things because of greed
The felt should go under the undercloak because the cement will now corroded it and now your mortar is set on a floating surface. The mortar should be cut to the underside of the tile and not up onto the tile face edge as it’s too thin, will crack and then open up the bed. Felt shouldn’t be going into the gutter too as it will rot out. The cement fillets at the top have been banned for years as the lack of movement and again will leak.
@@sorryrocco And here is the problem with builders - no two agree on method. How is the householder supposed to judge whether the person they're paying is doing the job properly ?
I've never seen anything like this in my 16 years of roofing, bed the verges, put a flashing at top edge, most importantly that roof is basically flat, board it and fibreglass, that's a leak waiting to happen
Liked & Subscribed. Can I ask why you put the broken bits of tiles in. Is it for strength or just so I can use a bit less cement mix ? Storm Eunice took my verge tiles off so intend to replace using your video as a guide. Thank you for making this video.
Great vid :) Are you in Suffolk? I'm in Sax and three big bits of the concrete recently fell out of the verges (of my 400-year-old house). Almost hit me cat! :O ;) One of the barge boards is a bit knackered too :/
hope you had a good Christmas, so your cementing the facia, so you got the roof tile, so whats the board called you've put under the tile to rest the cement on, i think they used asbestos board in the day, is it cement board. thank you.
meant to bed the verge then compress the tile down then point it off pushing cement in like that won't last plus your underlay should be under your cloak, plus the pitch of that roof you've used the wrong tiles or you need mor than 75 mil head lap
I hope that's your own property, if not there will be a very unhappy customer when the fillet cracks, the end tiles blow off in a moderate wind and the felt rots in the gutter. I would also question the pitch of the roof for the tile used.
Just to put you in the picture it is our own place and it’s just a temporary set up , we had the tiles spare from another project so we used those instead of a fibre glass or rubber roof, I did explain that it was only temporary and no lead as it’s not going to be there long, you are totally right in what you say, it is just a way to get to another point, really appreciate you watching the video 👍👍
Where to start? 1. Membrane should be under the undercloak not on top. 2. Where's the felt support at eaves level? No membrane should be be fitted into the gutter. Also the first course is drooping - I suggest no eaves ventilation has been fitted. 3. Nails? I can't see any nails in the top row, which makes me think there are no nails fiited at all. 4. Roof pitch? The roof seems far too low for a single concrete pantile. 5. You should not mortar into an abutment. There should be a dry abutment fitted and / or lead flashing
Only roof for that pitch is a flat roof, will leak like crazy with them tiles, why use a cement fillet on the back should be a lead flashing chased into the wall. Cement works nice but you are no roofer sorry
Absolutely shocking job 🙄 As everyone has already said, the tiles need to be removed and bedded and felt goes beneath the undercloak. Timber roofs move too and that is why we use lead flashings instead of fillets. Your cement mix is too dry too, won't adhere properly.
It’s working fine , it is only a temporary solution, we were going to flat roof it but we had some tiles left from a previous job, it just worked out a lot cheaper option at the time, but in answer to your question it’s working fine 👍
I can guarantee the verge will have cracks all over it as he didn't put a slight lip on the cement verge going under the side if the tiles, which makes the rainfall run straight into the cement and as I say causes cracks.
They are not the right type for such a low pitch, they were just some we had left of a job, and as it is a temporary building, it was the cheapest option, 👍 thanks for watching
This is how not to muck a verge! Take the tiles off then lay the muck then you put the tile on to the muck pushing it down for a nice bond, the way in the video will be loose and within a year or two
Nice neat job. Isn't it better to use flashing for the top of the roof rather or as well as concrete. If the concrete cracks or there is any movement, rain water is going to run off the wall behind the concrete verge?... Pro's educate me please..
Looks shallow pitch ? Lower than 15* and your in trouble also head lap of tiles wellout of spec. Max is 100mm your on at 75mm , lead flashing needed to be chased into render, that mucks blown already ibet , still the customer would think it looks good
007, we know , this building is only a very temporary building, we just used materials that we had left, when we get the chance to do a proper roof we will, thanks for watching 🤦♂️👍
Why have you got tiles on a basically flat roof and you bed tiles into the compo not pushing it in like that there's so much wrong with that I don't know were to start
Paul You totally right, but it is a very temporary roof, we used up some bits and pieces we had left, we could do the job ourselves, and we didn’t have to pay a flat roofer, it’s a means to an end, many thanks for watching 👍
Never seen anything like it 🤦🏽♂️. Bed the tiles! Whats all the broken bits of tiles going in there for aswell 😂. Also that pitch is to shallow for them single pans.
Oh good god. Roof pitch is way too low for them tiles. So there was never a need to use lead for flashing just use mortar!!!. Has this roof been replaced yet
Totally agree we did it as a temporary set up, as we had the tiles left from something else, it has 18mm ply underneath, but doing it this way was just so much cheaper and easier at the time, it did the job. Cheers for watching 👍
Wow just wow, the tiles are wrong for the roof pitch, that pitch looks about a 10 degree roof which should be a flat roof, and as for the cement I’ve never seen anything like this, wow
Don't you just love the comments from 'professional' roofers? Comments re felt, battens , etc are from people who've probably never been on a roof. As for the idea of lead flashing - from clowns who'd probably cut into the wall and slot it in with clips. How's that gonna work on roughcast? Chippies, plumbers, sparkies - whoever - no-one seems to know anything these days. They just do as someone who didn't know what they were doing told them. I've just re-roofed a centuries old barn and done it exactly as this guy has - except I didn't use felt. It was last roofed over a century ago and none of the disasters foretold by the 'experts' befell it.
