You are brilliant every aspect. Great Camera man!! Educational video starting from highschool students learning technology all the way to retirement and beyond. THANK you so much.
Hint for removing the cells. Once you have the pack on your workbench, before you remove the tan end-cap and after you're disconnected all the leads (the orange side attachment deal) turn it up on it's end cap and remove the 8mm/phillips on the bottom while the end-cap is still on. That way you can get to all the bolts underneath easily w/o risking dropping any cells b/c the end-cap keeps them all in place. On my battery, cells (from the connection end) 12 and 16 were bad so I just unbolted cells 12-28, laid the pack back down and then took off the end-cap.
the big question is how do you reattach the compression plate to compress the sticks enough so that you can turn the pack on end and re-attach the 8mm bolts to the bottom of the individual sticks?
Obviously they were tested. Diagnosing the cells in an operating vehicle is faster and more effective than testing them individually. Of course I had to much confidence in someone else's work but this video should really be redone with accurate helpful info.
Thx for taking time to show us, very instructive. I was expected to find out a connection at each stage of the battery for cell balancing. Apparently its not the case with these NiMh battery.
Reminds me of hot-swapping some hard drives lol Thanks on the clear video unlike most others. But I would recommend using a DC charger and to discharge each cells. Typically the HV batteries don't fail until >=2 cells start to die (from what I gathered). Plus then you can balance load the cells and make it stable (rebuild lasts longer).
I have a 2015 kia optima hybrid hopefully the schematics are similar thank you very much sir this was very helpful and interesting to learn from instead of paying $1000
Isn't it better to do a load test of the actual cell? Since some cells can measure the correct voltage but have weak power and drop to 6 volts more rapidly than others.
Ah, a good point at 12:50. Compress the battery so the holes on the bottom line up. Excellent video. Thank you. (edit, 3:20) Did you know that the compression plate is on facing the wrong way? The bottom tension bolts can't tighten that way unless you modify the plastic tabs coming off of the bottom of the plate. Att to viewers.
Excellent, it has been fantastic to watch your video extremely informative easy to follow and it has allowed me as a layperson to understand how the job can be done.
Great video and thanks for sharing your knowledge. You have saved me $1000 which is the difference between replacing a cell within the battery pack verses replacing the whole hybrid battery.
For everyone, it's pretty good video but if you service the battery you need to clean the corrosion off the copper connecting bars! this batterys sometimes fails only due to corrosion result in a bad connection so ALL WAYS clean the bars! good luck!
Thanks for taking the time to shoot the vedio, haven't done the fix yet but I will do it this weekend, so if the voltage lower than 7 volts it should be replaced.
The way to "properly" test batteries - is UNDER LOAD. The volt meter trick you did will get you the obvious cells to replace. Under load you might have several more.
The battery cells have been separated. no need to do a load test. unlike the batteries which have only a positive terminal and a negative terminal, these are cells that cannot be tested separately. thats where you do a load test on a battery. you cannot do a load test within a cell. A cell that cannot carry a load up to its required voltage is deemed a bad cell.
eventually everything dies including us... (but better to keep the original part as long as possible.:))...as long as a battery pack is relativity well balanced it wasteful to throw away cells with plenty of life...and it worth a trying to bring back cells with voltage drop back to life too as back up when the next cell fails...
great work! one thing I noticed that the orange plastic strip ( which is actually harness) has corrosion at one end ( greenish) , did you not replace it. On 1st generation prius I used to replace both side harnesses at the dealership due to corrosion.
Jzk brother I will change my soon. My scanner say code P0A80 replace battery pack, along with p0319 block 9 weak, and p0320 block 10 is weak. Replacing the cells which are bad will work?
There are many factors in battery reconditioning. One resource I found which successfully combines these is the Magic Mender Wizard (check it out on google) definately the no.1 info i've seen. look at this unbelievable resource.
i have problm with my prius that all cell show differnt voltage like that 7.45, 7.37, 7.23 and only one cell show 6.93. please help me which cell i will change? and how can i balance the madule?
Do you know if it is possible to create an additional battery to increase the size of the battery and almost turn the Toyota Prius into an almost electric vehicle?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO IS WHAT CAN YOU TELL ME BLOCK 9, BEGINNING TO COUNT FROM ECU (COMPUTER OR DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER OR THE CONTRARY, IT OR THE POSITION OF BLOCK 9? THANK YOU
What make and model are the individual cells? I have a 2010 Lexus RX450h which I believe uses a Panasonic Battery, do they use the same calls? and where can they be ordered from?
Each cell needs to be load tested to find the bad one. I just attach a 12 headlight and time the cell with a load on it for 2 minutes with a multi meter.
Mike T I think he means measuring a battery when it is floating no-load doesn’t give a valid measurement. Because even a weak battery may measure good in that case. But if you put an electric load on the battery ( give it some work to do ) by attaching a light bulb - then the battery voltage measured is valid / useful.
For how long you suggest to put a 12 volts bulb for checking the battery? I started the procedure and giving 6 minutes to each cell with reading before after and again after six minutes. Just want to know what if I connect three 12 volts bulb in parallel in order to save time?
Dr Shakir, I don’t know the Prius battery specifically to give an exact answer. But I will say, in general, that the more current is drawn then the heavier the load placed on the battery. Yes the load would be increased with more bulbs in parallel. It would also be increased if the wattage of the bulb where higher but it’s voltage were the same ( Watts = Volts * Current ). Having said all that, I think your current method is fine because the voltage measured is not a float voltage because you have a load attached. How do the voltage readings compare between the first and second readings? ( Also no need to keep a heavy load on the battery for too long - as doings so could be stressful to the battery. )
My hybrid battery failed yesterday. I called Toyota of America this morning. They took all my info and said that they didn't sell any parts at their headquarter and referred me to contact the local Toyota dealers directly. I did speak to the dealer b4 calling them and wad told 5k for a new pack. Please advise. Thank you.
Hi Iman Did you have to balance the units? How is your battery performing now? Did you have any problem since you have changed the cell? My gen2 battery didn’t show the dead signs yet, but time to time suddenly battery level drops fron 6/bar 3 bar and takes ages to recharge. is this a sign of nearly dead battery? Should I make attempt to replace the cell? Or should I wait? Any suggestions please. Thanks
I know just enough to be dangerous, What u described is most likely due to 1 or more of the cells being out of balance ie starting to go bad and causing more resistance. Replacing bad cells will help the other cells last longer since they will to be easier to balance. And even be more efficient since the BMS has to drain off energy to keep cells in balance when cells r dying. But it not easy, so its up u to determine when it worth the effort. And changing each cell individually is most effective for an older battery pack since BMS r never perfect, Hope this helped more than just being confusing,
i to just bought a 2011 chevy silverado hybrid and i have a code P0BBD (hybrid battery pack voltage variation exceeded limit) Not sure if it means to replace the entire pack or i can do this and replace the ones that are bad, hopefully its just one i need to change. I also have AP0AC4 code (hybrid pwertrain ctrl mod requested) not really sure what that is but im hoping your informative video helps me fix my truck. thank you sir
Hello, do you know how to count the blocks? I got block 12 weak but is it from the battery and away or from the other side towards the battery help please!
You might as well replace the whole battery after 10 years . You just going to have to keep replacing individual cells. That’s about the life of the battery. They probably shouldn’t be in the sunlight either
@@tcolondovich2996 Offering battery replacement services to hybrid owners is one way. Although I wouldn't ever charge 3k for such a thing. I'd only charge 1k.
Only defective modules can be found via the voltage. With a capacity measurement, weak modules can also be found. These weak modules are among the first to be broken the next time. I found a 7.4 volt module with only 1800 mAh. Normally old modules (year 2007) have approx. 5500 to 6500 mAh. Here you find the way to check the capacity of your cells: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g5KAPge-f6E.html
Nice video :) Can i have a question? Don't we need to balance the whole battery pack? As i know we need to, because if the individual cells are not on the same charge levels, some cells could get over/undercharged. Sorry for my bad English!
That's a good question. Actually, you need to buy a used battery cell b/c the new one always has higher charge level but the used one is in the same charge level. Also, make sure to test all the charge levels to make sure they are almost the same. Good luck!
This problem mostly occurs when you have one or two bad cells. Basically, you need to check all the cells to make sure that all of them are in the same voltage level. Just like the steps that I showed you in this video
Interesting video (was expecting that) But i couldn't stop thinking: Touching a charged HV battery (even with disconnected elements) like a maniac, without gloves, by a water puddle. What can go wrong ? Remembered my younger days when i was adjusting HV and Focus on powered-on CRT monitors (just a 15 kV voltage for the the tube grid - you quickly learn to not be so touchy touchy with live hardware) :D
It's interesting to see how much smaller it is than the first generation prius battery and more interesting still to consider that the small 1KWh capacity of this battery could be provided by a quantity of Tesla cells about the size of a loaf of bread. Energy density keeps going up, price keeps going down.
Good job, I measured the voltage for each cell and they were between 8.5 - 8.7 volts. Except no. 35 was 6.8v. What can I do to control the Over-charging?
