I've now seen 5 of these videos (went down the rabbit hole after the big Subaru guy said you need a zillion dollar diagnostic thingy) and yours is hands down the best! The camera angles are terrific and we can actually see what you're doing and you provide more detailed, basic, educational info for us car ding dongs who have never done this before. Also you explain why you do things the way you are. You're a great teacher!
the EPB will retract the caliper, all you need is a 12v battery and 2 jumper wires. Look up "Homeowner Repair", he does it the easy way without damage to the EPB.
Nice!! Just did mine last weekend as well (including the rotors). A few "optional" things include: 1) open the fluid reservoir and place some shop towels (just in case) as you rewind the piston, 2) apply some brake grease where metal-to-metal contact occurs, 3) easier to bolt the bracket first then insert pads. Now I need to get to the fronts 🙂
I watched a few of these vidoes and yours was the only one I could find that covered the turning of the piston to open the gap. Awesome job Bro. thank you.
Great video. One thing I’d like to mention. You can replace the springs if you feel better about it but claiming it’s due to heat is false. These clips don’t see very much heat being outboard of the caliper in open air. To change the composition of the metal the clip in question would need to be cherry red.. simply doesn’t happen. I’ve studied brake temps with similar setups (Mercedes) and the described phenomenon simply doesn’t happen. Kinda like how people say “my rotors are warped”. This is a myth and has been debunked by companies like StopTech, Brembo. Street rotors get uneven brake pad material buildup up which produces brake chatter. Other than the above mentioned items you did a great job of explaining what you were doing. Cheers 🍻
@@nofeerz I can tell you which I used but can't say whether or not I recommend them cause I don't know jack about brake pads haha, but the brand was Import Direct.
great video and instruction! i’m about to use your guidance on a 2018 outback limited 2.5. mechanic told me i’d have to use a computer to retract the caliper and back once new pads are on. is that not the case or does your method work fine?
No computer needed. I've got a '15 OB and i've done the rear brakes at least 3 times now. Simply unplug the PB and screw the caliper back in till it bottoms out...then use the brake tool or clamp to give it a final push (for complete retraction)
I did our 15 and 16 OB and no need, especially if you have a caliper tool. Another trick, which my buddy used for his newer Forrester, is using a 12v battery with electrical wires, then connect to the harness in "reverse" - you can actually see the piston retract if it is connected correctly in reverse polarity (but again, no need).
Thank you for this. Immediately after I completed the brakes I got a check engine light. An OBD2 scanner showed error U0073 but I managed to clear it using the tool. I assume the error occurred because I had disconnected the EPB, but I'm not sure.
It takes a lot to change the rotors, so unless you have been grinding for a while, have large scored grooves in the rotor, and you have a ton of vibrations when you brake, then you dont need to change them. Yes, I did the front brakes within the same time frame too. Just to keep things even in timing.
There are also some sliding parts you can grease (obviously be careful to not get on the pad). That can cause the squeaking. And also sometimes rocks get caught and can do that.
@@The-DIY-Guide I'd argue against this - the conventional wisdom I've always followed is that used rotors will accelerate the wear on your new pads because of rust and less obvious damage. If I'm going to the effort of doing the pads, I am just going to replace the rotors as well. I'm already saving myself a boatload doing it myself.
