Very interesting Craig. I watched another you tuber showing "the proper" way to restring, and he was wrapping the coils over and under on the tuning pegs, swearing it's the "only way". I've been restringing wrong for 50 years apparently...pretty much the same as you! Even i can hear the difference in the back-to-back at the end...quite a contrast!
Hi Andrew. I too used to wrap the strings around the post in all kinds of ways when I was younger. Seeing this d'addario representative demonstrate it seemed almost alien and too simple to work, but it is the way that I have been doing it for many decades now. It just works.
Interesting, I just replaced the strings on a Craig Williams dreadnought after 2 months. I thought that was a short run! I (very) reluctantly went down a gauge from 12s to 11s, because my fingers are soft 😂, and expected to lose out in terms of tone, but actually, it just took on a slightly different character, possibly like the sound even more! Still plenty of volume and bass, and I can play for longer now 👌
Two things. 1. You missed out the part where I mentioned Plectrum strings and how much easier it is to play with them. Unfortunately, I didn't realize the camera was on pause when I thought it was recording. 2. Remember that your guitar neck has not been glued on yet and I can easily lower the action quite a bit if you want. It's good to hear that you are toughening up those soft office fingers.
@craigwilliams6145 I hadn't heard of them before, I'm using Elixir phosphor bronze nanoweb, coated ones. I'll give the Plectrum ones a try next time. Action could go down a touch, but no hurry for that. Is there any reason to glue the neck? Taylor don't do it...
Thomastik plectrums are expensive, but I think they are the best strings out there. Unfortunately, they only last a very short time. Taylor has a very good system that allows them to easily place shims between the top of the guitar and the fretboard to keep the fit nice and snug. Hopefully my guitars fit snuggly by design but sometimes a bit of glue on the fretboard tongue can help with recalcitrant guitars. Sometimes the fit can change during the first 6 months or so as it settles in to becoming a guitar instead of a tree.@@user-jv6sp9mk9q
Nice Craig 😊 I started my first build now I have a few questions my top is engelman spruce and I did sand it till 2,1 mm and it could be 1,9 mm plus final finishing it could be back to 2,1 till 2,3 mm is it bad for MD top?can I contact you for more info thanks
Hi Bernard. Great to hear that you are building your first guitar. It's a fascinating experience that you learn a lot from. Most guitars from Martin, Gibson and Taylor have a top width of about 3.0 mm for spruce as they don't want to see the guitars back for warranty work. This makes them less likely to buckle and warp in the future, but results in a less dynamic guitar. Most of my steel string guitars have a top thickness of about 2.4mm to 2.6mm for sitka spruce. Engelman spruce tops that I have used have been about 2.6mm to 2.7mm as it is not quite as stiff as sitka. I think your top is probably a bit thin for a steel string. You can improve its stability by 1. Using taller braces. e.g. I use about 17mm x-braces at their highest point. You could use about 19-20mm at the highest point, 2. Use a slightly thicker bridge plate. For maple try 3.3mm instead of about 3.0mm for the bridge plate 3. Use light strings .011 when you string it up. In future builds I would not go less than about 2.5mm for a spruce top for steel strings. My nylon string classicals are closer to about 1.5mm for the top but they have nowhere near the amount of stress that steel strings do. Good luck with the build. Feel free to ask, If you have other questions that I may be able to help with. I also have quite a bit of information in the "Spooky" guitar build series.
