I had someone hold the bike level so that I made sure to get the correct amount of oil in, but measuring it sure made it easy and I was positive that I put in the correct amount that way. I hope this helps.
Finally, a proper way to do this. The syringe method seems way better than just a guesstimate direct pour. The syringe a measurable method. The direct pour is a best guess method. Me being in nursing school and having to draw up medications using syringes and being an owner of a Honda Shadow, this video helped me greatly lol If it weren't for this video, I'd have had a strong hatred towards these types of drive systems. But seeing the syringe method is doable, I think I'll keep my Shadow for awhile longer.
Reply to mattatwar, Due to your security setting I am unable to reply directly to your comment so I posted my answer here: The fluid level is about 2cm from the top on the side stand when the correct amount is put in. Hope this helps, Happy riding.
According to the manuals it should be checked every 8,000 miles and replaced every 24,000 miles, but I don't think it would hurt to do it more often. Hopes this helps.
usually just fill till it just runs back out fill hole is always a good method to insure its full on any rear assembly trucks cars and bikes I have and do fix all three and then some and no wore thing than negative bs comments only make the commenter look as dumb as they are I thank you again for the video
I guess my only question was since I didn't look too closely on my bike..where the lower hole was..but I see its a metric allen wrench tiny hole...mid 80's nighthawk.
Thanks for posting. This is very helpful.I noticed that the old oil was very dark, and that you did not use any additional cleansing agent to remove any residual dirty oil before adding new oil. Is this common practice, or would you recommend flushing the final drive before adding new oil?
In all the manuals that I referenced there was no recommendation to use a cleansing agent. Perhaps they feel that most(or enough) of the old oil has been removed? Either way I change mine way more often that recommended just to be safe. Thanks for watching and happy riding.
my cap got stripped as well and a 17mm wrench is causing more damage to it - i am thinking i will hve to go get some channel locks like you did to get this thing off.
Hi I have a 1996 honda shadow ACE 1100cc. I don't have the manual but do you think it would be similar measurements of final drive oil? also what would be the engine oil measurements I can't seem to find trusted information on the internet. Thanks
Lol well, that's more of a basic hardware principle. Every bolt, nut, or screw has a tensile strength. Look up general torque specs on metric and sae per diameter of the bolt... For me being a tech student I have a clipboard with that on the back. I've also torqued a lot of dumb shit so I can feel the difference between 12 in lb and 2 ft lb on the same diameter screw. You never want to under torque things for fear of them falling out and you never want to over-torque because it could snap or break past the elastic limit. In some applications to measure torque values they use a micrometer to see how much the bolt as stretched.
Hey Bob, I have a 1993 Shadow VT1100C. I have a problem with 0% pressure in the clutch master cylinder (lever pressure) after bleeding the line. The system has been flushed and is now empty of any fluid. How do I replace the hyd fluid back in and gain needed clutch pressure? Does the master cyl need new seals? 54,000 miles on ODO
Are you referring to the clutch or the master cylinder? If your clutch has no pressure then check the cable. If that is OK investigate inside the cover when the cable enters the case. Hope this gets you somewhere. Thanks for watching
No, on the Shadow it's a hydraulic clutch system. Can the lack of pressure be due to the piston seals in the lever cyl under the reservoir? One other question please: The hydraulic fluid has been drained completely, how do I restore it, is it by lever compressions and oil in res.?
My 2004 Sabre took about 7.5 oz if I fill it to the bottom of the fill hole, with bike on side stand. Manual says 4.4 oz. and to fill to bottom of hole. Which is correct. This is quite a big discrepancy. Not like Honda to be that far off on a specification. Any thoughts guys?
Interesting. I just drained the hypoid on my 2003 Shadow Sabre, and I collected about 7 and a half ounces of old fluid. I haven't refilled it yet, so not sure how much it'll take to reach the bottom of the fill hole. When it's on the side stand, do you have the handlebars cocked full left, or right?
@@TyBower I keep the handlebars full left. And for what it's worth, I filled it to the bottom of the drain hole (ignored the manual). It took about 7.5 oz., and I had no problems with it. I probably drove it a couple hundred miles after filling it, and like I said, no problems.
+Arikan Ektirici The recommended interval is every 24,000 miles, but if done correctly I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to do it more often. Thanks for the question. Happy riding
Does it happen at high speeds? Are you using the correct lubricant? Does it have the correct amount of lubricant? Many factors could have an affect on oil blowing out the vent tube. It's really hard to tell without taking a look.
I read forums telling me i should lower the capacity alittle , that might help ....tommorrow should be warm , im going to take a ride and see what happens , now that i lowered the fluid level
Critical - do not torque this fill cap upon reinstallation. I did thinking it was solid metal but it is not & torqued it to 20' lbs which caused it to crack 😔; that Gods blessed me by having this particular 38-year-old part available for my 1984 Honda Shadow vt700c after part number lookup verification on Amazon for $14🤗. When I get the replacement with gasket, I'm going to apply a small layer of loctite blue on the threads & snug it up as he did.
funbro1 I think he's referring to a common practice a lot of 4x4 guys have learned the hard way. We always loosen the filler cap first just in case it is stuck or strips or breaks by chance. If you drain all your fluid from the bottom,, then you can't get the top filler but out you may find yourself stranded, unable to drive the vehicle till that top cap is dealt with.
I guess but we will never know for sure...no reply from Rob H. Thanks for your insight on the topic. Makes sense for a 4x4 but may not apply too much here. Thanks for watching.
Trust me it hurt me too but when the correct size socket starts to round off the aluminum you have to use the channel locks. I’ve had to replace the caps before from using a socket or wrench. Thanks for watching.
You are brave to remove the bottom screw first hahahahahahahahaha. was the one abouve stuck, you would have been in some situation you did't wanna be hahahaha
