Changing out the gear oil in the power unit (transmission) with NLGI Grade 2 grease in an antique Maytag Model 30 Wringer washer. This machine is specifically a Model 30WP (with water pump).
I just purchased a model 30 and wanted to test if it worked, it agitated with no water and then when i tried running it with the tub filled it stopped working and now seems to be jammed. Any pointers?
Maybe give John Deere Corn Head grease a try next time. It's a light grease which liquifies when worked so it gets into all the bearings and bushings, which ordinary grease can't. I use it in antique outboard motor gearcases and it is thick enough to not leak out a shaft which doesn't have a seal on it. Whenever I get around to working on my old Viking (Inglis) washers, the JD Corn Head grease will be used instead of gear oil like I used the last time. Like yours, it drips out and leaves a puddle on the floor.
Glad to have found this. Just picked up a pair of 30s or As and need to do some lil repairs, kinda hard to find repair data on these. Was able to test run 1 of them today, love it :-)
I need to service the gear box on my 1933 Maytag washing machine gear box it's seeping a little. On others I have fixed I use a brand called Green Grease. Very glad you mentioned to viewer's about the spacer washers. That fit on the clam shell is critical. I learned that the hard way on the first one I restored. It locked up because I used permatex rtv silicone for my gasket which is huge mistake and i do not advise anyone else to ever use any kind of liquid gasket on these. Thankfully no damage was done. Pulled it apart and I used clay to determine the gap when I fixed it. I cut the gasket out of some fiber gasket material of the correct thickness and no problems with that machine. I was told recently by a retired maytag repair man who is in his 90s that the grease Maytag originally used contained whale oil and will last forever. He said as long as the original grease it is not water contaminated just add some lubriplate grease to the original grease, fix the gasket, and it would be fine. Great stuff here and some gorgeous machines.
Today I picked up a better sized belt for the model 30 from an auto parts store and also lubricated the electric motor with 3 in 1 oil by the wd-40 company..I don't know if the two 3/16" in. oil ports at each end of the motor originally had plugs or caps .Anyways it did very well running off grid on the small battery bank.
You are right about the spacer washers under the housing of the power unit. Took mine apart today and yuck. Old tarlike oil substance sticky like molasses. The old cork gasket crumbled. I will clean this unit out tomorrow. Im wondering if part of the reason for the spacers was not to crush the cork gasket too much.I want to use this washer on a regular basis to wash my work clothes and figured that it should be taken apart and lubed correctly..I suspect it would have worked ok without doing this but for how long. Working on this washer is very satisfying..I would not have attempted this without your video..Thanks, David (Tina's husband)
brad, I just bought what I believe is a Model A Maytag, and my question is: on the worm gear of the power unit, there's a cap that's held into place with that set screw, does that gauge end play? like a dummy, I loosened the set screw. is there a spacer washer in there? I haven't had mine apart yet, but after a few seconds of running, it binds up, but I can turn the pulley back wards by hand, and if I go the right way by hand, it gets tight again. thank you for time. -Cody
Magnificent tutorial on the breakdown, working innards, proper reassembly instructions, and critical tips on these great old machines. This clip gives me more confidence in tackling my Model A and Model 30W when I can devote some time to them.
