I LOVED IT!!!! WOW what an amazing video! 2 true masters sharing knowledge and love for sharpening! Great job Mr. Stalney and Mr. Carter. Maybe next video throw a pocket knife in the mix. Thanks you!!!!👏👏👏
Looks like really really good stones and the base i just love with the stones just clicking into it and being so secure. Samme with the flattening plate with the groves so they dont stick to the stone. As i said in my mail ive sent you would love so much to test this sharpening system 😁
I joint straight razors at the 1k to 3k grit range ( JIS grit scale) after that I do a few light laps on the 1k to bring the apex back. Then I from that point on, I am only polishing the flats of the bevel planes and (refining the width of the apex) cheers.
That means every single time that knife needs to be sharpened, they will do thinning. Over time won't the secondary bevel become too thin and weak? Further, many non-Japanese knives are flat from spine down to the cutting edge without any additional secondary bevels or angles - will they only sharpen the primary edge in those cases?
I think some moderation is called for. I think follow up re sharpening should take into account how much, if any, thinning is needed. One one the major problems is that most people tend to increase the bevel angle with each sharpening. Thinning is necessary to fix that
I commented on the previous video but I'm just confused if it's always necessary to thin? What if you don't want those grind marks on your blade? I mentioned a takeda for example and it just doesn't seem like you would need to thin a takeda, or even able to with the finish they have. It would ruin the finish of the knife.. also something like a kurouchi or a mirror polish for example, I just don't understand how any knife can be put on the secondary edge like that and be grinded on a diamond grit.
That’s a great question, you are correct that repeating and maintaining the makers look is not possible after thinning in many cases. So the question is “what is the purpose of this knife “. If it’s a show piece then you don’t want to thin it or even use it really. If it’s an everyday tool, then thinning is necessary and the look will evolve as the knife wears. There are options for creating a look that you like along the way. Remember, most of these knives are made for export. Most Japanese craftsman use the plain bimetal versions of these knives everyday. You don’t see much pattern metal in use in Japan. Thinning is part of everyday maintenance
They are actually called "SAMUE" not Kimonos. They were garments designed for Buddhist monks to wear while doing chores in and around the temple. Sorry! we love Japan too much :)
HI Gatrie, actually they are not Kimono. They are "sa gyo gi" or "craftsman's wear". Murry and I are very comfortable in them as we both apprenticed in Japan for many years.
Never thought I'd see Murray Carter lapping stones after 30 seconds of use or removing that much material off a brand new knife. I lived in Japan for 9 years. I still spend a month every year in Japan visiting my wife's family. I understand you need to market these products but this is too much. The products are good enough on their own, they don't need this.
Hap lived in Japan for 12 years as an apprentice to a lacquer. (Okotoba wo kaesuyoudesuga :) He has a Japanese wife and Japanese relatives too. Coming back US and starting a new business was hard for him. Polishing is his thing.......
@@NanoHone I can appreciate that! We moved back in 2015, it wasn't easy transitioning! I simply think these stones will sell on their own merits. I own them. They feel incredible. It feels from these videos like in order to use the stones, we have to buy a $300+ flattening stone. Even if you're polishing, which I do a lot of, flattening so often is just wasting material in my opinion and the stones don't need it. I think you'd sell more stones if you relaxed the marketing of the flattening stones. They're super expensive and it's going to be an immediate turn off for people when they see that number. Not to be argumentative but I can't understand the need to remove that much material off a new knife. It just also seems like unnecessary marketing that will throw people off. I've got dozens of knives, literally, that I bought at the makers shop that come with no edge. I've never had one tell me, you need to now remove material from the entire secondary bevel in order to achieve your desired result.
@@JeffSmith-eq3kc Hi Jeff, Hap here, please forgive my slow response. Thank you for using my stones, we really appreciate it. I feel that lapping is really critical to maximum performance from any stone. Not just to flatten but also to clean metal out of the pours in the surface of the stone. I learned this from my lacquering teacher in Japan 30 years ago. We polished the lacquer with stones and constantly cleaned them against one another. I also learned the utility of a flat stone surface. It made lapping flat surfaces much easier. The better the surface of the stone, the crisper the facets you could shape. So, for me lapping is an integral part of sharpening. So, yes, I believe a really good lapping plate is essential. And, further, it will make the learning curve for beginners much shorter because they don,t have to learn to compensate constantly as they sharpen
I'm ready to move onto bonded diamond abrasives. I'm considering these and I'd like to know more. What makes these more suitable vs say the other commercialized "mass market" though niche no doubt bonded diamond abrasives for consumer market like Naniwa diamond or the Russian Venev. I have a large collection of traditional abrasives, also have 1 nanohone item the 200 grit which was expensive vs say the 120 or 220 SP but a product worth considering you have the right needs no doubt. I'm leaning Naniwa because I am very familiar with their products and a fan but like the Chosera line, they don't really make anything below that 400 grit level, which is where Nanohone always comes in for me anyway. Are these more designed to cater to woodworking tools? How friable is that binder you are using vs the others? I assume it's softer, therefore more friable and likely cuts faster and with better feel at the expense of shorter lifecycle. I'm okay with that, I just want to understand what I'm gonna go spend about $400 on.
Hi Jeff, thank you for considering my abrasives. Friable is a tough word to apply to diamond resin from any manufacturer. Diamonds stacked on top of each other and incased in resin are very resistant to rubbing. Even with a softer binder. The softer binder helps with pulling diamond out to flatten the surface but it’s still slow. You have use a big diamond to kick the little diamonds out of the resin. That’s the down side of DR. The up side is they are very clean to work with compared to ceramics. Only a tiny amount of water is necessary. And, most importantly they will cut really hard steels.
