It started @16:20: To hear that person say "exactly" with such arrogance boiled my blood. I would like to congratulate the instructor for keeping his cool. I could not work with a person like her. Awesome instructor! Great job!
😂😂😂😂😂That’s Miss Ward! I don’t know her, but I know her voice! It caught me off guard too, initially. Then when I realized who it was, it all made sense. Not sure of her overall knowledge base at the time of this video…but she definitely knows her sh*t now…for sure. I follow her channel. She’s pretty sharp and thorough…
Thank you for the lesson! 3 weeks ago after a *long overdue* time I defrosted my boat freezer, after which it didn't cool, so I spent $30 on a meager r134a refill kit with bpv. As soon as the freezer reached it's freezing temp and switched off, it didn't cool again. So I determined it had a leak. Last week I watched the video, and spent 170 on a pump and triple hose gauges and halogen detector. I have a ruptured line somewhere inside my freezer, probably frost that damaged the line in conjunction with salt air on my boat. I literally have to destroy the freezer interior to get to it, to attempt to fix it.... But, it is a lesson learned. A possible way to fix and recharge fridges in the future and being able to get to shore when I cross oceans. I ordered a new freezer this morning. But I'm thankful for the lesson learned. Being on a sailboat you must be an electrician, navigator, painter, waterproofer, diesel mechanic, outboard specialist, carpenter, generator technician and so much more all at once while discovering the blue world. Thanks again for your help for the community. Chris SV Seafari Adventure
We just repaired a Chest freezer, those are the ones with the lid on top instead of a door, evaporator leaked inside the insulated walls. Just for practice we cut open the back found the leaking line. Repaired the line, and use liquid expanding insulation. Unit is still working great, Long story short it can be done, but for the average repair technician not worth the time a replacement freezer is definitely cheaper.
Sir! You have a lot of patience. I have ADHD and learning disabilities but you sir would definitely be the instructor for me.. great job. I understand More when you have my attention and it's something that peaks my interest.
The sticky stuff, I'm not really sure what that is, but if condenser leaked then most likely oil. They use some of the condenser line to help evaporate the defrost water in the pan. If that line corroded and leaked out the refrigerant it could also have water that might have entered the system, if that happened, a good possibility that is created a restriction and if it entered the compressor and mixed with the oil that is a major job flushing out that system. Wish you the best with that one.
You need a four hose, four valve manifold with a larger hose for vacuum. That way you could hook your hoses up normally. I used those old dial a charges back in the 70’s. You should teach those guys to pinch off, and remove those access valves to bring the system back to a sealed system
When using halogen leak detector, temporarily disconnect fans to precisely locate leak. Same with dye if you don't let it flow too long a LITTLE dye goes a LONG WAY.
That helps, but can also cause problems too much pressure could cause a leek, I know AC technicians use this practice, but refrigerant systems are very small compared to an AC and the pressure could cause the braze to actually leak.
@@Samlol23_drrich I think so also. When I braze on a R290 System, I let around 3 to 5 psi of nitrogen flow and come out the other end. When I'm ready to braze the other side, I use the same process. R290 is highly flammable, but I treat all refrigerants as highly flammable.
@@Samlol23_drrich Yes I am familiar with the process, but been doing sealed systems for 40 years and don't feel that it is necessary in a refrigerator, I was taught not to leave access valves on a system. if you do not have valves on the system and you completely close it off you can not do a pass through. I see in central air systems they have permanent access valves that allow this to happen. What if you only tap into system with one valve this is not possible
@@riz65 you clearly know a lot more than I do on the subject. What you are saying makes sense. I merely thought you didnt understand what the other guy was asking the videomaker regarding flowing nitrogen when brazing. What you are suggesting is probably why nobody flows nitrogen in refrigeration.
With all the lines coming off that compressor... it would be good to know which of the line(s) a low pressure tap can be attached to (on a closed system) in order charge it.
Trying to clarify some issues from minute 4 to min 20 something of the video: It seems a student got confused regarding the differences between a "purge" and a "pressure test". These are two different steps. First you purge, then you perform a "leak down" or "pressure test." You use dry nitrogen for both of these steps. After you change any components of an AC system, you should leave the low side OPEN (make sure you open the system on the correct side of check valves/ pistons- i.e. the way the fluids naturally flow in the system) and pump nitrogen through to PURGE (PURGE=clean out) it. Then you should completely close the system and pump up to 100 psi (no more than 100 psi with an aluminum vacuum pump) through it in order to check for any leaks. One student used the "drop test" which pressurize to 100 psi, then return later, check the gauges to see if any indicated less than 100 psi method. While the instructor is recommending you pressurize the system to 100 psi, and then stray soapy water onto the joints to ensure they are all sealed, because it is much faster. If this seems like i got the jest of it, let me know, because I, like everyone else, am watching this video to learn. So i am not being critical, I am just making sure I understand. Many thanks for the upload.
side note: We use DRY NITROGEN for these tests because Dry Nitrogen is safe and legal to discharge directly into the air and we do not have to recapture it in a spare tank for every test you perform. And you use a "thermal gun" lol, or FLIR thermometer ( a super expensive and (exactly...exactly..uh huh...exactly) temperature gauge, to watch temps, because if things are gets very hots, that's a very bad sign....NOTE TO ALL, tell students to hold questions until the end...especially (exactly, uh huh, exactly, exactly uh uh), because a fridge isn't the same as your car!
I'll try to help a little: "First you purge"....No, you don't purge first thing and often it's not necessary to purge at all. After recovering the R134a, you purge only if you suspect a restriction and this "purge" allows a free flow of nitrogen entering and exiting the system, in effect, minimum to no pressure build up. This is a purge. But, after first connecting the gauges and they show no pressure at all, this indicates you have a leak in the system and the FIRST thing you do is pressurize the system to 100 PSI and find out where that R134a is leaking from. If you do a repair to the sealed system, when done, you next "pressure test" it by pressurizing the system to 100 PSI of nitrogen. Bubble leak test your welds but also watch your pressure gauge for any movement of the needle showing a move downward to less pressure. Because these systems are so small, that needle will move fairly quickly and 30 minutes is plenty of time to see that happen. If it does happen, you have a leak and need to find out where it's leaking from. The reason manufactures recommend no more than 150 PSI (use 100 PSI, works just fine) is not because of the "aluminum pump" but because the evaporator is made of aluminum, a very soft metal with pressed fitting or welded connections that may not withstand several hundred PSI of nitrogen testing. There are a couple of guys on RU-vid I just watched and one has 250 PSI and the other has 350 PSI on their refrigerators while testing with nitrogen. Way overcharged and could easily damage the evaporator. Hope this helps and good luck!
@@Kevin-ib4gv You are correct Note the test pressures on the model and serial plate, when pressurizing the system for leak testing always go about 20 to 30 PSI below the lowest test pressure. They usually post 2 pressures high side and low side test pressures and if you are testing the entire system you can only go by the lowest test pressure.
Very helpful video. I liked the quality of the way you bring information to the students. Thank you very much for the helpful tutorial video. I have two questions. 1) If the system is overflowing with freon, should I pump some out with a vacuum pump? 2) Another question is, when the system is filled with freon correctly in volume, then it should be sealed afterwards - it is good to pinch the temporary service valve so that no amount of freon comes out and a little further from this place, make a second pinch and solder it, right? Thanks in advance for your replies.
1. do not run vacuum pump with any refrigerant or pressure in the system " Ex.. Nitrogen" this will cause the pump to shoot out oil. if overcharged try using a passive recovery device, empty tank or recovery bag. 2. yes valves should be removed pinching and brazing the end is correct. but make sure there is enough tubing left to attach an access valve in the future if you need to go back in and service the system
@@riz65 Thank you very much. You are a very good teacher. If I had a chance to study with you, I would take it. You helped me a lot by simply answering my questions. Can you recommend the most accessible (in terms of simple language written) textbook on this topic for Maintenance Of Domestic Refrigerators?
thanks so muuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuch
i just purge the hose at the manifold with refrigerant. I like your process better. I have an issue with a 2012 lg fridge. box temp 60 all the time compressor on no codes. They did have a issue with a clogged drain and evap coil frozen. Now no cooling after thawed. Oil slugged cap? or burnt comp?.sealed system. I guess i need to install a process fitting and get the guages on at least the low side.
Can I use a reinforced titanium needle with ultra powerful clamp capable of penetrating the copper alum and an outlet to hand pump it into a fire extinguisher tho?
#1, i would like to SAY THANK YOU for such a GREAT video.. i learned so much. #2, my LG refrigerator linear compressor failed. LG sent a repair tech who cut the lines allowing the refrogerant to vent to atmosphere, then installed the compressor and drier BUT NEVER pulled a vacuum and never pressurized the system It has been 5 days and my refridgerator is still at 47⁰ and freezer is at 22⁰. Is there anything i can do? I will tell you i have automotive vacum pump and gauges as well as R134a. I am.sick of LG and pathetic service techs. ALSO, did you mention what the high side pressure should be when running(freon)? TY again, i am a subscriber now.
Rule of thumb it is easer to weigh in a charge in liquid form, weighing vapor can be done but is harder to be accurate in the charge. Refrigerant blends "such as" 406a like most blends have to be charged strictly as a liquid. As vapor leaves a tanks the weight lowers which is true and therefore can be measured. Since we deal with different types of refrigerant I try to make it simple so the students don't make a mistake and charge a blend as a vapor. Liquid charging is also faster than charging with vapor.
I added 12a to my freezer and all the pressure gauges read the right pressure,but it runs more than it did before I added it .kenmore freezer and it calls for r12
Is it correct to vacuum and fill the system using only the low-side service valve on the compressor? If the R600A refrigerant was successfully evacuated into the street, then the system was purged with nitrogen, a compressor and a filter were installed. Everything was soldered. Initially, the system has no restrictions, the problem is only with the compressor.
can you recover TO the dial-a-charge ? and then return it to the machine once repairs are done? OR do I HAVE to use a recovery tank then recharge dial-a-charge then machine??
Must use recovery tank, the dial a charge is not designed to pump refrigerant into it, the tanks are designed for that. tanks also have some sort of safety pressure release the dial a charge does not.
is there any rule how should a filter dryer be mounted? Sometimes it is horizontal, sometimes vertical, sometimes at a different angle, e.g. inclined 80 degree
I have heard both over the years, Horizontal I think is probably better as any heavy sediment such as oil may tend to clog up the entrance to the capillary tube
For my class project I currently servicing a r12 refrigerator system for leaks (I fixed that by the way) and later installed 2 service access tee into the low and high side. I wanted to know the evacuation levels for refrigerator. Please and thank you
When pulling a vacuum the gauge on the low side should go into 30" vacuum. Currently we use something called a micrometer it measures deeper vacuum levels, that should be around 500 Microns
Question, pulling a vacuum on red side won’t damage your gauge? I understand to prevent air going though Yellow line but doesn’t a ball valve at the end of the yellow line helps with that? Thank you
Yes but you cant measure vapor, these units are critical charge which means needs exact amount too little or too much affect the performance. Old school technicians charge by pressure but this is not accurate.
@@riz65 when u put 134a on a scale upright it's vapor. It's a single compound that can b charged either way liquid or vapor n u can weigh it in as a vapor.
@@shine-cg9uf tech that gave me some training measures vapor in on low side. He puts an ounce in then cycles compressor and continues that process until he gets it all in.
If you don't know how much refrigerant to add to the system what do you do? For example I have a small R134A water cooler and it doesn't say on the nameplate how much refrigerant to charge the system with. Also do you ever have to use the superheat method to get a proper charge with 134A?
Low side varies from 1 or 2 inches into a vacuum to about 0 or 1 PSI, The high sie is around 125, that depends on if it has a fan, or static in the back of the unit or in a wall. but those pressure are average.
Thanks for the video. The video doesn’t show it but I am assuming you are connecting the blue line the the processing line. Is that correct? Also, I have a friend who is introducing a sealing solution into the system to seal leaks. Is that a legitimate or reliable way to seal leaks?
Yes the blue hose is connected to the Compressor Process stub, Sealant has pros and cons works about 50% of the time, you should also use a separate set of hoses and/or gauges as the sealant can clog up anything it reaches air. the other concern I have is the capillary tube is small and will the sealant affect inside the tubing.
You should feel heat on the condenser and Cooler air from the evaporator, I would say about 30 to 40 minutes the freezer should hav reached its temp between 0 degrees Fahrenheit to 10 degrees
Using a dye is last resort, I know Frigidaire has a drier filter with a dye in it. I would use one of those, as far as injector. remember a refrigerant system takes average 4 to 8 ounces. a ounce of Dye is a lot for such a small system. So i personally would not use something an injector. I think those are more suited for AC systems or lager units.
Hi I have a problem with a whirlpool fridge the condenser coil is warm the freezing coil just freeze at the top and the compressor motor keep building up heat hot
I know this video is a couple years old but hopefully you got yourself a good pair of digital gauges. Also why teach to pull vacuum through manifold and refrigerant hoses instead of dedicated evacuation hoses and just purge the air from charging hose with refrigerant prior to charging?
I have been servicing appliances for 40 years, Started in 1983, I still use an analog Multimeter. I am Richard the one in the video. Don't get me wrong digitals are great, but what do you do if gauge fails or battery dies in middle of the job. This does not happen with Analog. I agree digital tools are good for some things, but hard to change old habits The reason I use manifold for the vacuum, is your only dealing with a system that holds average of 4 ounces, should not take that long to bring the system down, second of all when I charge the system I want to see my pressures, if you have vacuum separate then disconnect and connect manifold for charging this just opens the door for air to enter system. Many people have their methods of servicing a sealed system..
@@appliancetraining5600 yea I can understand that being a smaller system with just a few ounces your reasoning for evacuating through manifold definitely makes much sense, now that you explain it I guess I was just ignorantly comparing it to an air conditioning system. But As far as the digital gauges failing or battery dying I would either replace with new batteries or grab my analog gauges from the truck, I'm not suggesting not to own analogs or understand how to use them I just prefer the accuracy of the digital gauges. I do appreciate your videos and thank you for sharing!!
Man.. these guys are in Applince repair and having a he'll of a time comprehending the basics.. crazy, they need to graduate your class before going into the field.
I totally agree GE used to have a apprenticeship program and did away with it and I’m working for GE and I come from electronic field and I have no idea what I’m doing. Sometimes I have to look up RU-vid videos just to get work done
I may be wrong, but I believe they are in the class to learn how to repair. Which would make sense why they don't know some basics, as they are currently learning. Likely a mixed classroom of week 1 students and week 8 students.
there is still a 3 or 4 inch portion of the hose that would allow air to get into the system, minimal, but rememeber air has humidity and that is not good for any system
I have a question Richard, I was always taught not to charge liquid refrigerant through the low side, for fear of slugging that compressor. How can you do it the way your showing without worry?
You should charge with liquid is the easiest way to measure the amount you put in the system. You wont slug the compressor because this is done with the compressor in the off position. once the charge is in it expands throughout the entire system, at that time you can start the compressor with no issues.
These systems take very minimal amounts, so you might get away with it while not running.. plus you'd meter it thru your low side of the manifold, just monitor the pressure you're putting in. On refrigeration systems you can charge straight liquid into the high side while it's not running but most of the time it won't take the entire charge or clear your sight glass, especially if you have a receiver. You'd meter it in your suction side while the compressor is running, just gotta be careful with reciprocating and scroll compressors. Even semi hermetics, but they can take some abuse.
The compressor of my LG refrigerator is keep running (it stop maybe one time for 15 minutes/day). The freezer is cold, I mean everything else is working. The low side show 4 and high side is 103.Please help. Thanks
So basically you can’t check for a leak in the system like you would in a vehicle?? You pressurize the system.. in a vehicle you would use the suction pump and get the gage to negative and then let it sit to see if the needle on gage goes up to zero. Interesting. I figured you would do it like a vehicle also.
Never mind. You explained at like 17:30 of vid. So if you use suction .. you may suck in moisture.. so like a vehicle it would do the same. It’s that big of deal? You lose suction then you know there’s a leak .. then partial charge and check with sniffer .. find issue .. repair and you will have to evacuate the system anyways.
@@styga1969 Remember refrigerator systems use a capillary tube where automotive use an orifice or expansion valve, moisture in the system could cause problems such as mixing with the oil and breaking down the viscosity eventually damaging the compressor, or the capillary tube could get restricted. moisture is not good in a system. A little should be no problem but depending on size of the leak you don't know how much moisture you pulled into the system when evacuating with a pump.
@@appliancetraining5600 Ahhhhh. Didn’t know that. I’ve been a mechanic/technician for ford dealership life for over 25 years. (Got out of that bull crap) ..lol. My refrigerator just crapped out. The fan under the fridge was seized .. replaced that and it’s working (fan) now the freezer side (coils) are freezing up. The heater and sensor is supposed to be coming today … hopefully that will fix it.
Yeah back in the 80s when I started in appliances they had a small 1 lb unit this is more like for a shop enviroment. unfortuneately no one is making them anymore
There is something wrong with what he is teaching u never use the 3 hoses on a fridge the readings will be off and a purge is the high and low sides are both locked off open the gas on the yellow hose then loosen the end on the manifold which removes the air in the yellow hose then fix back the yellow hose that's how to do it not using all 3 hoses
perzactly. but it wasn't due to the instructor. he had to repeat the same simple concepts because of the constant interruptions from the excruciatingly thick students who seemed incapable of simply shutting up and listening.
One question ❓ please I don't have a scale can you please tell me how much psi on the gage of Freon of r134 for the fridge or freezer please thank you God bless 🙏
Ok thanks but when I regas I change the filter vacuum and I don't have a scale I put between 5 to 8 psig of my gage I don't know if I am doing it rong or over charge the system please let me know thanks 👍
