Hi At this point with my Frigidaire GLHS67EHQ side-by-side refrigerator, I’ve replaced the damper, evaporator thermostat, and evaporator fan (which is running). Although the compressor was working, I decided to install a new start device since the unit is 12 years old and I was already cleaning the condenser coil. The damper is open, and air is flowing, but there doesn’t seem to be much velocity. The freezer is cold, but the fridge side remains warm. There’s no corrosion, and there’s no ice buildup on the evaporator. I also replaced the control panel, but that didn’t resolve the cooling issue on the fridge side either. I’ve checked and rechecked everything, including re-crimping the evaporator thermostat wires to ensure they were properly connected, but the problem persists. I’ve also removed the ice maker and top back panel to check for obstructions, and everything looks good. The vent by the crisper is clear as well. I’ve been working on this for days and am not sure what else I can check. Any further guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for any ideas in advance. Dean
I bought a new deep freeze and it was great,it was operating perfectly well but vandals broke in and tipped it over. After that event when I switched it on the system works, but the fridge is not getting cold.... need help
R600 is measured in grams mostl;y, new refrigerator use both grams or ounces, anyways I use a small food scale from amazon to measure the refrigerant in the system.
Actually cold doesn't leave, heated air moves in. Atmospheric gases in any area always try to equalize temperature. You want to text temperature of food and water inside a refrigerator that had been in for awhile. Water does not change temperature rapidly. However, water temperature will NEVER REACH below 32° without tremendous removal of superheat btu's. Water also will not reach above 212° F unless superheated under pressure or by subjecting to microwaves. It is important to teach students physics regarding pressure and superheat when dealing with refrigeration systems. It's on the licensing tests.
In appliance repair, there is no license as you say, only commercial trades like HVAC etc.. This is meant to be a basic understanding of the refrigerator. I do have a cup of water inside the bottom mount refrigerator and that is in the discussion for part 2. As far as cold leaving, in refrigeration there is only heat no such thing as cold, is the absence of heat. But again for those who are not taking a formal class all the things you are saying are true but irrelevant for the actual lesson I'm trying to teach, Thanks for the input.
okay, I have an older Frigidaire refrigerator, 2002 model in actually excellent shape. Don't want to buy a new one made in China! Stopped working completely, so watched some videos on RU-vid, and it was most likely the timer. Plugged a new timer in and the compressor and fan started working immediately, and the freezer froze a water bottle. Then it shut off and the the water bottle started to thaw. This is happening over and over, as the water thaws, freezes again , and starts thawing ! Could the new timer I bought on Amazon be bad? Any other tests ? The original timer was listed at 10 hours- 30 , the new timer is 12 hours-25. Have a brand new spare that is 8 hours-25. Should I try the spare? I'm using the same amp timers.
Hello, I am from Greece and I got an Amana refrigerator at the house I am renting. Refrigerator is not mine. I am mechanical engineer, so I tend to search learn and fix things if I got the time. The last two days I noticed that my freezer in refrigerator was melting the ice cubes and the frozen food wasn't too Frozen. So I was searching to learn regarding the refrigerators in general. I found your videos and I was amazed from your teaching, I saw two times videos "Refrigerator troubleshooting" part 1 , 2 and 3 and it felt like the knowledge was instantly transferred to my brain. The result is that I troubleshoot the refrigerator problem and I found a burn out condenser motor. I searched for the part on local market and I replaced it saving a lots of money and I have the learning overall experience ( theoretical and practical) Therefore I would like to thank you from the deepest of my heart for sharing this knowledge in public. May God bless you.
This information is fantastic! I am a domestic natural gas engineer in the UK and have 30 years experience as an electronics repair technician. Fridge freezers have always been a mystery to me and i want to expand to F-Gas certification to do HVAC systems. Your teaching is absolutely excellent and enjoyable, and i am rivetted to watching your lessons. I have only just found you and this is my 1st video watched and i have learnt so much from you. Thank you for sharing! :)
So if I want to get an accurate temp reading in the freezer with the sensor on my DMM, how long should I wait after I open the door and place the sensor inside? 5 or 10 minutes? More? How long will it take the evaporator to reestablish temperature?
The most accurate was to test refrigerator temperature is to see if they have any water stored in there and test water temp, IF you are waiting for refrigerator air temp to stabilize, too many factors to give a time frame, but here is what you do to be as accurate as possible. Leave doors open till compressor cycles on, have sensor inside unit, wait till compressor cycles off that will be as closest to set temperature, but the water is the best.
Great video but just one thing, when your fans and compressor are working yet you have no cooling you want to look for a plugged/dirty coil before checking pressures. Thankful for this channel since transitioning to appliance repair from HVAC.
Another thing I learned from this video and part two was the foam diffusers that keep the evap coil in place, check those before pressure/temp too. And he said if the unit isn't level the doors flex and might not shut the light switch off. Thank you for this content
What could cause only the top evaporator coil out of 5 coils (where the freon is entering the condenser) to be cold but the rest of the coils to be NOT cold? The air coming out of the air baffle on top of the fridge is warm but the compressor seems to be working since there is frost on the first coil but the rest of the coils are not cold which is causing the blown air to be too warm. Im thinking the fact that 4 out of 5 coils are warm is causing this issue. Any ideas? All the fans are working, all the coils and fins are clean without any dust.
I must be the only one who wants a largr freezer than refrigerator. I ha e been watching video after video trying to figure out how to move th evaporator coils or just the fan blowing direction just so the bottom of my top mount is the freezer. This is not the same as a bottom mount. At least not for me. I actually want a SMALLER REFRIGERATOR. so I want to convert those old school fridges like the one you're demonstrating on. I call this the FREEZERATOR. Everything I get close I realize something else has to move. I dread having to cut copper because it doesn't go back together with duct tape LOL. NOW these temperatures thermostats regulating openings for the air.... I can't do this myself. Maybe you can do it with step by step, and I can follow you? I thought oh just flip that fan vent over just move the evaporator coils to the bottom. Is there space in the larger cabinet for the coils? Now I need a new cover And the length of the pipes bringing freon to the coils has to change. Please help me make a FREEZERTOR. THANKS
What you are proposing is possible, but would be a nightmare. Wiring, cooling components fan etc.. defrost wiring. Defrost drain is an issue. Then you have airflow, sorry I could do it, but way too much work. I once helped a student refrigerate a spacesaver microwave, I honestly think you should look into the electrolux all refrigerator or buy an upright freezer and change temperature control that would make more sense
@@richardzilka8151 Wow it seems as if a small fridge maybe 3.0 cubic foot like the Galanz company makes that size seems doable. Or does the freon literally only flow one way in the tubes? Would it be better from scratch? I mean One could wire things as if it were a bottom mount refrigerator, but only the compartments wouldn't change.
The Galanz is different The blower is enclosed Whatever cooling they do happens on the other side of the cabinet. The inside is dry and quiet no air blowing. And there are no coils exposed in the back either. everything is sealed. I guess I'm going to have to go play in the junk yard until I figure it out.
Im an Analog meter guy, Old School. But Field Piece makes a good meter, but for most Appliances tests you do not necessarily need such an expensive meter a simple Klein Meter that measures AC/DC voltage, Capacitance, temperature and HZ, Klein has one between $35 and $55
