#chargepoint #electricvehicle #electrician In this video I install a Charge Point Electric Vehicle Charger and new 50-amp 240 volt circuit on the exterior of a home in Oceanport, New Jersey.
Good video. One minor point that is not that important, but the communication cable you mention at 13:39 is to enable the charger (the EVSE box you are installing) to communicate to the car and negotiate the max charging current. Depending on the circuit you install that charger (EVSE) on, it can provide between 16 and 50 amps, but it has to be able to communicate that limit to the charger build in to the car so that it limits the current appropriately.
Great video! As a 3rd year apprentice I really learn a lot watching guys like you with years of experience. I have so much to learn! The best part of your channel, and what makes yours unique, is that your one of the only electricans where we can watch you work, start to finish; you also explain things as you go, which is wonderful.
Yea man, suck all that knowledge in from the older more experienced electricians. Best way to learn imo. That's how I was taught, 21 years later still learning new stuff
great video RON as always you help me to improve on my work like the pvc board that you use to mount the device too great tip make for clean job ill be using that for sure be safe keep sharing videos
Few years back i did bunch of ev chargers for Carvana locations and they got us these same chargers from charge point. I loved them, super simple hook ups and very fun to do. Keep up great work ron. Dont stop making videos 😅
Love your work, Ron. I just recently installed one of these same units. I liked the crimps on the charger cable side so I purchased a hexagonal crimper and put ferrules on the supply side. Given the snap down connectors, it really made a nice electrical connection with no deforming of the #6 conductors and #8 ground.
Nice work! I really like the content you're putting out. I wish you worked in Jacksonville, FL, I would hire you to upgrade my service. I live in a condo, and my panel has no Main! I couldn't believe it, and that discouraged me from taking on a lot of achievable homeownery projects. love that you are thorough and thoughtful about the work you do. That is a great quality in a contractor and a person. I look forward to the next video. Cheers!
Another excellent vide Ron...If you ever want a helping 2nd hand give some notice, I'd love to come over and spend a day to chat, and pick your brain awhile...😃😉😎
Great video, awesome job! I do a lot of these also and charge point has a great EV charger, just curious, why not use EMT rather than PVC? What size is that EGC?
Great job on the installation. Question regarding GFCI protection, I understand that unit is hard wired but is it not an outdoor outlet that would still require protection? Example is the condenser now and of course receptacles.
The Chargepoint has a built in GCFI. They say in their online documentation to NOT install with GCFI on the outlet if you use an outlet as that can cause charging issues. So on mine, which is just using a 220v 50a outlet, I did it without a GCFI outlet as didn't need the drama. Had no issues so far. But also in AZ, where water is rare.
@@cengeb main point of gfci is for water as a concern in regards to location of outlets etc. the kid got zapped cause it wasnt grounded properly, they still would want an AC grounded properly. outdoor AC units are usually hardwired... kinda lost with your point ?
Some constructive criticism, You should outline your stand out box to the vinyl siding strategically and use a 4" grinder to cut the siding to the structure's sheathing making that piece of pvc stand out plate flush with the siding. It makes for a more professional finish and takes an extra 20 minutes of work. It also allows you to caulk the seal to the structure.
I love the detail and quality of your electrical work. One thing I did not see is how you waterproofed the hole through the siding. From the video, it seems like water is free to run down between the PVC mounting plate, and between the charger base and that PVC. That all needs to be sealed to prevent damage to that wall.
Yes. The 80 amp figure has to be rated at 125%. This an NEC requirement. So, 80A x 125% is 100 amps. Make sure whoever you hire to do they understand that. #3 AWG Copper and a 100 amp double-pole circuit breaker. Good luck. Btw, my mom lives in Carolina Shores, NC. Just over the state border.
Hi Ron. Just subscribed to your channel, great work. I love watching pro do the right work correctly. Thank you for that. In your videos you mentioned that it easier to work with single wires vs one all in wire. My question is. I am going to have a NEMA plug done in my house , here in NJ. Can we run 2 hot wires at 6 gauge , neutral 8 gauge and ground 10 gauge? Cant seem to find any code info on that. Thank you
Very clean job. Thanks. P.S. Mr.Ron. When you have time, would you kindly show me how to extend #6, bare copper from the active panel to the Ground Rod? Because the #6 bare copper was installed previously shot. Many thanks.
What can I do with an extra 60 amp circuit in a garage? Replacing a water heater with a Tankless. 3-40 amp circuits were already pulled for the Tankless.
If that car charger draws 48 amps then by code he needed a two-pole 60 amp circuit breaker. He was not allowed to use the two-pole 50 if that charger draws 48 amps
@@theseattlegreen1871 obviously this is an old comment, but yeah I was wondering the same thing - my understanding (i've got this charger on order and will be installing it or having it installed shortly) from the research is that the device allows you to set the ampacity delivered based on your installed circuit, so it is "okay" to install it with a 50 amp breaker, but the user should not set the ampacity on the charger to the 48a setting and should stay at 40a/9.6kwh. The charger will even allow a 30amp setting if that's alll your wiring is for. So, IMO, a 60 amp non-GFCI breaker on 6 awg seems like the way to go to enable the maximal charging output to a vehicle. Technically, you can even set it to a full 50 amps to get that 12kwh speed, but htat requires a 70/80 amp breaker and associated wiring.
I think the charger would have looked best mounted directly on the siding instead of the white Plastic Square mounting block. Simply because the car chargers color and the house color matches.
Are those PVC joints glued inside? (Is it necessary?) SimPULL is a trademark of Southwire. CerroWire calls it SLiPWire. It's a coating on the conductor insulation. Before that you used to have to use wire-pulling lube. Ha ha
Now can you access this charger on the side , top or bottom with 3/4 pvc in a surface application ? Nice install . I would think in the not to distant future you maybe doing these fulltime .
@@Ampacityelectric To me that still says you can't use this charger for a surface conduit installation . The single bottom ko is used for the cord so the only other ko is in the back . That limits installs . You may not have the ability to enter from the back of the charger . For example if the only way to provide the circuit is the exterior of a building . It's fine to come in through the bottom and not sure why they don't provide 2 entry points in the bottom . Is it possible to drill out or ko punch another hole.? I also did not see a strain relief on the cord to hold it to the charger .
Hmmm, I thought that it was a WiFi hard wire connection to the receiver, when it is too far for the bluetooth to work. Also, it was my understanding that the charger communicates to the car through the wires in the connector cable? I say that because that is the way Charge Point's public chargers work, as well as Electrify America. I could be wrong.
That Chargepoint is up to 48amp when hardwired. Any reason you didn't go with a 60amp breaker and instead I'm assuming set the chargepoint to 40amp only?
Good video Ron. A question you used #6 for your 2 hots and #10 for your ground, since I am still learning how did you come about using #10 for ground, is there some calculation you would have used. Could you have used #8 ? Looking forward to your response.
I have a question for you if a may , I want to connect a car charger in my garage, I already have a dedicated 240 v line with the plug right were I wanted, but the line coming out of the breaker panel have two black conductors and one bare metal conductor. Can I install this to a Nema 14-50? Thank you.
I was quoted $1550 for hardwire installation for this charger like 2ft away from my panel and that price doesn't include the charger. I just want it right next to the panel and don't even need to go through walls. Is that high, normal, or low? I feel like its a bit too steep. I have a spare slot for the 240V double pole breaker so no panel upgrade needed.
Ron, I want to do an outdoor installation, but my panel is all the way on other side of house in the basement. I’m guessing conduit line would be around 75 ft. No garage. Is that gonna be a nightmare? Im clueless so, any info would help.
Permit requirements vary based on where you are. That said, I do believe most places require a permit for this kind of electrical work. Most places though just require that the work is done to code and passes inspection, they do allow for the homeowner to do it as long as you can meet code.
I have the ChargePoint homeflex and the wifi on it broke after five months. They are sending me a replacement which you have to replace yourself or find a pro to do it for you.
How much did this install cost (to the customer)? I just bought my first ev and I'm looking to get an outlet to plug my (included with car) nema 14-50 40 amp 250v portable cable into or a charging station like this installed. I'm sure pricing is different between new jersey and Texas (where I live), but I figured maybe I could get a ballpark estimate. My electricity at home is about 1/7 the price of public charging so it'd be nice to do it at home when possible.
Pricing can be complicated because each installation is different. This install was $1500 and the customer had the charger on hand prior to to the installation. It all depends on how far away from the main breaker panel the charger will be mounted. Also, I highly suggest this Chargepoint EVSE because it is able to be hardwired. The NEMA-1450 receptacle could become problematic because of the high-current draw. Hope this helps!
I dont like wiring exposed Id find a box for it all to go into with a lock..kids etc play with stuff.. get a smallvinyl box cut downto fit cable in out of sight out of mind..
Hey ron any particular reason you dont use EMT, question is because i dont know how to bend emt myself and always feels im lacking knowledge because of always using PVC
It's easy to learn how to bend conduit. I learned by buying a bunch of 1/2" EMT and followed the guides in the Ugly's book. I also learned a bit in the US Navy. The more you do it the more you learn. I don't have a need to bend EMT other than in unfinished basements for surface mounted receptacles and 1900 boxes or maybe a sump pump circuit along a concrete foundation wall. It also rusts easily where PVC doesn't.
Hi Ron love your videos. I want to install this charger in my garage and my panel is also located in the garage. My question is, do I need a disconnect as well for a 14-50 outlet? Is that code?
