I do admire folks like you who do these amazing and detailed videos. I am 63 years old, bought this bike on an impulse. It came in a big box and I realized I had no idea what to do. Your video help me every step of the way. Many thanks!
I have one of these. Great value for the money. Usually I prefer to get a little exercise, so I usually set pedal assist to level 1 which will on level ground allows me to 'out-pedal' the motor -- by using human power my speed is generally over 10 mph which is above the cut-in point for the motor. But on hills, if the grade is substantial, muscle power falls below the amount necessary to stay above 10 mph and the motor kicks in, which takes the 'killer' out of the hill. If I want to expend less effort, I set the pedal assist to level 2, which will generally push the bike along at 15 mph. Unless I pedal like mad I can't really apply any torque via the gear chain, so in this mode, except on hills, I'm just circulating the pedals without actually contributing to the forward motion of the bike which is driven by the motor most of the time,. Colin is right about it being difficult to get more than 20 mph even in the highest pedal assist mode, but for me the bike is more about extending my range from my maximum waling distance (more than 2 miles and my knees will hurt for a month, but with the bike a trip of 10-12 miles is pretty comfortable). The way pedal assist works is something you adjust to. I think it works very well and you can adapt to it's functionality to a variety of different strategies, depending on what your priorities are, getting there fast, getting somewhere far away and back on one battery charge, getting there without breaking a sweat, or getting there and getting some exercise too. After a time you'll be able to figure out how to use pedal assist to accomplish any of these objectives.
I know it's called e-assist, but if you're on a flat road on the highest setting will the bike move on its own using just the motor without any pedaling?
@@deanishere1154 Yes, it's holding up great. I remain very satisfied with this e-bike. It's not the Lamborghini of e-bikes but .... maybe like the Toyota Corolla.
I bought this bike for 578.00. So far it's proven to be better than expected! It operates easily and makes it a breeze to ride again a heavy wind. For the price, even though it's higher than at the time of this video, is still a good buy.
@@leninninel5652 I'm more than satisfied with it's performance. I bought a more comfortable seat and added a rear view mirror. My only complaint is I wish the battery would last longer but am thinking about carrying a second charged battery as one person commented that's what they did.
@@leonardharris7699 Good to hear the battery is still functional, it might even be a second battery thing, might just be the old battery is degraded and does not hold as much charge anymore just like any other battery
I have this bike and love it! Makes it sooo easy to ride uphills and I am not in shape and hills are usually a huge struggle for me to get up! For the money it is spot on!
Thank you I have just used your vid to put one of these together, getting ready to ride very shortly. Your wife is lovely, and how lucky she is to have a man like yourself.
Thanks. I'm glad the video was useful. Let me know what you think of the ebike. Ours sat for over a year and the battery stopped charging unfortunately.
You are amazing! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I bought this bike for $320.00 after tax. Without your stellar video, I am a 63 year young female and would not have been able to put this bike together as easily without you. I think you would get even more views if you did a follow up demo video showing people the specifics of truing the wheels, how to tilt the steering wheel and adjusting the brakes. That would be really helpful!!🌻🌹🌻
Hello Laurie, thanks for sharing your experience. I'm glad you were able to assemble it yourself. I appreciate the suggestions, and may post something on that in the future.
Seat height is adjusted so your leg is almost extended at the bottom of the stroke; you must stand up on the pedals and step down to stop without falling over. If your seat is too low, you won't be able to ride nearly as far as you would with the correct seat height. An e-bike isn't as critical on seat height (unless you're trying for the 100 mile ride in one day).
I always try to set the seat like that on my wife and daughter's bike, but they fuss and want it so low their knees almost hit their chin. I commuted to work by bike 12 miles each way for 20 years, but they won't listen to me. Even with my leg almost extended, my right knee was hurting so much I had it X-rayed thinking I had lost cartilage. It was fine and just a sore tendon. Turned out the Bio-pace elliptical front sprocket was the culprit. Looking it over, I rotated it back from the manufacturer's setting so the min radius occurred near full stroke, which fixed the problem, then read where others did the same thing for same reason.
Buy the bike for under $400 is a very good deal I see all bikes prices fluctuate drastically... So you know how bad they're screwing you.... The e-bike market is saturated.. they seem to throw any price on them at any time.... Don't worry about the really big power bikes.. you can't ride them on the bike path
I ended up buying a Magicycle when it was 1299 - then I saw this go on sale again for 400 so I bought one. I am very impressed with the range and performance given the low price and specs. I like doing my 12 mile commute on this because it works and I don't worry about it as much being locked up outside during my shift (double locked, cover over it, and battery brought inside to charge). I dig it!
Yep - current price is $598 as of 2021-02-03. Intriguing at $398 - but at $600, since I'm a bike mechanic who can spoke wheels, a hub kit on one of my mountain bikes looks like a better option. ---------------- Edit: 12/08/21 - They went down to $400, and I couldn't see missing that deal. I got the blue city bike (they also make black). The bad news - anyone scoffing at "cheap Chinese junk" needs to sit up and pay attention. I remember when we laughed at cheap Japanese junk in the early '70s. A few years later and no one was laughing - they were scrambling for market share. History is about to repeat itself - China has far more resources than Japan had. Something to think about. The good news - this bike is really not at all "cheap Chinese junk". I was a bike mechanic when Schwinn was an actual American company, not a marketing label, and I was a Schwinn factory trained mechanic - each Schwinn dealer was required to have at least one. So I've unboxed hundreds of bikes that made the short trip from Chicago to Oklahoma - many of them were in worse shape than this Hyper e-bike, which came about 6,000 miles to get to my home. There are multiple nice touches - machined brake surfacing on the rims, decent tires, bearing pedals instead of sleeved... I was surprised to find bosses on the underside of the seat stays for a frame lock - something you almost never see in the U.S. (I mounted an old Abus lock I had lying around.) Wheels were properly true and concentric, the headset and front hub were correctly adjusted (a tiny bit rough, but that's acceptable, and just what you're going to get at this price point) - The bottom bracket was way off - a surprising oversight, but there was a ton of lateral play, and I had to run the adjustable cup in about 4 complete turns to adjust it. Odd, but not a show-stopper. There is no adjusting the rear hub - those are pressed-in sealed bearings - they're either good or they're not, and hopefully they can be replaced when they wear. The fenders, rack, bars, seatpost, crank arms and stem are all steel - and since this is a less expensive e-bike, about what I'd expect, and completely acceptable quality. I didn't expect the rack to be a sturdy as it is - there are plenty of cheap flexy steel racks out there - this one is a properly decent, solid rack - it's just not high-end aluminum tubing. I've had about 25 lbs of groceries in panniers on this rack and there's very little "butt wiggle" coming from the rack. My first ride was unpowered - the battery was charging. I rode about four miles around the neighborhood. The bike is heavy for a bike - about 50 lbs., but that is only really noticeable pulling away from a stop, or going uphill. Otherwise, it's a perfectly nice riding bike. (By comparison - I also have a Raleigh DL1 roadster, which has only three gears and weighs on the far side of 40 lbs., so I don't freak if a bike weighs more than 17 lbs.) This was an important ride - at some point, believe it or not, like it or not, you are going to ride your e-bike without power. If that first ride had been miserable, the bike would have gone back to Walmart. The second ride was powered. There were a couple things I noticed immediately - the power delivery was surprising to me - it feels like they've made some effort to source a controller that "ramps up" smoothly - I've ridden a couple of other 250 watt hub bikes that had a jerky feel when the motor engaged - much more of a toggle switch effect. This is a more subtle and smoother engagement - another nice touch. The motor is also quieter than some budget hubs I've heard. It's barely noticeable. The second thing I noticed is that a bike that is geared to be a pleasant ride without power is somewhat undergeared when powered. With level 3 assist, top gear is not that useful. You're basically just phantom pedaling to keep the motor running. Maybe I'll see about dropping a tooth or two on the high end when I replace the freewheel. We'll see. Going to a larger chainring would make the chainguard impossible, and would move the whole gear range up - making it less rideable without power. The jury is still out on this one. Otherwise, I've been on some short rides, fifteen miles or less, and the remaining battery makes me think 25 miles is a reasonable range given my riding style. Running only on full assist, and while just "phantom pedaling" will, of course, lower the range. Bottom line? Best money I've spent this year.
Colin, thanks for your thorough review! As a bonus, when you shared about getting a quick release skewer for your bike's front wheel so you could quickly remove wheel because you didn't have a bike rack, that bit of knowledge was a game changer for me. I had always been frustrated that I couldn't get my bike into my minivan, now I know how to do it!
Thanks. I actually bought quick release axles, so I could take the front wheel off easily. It does require disassembling the front axle, but isn't that difficult. Just make sure you tighten it enough, but not too tight where the axle binds. amzn.to/3buzvif
@@dormetheus yes. it is intentionally designed that way for both legal and hardware reasons. once the system detects that the bike is going over 20 mph it will stop assisting you. that's basically it
It becomes pretty seamless. If you want assist, just don't pedal too hard once at 20 mph. You kind of hit a wall, since any faster and the motor stops assisting. Believe me that 20 mph is about as fast as you want to go regularly. I hit maybe 45 mph on some steep downhills on my regular bike and that takes max attentiveness and wouldn't be pretty if a mechanical failure or a hard bump.
You all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot my login password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
@@ColinLeung shoot with everything so expensive Idk if it will ever drop that low . The e-bike I got from ancheer was the last of its kind . They don’t make one like the one I got . They make cheaper ones at the price I got mine at . It’s crazy times . I’m looking at a new e-bike I’m stuck between two
Trust me you don't want to go much faster than 20mph on a bike of this quality and without proper gear. You can easily get 30-40mph on a bike going downhill in high gear if you like to live dangerously. I've seen people do that on youtube but they have high quality bikes.
Kinda surprised you didn't build it in a long grass lawn, not read the instructions, and not charge the battery before reviewing it as the other ebike reviewer did. Gotta say this is a fairly honest review (unlike the other guy did)....
That single review made me dump that channel. That made me lose any respect I had for their opinions, and question their professionalism entirely. That was one of the most contemptible, sorry deliberate hatchet reviews by an e-bike snob I think I've seen - except for one moron who tried to destroy the mountain bike version of the e-ride by bashing it through a competition-grade course.
I ´m impressed that you get this much ebike for $400. I´ve been riding E now for 5 years. I´m old & fat so this bike wouldn´t do for me, but for a reasonably athletic person under 180 pds, this a pretty good budget ride. It uses some oler type components but that´s not necessarily bad. It´s easier to work on than the bike I´m riding. Iḿ certain it´s lighter. I think one should have a basic knowledge of bike mechanics. It obviously needs a bit of tuning out of the box. It´s affordable enough to personalize.
@@will4may175 - Depends. $400 holiday pricing is currently (12/08/21) in place - same as last holiday season. The only competition I see at the $400 price is the Jetson Bolt Pro - which is why I just bought the Hyper.
I'm a lifetime cyclist and can give tou a tip about the seat hight the bike are not made for you to touch your feet to the ground while seated, you have to raise the saddle until your pedal is in the 6 o'clock position and with your foot down in the pedal with the knee bent a little bit.
I bought this at the bonkers sale price and despite the cost cutting, it's perfectly usable out of the box as long as you have a screwdriver to tune the derailleur (but I got one with a junk falcon derailleur instead of the Shimano most people seem to get) Mine had a few problems - the seat clamp wasnt tight enough to hold the seat. I could have tightened it a lot, but it felt like kinda junk and I had a spare one sitting around so I replaced it. Then I noticed how crunchy the pedal bearings were. Again, usable, but I had some spares. The wheels were just slightly out of true. Usable, but a spoke wrench and five minutes solved it. The derailleur took some work (I'm a novice with chain systems, my other bike is a belt so I knew nothing) but I got it reasonably smooth with just a RU-vid video from park and a Philips. The front fender needed a little bending straight to not rub, and after that, it rode nicely. The front forks are crashy and I kinda wish it was just rigid, and the seat is a nightmare that absolutely needs an upgrade. But the brake pads have good feel, the tires handled slushy snow just fine, and power from the motor is unrefined but surprising. I have an 18 degree hill by my house that I barely get up on my single speed 350w, but in first gear max assist, the Walmart bike just chugs up it. I also noticed the kickstand is kinda bad and the bike can fall over with it, but a $15 center stand on Amazon went right on with one bolt. Overall, I think anyone buying one of these needs to also order a basic Allen wrench set, a better seat, better pedals, a center kickstand, and a spoke wrench. But with a few basic tweaks and a couple hours of tuning, it's a super serviceable little city runaround.
Thanks for sharing your experience, and I'm glad you got it working smoothly. Some people buy it expecting it to work right out of the box, and may become frustrated because they do not have the tools nor skillset to perform those fixes.
@@ColinLeung I think one thing you did well in your video was point out that quite a few of the little issues arent out of reach to an average person. If you can assemble the bike, you have the skills to tune it up! I'm a complete idiot when it comes to derailleurs, but I just grabbed a screwdriver and RU-vid searched a video that explained it. The only things Id really point out as downsides are the packaging is kinda poor. I bet the wheel was slightly out of true for the same reason the fender was slightly bent. I'm a big proponent of encouraging people to try things and have realistic expectations. $398 for an entire ebike with fenders and a rack is bananas cheap. It's gotta be that cheap somehow, and if they give you good parts to boot, the fit and finish had to suffer. But the good news is that the problems it has aren't deal breakers and/or are easily fixed by anyone in an hour or so with at most a $2 special tool. I don't like gatekeeping hobbies and DIY behind expensive tools and parts or a lot of knowledge that's hard to find. Your video is a perfect example of what someone just getting started with their new boxed ebike needs! I'd always prefer a cheap product made with good materials that I can finish setting up myself. If someone is not able to do that step, a bike shop will probably put the bike together for you and set it up for $50
Honestly if you are going to spend that much get a lectric. $899 5 levels of pedal assist plus a throttle and cruise control. Quieter great customer service 500watt motor.
I buy them cheaper e bikes and upgrade them to perform like a 3000$ e bike by adding 2nd motor of 2000watts as a Turbo Booster. I build 2 of them of 2 motors each. I prefer using a Gear Motor as the base for it's added benefit of going farther without motor cutting off to cool down a bit( Gearless motors or DD can only go so far before motor cutting off a few minutes to cool down after 3 miles full throttle) . Both e bikes tops at 40plus mph. The best set up is to use a Gear motor as the main function while adding 2000watts to ride faster of long 10 plus miles.
@@ColinLeung Thanks!!! It's the only way I ride , lol. Very practical of a Pro like use. Best Duals are gear motor as base, and a ,,2000 watt or a bit lower Gearless as Turbo Booster!. So far of 1 year , 2600 miles still going faster than them 3k e bikes of the many features for hype.
If you can assemble fine, but I recommend getting from a dealer already assembled. Many times it doesn't cost any more and may even cost less and you can test ride it and know it works.
Walmart offers at-home assembly for about $49. Some bike shops will also assemble for a similar price (others will not assemble bikes, but they'll service them after you assemble them). From what I've seen, these are well-packed and set up correctly from the factory. You may have brake calipers that need the tension pre-load screws tweaked from side-to-side, but the bike I just put together really had no issues. If you have basic tools and the patience to watch a couple RU-vid videos, anyone who knows which end of a wrench to hold should be able to get one of these assembled without too much trouble. Absolutely no dealer in my area has anything comparable, even no-name chinese container lot e-bikes at $400, which is the current (12/08/21) pricing.
That is correct. It's a Class 1 ebike. Class I eBike use a battery and electric motor to provide assistance at up to 20 MPH when the rider is pedaling (pedal assist). Class I eBikes can go faster than 20 MPH, for example, when going downhill, but the electric motor will stop providing assistance once 20 MPH is reached. EBikes with throttles can turn on the electric motor and propel the bike without the rider pedaling. Class I eBikes cannot have a throttle - they can only provide assistance when the rider is pedaling.
I would base it off of the advertised range, and not the time the manufacture specifies. They must have calculated 1 hour from a range of 20 miles, and max speed of 20mph. Please note that the advertised range is not always the range you will get. It's typically less especially with hills, and battery condition. I would assume 15miles, but you can always pedal (with more difficulty) if the battery drains.
I like mine I changed some components to make it lighter. I took fenders off for front & rear & changed front forks, due to the fact the front forks that came with bike are cheap & seat post I changed to aluminum with Allen style instead of nut & bolt style. Tires I have on mine are fixie type which are 700x 25c w/presta style tubes. Front rim was changed to corsa & trying to see if it's possible to change rear with corsa. I had a fixed gear bike & I love tinkering with my bikes to improve their performance, but bike from wally world isn't bad for $400. I call Wal-Mart wally world in case you've never heard it called that. Handle bars were changed to beach cruiser bars as they are longer & wider.I liked your video very informative & intial detail on your video.
That's awesome. Thanks for sharing. How does the bike compare now after all that you've done? You can always re-spoke the rear hub onto a new rim, but that's a lot of work.
@@ColinLeung It rides smoother but than again I ride it on flat services & very little hills. I've had mine up to 20-25. Yes that's what I had figured on the rear, I'm trying to figure out the geometric dimensions to make it happen, except what I have in mind is a geared bike but with a fixed gear. I'm assuming I can do it but tinkering as we speak to see if it's going to work, I will let you know the results when all done, just time,patience, & work. My friend told me if I succeed in this I should put a patent but not my thing & I'm not about the money, I just prefer ideas & diagnoses as I call it
honestly I am starting to think these cheap ebikes are better for people actually looking for somewhat of a work out. What I dont get are people buying ebikes just to cruise around on....mopeds have been around since 1950s.
No registration cost, no smelly fuel or exhaust so can be brought inside your apartment. You don;t always have to do more than keep the pedals moving to keep the motor running plus for hills there lower gears he kept starting in 6th which required more effort.
so what is the difference between cheap tires and expensive tires? do expensive tires use higher class rubbers? or is it just to feed your ego knowing you paid a lot of money for expensive tires which may not be necessary at all?
It depends. Typically more expensive tires have better rubber quality, better construction and higher threads per inch (TPI). This results in shorter stopping distances, better traction especially in wet conditions, smoother and quieter rides, and longer lasting tires. Sometimes more expensive tires are lighter (for racing), and will not last as long. Some you're just paying for the brand name. If you're riding recreationally then it doesn't really matter which tire you use.
Yep - it's a steel rack, so a few ounces heavier than a high-end aluminum rack, but it's surprisingly decent quality, good welds, a proper tail-light bracket with the correct mounting holes, and seems to be up to handling the rated capacity (18 kg, or nearly 40 lbs) quite well, with very little tail shimmy under load. The whole bike has been a bit of a pleasant surprise - I got more than I expected.
No registration cost, no smelly fuel or exhaust so can be brought inside your apartment. You don;t always have to do more than keep the pedals moving to keep the motor running plus for hills there lower gears he kept starting in 6th which required more effort.
SOME PEOPLE LIKE THE SMELL OF THE 2 STROKE "smelly exhaust" lololololol the 80 cc kit is 160 lol and fuck it i still bring it in side let the gas smell lolololololol thats just me tho im weird like that :)
I just recently purchased a spike myself and being new to e-bikes I went to Pedal and after the second stroke the power came on which I was not expecting and cell tweet the handlebars so I walked it back waited about 2 days to recover and went back out I totally agree with the pedal assist not engaging at high speed you end up peddling your ass off and you might as well pedal slow and let the motor engage and do the work for you that's the reason why I bought the bike I'm legally blind 100% in the left eye am I right eye is like looking through a lava lamp so I don't drive I want to buy an e-bike sent them on my own to get around town and I have a killer hell and I used to work and my commute was a mile and a half and I would always have to walk it partway up the hill but with this bike it has plenty of power to get up the hill of course with peddling and I agree with other comments adders you probably shouldn't use the word cheap maybe low in like you did with a Shimano components after all this bike is inexpensive and quite honestly a good value could have spent 2 or three times as much but this fits my budget and my needs
Just bought one last night for 250. No charger bull didn't know I have charger he originally wanted 700 . No charger how I ride yo. Lol. Putting it together today and going for first ride. Can't wait one step closer to financial freedom. 🙌 have a collection of bmw ebikes Mercedes soon houses but the ebike like I said can't beats all of them cause I'm not paying shit riding it. Good video bro.
It's a bit over $500 now. The smallish battery and low power motor may be why so cheap. I paid about $600 for a 48v 500w kit with a 12 a/hr battery that gets 50-60 mile range. The battery alone sells around $300+. It's the most expensive part of an ebike. I built mine on a 1998 Specialized FSR comp mountain bike for a strong frame, full suspension and a smooth ride.
It seem that the price has dropped. Some people were saying it was $600-700. The last two years the price hit $398 around black friday to Christmas. Thanks for sharing about your ebike experiences!
Thanks I am now trying to convince my mom to buy it so she can bike with me, I am 16 and I can go at 10+ m/hr for a good wile but my mom has knees problem so she goes slower and it's harder for long bike rides. I think for 400$ they will except and I will FINALY have someone to go biking with me. Also great vid 👌
I just got one and talked my wife into riding it up and down the block. She actually giggled when the motor kicked in. It's not easy to get a 65-year-old woman to giggle, but she did. Now she needs to decide if she wants her own while the holiday pricing is in effect.
My friend got hers from someone that didnt like the auto assist from a complete stop. I have an Ecotric Peacedove ebike. I also have a GoTrax Flex e-scooter. I watched several vids before buying or assemblying. I did not see you adjust the center screw up into the front handlebar before putting into the frame. This was in my instructions to make it flush/even. Not to correct you but as you said, you didn't have good instructions. You can look up other bike assembly vids like the Ecotric Peacedove to see what I mean. I am not promoting what I own- just mention for my experience & comparison. Glad your wife likes it ! My friends likes hers except it is a lil too high for her height. She may sell hers & opt for a better fit.
My city has a 33 mile long bike trail along a river parkway plus many side trails. One can use an e-bike, but they must have pedals w/ the motor just for assist. The rangers might be able to cite someone not pedaling and just running on a thumb lever, though unlikely. Still, this bike mandates pedaling to actuate the motor-assist so keeps you perfectly legal. Just bought one for wifey so she can keep up with a biking group (has trouble on hills), so came here to learn the controls (came w/ no manual).
@@leighann5308 We've gone on 3 group bike rides so far, around 20 miles each, with some hills, about 1.5 hr ride time. She can blow by those of us on regular bikes on steep hills. Her Hyper is down only 1 bar at the end, so perhaps the "1 hr" spec means if you go full-out 20 mph the whole hour and perhaps even uphill. I changed the front axle to a quick-release type (had a spare) so we can take the front wheel off quickly. It barely fits lengthwise in our minivan with the rear row out and wheel off. It weighs 55 lb, so a bit of a beast to load. I wouldn't trust it on our bike hitch since so heavy and the arms don't slide thru the frame well. My wife changed to a very wide seat (almost like a tractor). I use it for short quick local trips. You can choose assist of 10, 15, or 20 mph. The later is really flying, so slow down on turns. It is a little strange how the assist kicks in about 1 sec after you start pedaling (feels like a longer time). The multi-gears are great for pedal-power, but doesn't affect the motor-drive. We were going to buy the Jetson Bolt Pro ($349) but it disappeared from the Costco website a day later. A couple has them and they can keep up with the regular bikes, but no gear so they have to crank fast at 15 mph. It is much smaller and folds, so can fit 2 in a sedan trunk and great for taking on a commuter train. For her usage, my wife is happier with the Hyper. We found the Hyper new on FB Marketplace for $399 by a local liquidator. Unless Walmart repeats last year's Black Friday deal, you might pay $630 at most stores today. One fix I made was the rear fender was rattling, as many owners complain. I lowered the rear wheel enough to tighten the loose mounting screws. Be very careful since the drive cable is routed thru the rear axle, past the derailleur.
Bout to buy tomorrow. 300$ new and assembled from a local shop. Seems too low priced to be true considering they are 600 $ elsewhere.. Will see tomorrow. but concerned about the 7.8ah battery. Any help on how far you get out of it.? Needing distance more than speed. Thx
Hello, the Hyper website says 20miles. I haven't personally tested it. I don't recall the pedaling being much more difficult with the motor off, so you can still ride if the battery drains. It may be more difficult going uphill though.
Hello Jacob, I heard the manufacture sells a separate battery for $200-300 if you need another. I can't find the link for it at the moment, so you may need to contact them directly. Thanks
the motor on it is noisy compared too most. for $600 you could have gotten the swagtron eb-7 ebike has 350w 36v will doo 30mph on throttle only and i got it to 40mph using pedal assist and it is very quiet with disc brakes. also the swagtron eb-5 at $500 is better with its 250w watt motor which gets 25mph on throttle but a bit faster in pedal assist mode. that has v-brakes and it much quieter than this. also the b-7 battery will get around 30 mile range with throttle only and close to 50 mile range if your using pedal assist. the eb-5 wil get 12mile range on throttle only and around 2 miles using pedal assist only. but basically for the same price ther are other e-bike out ther better than this one. and both of my swagtron e-bikes currently have over 1500 miles on them and still going strong. i dont think this one will last as long from the looks and sound of it
Thanks for the comment! The Swagtron sounds good, but it is also a folding bike. Not everyone prefers that form factor. I'm in the process of editing a Jetson Bolt Pro review with a 350W rear hub motor that I got from Costco for $300. I should have it up within a week.
Nope. I just got one, and compared to a few other budget motors I've heard, this is actually pretty quiet - about the only time I can even notice it is when I'm going up a decent hill. Maybe the microphone is picking up the sound better? In use, no one has heard me coming, and since I'm passing more people than I used to, I've had to get used to ringing my bell to avoid startling folks.
20 mph speed is plenty for me. People are so predictably unpredictable that they drive cars in your path and some walkers are oblivious both hogging the road, stepping in bike lanes and moving toward bikers at last second.
@@ColinLeung You're the Best. I literally progressed from a child's electric scooter $85 to adult manual scooter $45 to adult electric Yippy $150 to Small ebike peddle free called Hoverway Sprinter $300 , MID-SIZE ebike called Jetson Bolt Pro with peddle assist $285. Then finally the Hyper E ride which is like my Mercedes compared to all the aforementioned. I went through some of these transitions in just a week. A Big John Wayne Grandpa told his wife & extended family I'm the Man of Many Bikes. Coming from a stranger in such a large City that was a little disconcerting. Purchased assembled from merchant in neighboring State. I had to take off front tire to fit in my hatchback.
Someone commented that federal rules limit Class 2 pedal assists to 20mph max. There may be a way of removing this, but I'm not familiar with the process.
Hi! Thank you for this video. Watched it years ago to put my bike together. It's been wonderful but my handle is now loose and doesn't seem to be aligned with front wheel. Handle is straight the wheel goes side ways. Nearly fell over. Help! What should I do to fix it!!
Hello Mary, is the handlebar tilting forward? There is clamp on the stem held by a bolt. Adjust the handlebar so that it's centered with the stem, rotate it to your desired angle, and then tighten it. If the stem is loose then hold the front wheel with your legs so it's straight with the bike frame, turn the handlebar so it's perpendicular to the wheel, and tighten the bolt on top of the stem. If that doesn't work then your headset may be loose.
Hello Bonita, there may be a wiring issue if the battery is seated properly. I'm assuming you press and held the On/Off button? I'd advise contacting Hyper for troubleshooting or warranty, or exchange it at Walmart. Sorry
At the price point you got that bike at, you got a great deal. It looks like a pretty good bike. I am not a fan of caliper brakes but in some parts of the country they are ok. The rubber pads get sand grit in them around hear and it will destroy your rims. Your bike has the better rims for caliper brakes to work good. Some companies cheep out on the rims and they ware badly after a few stops. What does the bike weigh??
Hello, it should already work going uphill. The electric motor turns on when the magnets sense movement during pedaling. The motor may not be able to take really steep hills, but you can change to the appropriate gear to climb hills on the rear derailleur.
The most likely reason this does not have quick release for the front wheel is that the frame geometry would make it hard to use a standard bike lock to secure both the wheel and the frame. I think you would need an extra long shackle or something. Cables don't really work. So it is actually rather thoughtful of them not to include the quick release.
And, in another related thoughtful touch - those two bosses on the underside of the seat stays are for a frame lock. Something you almost never see in the U.S., and something I appreciated, since I happened to have an old Abus lock lying around, which I promptly mounted. I do use a cable, but it's a heavy cable. If they cut the cable, they'll have to carry the bike to a truck, since the frame lock makes it unrideable. The real reason I don't think I'd want a QR hub is that it doesn't add much - with fenders, if you take the wheel off to put the bike in a car, you'll probably bend up the fender, and not reduce the size of the bike that much. I'm not actually that thrilled to have a QR seat post - the post and saddle provided won't break you if they get stolen, but why go through that hassle - I'll probable replace the QR seat post clamp if I upgrade to a suspension post and my spare Brooks B17. Or maybe I'll leave it and just take the saddle post with me... hmmm.
SAFETY TIP: Never, EVER put bike pedals on without BLUE LOCTITE or similar threadlock. Without a torque wrench and the knowledge of exactly how to torque them, you are putting your life at risk, if not at least injury due to the pedals coming loose. Threadlock is CHEAP INSURANCE that the pedals will stay on the bike. Always set the seat post clamp as tight as you can close it. If removing the seat for transportation, or changing height for multiple riders, mark a line where each rider is happy with an indelible pen on the post for easy setting for each rider. The cheapest, BEST upgrade for any bike is a suspension seatpost, many on Amazon around $30. You have to know the exact diameter of your factory seatpost and buy the same size, not close, but the SAME SIZE.
Bike pedals are threaded for retention and don't need to be torqued. In addition, I would NEVER put Blue Loctite on bike pedals. Grease or anti-seize are much better options.
@@nburt2 DEAD WRONG. There are COUNT|LESS comments of people having pedals COME OFF WHILE RIDING. You have NO IDEA WHAT YOU ARE SAYING. Every BOLT on the planet is "threaded for retention", yet TORQUING and LOCTITE are recommended in MANY MANY SITUATIONS. Do NOT listen to this person. You NEED YOUR PEDALS TO STAY ON. Blue Loctite is REMOVEABLE, but with extra EFFORT to ensure they do not come off while riding, but only with a wrench.
Great assembly video Colin, just got mine yesterday and put it together with the help of your video. Everything works fine, no problems. I'm confused about the tire size. It says 700cc 26", I want to get more of a mountain bike style tire. What size and width do I need?
Hello, I'm glad you found the video useful. 700c and 26" are very close in size. A 26" tire will fit a 700c rim, but not the other way around. I'm not close by my bike, but the side of your tire should specify the size (for example 700c x 32). Most tires should work as long as you match the rim diameter. I would pick an equal or larger width tire with a tread pattern that you like. amzn.to/3F7tXb9
Interesting review, Thank You Another Review of the model does not have mud-guards I like the more traditional rims/tyres Try wearing the camera on a lanyard around your neck. Opted for the KBO-ST - still in the box.
So it sounds like the bike is designed to limit your speed to 20 mph . This and the fact that it has no throttle makes it a "class 1" e-bike. Class 2 is also limited to 20 mph but can have a throttle as well as pedal assist. I believe class 3 is pedal assist only but has a higher speed limit. All 3 classes are also limited to a 750 watt motor. These are the 3 classes of e-bike that are legal for road use in the US. This is my understanding from what I have read, if this is this is not factual or has changed, maybe someone out there can let us know.
Great idea. It may be cheaper and easier to buy a bike with disc brakes already since you'd have to change the wheels with ones that have rotors, and the frame does not appear to accept disc brake calipers.
Hmmm - it looks like the 26" e-ride mountain frame will accept a rear disk brake. All of the 250 watt hub motors on the e-ride models have mounting bolts for a rotor. And none of the $400 sale price e-ride bikes have disk brake forks or front hubs. The good news is, about $200 more (currently 12/08/21 $598), will buy the e-ride 29" - which already has disk brakes. So you could pretty easily add a rear disk brake to the 26" mountain - not so easily with the city or cruiser models. Or pay a chunk more for a disk-brake model. Of course, I really don't quite understand the hate for rim brakes - I've raced tandems using caliper brakes. They can be quite effective. The pads on my e-ride City aren't bad, but I'll probably put a set of Kool-Stop pads on and I'll bet I can stop just about as fast as someone with inexpensive disks, wet or dry.
I bought this bike about a week ago. I’m 230lbs and I am surrounded by hills....big hills and this bike does a great job. There is one pretty steep hill I do have to work a bit harder but otherwise it does all the work up hills and I just have to pedal lightly.
250 watts won't haul you up a hill without some pedal input. With pretty minimal effort, though, it does just fine. As long as your "big hill" isn't Pikes Peak.
It really comes down to size and comfort. The E-Ride is larger, more comfortable, and easier to use like a normal bike. The Jetson is easier to transport because of the size, but isn't as comfortable.
@@ColinLeung From what I've seen of products in Walmart you have a much and has a better selection and variety than Asda, ours is mainly food with a few misc items tacked on, also the odd people we see in Walmart vids don't appear in Asda until early hours of the morning, though they mostly resemble the people under the stairs than oddballs in strange outfits lol.
Walmarts are usually general merchandise sans food. Super Walmarts which have become the new norm are much larger and are about one third supermarket or food like Asda. These are like a discount (and lower quality) Costco or Super Target.
Hello Nikho, I believe you will have to contact Hyper directly for a replacement battery. I do not see the option to purchase one from their website, but I have heard of people buying them.
Interesting overview of this city bike. I just feel there is a misconcept (not just from you but from most of people who get interested on e-bikes) regarding the real goal of assistance levels: it is not really about the final speed in flat but boost when climbing: I'm pretty sure if you perform the speed test while climbing the speed x effort difference would be much more noticed. Maybe after 10 months of usage you may realized that (in fact, please share with us the 10 months later impressions). Anyway hope you and your gf are enjoy riding together 😄
I'd love it if this were the case - but the controller provided with my e-ride City seems to give one level of power in all three assist modes - it just cuts out at the respective speeds. In other words, accelerating to 10 mph happens about as quickly in all three assist modes. Nicer controllers I'm sure vary the output power with the assist level selected, and even nicer (and much pricier) controllers with torque controlled sensors detect your actual pedal effort, and adjust accordingly, but that's not the electronics you get at this price.
Here in Greece bikes like that are by law the default you see everywhere cost close to 1k euros.. good to see that else were they are on the price that they should be.
We paid $648 on Walmart.com. We’ve never purchased an e-bike before. The $598 tag was in the box, so I call customer service and haggled with them. Got a $50 refund. But your video really helped us. Thanks.
Hello Sherri, thanks for the question. Can you ensure that the power on the battery is turned on first? Then turn on the module left of the handle bar. Reference 15:06 in the video. Next make sure none of the brake levers are pressed as they may be shutting off the pedal assist function. If that does work then the unit may be defective. I hope this helps.
The max tire pressure is listed on the tire, and I think it's around 43psi on the top of my head. I would use equal tire pressure near the max psi for the least rolling resistance.
I just ordered this bike from Walmart. I would like to know if you kept the bike and continued riding it often. How did it last? Did it hold together well or did the clattering noises get worse?
Hello Mary, my wife still has the bike. She does not ride it very often, but it seems to be holding up well. The chattering noise can be fixed by adjusting and tightening the fender, and doing a tune up. I just haven't had time to work on it. Thanks for the question.
Now that you’ve had this bike for over 1-1/2 years, in your opinion, is it a good buy? (Current price as of 8/11/22 is $598 for the blue one and $698 for the black one)
We still like the bike, however I would wait until Nov/Dec to see if the price drops back down to $398. At $600-$700 you have better options. I did a review on the $599 Totguard ebike, which has a more powerful motor and thumb throttle. It's not a step thru frame though. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BLrr2mAQ1U4.html
@Alberto Abarzua - List is $650. You can often find a rollback to $600. And, during the holidays, last year, as this year, they have a deep Black Friday discount - currently (12/08/21) $398.
Hello, did you turn the battery and controller on? Do you see lights on the display? The pedal assist should work automatically if you select a power assist level. If not, the product may be defective.
The first ride I took was after I assembled it, while the battery was charging. I rode about four miles around our neighborhood. It's about 50 lbs, which you'll notice coming from a stop, or going up hill, but the bike rides perfectly fine without power - something that was important to me, because at some point, you absolutely will be riding without power on any e-bike.
Hello Maureen, I didn't see any holes on the frame for the standard water bottle holder, so you may consider purchasing a handle bar mounted one. amzn.to/3UkxQQF
