I drilled from the top to avoid hitting the thread. before re-installing the sensor. I cleaned it with carburetor cleaner. also I installed the spark plug non foulers first. Then insert the o2 sensor. Works like a charm.
It’s not a cheap fix it will temporary get you to emissions that is it and it will turn the light out after 10 to 12,000 miles. The light will come back on with the same code. I know because I’ve done it you clear the light out three days it’s back again. Eventually you’re gonna have to get it dealt with. It’s just a easy way. Temporary way of getting rid of the problem for now to get you through that is it
@@JjDubbski if your cat is plugged then tricking the sensor isn’t going to change gas mileage. You better at least buy new cats or cut them out and replace them with other pipe if you want better mpg. I’d try a can of seafoam in your tank and it might be able to dissolve your carbon plugged cats.
You can pass with this even the visual inspection, just get the high temp insulation the gold or chrome hose blanket kind, or the tape style they sell then wrap it around the sensor and cover it up they won't look or say nothing. They have it at most auto stores it is the heat protector shit, my vw has some on the engine from the factory back near the turbo manifold for the main intake to recirculating blow off valve (diverter valve) hose
Nice video bro! I just got a new header for my Civic. The original had the Cadillac converter in it! I thought I was gonna have to do this same thing BUT it's been over 200 miles now and still no check engine light!
LOL If you live in a strict emissions regulated state like CA or NY, chances are you have a VISUAL inspection as the first part of the test… Which ultimately means you will FAIL. Depending on whether your year, make, model, and/or trim level has physical engravings and or stamped or welded plates, something with serial numbers or identification; you may be able to get away with replacing the bad cat or cat assembly/part with a generic replacement. This will allow you to run a generic part that’s at least EPA approved, which will work decent for the most part, and will also prevent any cat CEL’s from being triggered.
I can say it works !! I did it on my 2009 prius n i had put over 5000 miles since then n the light never came back on the car hasnt give me any problm at all ..
I've been running my Honda like this for years. Sometimes it'll come back on but rarely. Easily cleared and I have my CAT gutted and welded back. Downstream O2 only.
@lilsavagegod It was called a spark plug non fouler. 42006 Dorman is what I looked up. But with those, you have to drill one out to 1/2 inch drill bit. Then screw them together. But a lot of places sell those O2 extenders already to go.
I had the po430 code on my 03 camry wich is the same thing only on bank 2, all I did was pour a gallon of lacquer thinner into half a thank gas, drove the thing for two hours about 180 miles, though to be fair the check engine light went off 5 minutes after I pour the thinner, I just wanted to burn the contaminated gas so as to not damage anything, it's been 4 days and some 80 miles and no light or code store in the ecm
You can have no codes, but still fail on readiness. DId you have to pass readiness also? If you had any incompletes, how many did you have, and how many are you allowed to have where you live?
I have a problem turning on the check engine light. WV golf 4 1.6 16V 77KW 16804 / P0420 / 001056 - Catalytic converter system; Bank 1: Efficiency below the threshold. How to solve the problem?
I don’t think this will change the decreased fuel efficiency i have on my 2019 F150… went from 17.5 to 15.5 with the P0420 code, i changed my cat converter by throwing this code a few month ago .. later on I got misfire reports and wire damage through rodents.. was fixed but now I have again P0420 showing.. unsure if I should change the cat converter again or just check the sensor ?
People should read all the possible causes of a trouble code and check for those before effecting repairs or throwing parts at a problem. There are sites that outline them and explain in plain terms.
@@freddconr492 you can give vehicle info and description to a search engine and give the codes you read. Then read about the concerns people are having, the sites come up to select from. It's been like that for a very long time since internet has been available. You can also use online database through libraries and go to libraries to use databases they pay subscription to. You can find diagnostic websites that discuss your vehicle with you as goodwill for their knowledge and some people just want to be of help. I used one to help an older jeep because the guy kept insisting my initial call was wrong. I used the exchange of information to prove by majority opinion that his central processor had been switched with an older one that was not for fuel injection. Hence, it cranked but wouldn't start. The first day, on the side of the road, I showed him during inspection, along with the other parts that should have been working but failed tests. The online guys verified my gut reactions and suggested the whole sensor group was too far out of date, and testing would take too much when the time they had already been in use was too long. I found him a known good brain and he refused to buy it. I found him another one but it was anti theft equipped. It needed a DRB III scan to unlock. It was $50. He picked that one. I used the library resources to show him his recalls that hadn't been performed. He wouldn't read them. I finally had to insist, since it started now, but antitheft shut it down, that he get the right one for $110. Instead, he paid $325 to tow the vehicle to the jeep dealer. Those online guys verified everything I found was part of multiple causes. And those causes were viable. Just telling him was like talking to a stump. It was a huge help when my search words led me to that free diagnostic help website. Other techs share info it they know, or they say stupid shtuff that let's you know you're doing better than they would. The host watches and gives you steps to take or sends you back to system prechecks people tend to overlook when rushing to load the parts canon. He sometimes has no response if it's up to you to provide more info or get a service manual diagnostic from a library because of your circumstances. They share the kind of luck they have had with parts of certain brands over another. There's no cure all, and what you're working on may come up with your needs versus another make where you may not find anything diagnostic. The threads for that make may come under a club website of people who share make and model. Take it with a grain of salt and prove yours with testing, before spending your money. You can also find websites like "just answer". There are also sites you pay a fair price for professionals to answer you. You can read their other advice, before buying, they used for other customers.
This works with some tuning,,(first if your Converters are stopped up it will work for just a few miles and there is nothing you can do to stop making your check engine light come back on except repair them). This is only works if you have removed or cleaned out your convertors and you still might need to pack them with Steel Wool
Hello how did you get the OBD2 SENSOR APP. ON YOUR PHONE PLEASE? ALSO WOULDN'T IT BE EASIER JUST TO BUY A NEW O2 SENSOR ON EBAY. THERE NOT EXPENSIVE. I GOT 14 MILES ON THE CAR THE OTHER NIGHT ON A HIGHWAY. My Toyota Camry 2.2 has 201k on it and has been a wonderful car. Not pretty dents and dings. But starts up a runs everytime. I put some ROCKAUTO FCS STRUTS ON UT FRONT AND BACK. BIG MISTAKE. TAKES THE BUMPS HARD ON POOR ROADS. THANKS DAVID
Dose it turn of the check engine light of a car with California emission pls ….note that i will replace the catalitic converter as soon as i got money 😭
After watching a ton of these videos all doing the same thing I'm left with questions. If the computer is only looking for a certain voltage parameter why couldn't someone just cut the two wires and insert a resistor to hold that constant voltage? I've seen those videos as well with the resistor/capacitor but no one has completely cut out the O2 sensor all together. Not asking the author necessarily but if anyone else has a thought I'd love to read it.
Cleared my p0420. Nearly 4 months and p0420 come back on ??. Just bought a universal lamda sensor instead much easier and cheap too. Only £13 on on ebay for mine.
This O² sensor measures the O² leaving the catalytic converter. If the converter is working properly, it should return a low reading. As I understand it, the engine computer does not make any adjustments based on this reading. The sensor is only there to check the performance of the catalytic converter and detect when it is due for replacement. The original hack was to disconnect this sensor and connect a simple circuit that simulated a low O² reading to the engine computer, all the time. The engine computer only checked for a low O² reading once the exhaust system warmed up. Once the hack was well known, the engine computer software was rewritten to detect this method of tampering. Basically, when the engine is first started, the O² sensor should detect a normal fresh air level of O² and the engine computer is programmed to report a fault if it doesn't. With this fix, the O² sensor does start out reading a high level of O². The fix creates a small chamber out of the main exhaust gas flow. It appears that the O² entering the chamber does combine with unburned hydrocarbons, so the O² sensor reports a low reading to the engine computer, as it would with a working catalytic converter and the sensor placed in the main exhaust flow.
Don’t touch the upstream sensors or you’ll pay with bad mpg and performance. Only do this to the downstream 02 which is after all the cats which is for emissions testing only and doesn’t affect fuel trim
Hey heads up that I learned today that the O2 sensor in my Hyundai Accent is too fat to fit in the anti-fouler, even after drilling it out. I won’t get that afternoon back.
I second that. Actually, if you watch carefully at the very beginning of the video, you will notice the trace that this dude used to have a sticker to cover his check-engine-light. That was an unprofessional-Mickey-mouse act. LOL That being said, I was initially skeptical but after reading the poster's explanation to several other skeptical comments here, I incline to give it a shot now.
Did this it worked for a while but now I got po13a code slow response of the sensor so I changed the sensor and 2 weeks later the same code came on again did anyone find a fix for this?
Did you still have the code even though the check engine light went away? Because after replacing my 02 sensors I'm still getting the P0420 code but check engine is off. Is it because I have to drive my car until it stores the code?
What happens when you do this? If i understand it correctly, the catalytic converter removes oxygen and pass through the final O2 sensor. I saw a video which shows graph of O2 (1) > Catalytic Converter > O2 (2). The graph of O2 (1) is a sine wave with 0.9V to 0.1V The graph of O2 (2) is a flat line. This is how it should work. Will we get the same results?
Basically if the internal stream has an oxygen deficiency when compared to ambient atmosphere air, then the sensor's signal (sin) deviation is less. This is reflected on a o-scope as a flat or close to flat wave form. If there's consistent constant switching, this reflects that the catalyst cannot reduce oxides or the sensor cannot accurately determine levels. End result is the ECU deeming the catalyst system in-efficient. So with the spacer the sensor is less exposed to the exhaust stream its monitoring, less media to react to, less the output signal deviates. This is my understanding...
Struggle with same code. Iam wondering, of what does it do to the mpg? Will try anyway, I tried of clearing this code every 2 days. Thanks for the tip.
Peace be upon you. I had a check mark in the car. [Kia Optima 2007 engine 2.0]. And I checked with a computer and the error came out... bank 1 sensor 2... meaning the second candle after the eco box and I changed it with a new candle and cleaned the eco box and the same thing. The error is repeated and I installed the same thing shown to you and the same error appears??? What is the solution
I did it on my mercedes e class on my both oxygen sensor. Im still getting code for bank 2 sensor. I used non fouler on both sensors. Should i put non fouler on only bank 2 sensor to get rid of it or should both sensors should have non foulers? Or only one should have.
I'm not expert, but if you read some more comments here posted by this RU-vidr, you'll find that he suggested to only do this to your car's downstream o2 sensor only.
ʝɛsʑíƙɑɑ./ƖíƒɛstyƖɛɛɦ ƈʀuʑ is it still blowing smoke? If it is, it sounds like your car has a misfire. And you’re probably better off not waisting your money.
Torque, and make sure it's Pro version...Scan it with the motor running, find the error code, stop the engine, and put the contact without starting the motor, scan again and delete the error. Start the engine now, and the check engine is gone.
It depends. I'm guessing 2 of them are primary o2 sensors that you don't want to touch because they're for determining the amount of fuel the engine needs to run. The other 3 should be for emissions purposes and depending on the check engine code you're getting, you can determine which o2 sensor is acting up. OBD2 CEL codes are pretty clear in which sensor is the problem one, it should read bank 2 sensor 2 or bank 1 sensor 2 or something like that when you google the code.
@@CtrlAltDefeatTV Code p0420 bank 1 witch one do I change there's one before and after each Cadillac converter and there two of them left and right then there's one right after the Cadillac converters and there's one in the center down stream?
