Not completely sure of your exact project but from what I know, smaller port increases velocity(in certain instances, ports have actually been made smaller than factory for this reason). So since the motor is boosted, you'd want the intake side as big ass possible to get as much air in the motor(velocity isn't as big of a deal, because of the boost), but on the exhaust side, you want the air to escape as fast as possible. again, I'm not exactly sure about your specific situation but its either something like this, or he just forgot to do the exhaust side lol
I guess im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost my password. I love any assistance you can give me.
Intake side needs to be able to get more air into the engine since this is a turbo setup. You want to keep the exhaust more narrow so the turbo spools quicker because of the faster exhaust velocity. It is a science.
Your going to need that stage 5 xtd 4 puck is only a bit over $100 bucks but its worth the disc and pressure plate. Ive ran them before with great success And they have a stronger pressure plate design with the new ones😀😁
I'd go ACT much better brand and well worth the price I have their 6puck sprung racing clutch and streetlight flywheel on my 02 wrx and it bites so hard all 4 spin and squeal tires lol.
Bought a Ek Civic for the first time I've always wanted one, km was Hella high, like 300000km high, got the engine rebuilt professionally and now for the power
Shouldve rebuild it yourself with forged pistons rods etc for probably half the price. Im into my motor under 1200 including eagle rods weisco pistons acl bearings etc and machine work/hot tanking and paint
I just bought a 1991 civic lx with a d16y8 and a spare d16y8 with a garret m33 turbo. This is my first honda, I've always run Lexus/toyota and subaru. I'm surprised at how cheap these cars are to work on and to build. From spending over 6k to turbo a lexus to a little over 1,500 to turbo a civic, its crazy. Only down side is, I'm coming from rwd and awd so this new fwd platform is a bit foriegn to me.
You dont wanna polish intake ports . The roughness helps atomization of the fuel but you do wanna polish the exhaust side as you want the air getting out as fast as possible ...
@@Hohmies86 Full disclosure - all I'm really basing my assertion on is the fact that I have a D16y8 head with $2k invested in it, and I don't see a single square inch of polished aluminum anywhere on it. This head was full-race ported by Portflow in the early 2000's and was originally installed on a car that set a bunch of world records. The entire engine was actually optimized by JG Engine Dynamics, including additional work on the intake ports to match them with the custom JGE intake manifold. When the original owner got too old to horse around with Hondas, he passed the head on to me, at which point I replaced the entire valvetrain and had custom valve work and combustion chamber work done by Joe Alaniz. I did the final assembly with the help of Earl Laskey right before he passed. This head was basically worked on by all the biggest names in Honda racing, and I never once heard anymore mention anything about polishing the ports. They're plenty smooth, but nowhere near "polished." Looks more like they were finished with a small wirewheel.
I have 3 blocks 3 heads, 5 cranks, and I still can't get a running d16. I took parts to a "great machine shop" & promptly waited about NONE MONTHS for some halfass work. Just blew a head gasket at like 9lbs yesterday making a measly 280hp. I'm not giving up though.
@@Autosauce Hey can I ask you sth? To get those hp numbers ( 400 is ok for me - 500 is too big) on the road what did you do to the drivetrain? I mean, did you add lsd? Did you upgrade the internals of the transmission or left it stock? What exactly did you do? Pls
the reason for leaving the exhaust side unpolished , is that smaller runner , means greater velocity, with more velocity , less heat since it has less time to wick ( larger holes, slower flow ) . also the carbon build up acts as a polish in a way , filling those pores up . same reason on the intake side you do port. larger intake , means more air . more air . cooler charge. and more room for HP gains . engines are just air pumps . good example for the exhaust explanation , is think of exhaust manifold runners , the smaller the runner. the faster the airflow. which also helps with turbo spool rate. smaller runner. earlier into boost compared to the same engine with a larger runner manifold. the larger intake charge also helps push the exhaust air out as the other cylinders are on their compression stroke . like exhaust scavenging , but in the engine . scavenging also explains why your exhaust manifolds are made with a 4-1 . and equal length piping . all about airflow , and airflow potential , which is limited by intake size. . . comes full circle .
@@twistymcslide2 the velocity created by narrow runners is what would otherwise be created by the manifold & volute with less restrictive exhaust ports. More cfm is the main goal here. Also carbon buildup does not aid in flow at all.......
@@elonmust7470 the carbon buildup is inevitable on the exhaust side. if youd measure volume with a plain , newly cast manifold , and then 10k miles later. the later , flows better because of less turbulence, the carbon fills the voids, acting similarly to a polish, why when you put your finger into an exhaust port and get carbon on your fingers, and then rub them together, you feel like you have a talk on there , which moves smoother than just your fingers will . . i dont mean build up of carbon which slow flow off the valves , and are obstructions . i mean the inevitable byproduct of combustion . engines in good health wont build enough carbon to be obstructive. . and runner math is all about cylinder volume . not intake volume. the engine , is an air pump . but is limited by how much air it can draw in . the faster and cooler the charge air, the better it performs. pre turbo , you want a faster airflow velocity, post turbo you want as free flowing as possible so it doesn't become a bottleneck .
Cold air volume is larger than hot exhaust fumes this is why intake valves are bigger than exhaust valves. because exhaust fumes are thinner. Porting the intake side. You are able to increase not just the volumetric admission but also the velocity. Harder valve springs increase compression and response but also keep compressed air to get inside the cylinder after valve closed on turbo application.
@Dave Micolichek I see the level of ignorance... So are you trying to tell me that all cylinders are on the same intake stroke at the same time because that would be the only way they will fight for intake flow. 😂😂😂😂 If it is a firing order then it is a order for every stroke on each cylinder. They do not do anything at the same time.. 😂😂😂😂 So a piston is not going to fight vs vacuum because is the only one producing vacuum at that time.. 😂😂😂😂 And yes hard spring valves helps valves to stay closed on turbo/supercharged applications because the pressure can push valves open... 😂😂😂😂 I'm certified ASE technician so you are not schooling me 😂😂😂😂 I have more than 20 years of experience building engines and racing Rally and baja..
@Dave Micolichek I know you are not my homie. Is just a term we use here on northern California. And nop I do not do 1/4 of mile any more that was when I was on my 15's Now I'm into time attack. And yes I know your car would beat my bucket but that doesn't make you smarter. 😂😂😂😂
@Dave Micolichek I was talking about spring valves and you went all the way to try to race me and talking bout cash... I don't care about your car or cars cuzz or your money or if you are rich or not I did recognize that your straight line racer would beat my car. But you still a dumb ass. I did recognize that my car is not set up for drag racing. Is not excuses take it as it is you like it or not I just don't give a fuck.
pretty sure the heads lift at high HP and you need ARP head studs and a better head gasket, the cylinder head rockers, valves especially stiffer springs are for higher RPM, and don't really corollate with power directly,
Having the intake side ported and the exhaust has a reasoning if it not mistaken….. allowing the intake to be ported increases the velocity Becuase your sucking in more air and, cause you need more air….. but you also need to let it escape quick so keeping the exhaust side stock does just that…….
Great video, love watching it come together. Quick question, i have a D15b2 and I want to get 250-300hp. Is it worth building? If so, what would you recommend? Thanks.
Get a d16y8 head, and make your d15b2 a MiniMe build, they can rev to almost 8K and make about 135 hp before u mess with intake and exhaust or extensive tuning. Also a Skunk2 stage 2 cam shaft, AEM fuel rail, and some cpu tuning will make your 1.5l economical engine will now put out a good deal more power, don’t bother with boost or supercharger, just build it all engine, and as long as u have a manual gear box that performer could keep kicking for a real long time to come, only get a B series or H series if it is available and u can afford the parts, J series are heavy and K series you have to turn it all around and swap out the drivetrain… d series is ur easiest bet, cheapest and can be pushed farther then you want it to go.
Not sure if answer is in the comments but the D16 engines are bad breathers so porting is a good idea regardless of turbo setup or not. Not sure why but any dyno will show you they breathe really bad 👍
Holy shit, seems like you get it so cheap over in the USA. Here in NZ, speedfactory vitara pistons alone are $290 and speedfactory rods are $300 😅😅 everything’s expensive here 😄
@@Autosauce all I know about porting is it's good to have polished flow before the injectors but after it's better to have a rough surface as it creates turbulence so the fuel doesn't condensate against the sides like it would on a polished surface, keep up the good work buddy!
@@hegeliandetective1034 Is knocking because your injection is to small for that amount of air and is keep wide open. You have to change it at bigger one otherwise on your piston will be a hole.
@@laszloszell8753 Get this. My timing belt was loose. Changed the timing belt, now it's tight. Which solved the slop in the cam. Was still making a spark-knock sound, and was occasionally misfiring. So I uninstalled my intake-manifold, found a huge crack in the intake-manifold-gasket, I replaced the gasket, now it doesn't make a spark knock. So you were right, there was too much air coming in, causing spark-knock. The air was coming in from the intake-gasket-crack, into that cylinder. Needed a few full heat cycles for the intake-gasket to fully seal, hindsight I should've used just a slight amount of hondabond on the mating surfaces, but oh well, it's good now. If it gives me any more issues, I'll redo the work. So far so good. So thank you for the comment, in case I had not figured it out yet.
@@georgemuller3998 do you an extra running car? go check facebook market place.i live in midwest and hatchbacks and integras here are unicorns it took me more than a year to collect parts when i see parts on facebook with in 1-2 hours drive and cost less than $100 i buy em and ask em what they can give me for free? the guy who gave me turbo, the while z6 motor and arp studs got into an accident and he want to have a big part on my build so he gave me everything for almost free
From what I know it's not necessary to Port exhaust? Iread that somewhere!!! Something about backpressure and scavenger effect! Badass head! I have one on a d15b8!!!!
usually exhaust ports arent polished becouse if its not polished it has more acreage (becouse its little bumby) so it stays cooler, polished intake ports are good becouse the air fuel mixture can move better, with polished exhaust port the cylinder heads exhaust side would get way hotter and broke your head, sorry for bad england :/
Got a d16a6 on my crx should I work with that or look for a different d series engine ?? Want to stay d series with the possibility of boost.. daily driver
You don't polish the intake because you want a rough surface. The rough surface will cause turbulence which is better for air fuel mixture entering the cylinder. The turbulence will allow cooling and better mixture of the air and fuel which will result in better combustion, that equals more power. Make sense yet?
Hey bro just subbed yesterday so i got a d15b7 engine that i have laying around it has a blown head gasket but i honestly really want to build it into an engine that can take alot of power with a turbo money is not really an issue as i am going to take my time with it but what setup would you recommend for me to build it from the ground up?
Hey wait, maybe he thinking 🤔 of the water hose finger effect, you put your finger over where the water(exhaust) come out(exhaust ports) to make it a smaller and it gains more velocity. But 😐
What is it with people milling the head and then setting it down right on your freshly cut surface. There should be tape or something to protect it. Not just on a garbage bag. Bad build practice
I'm on Hold with the Number in the Description, Delta... Anyone know where I can buy a D16Z6 Vtech Engine? My D15B7 is going out... I'm in San Francisco Bay area if that helps! Thanks!!
Michael Randrianarivelo vtec turbo only makes sense if you want to drive efficiently on the street. 500hp is not going to be anywhere close to efficient so vtec is nonsense. Should lock it open and send it
You can get more power for the buck with a b series or k series. If you're dailying below 300hp stick to d series. If you're dailying above 300, do b or k series
It really depends on what you prefer, how you’re going to drive it, where you’re driving it, etc. are you looking to make the most the cheapest and most reliable way trying to run straight lines on the track or highway? B-K series. You’re just out having fun, not looking to make 6-800hp. Who gives a single fuck, not really trying to impress anyone but yourself, d series. But don’t get me wrong bud, there are some d series that’ll fucking rip bro. But talk about $$$$$$
@@jesusvalentin8088 depends on the year and model. But if you’re talking about a civic My favorite is the 96-2000 D16Y8 Vtec . Or tye D16z6 Vtec. Both are equivalent to each other, you can run the same cam shaft. But I’ve found the toughestand most reliable is the Y8. A lot of people witll tell you mini me that bitch, non Vtec Y7 bottom/w/y8-z6 vtec head. But I’ve def found out that the y7 rods somehow can’t take the same beating as the y8. The man you can move out to prelude F20 A. You can make these fucking single jingles fast and hella reliable, but that costs a lot money. I mean you can still smoke super cars in your $5000 built POS. The D Series is hella cheap, reliable, easy to work on, and it’s still very fun to drive. But yeah, d15Z6 or the D16y8, and if you want use their non erect counterparts to give it a little more. (Compression matters). I’ll have a introduction video up. Introducing myself and showing you guys my shitbox, and running it on the curvy ass backroads to show you how it runs and what all I’ve done to it. Stock inards, with a .50 A/R 12 eBay special used for many years ass turbo. Which there’s nothing wrong with ilthe eBay turbos, sometimes you luck up and get a really good one real cheap. I mean shit, I’m still using mine from 3 years ago, and it’s on it 3-4 engine. If you have problem with your turbo lookup turbolab of America and get their products. Or send it in to get rebuilt. They are truly top tier turbo parts and the guys there are really cool Ian and his twin Austin are great people. And they do an amazing job and provide excellent customer service and fix and return your parts in a timely fashion. They’re Inexpensive but i would rather have their turbo guts than anything from another brand. They’ve created their own design which works so much better than all competitors . Sorry i drifted away from the main convo, but in my (future) videos I’ll show you guys some things I’ve had to figure out myself and make due with the shit ive had and happened upon. Most of the shit i have that came in cars I’ve bought over the years, and me being the trash ass hoarder, I’ve kept things until i find out what to do with it. And i still have more than necessary. Hope any of that helps. And i haven’t talked to anyone in a long time so excuse all the babbling.
Oh shit i totally didn’t answer your question 2005? D17A2. I mean it’s not too much of a difference but i also think those engines and transmissions are trash. They didn’t even up the HP from 6th gen-7th gen. It stayed at 127. I’d say fuck it and grab a d16y8 and turbo the bitch. You’ll get exactly what you’re looking for in a Sohc. Yeah it’s a 1.6l 16v vtec. But like i said compression matters. You get higher compression with the 1.6 and If you wanna keep it N/A then Forged flat top pistons, bigger cam profile, port&polish throttle body, intake, intake ports on head, exhaust ports on head, shorter gear ratios in the trans bigger injectors, adj. fuel pressure reg, an AFP gauge oil and fuel gauges so you can see exactly what’s going on, then a little tune and you got yourself an fucking beast ass N/A SOHC
Why not go out and buy Maserati gran turismo block and make any Honda heads work on that or scrap Honda idea and build Maserati big bore short stroke motor
@@Autosauce I have a D16z6 in a 95 Del Sol si. I run a production company here in Daytona Beach. I used to drive an 89 crx. We should have you out and go to the beach where NASCAR began. Let me know.
