I watched the video showing how to replace these fuel lines on my 2008 HHR. I was on the fence whether I should replace the entire fuel lines or splice in a 'field repair' and only fix the rusted out areas. I'm so glad I replaced both fuel lines because all I see are other people redoing their job a year later. These lines are perfect. The ends are exactly what you need and the length is perfect. The lines get 5 stars for adding everything needed. I'm hopeful this stays 5 stars over time with the lines holding up over the long haul. The Job- If you watched the video with the 2 guys (1 mechanic and his high pitched voice buddy), then you'll be in for some surprises. My HHR has always been garage kept, only has 50,000 miles, and looks brand new under the car. I expected a couple hard parts, but there was a couple areas the guys in the video either skipped over or simply omitted due to not wanting to look foolish. Engine Compartment Unhooking the lines from the engine compartment was simple. I would pull the fuse (15 amp) then get in the car to try to start. This will release the pressure on the lines. Then you can try to do what the guy shows and push the little pressure release button. I didn't remove the air filter or top of the motor housing. I had enough room next to the engine to do the job without it. Under the car The clips holding the fuel lines and brake lines are not fun at all. I found that pretty much tearing them apart was the way to get it done. I tried the flathead in the hole the guys show, but it doesn't do the job well. Maybe if I would've had a hoist then this would've worked better, however I had the car up on jack stands and a jack. I could see there is a little clip you have to manipulate over to get the entire bracket to open. I got 1 of the many to do that. The rest I pried open to the right of the fuel lines. My entire goal was to not mess with the brake lines since I don't want to replace those. Once pried open, they came apart easily. The stupid reason this entire job has to be done is the plastic cover right where you have the leak. This is where the water gets trapped, and begins to corrode the line. My line here was almost broken already, which surprised me. I wasn't leaking that much gas. This plastic is a bear to get off as well because it is held on by the same type of clips. Interesting how the video doesn't show getting this off. The one area the guys are totally spot on is where the rusty fuel line needs to be cut to get it out of the plastic quick connect near the gas tank. I couldn't get this apart. I had read where you could squeeze the black quick connect in a certain way, but that wasn't working due to the line being too long and didn't have a lot of play. I used a pipe cutter and that took a lot of time off the job. The other area the video didn't show was releasing the quick connect on the line going to the canister. The fitting was a smaller size than the 3/8 one used at the top of the engine. Install This was pretty straight-forward. The only area that I would add to the video was the rusty bolts for the nuts to go on for the brackets. The nuts need a lot of force to go on initially. At first I thought the nuts were the wrong size, but they needed some force. Do NOT try to reinstall the plastic that was the problem at first. You will create the same issue down the road. Overall Not a bad install. Took me about 4 hours. Would've taken less if I would've had a pipe cutter out at first and not tried to remove the line near the tank using other means. Nice job for a father and son to work on together. Disclaimer- I am an elementary teacher, not a mechanic. I'm sure a mechanic might have different ways/tools for the job. Just showing even us regular folk can get the job done.
So glad you guys still offer this kit, it's just what I needed! For everyone who wants to do this at home, get yourself jack stands, they're like $60, so you'll have as much room as possible under the car to work on it. The quote I got from Firestone Autocare was ~$800 in labor and ~$250 in parts and this kit and everything else we bought to fix it was ~$200 and took about 4 hours. Well worth your time and money!
Just ordered your kit and installed on a 06 Cobalt. Soooo much easier than cutting and patching lines and cheaper than buying OEM. Didn’t have a lift just a jack and stands. Took about 3-4 hrs because bolt to fuel filter snapped off. Overall very good product and satisfied.
Just did this on my 2011 HHR LT. Ordered the kit was mentioned in the video and it arrived within 3 days. The job was pretty easy to complete. Most of the studs that remained from the old clamps were so rusted out so I had to use a self-tapping sheet metal screw and drill a few holes for new bolts to install the clamps supplied. All in all, great video, and thanks for the help.
Great video! Just finished fixing my 2009 HHR and other than the rusty bolts that hold the clips, which I found a workaround (used metal flat clip instead of bolt), it was pretty straight forward. I like this better than the nylon kits - stainless steel just seems to be the better way to go. The only thing I did different was I didn't have to take off the air intake, which is a good thing because the intake hose tends to fall apart when you start messing with it. I also took out all of the old lines - not very hard using a tube cutter and you get some slack.
Excellent video tutorial for the installation! the only thing id recommend BEFORE YOU BEGIN THIS REPAIR is to have some self-tapping screws ready, nuts for the torx studs already installed, or anchors for the supplied line brackets. mine only had one nut for the firewall and replacement bolts for each secure threaded factory torx stud and I didn't have a reverse torxs bit for the stud. so I improvised and tapped holes to fit the included bolts using the supplied brackets. My line had rusted out inside the heat shield/jacket and when I installed new struts and HHR ss springs it moved them around enough to start leaking. I got lucky and it was only the return until I received this kit. if you're steady without a lift and jack it high enough with the rear on ramps on a creeper it will take less than two hours including the old line removal. These guys made it a breeze! The kit was a fitment for a 2011 2.2L Ecotec HHR LS
Hmm we normally supply some extra nuts. I will speak with my supplier. If you would like you can send me a message and I can send you some if you would like
I have a fuel leak on my 2008 Chevy hhr right under the driver side. The mechanic told me it's rusted out and it will be $300 to patch the lines and $750 for full replacement of the two fuel lines. I feel he's taking advantage of me.
@@moderndaymufflerbrakes288 Thank you for replying. I'm in Cincinnati, OH. I wouldn't be able to make it to you even if I wanted to because the car is underivable due to the severity of the fuel leak. I'm kind of stuck with paying as I can't afford so many tow fees back and forth. I just had a suspicion that he was charging me twice as much for both options.
It would be pretty sweet if you guys made the lines that connect to the sending unit so we can get rid of that plastic nylon lines that always crack on the cobalts and HHRs. I would buy a set for my HHR SS and my LS panel.
Just finishing replacing the line with this kit. I'm disable with multiple nerves pinched. The hard part was the removal of the old lines the rest was fast and easy. I got a question, did you recommend the use of a heat shield for the lines? Cause it will create the same problem, i believe. Thanks.
Glad to hear the install went smooth for you. I have not used heat shield on any I have installed because I felt the stainless steel was enough protection. But it could not hurt to use it.
There is a little round small canister right behind the purge valve in my Chevy cobalt 2005 . So do I go ahead take that off? Because the is where I have to connect the other house , the one behind the purge valve to the vapor canister near the tank
Awesome installation instructions. I have an HHR LS and the problem started when I turned the ignition on and gas started gushing out the driver's side. can you help me understand what happened, and how to fix the problem, without going to a mechanic and spending ridiculous amounts of money to get the car fixed? Could you please inform me of what part(s) and tools I need to fix this issue? I thank you professional recommendations in advance.
You would need a good set of side cutters, fuel line removal kit, Jack, jack stands, socket set, and maybe a screwdriver. And probably a afternoon time wise. If you need additional help feel free to call us at 330-334-3800 For the parts you will need moderndaymuffler.com/products/2005-10-chevrolet-cobalt-complete-quick-fix-fuel-line-kit-braided-qff0015ss
@@moderndaymufflerbrakes288 Thank you so much you have been accommodating, and thanks for the resourceful information about the parts I need, again thank you 🙂👍
Ordered this kit and installed over the weekend. Had to drill holes in the bottom of the car to hold the new clips as the old post/bolts where so rusted and corroded that there was no way to pull them out with a torx wrench or reuse them. Cutting the old fuel line did make it much easier to get out from the tough areas in the back, not shown in video. I was curious if it was necessary to cover the new lines with new heat shield near the exhaust. This is not mentioned in the video. Further, there was a plastic protective housing that spanned about a foot, sitting underneath the rear drivers side door that will not fit back on with the new thicker lines. This was not mentioned in the video. Having said that, I got the job done best I could and the car is running and not leaking fuel. Product was delivered in a timely fashion.
Using a heat shield is always recommended even though we did not on our car. As far as the old bolts heat is your best friend. The plastic by the rear seat is not needed for these lines. Glad to hear over all you were satisfied even though your car gave you a rough way to go. We always say every job is one rusty bolt away from taking an extra 2 hours to complete.
Hey guys, up here in Manitoba Canada I’ve got an 09 Pontiac G5 (same exact body/chassis as the Cobalt) with an external fuel filter mounted beside the evap canister. Does the replacement feed line in this video connect easily to the output side of the external fuel filter without an additional part? Or is there an additional part needed? Please let me know, I’m ready to pull the trigger on ordering this from ya. Can’t even change the existing fuel filter without breaking the old line it’s that rusted. Other commenters mentioned this issue but I don’t see a mention one way or other. Manitoba roads :(
No other parts are needed you can see pics of a filter install on our website moderndaymuffler.com/products/2005-10-chevrolet-cobalt-complete-quick-fix-fuel-line-kit-braided-qff0015ss?_pos=1&_psq=qff0015ss&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Hope this helps
Hi, Purchased and installed for a chevy cobalt. Issue with the clamp on the firewall, did you insert it with the holder of the clamp oriented to the side left or right? It would seem for me it does not matter which orientation it is installed, both fitments it is a tight fit, does not seem to want to position nicely. Also, how do you recommend to get to the nut and screw it down? very tight spot. Thank you, kind regards.
I am sorry I do not fully understand what you are asking. Please give our tech team a call at 330-334-3800 You can also email pics to support@moderndaymuffler.com
I want/need to order these today. The picture of the product on your website makes the lines look really short. My vehicle is the 2009 cobalt 2.2, will these lines work for me? Please and thank you!
@@moderndaymufflerbrakes288 Just received and very disappointed. I have removed the lines and routed the new ones only to realize that the return line connection to the canister at the back of the vehicle is too small. Barely too small. I have left a message and will wait for some help. I left picture on your website, hope they help illustrate my problem.
Yes we have it stock but do to the size and weight overnight is not economical. We can ship priority Mail please call us at 330-334-3800 to arrange shipping
@@moderndaymufflerbrakes288 Not on mine. Mine as a external filter. The pressure line runs from the motor to the fuel filter on mine and then two lines go out of fuel filter into tank fuel pump.
The line in the video doesn’t match the picture on your website link of the gas line. Is it different? What is the exact line you used in the video? Thanks for the info!
After rewatching the video and taking a look at my car, these lines should work. The main question I had was the evap solenoid connection under the hood. The SS has a check valve where the solenoid is located on this video, then a small line to the solenoid that is mounted on the intake manifold. The connection to the check valve looks to be identical to the one in this video at the 4:43 mark in the video. I am going to order this kit and see if it will indeed work on a SS model.
@@rhyno811 yes this kit did indeed work, however the turn to the fuel rail was too tight for my liking. I just ordered the ZZP fuel filter kit that mounts under the hood and reroutes the lines so there isn’t any stress on the lines. Plus you are adding a filter to a fuel system that doesn’t have one
