Chevy Impala Dash Clicking?? Blend Door Actuator Replacement 

Thanks, yours is the only one, showing how to remove the inner glove box for better access.

Awesome helpful video. About the link to the part…Do you happen to know if this would also work on a 2014 Impala? It says it’s for 2004-2013 models. Thank you in advance

Did you have to "Re-Calibrate" by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and turning the ignition key on for 5 minutes with the engine OFF ??

Just did it but still blowing cold air when I need hot oh boy. Thanks for the guidance

Unit above gas pedal. I ended up cutting a wire w finger nail clippers. Too much of a pia. I replaced the glove box unit 3 years ago. Had shop cut wire to the left and above of passengers left knee.

Great great video great video

Looks like the parts of the dash have to be removed to replace the right side passenger actuator...also the airbag, yes?

Hello, Excuse me, what is the type of spark plug or spark plug burner suitable for Liberty 2007

Do you have a video on how to replace the one under the steering wheel? I suspect that is the ones I am having issues with as the drivers side only blows hot air, but the passengers side still blows cold air (when AC is on). Thank you.

I changed it 3 times already. I am done going for the 4th.

Would both actuators be the same part in the glove box?

Good video good information. You should do a video on splitting wood lol

Set controls to ac recirculating Dash and foot. Before cutting wire...with car running. And after clacking ceased.

How did you install without clocking the new one to match the original. You cant turn them by hand to match the shaft

When you do this -- you should reach in and manually flip the door back and forth to make sure it isn't stuck or have trash in there. Because the gears usually break from the fact that the door got stuck somehow.. I've taken apart a 'drive by wire' throttle body on a 2010 Dodge Nitro -- and it looks basically the same, (plus a little fancier board with a sensor). But otherwise, it's the same kind of setup: Electric motor with a worm gear, and plastic gears after that. (the reason they use a worm gear is because that allows the motor to move the door, but the door can't move the motor. Those worm gears only drive in one direction/ in other words, if air was blowing on that door and trying to close it, it will not drive that worm gear- it CAN'T; The worm can drive the gear, but that plastic gear can't drive the worm. That's just a side effect of that setup. which is probably why the teeth are torn in that one spot. From the years of the air blowing on the door and moving it back and forth slightly, chewing up that gear on the worm gear. In this case, I actually think that second gear should be metal too-- since it's engaging with that strange worm gear, rather than a regular matching tooth gear-- like the rest of the drive train on this thing. Interesting) On my throttle body, the "butterfly" flap had gotten a little dirty or carbon gunked-- but I think it also got just enough moisture on it to freeze- and that's why the gears broke. (it was cold and snowing at the time)............ The thing is: even if they did put metal gears, it would probably just break the motor anyway -- or it would bust the plastic case that is holding the gears in place; there's always a weaker link somewhere. Again, make sure the thing that you are actuating isn't stuck or binding-- or it will just break again.

The glove box has 3 rods on the hinges that slide right out and the whole glove box moves out of the way. No need to remove the torx screws

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Good video but I couldn't see anything. Lol

Nothing about drivers side impossible