I do understand greasing the shaft to build a grease wall to help the seal do its job better. I have always packed the backside of the seal with petroleum jelly. When the shaft reaches a certain temp the jelly liquefies and lubricates the seal.
Replacing actuator on 1500. First time ding it. I was told to manually put transfer case in due to actuator being pre postioned in 2. Truck was stuck in 4high. I think now it's stuck in between 2 and 4. Any advise???
Had an escape where if it ran for a bit and you turned it off to like go in a store, it would stall when it starts back up. Going to try this and if that doesn't work, ive also read that the fuel pump mega fuse can be the issue too
I've got a 07 Dodge ram slt 1500 4.7 liter dead in the driveway cranks but NO start I hope there the il give it a try if your right I'll send you $20.00 bucks
For anyone that finds this comment, my 2015 suburban (Tahoe, Yukon etc) lift gate would not open, specifically it would not unlock. I could only open from the inside with a screw driver. If you you hit the liftgate handle inside button (switch) the tail lights blinked and you heard a click. The same thing happened when you used the key fob. Now I knew my struts needed replacing as the liftgate would sometimes stop lifting, but there’s tons of videos on that. So I replaced those. I looked at fuses (the ones in the rear control the liftgate), replaced the switch , and unfortunately used an Amazon replacement for the latch assembly which some others have recommended. Finally as a last ditch I went to a dealership and bought the OEM latch assembly (part 13542450). Works like a charm now. Moral of this story, the generic parts don’t work, at least for me. I saw one other person who had this same experience in a comment for some video or forum. Get the OEM part. Hope that helps someone.
I got my fuel pump control module replaced and reprogrammed, and my check engine light is still on for the control module. Would it be a wiring issue?? My code that pops up is P069E
It looks as though it was actually designed to flip it the other way, where the threaded rod is in the center of the axle shaft, that way its pushing against the center of the axle shaft, which pulls the bearing out evenly, also you just damaged your ABS wheel speed sensor because you didn't remove it out of the hub, and third thing, is you NEVER use an impact gun on hardened threaded pullers, you need to use a socket and breaker bar or large ratchet, but never an impact gun, because you will damage the threads on your puller, even worse if you borrowed a puller from a friend then damage it. 🤔🧐😯
Hi thanks so much for this excellent and helpful video sir! I noticed oil residue around the mass air sensor and intake on my sister in laws 300 so I now know how to change it out - very similar location to the 3.5 in my older 300. Thanks and cheers!
